Yoshiyuki Ogata
{{Short description|Japanese rock climber (born 1998)}}
{{distinguish|Yoshiko Ogata}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = Climbing World Championships 2018 Boulder Semi Ogata (BT0A9004).jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Ogata in 2018
| name = Yoshiyuki Ogata
| nationality = Japanese
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|1998|2|4}}
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation = Professional sport climber and boulderer
| height = 171 cm
| weight = 61 kg
| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|
| knownfor = Winner of multiple World Cup medals
| highestgrade =
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|V13}}
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|8b}}
| highestonsight =
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| website =
| updated =
|medaltemplates =
{{MedalCount
| World Cup | 3 | 3 | 4
| World Games | 1 | 0 | 1
}}
{{Medal|Competition|World Cup (Season)}}
{{Medal|Third|2019|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Winner|2021|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Winner|2022|Bouldering}}
{{MedalCompetition | World Cup }}
{{Medal|Gold | Salt Lake 2022 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | Innsbruck 2021 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | Vail 2019 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Silver | Morioka 2022 | Combined }}
{{Medal|Silver | Salt Lake 2022 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Silver | Meiringen 2022 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Silver | Meiringen 2021 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Brixen 2023 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Innsbruck 2022 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Seoul 2022 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Moscow 2019 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Vail 2017 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Competition|Asian Championships}}
{{Medal|Gold|2016|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Silver|2017|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2017|Lead}}
{{Medal|Silver|2019|Combined}}
{{Medal|Silver|2022|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Silver|2022|Lead}}
{{Medal|Competition|Asian Cup (Season)}}
{{Medal|Winner|2017|Lead}}
{{Medal|Competition|World Games}}
{{Medal|Gold |2017 Wrocław|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Bronze |2022 Birmingham|Bouldering}}
|show-medals = yes
}}
Yoshiyuki Ogata (緒方 良行 Ogata Yoshiyuki, born February 4, 1998) is a Japanese professional competition climber and boulderer. He has won multiple medals in competition bouldering at IFSC Climbing World Cup events,{{cite web |title=YOSHIYUKI OGATA |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2309 |publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing |access-date=September 24, 2021}} including gold medals at Vail in 2019{{cite news |title=History is Made in Vail: A Dark Horse and a Season Sweep |url=https://www.gymclimber.com/history-is-made-in-vail-a-dark-horse-and-a-season-sweep/ |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=Rock & Ice |date=June 11, 2019}} and at Innsbruck in 2021.{{cite news |last1=Browne |first1=Ken |title=Janja Garnbret and Team Japan storm to victory at Innsbruck Sport Climbing World Cup |url=https://olympics.com/en/news/janja-garnbret-storms-to-dazzling-double-at-innsbruck-sport-climbing-world-cup |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=olympics.com |date=June 26, 2021}} Ogata won the overall IFSC Men's Bouldering title for the 2021 and 2022 seasons{{cite web |title=IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDER MEN |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar?task=ranking-complete&cup=66&category=3&year=2021 |publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing |access-date=September 23, 2021}}{{cite web |title=IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022: BOULDER MEN |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar?task=ranking-complete&cup=66&category=3&year=2022 |publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing |access-date=July 16, 2022}} and finished third overall in 2019.
