bobbin lace

File:Fiore D'Ogni Virtu Per le Nobili Et Honeste Matrone, page 34 (recto) MET DP362393.jpg

File:BLW Bobbin lace - detail.jpg

A will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family mentions lace created with twelve bobbins.{{cite book|last1=Verhaegen|first1=Pierre|title=La Dentelle Belge|date=1912|publisher=L. Lebègue|location=Brussel|page=10}} There are two books that represent the early known pattern descriptions for bobbin lace, Le Pompe{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/12663277|title=Le Pompe, 1559 : patterns for Venetian bobbin lace|date=1983|publisher=R. Bean|others=Levey, Santina M., Payne, Patricia C.|isbn=0-903585-16-2|location=Carlton, Bedford|oclc=12663277}} from Venice and Nüw Modelbuch{{Cite book|last=R.|first=M.|url=https://www.e-rara.ch/doi/10.3931/e-rara-5463|title=Nüw Modelbuoch|publisher=Christoph Froschauer d. Ä.|year=1561|location=Zürich|doi=10.3931/e-rara-5463}} from Zürich. Other popular lace pattern books were produced by Isabella Parasole, which included patterns for reticella, needle lace and bobbin lace designs. Other pattern books of this period include Cesare Vecellio{{Cite book |last1=Vecellio |first1=Cesare |title=Pattern book of renaissance lace: a reprint of the 1617 edition of the "Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne" |last2=Appelbaum |first2=Stanley |last3=Waldrep |first3=Mary Carolyn |last4=Vecellio |first4=Cesare |date=1988 |publisher=Dover |isbn=978-0-486-25828-7 |location=New York}} and Bartolomeo Danieli.{{Cite web |title=Bartolomeo Danieli {{!}} Vari disegni di merletti |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/348344 |access-date=2023-12-02 |website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art |language=en}}

Bobbin lace evolved from passementerie or braid-making in 16th-century Italy. Genoa was famous for its braids, hence it is not surprising to find bobbin lace developed in the city. It traveled along with the Spanish troops through Europe.{{cite book|last1=Reigate|first1=Emily|title=An Illustrated Guide to Lace|date=1986|publisher=Antique Collers' Club Ltd.|isbn=1-85149-003-5|page=44|edition= 1988}} Coarse passements of gold and silver-wrapped threads or colored silks gradually became finer, and later bleached linen yarn was used to make both braids and edgings.{{cite book|title=Fabuleuses dentelles|author=Janine Montupet, Ghislaine Schoeller|year=1988|pages=16–18|publisher=Robert Laffont|isbn=9782221057544}}

The making of bobbin lace was easier to learn than the elaborate cutwork of the 16th century, and the tools and materials for making linen bobbin lace were inexpensive. There was a ready market for bobbin lace of all qualities, and women throughout Europe soon took up the craft which earned a better income than spinning, sewing, weaving or other home-based textile arts. Bobbin lace-making was established in charity schools, almshouses, and convents.

In the 17th century, the textile centers of Flanders and Normandy eclipsed Italy as the premiere sources for fine bobbin lace, but until the Industrial Revolution and the coming of mechanization hand-lacemaking continued to be practiced throughout Europe, suffering only in those periods of simplicity when lace itself fell out of fashion.

Some skilled lace makers work to re-create older lace patterns based on the period portraiture and extant lace samples.{{Cite book|last=Dye, Gilian|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/870644836|title=Surface decoration in silk and metallic thread|year=2013|isbn=978-0-9553223-5-8|location=Glasgow|oclc=870644836}} On paintings that have sufficient detail, entire pieces can be reconstructed by lacemakers who understand the early structural techniques and details.{{Cite web |date=2018-07-24 |title=Lace for Lady Anne Clifford by Gilian Dye |url=https://www.britishportraits.org.uk/blog/lace-for-lady-anne-clifford/ |access-date=2020-10-05 |website=Understanding British Portraits |language=en-GB}}{{Cite web|title='Portraits and Lace' by Gil Dye|url=https://www.britishportraits.org.uk/research-papers/portraits-and-lace-by-gil-dye/|access-date=2020-10-05|website=Understanding British Portraits|language=en-GB}}

