beef olives

{{Infobox food

| alternate_name = Veal olives; veal birds

|image = Beef olives 1732.png

|caption = 1732 recipe

| | country = England

| creator =

| course =

| type = Meat casserole

| served =

| main_ingredient = Beef or veal strips wrapped around stuffing

}}

Beef olives are an English meat dish consisting of slices of beef rolled and tied round a stuffing and braised in stock. Veal is sometimes used instead of beef, but the latter has been more common since the 18th century. Similar dishes are familiar in cuisines of other countries including France, Italy, Germany, Poland and the Czech Republic.

History and etymology

The word "olives" in the name of the dish is a corruption of "aloes" or "allowes", from the Old French alou, meaning lark.Ayto, p. 26 It was held that the small stuffed beef (or veal) rolls resembled little birds, particularly those whose heads had been cut off in being prepared for the table. In The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson observes that although the standard French term for similar beef rolls is paupiettes they have an alternative name – {{lang|fr|alouettes sans tête}} ("larks without heads"). Likewise, an alternative English name is "veal birds".Davidson, p. 69

In English usage the term beef (or veal) olives dates back to at least the 16th century. John Florio in his A Worlde of Wordes (1598) refers to "That meate which we call oliues of veale". By the 18th century, beef was more commonly used than veal. Elizabeth Raffald in The Experienced English Housekeeper (1769) gives a recipe for the beef version, as in the 19th century does Mrs Beeton (1861).

Davidson comments that similar rolled and stuffed beef (or veal) dishes are found in the cookery of Germany ({{lang|de|Rouladen}}), Poland ({{lang|pl|zrazy}}), and the Czech Republic ({{lang|cs|ptachky}}); in Italy, there are several names for versions of the dish, including {{lang|it|involtini}}, {{lang|it|braciola}}Carluccio, p. 106 and {{lang|it|pasteli}}.{{Cite OED|beef olive}}

Ingredients

Elizabeth David remarks of the French paupiettes that every cook has a different recipe for them.David, p. 351 Recipes vary likewise for the English equivalent:

class="wikitable plainrowheaders" style="text-align: left; margin-right: 0;"

! scope="col" |Cook/writer

! scope="col" |Beef

! scope="col" |Stuffing

! scope="col" |Liquid

! scope="col" |Ref

Mrs Beeton

| Rump, wrapped in bacon

| Minced herbs

| Beef and veal stock

| Beeton, p. 56

Mary Berry

| Silverside or topside

| Onions, bacon, mushrooms

| Beef stock and tomato purée

| Berry, pp. 34–35

Robert Carrier

| Topside

| Onions, mushrooms, breadcrumbs

| Beef stock

| Carrier, p. 127

Ceserani and Kinton

| Lean beef

| Onions, breadcrumbs

| Brown stock

| Ceserani and Kinton, pp. 171–172

Keith Floyd

| Stewing beef

| Minced pork

| Red wine

| Floyd, p. 103

Prue Leith

| Lean beef

| Onions, sausage meat

| Beef stock and tomato purée

| Leith, p. 157

Richard Olney

| Rump or round

| Chopped pork, chopped hard-boiled eggs

| unspecified

| Olney, p. 94

Elizabeth Raffald

| Rump

| Breadcrumbs, bone marrow, lemon

| "a Pint of Gravy"

| Raffald, pp. 104–105

Gary Rhodes

| Topside or rump

| Minced chicken, onions, mushrooms

| Red wine and veal stock

| Rhodes, p. 124

Katie Stewart

| Rump

| Mushrooms, breadcrumbs

| Stock (unspecified)

| Stewart, p. 68

References

{{Reflist}}

Sources

  • {{cite book | last = Ayto | first = John | year = 2012 | title = The Diner's Dictionary: Word Origins of Food and Drink | location = Oxford | publisher = Oxford University Press | isbn = 978-0199640249}}
  • {{cite book | last = Beeton | first = Isabella | title = Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management | date = 2006 | orig-date = 1861 | location = London | publisher = Bounty | url = https://archive.org/details/isbn_9780753714003/page/56/mode/2up | isbn = 978-0-75-371400-3 }}
  • {{cite book | last = Berry | first = Mary | title = Cooking From Your Freezer | date = 1985 | location = Cambridge | publisher = Martin | url = https://archive.org/details/cookingfromyourf0000berr/page/34/mode/2up | isbn = 978-0-85-941305-3}}
  • {{cite book | last = Carluccio | first = Antonio | title = Antonio Carluccio's Simple Dishes | date = 2013 | location = London | publisher = Quadrille | url = https://archive.org/details/antoniocarluccio0000carl_a6q8/page/106/mode/2up | isbn = 978-1-84-949299-7 }}
  • {{cite book | last = Carrier | first = Robert | title = Great Dishes of the World | date = 1963 | location = London | publisher = Thomas Nelson | url = https://archive.org/details/greatdishesoftyh0000robe/page/126/mode/2up | oclc = 58605494 }}
  • {{cite book | last = Ceserani | first = Victor | author2 = Ronald Kinton | title = Practical Cookery | date = 1972 | location = London | publisher = Edward Arnold | isbn = 978-0-71-311713-4}}
  • {{cite book | last =David | first = Elizabeth | title = French Provincial Cooking| date = 2008|orig-date=1960 | location = London| publisher = Folio Society | oclc=809349711}}
  • {{cite book | last = Davidson | first = Alan | title = The Oxford Companion to Food | year = 1999 | location = Oxford | publisher = Oxford University Press | isbn = 978-0-19-211579-9}}
  • {{cite book | last = Floyd| first = Keith| title =The Best of Floyd | date =1995 | location =London | publisher =Michael Joseph | isbn =978-0-71-814097-7 }}
  • {{cite book | last = Leith | first = Prue | title = Leith's Cookery Course | date = 1980 | location = London | publisher = Fontana | url = https://archive.org/details/leithscookerycou0000leit_v6g3/page/156/mode/2up | isbn = 978-0-00-635272-3 }}
  • {{cite book | last = Olney | first = Richard | title = Beef and Veal | date = 1981 | location = London | publisher = Time Life | url = https://archive.org/details/beefvealthegoodc00time/page/94/mode/2up | isbn =

978-0-80-942852-6}}

  • {{cite book | last = Raffald | first = Elizabeth | title = The Experienced English House-keeper | date = 1769 | location = Manchester | publisher = Harrop | url = https://archive.org/details/experiencedengl01raffgoog/page/n119/mode/2up | oclc = 504316342}}
  • {{cite book | last = Rhodes | first = Gary | title = Rhodes Around Britain | date = 1994 | location = London | publisher = BBC Books | url = https://archive.org/details/rhodesaroundbrit0000rhod_v8i3/page/124/mode/2up | isbn = 978-0-56-336440-5 }}
  • {{cite book | last = Stewart | first = Katie | title = The Times Cookery Book | date = 1972 | location = London | publisher = Collins | url = https://archive.org/details/timescookerybook00stew/page/68/mode/2up | isbn = 978-0-00-435162-9 }}

{{Beef}}

{{English cuisine}}

Category:English beef dishes