clotted cream

{{Short description|Thick cream made by indirectly heating full-cream cow's milk}}

{{Infobox food

| name = Clotted cream

| image = Clotted cream (cropped).JPG

| image_size = 300px

| caption = A tub of clotted cream, showing top crust

| alternate_name = Clouted cream, Devonshire cream, Cornish cream

| country = England

| region = Devon, Cornwall

| creator =

| course =

| served =

| main_ingredient =

| variations =

| calories =

| other =

}}

Clotted cream ({{langx|kw|dehen molys}}, sometimes called scalded, clouted, Devonshire or Cornish cream) is a thick cream made by heating full-cream cow's milk using steam or a water bath and then leaving it in shallow pans to cool slowly. During this time, the cream content rises to the surface and forms "clots" or "clouts", hence the name.{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/outdoors/moors/dartmoor_diary/0403_contd.shtml|title=BBC - Devon Great Outdoors - Tony Beard's Dartmoor Diary}} Clotted cream is an essential ingredient for cream tea.

Although its origin is uncertain, the cream is associated with dairy farms in South West England and in particular the counties of Devon and Cornwall. The largest commercial producer in the United Kingdom is Rodda's at Scorrier, near Redruth, Cornwall, which can produce up to 25 tons of clotted cream a day.

In 1998, "Cornish clotted cream" was registered as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) under European Union law. The designation can be used if the production follows certain requirements, from milk produced in Cornwall and the cream has a minimum fat content of 55%. Following Brexit, the PDO was also registered under UK law. It is recognised as a geographical indication in Georgia, Iceland, Moldova, Montenegro, Norway, Serbia, Switzerland, and Ukraine.{{cite web|url=https://www.origin-gi.com/worldwide-gi-compilation/?or-global_search=clotted&or-country_of_origin=&or-world_regions=&or-legal_protection=&or-type_of_product=&or-product_tag=&filters-submit=Filter#gi-table|work=Origin GI|access-date=2 October 2021|title=GIs worldwide compilation|date=3 September 2021 }}

Description

{{Quote box

| quote = "Its orient tinge, like spring-time morn,

Or baby-buttercups newly-born;

Its balmy perfume, delicate pulp,

One longs to swallow it all at a gulp,

Sure man had ne'er such gifts or theme

As your melt-in-mouthy Devonshire cream."

| source = "An eulogy on a can of cream sent from a lady in Exeter". (extract)

—William Barry Peacock, Manchester, 1853{{Citation| last = Hawker| first = Rev. J. M.| title = Clouted Cream| journal = Report and Transactions of the Devonshire Association| volume = 13| pages = 317–323| year = 1881| url=https://archive.org/details/ReportTransactionsOfTheDevonshireAssociationVol131881}}

| width = 25%

| align = right

}}

Clotted cream has been described as having a "nutty, cooked milk" flavour,{{cite book|last=Figioni|first=Paula|title=How Baking Works: Exploring the Fundamentals of Baking Science|year=2010|publisher=John Wiley and Sons|isbn=978-0-470-39267-6|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XqKF7PqV02cC&q=clotted+cream+flavour|page=363}} and a "rich sweet flavour" with a texture that is grainy, sometimes with oily globules on the crusted surface. It is a thick cream, with a very high fat content (a minimum of 55 percent, but an average of 64 percent). For comparison, the fat content of single cream is only 18 percent.{{cite book|last=Barnett|first=Anne|title=Understanding Ingredients|year=1998|publisher=Heinemann|isbn=0-435-42827-6|page=26}}

According to the UK Food Standards Agency, clotted cream provides {{convert|586|kcal|lk=on}} per {{convert|100|g}}.{{cite book|title=Food Standards Agency: Manual of Nutrition|year=2008|publisher=HMSO London}}

History

Originally made by farmers to reduce the amount of waste from their milk, clotted cream has become so deep-rooted in the culture of southwest Britain that it is embedded as part of the region's tourist attractions.{{cite book |title=Between the local and the global: confronting complexity in the contemporary agri-food sector |year=2006 |publisher=Emerald Group Publishing |isbn=0-7623-1317-X |pages=306–309 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6285iMejcogC&q=clotted+cream |author=Terry Marsden |author2=Jonathan Murdoch |access-date=2 December 2010 }} While there is no doubt of its strong and long association with Cornwall and Devon, it is not clear how ancient its origins are.