==Materials==

Bobbin lace may be made with coarse or fine threads. Traditionally it was made with linen, silk, wool, or, later, cotton threads, or with precious metals. Bess of Hardwick bought red silk, gold, and silver thread for making "bone lace" in 1549, the earliest English reference to this kind of work.Santina M. Levey, 'References to Dress in the Earliest Account Book of Bess of Hardwick', Costume, 34:1 (2000), 21. Today bobbin lace is made with a variety of natural and synthetic fibers and with wire and other filaments.{{cite book|date=1985|first=Brigita|last=Fuhrmann|title=Bobbin Lace: An Illustrated Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Techniques|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jIkfAwAAQBAJ|page=38|publisher=Dover Publications|isbn=9780486249025 }} Even bobbin lace made from human hair, {{lang|fr|point tresse}}, was once popular as a personal memento.{{cite web|title=Hair Lace|website=Textile Research Center|url=https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/lace-making/hair-lace}}

Elements of bobbin lace may include toile or toilé (clothwork), réseau (the net-like ground of continuous lace), fillings of part laces, tapes, gimp, picots, tallies, ribs and rolls. Not all styles of bobbin lace include all these elements.

File:Sampler of Honiton fillings.jpg|The close up of the back shows the fillings are sewn onto the ribs and tied off

File:Russian filling.jpg|A single plait can choose a clever path to construct a filling with sewings but without tying off

Image:Bobbin lace gimp.jpg|mesh (or ground) with a solitary gimp

File:Picots.png|Picots. Top: double threaded, bottom single threaded.

File:Honiton sample of raised work.jpg|Raised work, a rib on top of the left section, a roll on top of the right section

File:Tallies.jpg|Rectangular tallies

File:Mundillo_de_Moca.jpg|Another common shape of tallies arranged as flower petals

File:Neuchatel lace.jpg|Mesh ground motif; toilé with a gimp, corner of half stitch, petals of cloth stitch

File:Rosaline Perlée.jpg|part lace motifs, before being assembled

File:Part lace motif.jpg|completed part lace

File:Bobbin lace tape.jpg|A Tape (or braid) with footside on the left and a headside on the right

File:Bobbin lace headside and footside.png|top headside bottom footside

File:Manchet van gemengde kant in polychrome zijde, BK-BR-J-304-A-1.jpg|Polychrome lace by Michelangelo Jesurum combines styles and colored threads for effect.

File:A lace guide for makers and collectors; with a bibliography and five-language nomenclature, profusely illus. with halftone plates and key designs (1920) (14779463312).jpg|A lace guide for makers and collectors; Gertrude Whiting's sampler (1920)

File:Maria Theresia im Spitzenbesetzten Kleid.jpg, which depicts her as the "first lady of Europe" in a precious dress of Brabant bobbin lace.{{Cite web|url=https://www.schoenbrunn.at/en/about-schoenbrunn/the-palace/tour-of-the-palace/hall-of-ceremonies|title=Hall of Ceremonies}} (by Martin van Meytens, c. 1752)]]

Many styles of lace were made in the heyday of lacemaking (approximately the 16th–18th centuries) before machine-made lace became available.

{{Tree list}}

• Classification of traditional styles by technique
• Continuous bobbin lace also known as: straight lace or fil continu.
• Mesh grounded lace has motifs connected with ground
• {{Tree list/final branch}} too many types to repeat here
• {{Tree list/final branch}} Guipure lace has motifs connected with plaits{{cite book|last1=Earnshaw|first1=Pat|title=The Identification of Lace|date=1985|publisher=Cantecleer|location=De Bilt|isbn=9021302179}}{{rp|glossary}}
• Bedfordshire lace (Beds) – this has flowing lines and picots (to foil the lace machines)
• Cluny lace – has radiating long, thin leaves, called wheatears
• Maltese lace – often has the 8 pointed Maltese cross as part of the pattern
• Yak lace – made of wool
• Cantu Lace—also called Venetian Pointe lace
• {{Tree list/final branch}} Genoese lace – usually a geometric design
• Part lace
• Honiton lace – very fine English lace with many flowers
• Rosaline Perlée – a mixed lace, but mainly bobbin lace
• Bruges lace – assembled from leaves scrolls and open flowers
• {{Tree list/final branch}} Brussels lace – Point d'Angleterre, Point plat appliqué, Point Duchesse
• {{Tree list/final branch}} Bobbin tape lace sometimes categorized as part lace (not to be confused with tape lace which uses prefabricated tapes)
• Russian lace
• Idrija lace
• Schneeberg lace – since about 1910
• Milanese lace
• Hinojosa lace
• {{Tree list/final branch}} Peasant lace

{{Tree list/end}}

File:Bobbin lace.JPG

The advent of machine-made lace at first pushed lace-makers into more complicated designs beyond the capabilities of early machines, then simpler designs so they could compete on price, and finally pushed them out of business almost entirely.

The resurgence of lace-making is a recent phenomenon and is mostly done as a hobby. Lacemaking groups still meet in regions as varied as Devonshire, England and Orange County, California.{{cite web|title=Lacemaking: Associations and Guilds |publisher=Fibre Arts Online Web |url=http://www.fibreartsonline.com/fac/lace/index.htm |access-date=8 August 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120203143142/http://www.fibreartsonline.com/fac/lace/index.htm |archive-date=February 3, 2012 }} In the European towns where lace was once a major industry or popular artisanry, especially in Belgium, England, Spain (Camariñas and Almagro), Portugal (Azores, Caminha, Lagos, Nisa, Olhão, Peniche, Póvoa de Varzim, Sesimbra, Setúbal, Silves, Viana do Castelo, Vila do Conde and Viseu (Farminhão),{{Cite web |last=unify.pt |title=Tradição de bilros com nova "casa" em Farminhão |url=https://www.jornaldocentro.pt/noticias/detalhe/49286 |access-date=2023-09-04 |website=www.jornaldocentro.pt}} being known as Renda de Bilros),{{Cite web |date=2018-07-23 |title=The Meticulous Handcrafted Technique of Bobbin Lace |url=https://www.covetfoundation.com/events/the-meticulous-technique-of-bobbin-lace/ |access-date=2023-09-04 |website=Events |language=en-GB}}{{Cite web |title=Rendas de Bilros |url=https://www.rendasdebilros.com/noticias.php?a=6&id=14 |access-date=2023-09-04 |website=A tradição das Rendas de Bilros de Vila do Conde para todo o mundo}}{{Cite web |title=Renda de Bilros {{!}} Saber Fazer Portugal |url=https://programasaberfazer.gov.pt/arte/renda-de-bilros |access-date=2023-09-04 |website=programasaberfazer.gov.pt |language=pt-pt}} France and Slovenia lacemakers still demonstrate the craft and sell their wares, though their customer base has shifted from the wealthy nobility to the curious tourist.

Still new types of lace are being developed such as the 3D Rosalibre{{cite book|last1=Belleville|first1=Cathleen|title=Introducing Rosalibre Bobbin Lacle|date=2002}} and a colored version of Milanese lace by borrowing rolls from Duchesse lace to store various shades and colors.{{cite book|last1=Woods|first1=Sandy|title=Special Effects in Bobbin Lace|date=2003|publisher=Batsford|isbn=0713480718}} Other artists are giving grounds a major role by distorting and varying stitches, pin distances and thread sizes or colours. The variations are explored by experimentation{{cite journal|last1=Wanzenried|first1=Esther|title=Moderne Gronden|journal=Kantbrief|issue=2014–4|pages=24–25|date=2014}}{{cite book|last1=Voelcker-Löhr|first1=Ulrike|title=Viele Gute Gründe|date=2003|location=Bochum}}{{cite book|last1=Ulrich|first1=Uta|title=Gründe mit System|date=2009|publisher=Fay, Barbara Verlag|location=Gammelby|isbn=978-3925184086}} and mathematics and algorithms.{{cite journal|last1=Irvine|arxiv=1406.1532|first1=Veronika|last2=Ruskey|first2=Frank|title=Developing a Mathematical Model for Bobbin Lace|journal=Journal of Mathematics and the Arts|date=2014|volume=8|issue=3–4|pages=95–110|doi=10.1080/17513472.2014.982938|bibcode=2014arXiv1406.1532I|s2cid=119168759}} The lace maintaining its shape without stiffening is no longer a requirement. Inspiring journals, guilds and foundations show that old techniques with a new twist can challenge young people to create works that can definitely classify as art.{{cite journal|last1=Dings|first1=Marcella|title=Schatgraven - Uitdaging |trans-title=Treasure Hunt - Challenge|journal=Kantbrief|issue=2014–4|page=34|date=2014}}

A Dutch design graduate in 2006 discovered bobbin lace was a technique to make a fancy fence. The first fences became museum pieces. The fences are now produced in Bangalore by concrete rebar plaiters.{{cite journal|last1=de Vries-de Graaf|first1=Tonny|title=Lace Fence (1)|journal=Kantbrief|issue=2011–3|pages=18–20|url=http://www.lokk.nl/kantarchief/KB32011/KANTK%20016%20Lace%20Fence_1.pdf|access-date=26 December 2014|date=2011|language=nl}}

File:Bobbin lace prickings and hook.JPG

File:Koronka klockowa. Słowacja.webm

The major tools to make bobbin lace are a pillow, bobbins, pins and prickings. The part laces also require a crochet hook, very fine types of lace require very fine hooks. There are different types of pillows and bobbins linked to areas, eras and type of lace.

