Yuji Hirayama
{{Short description|Japanese rock climber}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = Yuji Hirayama - TEDxTokyo 2009.jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Yuji Hirayama at TEDxTokyo 2009
| name = Yuji Hirayama
| nationality = Japanese
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1969|02|23}}
| birth_place = Tokyo
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation =
| height = 173 cm
| weight = 65 kg
| typeofclimber = Sport climbing
| highestgrade =
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9a+}}
| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8c}}
| knownfor = First man to onsight {{Climbing grade|8c}}
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| retired = 2007
| website = {{URL|ameblo.jp/stonerider/}}
| updated = 13 May 2013
| medaltemplates =
{{MedalCompetition|IFSC World Championships}}
{{MedalSilver|1991 Frankfurt|Lead}}
{{MedalSilver|1999 Birmingham|Lead}}
{{MedalBronze|1993 Innsbruck|Lead}}
{{MedalCompetition|IFSC Climbing World Cup}}
{{Medal|Bronze|1991|Lead}}
{{Medal|Bronze|1993|Lead}}
{{Medal|Winner|1998|Lead}}
{{Medal|Winner|2000|Lead}}
{{MedalCompetition|Rock Master}}
{{Medal|Winner|1991|Lead}}
| show-medals = yes
}}
Yuji Hirayama (平山ユージ; born February 23, 1969) is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 (becoming the first Asian climber to win the title){{Cite web|url=http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_M&cup=98_WC|title=Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 1998 - MEN lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|access-date=23 May 2013}} and in 2000.{{Cite web|url=http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_M&cup=00_WC|title=Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 2000 - MEN lead|publisher=ifsc-climbing.org|access-date=23 May 2013}} He is notable for being the first-ever climber to onsight an {{Climbing grade|8c}} route, and for his various speed records on El Capitan.
Climbing career
On November 25, 1999, Hirayama onsighted Mortal Kombat (Castillon, FRA), which gained some historical relevance because it was initially believed to be the world's first onsight of an {{Climbing grade|8c}}; however, a few days later, Hirayama himself downgraded it to 8b+,{{cite web|url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/yuji-hirayama-first-to-onsight-8c.html|publisher=planetmountain.com|title=Yuji Hirayama first to onsight 8c!}} Note: The title of this article is misleading, as the article contains an interview in which Hirayama downgraded the route to 8b+ which has become the consensus grading.
On September 29, 2002, Hirayama and Hans Florine climbed The Nose in 2:48:55, setting a new speed record.{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=34037&l=2|title=Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=2 October 2002|access-date=23 May 2013}}
In 2003, he made the first ascent of a proposed {{Climbing grade|9a+}} called Flat Mountain.{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/flat-mountain-2/|title=Flat Mountain|publisher=climbing.com|author=Jeff Achey|date=15 June 2012|access-date=23 May 2013}}
On October 6, 2004, he onsighted the {{Climbing grade|8c}} graded White Zombie in Baltzola Cave, ESP. This was the world's first-ever onsight of an 8c in history.{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hirayama-worlds-first-8c-on-sight.html|publisher=planetmountain.com|title=Yuji Hirayama world's first 8c on-sight!}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7jeDPrt7wU |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211212/b7jeDPrt7wU| archive-date=2021-12-12 |url-status=live|title=Yuji Hirayama White Zombie Onsight|publisher=Youtube}}{{cbignore}}). On 2005 Aug 10, Tomas Mrazek had the 2nd 8c onsight, Pata Negra at Rodellar in eastern Spain.{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=34900|title=Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=13 September 2005|access-date=23 May 2013}}
In 2007, his El Capitan Nose record was broken by the German brothers Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber. The Hubers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2 hours, 45 minutes and 45 seconds.{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/newswire-yosemite-nose-huber-speedrecord|title=Huber brothers break speed record on the Nose, twice|publisher=alpinist.com|author=Luke Bauer|date=9 October 2007|access-date=23 May 2013}} On July 2, 2008, Hirayama and Florine retook the record in a time of 2:43:33.{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/the-nose-goes-quicker/|title=The Nose goes quicker|publisher=climbing.com|author=Eric Perlman|date=4 September 2008|access-date=23 May 2013}} Then on October 12, 2008, they lowered the record to 2:37:05.{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/yuji-and-hans-speed-up-the-nose-an-el-capitan-dispatch-from-yosemite-ca/|title=Yuji and Hans Speed Up The Nose – An El Capitan Dispatch from Yosemite, CA|publisher=climbing.com|author=Larry Arthur|date=30 May 2012|access-date=23 May 2013}}
In 2008, he made the third ascent of boulder problem, Uma {{boulder grade|V14}} at Shiobara, and the first ascent of Ginga {{boulder grade|V14}} at Kanoto.{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/yuji-hirayama-still-has-the-power/|title=Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power|date=24 April 2008|publisher=climbing.com|access-date=23 May 2013}} In 2009, he made the 6th ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish, British Columbia.
In 2012, he freed a multi-pitch route called Pogulian Do Koduduo in the Mount Kinabalu National Park in Borneo with one pitch at 9a.{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39707|title = Borneo, new extreme rock climbs by Yuji Hirayama, Daniel Woods and James Pearson on Mount Kinabalu}}
Business career
In 2010, Hirayama opened "Climb Park Base Camp", a climbing gym in Saitama prefecture, Japan.{{cite web |url=http://www.b-camp.jp/ |title=Home |website=b-camp.jp}}
See also
References
{{reflist}}
External links
- {{IFSC profile|id=2247|old_id=973|archive=20200711175511}}
- {{Instagram|yuji_hirayama_stonerider}}
- [https://web.archive.org/web/20130829120131/http://www.bealplanet.com/beal-video/white_zombie/whitezombie1.htm Onsight of White Zombie]
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Hirayama, Yuji}}
Category:Japanese rock climbers
Category:Sportspeople from Tokyo
Category:IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists