chabrot
{{Short description|Occitanian culinary custom}}
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{{Infobox food
| name = Chabrot
| image = Chabrot 1.JPG
| caption = Preparation of chabrot
| alternate_name = faire chabròl, fà chabroù, godala, godaille, goudale
| region = Occitania
| course = at the end of the soup
| served = tepid, lukewarm
| main_ingredient = red wine in oily stock
}}
Faire chabrot ({{IPA|oc|ˈfajɾe tʃaˈbɾut}}) or faire chabròl ({{IPA|oc|... tʃaˈbɾɔl|pron}}) is an ancient Occitanian custom whereby at the end of a soup or broth, one adds red wine to the bowl to dilute the remnants and brings it to the lips to drink in large gulps.La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin, pp. 265-266.
History
Chabrot was usually performed with soups such as bréjaude or garbure.La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin, p. 112. This action required a traditional container used for serving soups, such as a deep, spherical bowl or dish.La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin, p. 111. This container usually had no handles, was made of clay, in a dome form and somewhat narrow. This practice was very popular historically. It is still practised today notably among older people in the countryside.
People from Périgord perform fà chabroù, in Limousin one performs chabrot, while in Provence, Frédéric Mistral explains that cabroù comes from the Latin capreolus. To faire chabrot, therefore, is "to drink like a goat." In Poitou and in Saintonge, the word "godaille" is also used. In Gascon, they use the term godala (likely a metathesis of goulade, "gulp"Simin Palay, Dictionnaire du gascon et du béarnais modernes, CNRS, 1980).
The practice may have arisen in places where food was scarce but wine was plentiful (and perhaps of low quality), as it ensures that essentially all the soup is consumed but some small amount of wine is likely to go to waste.
This practice appears to have existed north of the Loire: in the last volume of Chronique des Pasquier, Georges Duhamel writes of a longstanding practice, "It was a custom of my father," which was called champorot and was chabrot.
Modern usage
File:Vigneron faisant chabrot.jpg
Chabrot continues, notably in the Southwest of France. Jean Rebier (1879-1966), founder of the revue Lemouzi, describes the practice of chabrot as still relevant, "The soupe is regularly followed by a nice chabròl." Just as the ethnologist Albert Goursaud, deceased 1975, still talks about in the present, in his book The traditional rural society of Limousin: ethnography and folklore of Haut-Limousin and Basse-Marche published the year after his death. In his work, he distinguishes lost traditions from those that continued at the time he wrote it. Chabrot was performed commonly, at least in the countryside, just until the middle of the 20th century.
Catalan Jaume Fàbrega, born in 1948, indicates in Cuina del país dels càtars that while young, he witnessed at home lo cabròt.La cuina del país dels càtars, pàg. 154, Jaume Fàbrega, 2003, Ed. Cossetània. {{ISBN|84-96035-80-8}} Roland Manoury, musicologist and poet of Auvergne, created a march of glory for chabrot that is traditionally accompanied by accordion. Its refrain asserts:{{Cite web |url=http://www.daniel-lelievre.fr/partitions/faisonschabrot-3.pdf |title=Roland Manoury, Faisons chabrot |access-date=2015-03-30 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150607010320/http://www.daniel-lelievre.fr/partitions/faisonschabrot-3.pdf |archive-date=2015-06-07 |url-status=dead }}
{{verse translation|lang=fr|
À la soupe! À la soupe!
Voici l'heure du chabrot.
Nous, on a le vin en poupe
Quand on a le bouillon tout chaud
On verse un' rasade
De vin rouge bien costaud.
Si, de plus on est malade
Pour guérir, faisons chabrot.
|
To the soup! To the soup!
It's time for chabrot.
We have wine astern
When we have stock all hot
We pour a glassful
Of strong red wine
If, moreover we are sick
To recover, perform chabrot
}}
Today, chabrot is considered an old and rural gesture, but on certain occasions it can be performed in all environments, in a spirit of conviviality and friendliness. During a meal between gastronomists, Philippe Faure-Brac, best sommelier (wine steward) in the world in 1992, owner of « Bistrot du Sommelier » in Paris, and member of GJE,[http://www.davosduvin.com/articles-1/127-199-historique/ Le Grand Jury Européen] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110303124524/http://www.davosduvin.com/articles-1/127-199-historique/ |date=March 3, 2011 }} rose and asked for permission to perform chabrot with the rest of his cream of mushroom soup and some 1998 Cheval Blanc. Pierre Lurton, director of the societies of châteaus of Yquem and Cheval Blanc, replied by pouring the bottom of his glass into the soup. Everyone did the same. This modern version of chabrot consisted of tasting the mixture with a spoon, but no one drank directly from the dish.{{Cite web |url=http://lapassionduvin.com/phorum/read.php?28,192331 |title=Faire chabrot au Cheval-Blanc avec Philippe Faure-Brac et André Lurton sur le site lapassionduvin.com |access-date=2015-03-30 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160313201638/http://lapassionduvin.com/phorum/read.php?28,192331 |archive-date=2016-03-13 |url-status=dead }}
File:Chabrot 02.jpg|Chabrot in the Baronnies
File:Chabrot 04.jpg|Chabrot in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
File:Chabrot 01.jpg|Chabrot in Ardèche
File:Chabrot 05.jpg|Chabrot in the Hautes-Alpes
File:Chabrot 03.jpg|Chabrot in the Cévennes
File:Chabrot 2.JPG|Chabrot in a bar
See also
- {{Wiktionary-inline}}
Notes
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References
- Albert Goursaud, La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin : ethnographie et folklore du Haut-Limousin et de la Basse-Marche, V. I. 1976. Éd. G.-P. Maisonneuve et Larose, {{ISBN|2-7068-0611-7}} {{in lang|fr}}