Bobbins, which are traditionally made of wood or bone, are used to hold the thread. They come in different shapes, often associated with certain types of lace. The parts of a bobbin are the neck, which is where the thread is wound, a head, where thread is hitched to keep it from coming unwound, and the shank, which is used as a handle. Bobbins from England may also have a beaded spangle at the end of the shank, which makes the bobbin heavier and helps with tensioning the thread.{{Cite book|title=Beginner's guide to bobbin lace|first1=Gilian|last1=Dye|date=2007|publisher=Search|last2=Thunder|first2=Adrienne|isbn=9781844481088|location=Tunbridge Wells|pages=8–9|oclc=163617814}} Bobbins are usually 3 1/2 - 4 inches long, though they may be shorter or longer.{{Cite book|title=Pillow lace and bobbins|first=Jeffery|last=Hopewell|publisher=Shire Publications Ltd.|year=1984|isbn=0852636598|edition=Third|location=Aylesbury|page=15|oclc=12516276}} Bobbins are wound and used in pairs. Bobbin collection is a common aspect of the hobby for many lace makers. Within the lace community, commemorative bobbins designating annual meetings, special anniversaries, or historic events are frequently offered which become collector's items.

There are many types of bobbins, including:

• Belgian bobbins: They have a single head and a bulbous rounding near the end of the shank that helps with tensioning threads.{{Cite book|title=Cassell illustrated dictionary of lacemaking|first=Alexandra|last=Stillwell|date=1996|publisher=Cassell|isbn=0304341452|location=London|oclc=34597563}}
• Binche bobbins: The round bulb near the end of the shank is small, making these bobbins good for fine, straight laces.
• East Midlands bobbins: These double-headed bobbins are slender and spangled. They are also called Bucks or Midlands bobbins.
• Honiton bobbins: Honiton bobbins are straight below the single head, and the end of the shank comes to a blunt point, which helps with sewing. They may be called a lace stick.
• Square bobbins: Square bobbins have a shank with flattened sides, which makes it easier to keep them from rolling on the pillow.
• Portuguese bobbins: The bobbin is an elongated pear-shaped wooden artefact where the thread is wrapped.
• Bone bobbins are sometimes decorated with names, commemorative text, or other messages and patterns

{{Clear|right}}

Image:Dentelle-IMG_6795.jpg | Cat tails, whose points are convenient for sewing

File:Knipletrad.jpg | Danish bobbins

Image:The bobbin of the British type.jpg | Spangled bobbins

Image:Frohnauer Hammer (15) 2006-11-04.jpg | Hooded bobbins

Image:Dentelles Cogne2.JPG | Large bulbs to throw every now and then, Cogne

Image:L-Spitzen2.png | winding schemes with a single hitch

File:French Lace Pillow with bobbin cartridges.jpg|French Lace Pillow with bobbin cartridges

Image:Bobbin MET DP7530.jpg|Bone Bobbin MET DP7530, inscribed with text

Image:Bobbins (AM 9180).jpg|Bobbins (AM 9180), with various engraved decorations

File:Sweden 1775 lace roller pillow.jpg

The pillows must be firm, or otherwise the pins will wobble. The pillows were traditionally stuffed with straw, but nowadays polystyrene (styrofoam) is generally used.{{cite web|title=Lace Types: Bobbin Lace|url=https://www.lacetypes.com/bobbin.html|author=Leader, Jean E.| access-date=26 July 2022}} Pillows were historically characteristic of the different regions where lace was made, but contemporary lacemakers may have multiples styles of pillows to accomplish different lace styles and projects.

An early type of pillow can be seen in The Lace Maker by Caspar Netscher. The pillow has a wooden frame, and is slightly sloping. The lace-maker rests it on her lap. Another representation of the similar style of pillow is found in the painting The Lacemaker by Johannes Vermeer. The Lace-Maker portrait by Gabriël Metsu was memorialized in a postage stamp.