Early life and youth competitions
Born in Kurume, Fukuoka prefecture,{{cite web |title=緒方 良行 |url=https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/yoshiyuki-ogata/ |publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association |access-date=September 27, 2021 |language=Japanese}} Ogata began bouldering at age 10 after he saw the sport on television.{{cite news |title=Friday Feat: One-Pinky Pull-Up |url=https://www.gymclimber.com/one-pinky-pull-up/ |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=GymClimber |date=May 7, 2021}} At age 17, he won the lead competition at the 2015 Japan Youth National Championships,{{cite web |title=クライミング・日本ユース選手権2015 |url=https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/archive/detail/Climbing-Youth-JAPAN-Cup-2015/ |publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association |access-date=September 27, 2021 |language=Japanese}} as well as the bouldering competitions at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships{{cite news |last1=Murdoch |first1=Shane |title=Arco 2015, Day Four: Bouldering Results and Canadians Ready for Lead Comp |url=https://gripped.com/news/arco-2015-day-four-bouldering-results-and-canadians-ready-for-lead-comp/ |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=Gripped |date=August 31, 2015}} and the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships{{cite web |title=IFSC クライミング・アジアユース選手権 プトラジャヤ 2015 |url=https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/archive/detail/IFSC-Climbing-Asian-Youth-Championship-2015/ |publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association |access-date=September 27, 2021 |language=Japanese}} in the Male Youth A (age 15–17) category. He won another bouldering gold medal as well as a combined silver medal at the World Youth Championships in 2017 in the Male Junior (age 17 to 19) category.{{cite news |title=IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 Report |url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/ifsc-youth-world-championships-2017-report/ |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=Gripped |date=August 7, 2018}}
Competition climbing
Ogata began competing in senior competitions at age 16, entering the Chongqing and Laval World Cups in 2014. At age 18, he won the gold medal in men's bouldering event at the 2016 IFSC Climbing Asian Championships, and collected a silver in bouldering and bronze in lead the following year. Ogata won gold at the men's bouldering event at the 2017 World Games, where he qualified as the 2016 Asian champion.{{cite news |title=The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017 | url = https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/the-best-climbing-photos-of-the-wroclaw-world-games-2017.html |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=Planet Mountain |date=July 26, 2017}} He made his first World Cup podium finish with a bronze medal at the Vail World Cup in 2017,.{{cite news |title=Indoor Weekly: Watch Vail World Cup 2017 Highlights |url=https://gripped.com/events/indoor-weekly-watch-vail-world-cup-2017-highlights/ |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=Gripped |date=June 6, 2018}} Ogata won his first World Cup event in bouldering at Vail in 2019 and won his second at Innsbruck in 2021. At the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Ogata advanced to the men's final in lead, finishing 7th overall.{{cite news |last1=Houston |first1=Michael |title=Schubert and Seo win lead golds on final day of IFSC Climbing World Championships |url=https://www.insidethegames.biz/articles/1113287/ifsc-world-championships-lead |access-date=September 27, 2021 |work=inside the games |date=September 21, 2021}} In 2022, Ogata made the finals in all six IFSC World Cup bouldering events, taking home one gold, two silver, and two bronze medals, and winning the overall title.
Rankings
= IFSC Climbing World Cup =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2014 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2015 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2016 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2017 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2018 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2019 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2020 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2021 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2022 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2023 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2024 |
| align="left" | Lead
| - | - | - | 20 | 27 | - | - | - | 9 | 7 | 16 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| 83 | 40 | 18 | 8 | 8 | 3 | - | style="background: Gold" | 1 | style="background: Gold" | 1 | 6 | 26 |
Climbing World Championships
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2014 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2015 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2016 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2017 |
| align="left" | Lead
| 13 | 7 | - | style="background: Gold" | 1 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| - | style="background: Gold" | 1 | 19 | style="background: Gold" | 1 |
| align="left" | Speed
| - | - | - | - |
| align="left" | Combined
| - | - | - | style="background: silver" | 2 |
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2018 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2019 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2021 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2023 |
| align="left" | Lead
| 31 | - | 7 | 27 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| 15 | 14 | 8 | 7 |
| align="left" | Speed
| 110 | - | - | - |
| align="left" | Combined
| 29 | - | - | 17 |
World Cup podiums
= Bouldering<ref name="IFSC profile" /> =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;" | ||||
| width = "55" | Season
! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold ! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver ! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze ! width = "55" | Total | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2022 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 5 |
| 2023
| | |1 |1 | ||||
| Total | 3 | 3 | 5 | 11 |
= Combined =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;" | ||||
| width = "55" | Season
! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold ! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver ! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze ! width = "55" | Total | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2022 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
See also
References
{{reflist}}
External links
{{Climber links |ifsc_2020=2309 |ukc= yoshiyuki-ogata-12501 |instagram=ogata.yoshiyuki |twitter=yoshiyuki_ogata }}
- [https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/yoshiyuki-ogata/ JMSCA profile] {{In lang|Ja}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ogata, Yoshiyuki}}
Category:Japanese rock climbers
Category:Sportspeople from Fukuoka Prefecture
Category:21st-century Japanese sportsmen
Category:World Games bronze medalists for Japan
Category:World Games medalists in sport climbing
Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
Category:Japanese competition climbers
Category:Medalists at the 2017 World Games
Category:Medalists at the 2022 World Games
{{Climbing-bio-stub}}
{{Japan-sport-bio-stub}}