The bolster or cylindrical pillow was much cheaper to make as it is just a fabric bag stuffed with straw. It was used in Bedfordshire lace. It needs a stand as it does not have a flat bottom.{{cite book|title=Pillow Lace|isbn=0-903585-10-3|author=Elizabeth Mincoff|year=1981|publisher=Ruth Bean}} Usually the bolster had the pattern pinned round the cylinder, so by turning the pillow, the lace could be as long as was needed. However, Maltese lacemakers used the pillow the other way. They had a long thin pillow, which they rested against something. Then they worked the lace down the length of the pillow.{{cite web| url=https://vassallohistory.wordpress.com/maltese-crafts/ |title=Maltese Crafts |date=2013-04-18 |publisher=VassaloMalta| access-date=21 November 2014}}

This problem (of the lace needing to be longer than the pillow) is solved in a different way by the roller pillow, which has a small roller, for working the lace, set into a larger area, where the bobbins are laid. This means that the pattern can be pinned round the roller, but the pillow has a flat bottom.

The cheapest modern pillow is domed and made of polystyrene (styrofoam). It is often called a cookie pillow, because of its shape. Another modern pillow is a block pillow, with a frame which holds covered polystyrene blocks. The blocks can be moved around as the lace progresses, to keep the lace being worked on at the centre of the pillow.

File:Caspar Netscher 003.jpg|by Caspar Netscher an early pillow with a wooden frame

File:DDR 1959 Michel 694 Metsu.JPG|DDR 1959 Michel 694 Gabriël Metsu

File:Wybrand Hendriks (1744-1831) - The Lace Maker - FA000267 - Brighton Museum ^ Art Gallery.jpg|Wybrand Hendriks (1744-1831) - The Lace Maker - Brighton Museum Art Gallery

File:Tropinin lacemaker.jpg|by Vasily Tropinin

File:'Venetian Lacemakers' by Robert Frederick Blum, Cincinnati Art Museum.JPG|by Robert Frederick Blum bolster pillows

File:Leon Augustin LHermitte (French, 1844-1925) «The old lacemaker».jpg|by Léon Augustin Lhermitte a pillow typical for Queyras

File:Stamp of Brazil - 1976 - Colnect 152243 - Lacemaker.jpeg|Stamp of Brazil - 1976 - Lacemaker and bolster pillow

File:KITLV - 10831 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja - Women lace-makers from Palembang at the pasar malam in Surabaya - 1905-1906.tif|Woman lace-maker from Sumatra

File:Moa Island (woman sitting on mat making lace) Frank Hurley (25269461121).jpg|Moa Island (woman sitting on mat making lace)

File:Mundillo pillow.jpg|Mundillo bobbin lace roller pillow and bobbins with pricking, from Puerto Rico

File:Dentelles cogne epoca.jpg|Cogne pillows and stands

File:Snark Beaver.jpg|Victorian domed pillow in The Hunting of the Snark

File:Datteln - KF2011 - Markfelder Straße 08 ies.jpg|Modern domed pillow or "cookie pillow"

File:Malta, Lace making.jpg|Maltese bolster

File:Zestaw do wyrobu koronki klockowej Słowacja.jpg

File:Reproduction Ipswich lace pillow on display in the Smithsonian American History Museum.jpg|Ipswich bolster

File:Roller pillow.jpg|Roller pillow

File:Museu Etnològic del Castell de Guadalest, boixets.JPG|Roller pillow

File:Block pillow.jpg|Block pillow

File:Gens de l'alpe Musée dauphinois 2020 abc90.jpg|Type of lace loom in use in the Dauphinoise Alps

Lacemaking is considered a folk art with technique and materials varying widely across the globe. Most lacemakers belong to regional guilds within their country of origin. Guilds can be devoted to one kind of lace, often that which developed locally, or may include makers of all kinds. In the United States, most guilds are organized within chapters of the [https://internationalorganizationoflace.org/ International Organization of Lace], which also includes Canadian lace guilds. Quarterly publications of "The Bulletin" journal provide articles about current projects and events, historical research, annual meeting details, patterns, and more. Internationally, the Organisation Internationale de la Dentelle au Fuseau et à l'Aiguille (OIDFA, [https://www.oidfa.com/ International Bobbin and Needle Lace Organization]) is the primary governing and networking body for lacemakers. OIDFA organizes annual global congresses, regional fairs, and local gatherings to promote the appreciation and knowledge of lacemaking.

{{Reflist}}

• {{Cite EB1911|wstitle=Lace|volume=16|pages=37 ff.}}

{{Commons category|Bobbin lacemaking}}

• [http://www.encajedebolillos.es Encajedebolillos.es - Shows 20 different lace styles]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20080513231652/http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/stitches.htm An animation and explanation of various lace stitches]

{{Lace_types}}

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Bobbin Lace}}

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