File:Carn Euny fogou - geograph.org.uk - 1297253.jpg or souterrain]]

The Oxford Companion to Food follows traditional folklore by suggesting it may have been introduced to Cornwall by Phoenician traders in search of tin.{{cite book |title=The Oxford companion to food |year=2006 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=0-19-280681-5 |page=225 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JTr-ouCbL2AC&q=clotted+cream&pg=PA225 |author=Alan Davidson |author2=Tom Jaine }} It is similar to kaymak (or kajmak), a Near Eastern delicacy that is made throughout the Middle East, southeast Europe, Iran, Afghanistan, India, and Turkey. A similar clotted cream known as {{transliteration|mn|urum}} ({{lang|mn|өрөм}}) is also made in Mongolia.

Contemporary ancient food experts,{{cite book |author-link=Jacqui Wood |last=Wood |first=Jacqui |title=Prehistoric Cooking |location=Stroud |publisher=Tempus |date=2001 |isbn=0-752-41943-9 }} noting Strabo's commentaries on Britain,{{refn|group=Note|"They live off their herds ... As they have mines of tin and lead, they give these metals and hides from their cattle to the sea traders ... instead of olive oil they use butter."}} have proposed that the early Britons would probably have clotted cream to preserve its freshness.

More recently, regional archaeologists Medieval Decon & Cornwall: Shaping an Ancient Countryside, Ed. Sam Turner, 2006 have associated the stone fogou (dial. 'fuggy-hole'), or souterrains, found across Atlantic Britain, France, and Ireland as a possible form of "cold store" for dairy production of milk, cream, and cheese in particular. Similar functions are ascribed to the linhay (or 'linney') stone-built form, often used as a dairy in later medieval longhouses in the same regions.{{cite web |title=The Pre-Norman Landscape |date=12 December 2020 |url=http://www.historic-cornwall.org.uk/flyingpast/continuity.html#courtyard |publisher=Flyingpast.org |access-date=22 December 2012 |archive-date=9 December 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131209172838/http://www.historic-cornwall.org.uk/flyingpast/continuity.html#courtyard |url-status=dead }}

File:Parsonage Farm- Dairy Farming in Devon, England, 1942 D10226.jpg, 1942.]]

It has long been disputed whether clotted cream originated in Devon or Cornwall, and which county makes it best.See for instance: {{cite book |title=A tour through Cornwall, in the autumn of 1808 |year=1809 |publisher=Wilkie and Robinson |pages=360–361 |url=https://archive.org/details/atourthroughcor00warngoog }} and {{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/education/education-news/the-tartars-of-cream-1156842.html |title=The tartars of cream |work=The Independent |access-date=2011-01-07 |last=Spencer |first=Nikki |date=30 May 1998 |location=London }} There is evidence that the monks of Tavistock Abbey were making clotted cream in the early 14th century.{{cite book |last=Lane |first=John |title=In Praise of Devon: A Guide to Its People, Places and Character |year=1998 |publisher=Dundurn Press |isbn=1-870098-75-7}} After their abbey had been ransacked by Vikings in AD 997, the monks rebuilt it with the help of Ordulf, Earl of Devon. In a BBC report, local historians claimed local workers were drafted in to help with the repairs, and the monks rewarded them with bread, clotted cream, and strawberry preserves.{{cite news |title=Did cream teas originate in Tavistock in 997AD |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/news_features/2004/tavistock_cream_tea.shtml |access-date=3 December 2010 |work=BBC News |date=17 January 2004 }} The 1658 cookery book The Compleat Cook had a recipe for "clouted cream".{{cite web |url=http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/compleat_cook/to_make_clouted_cream_1.php |title=To make Clouted Cream |work=Vintage Recipes |access-date=2011-07-09 |archive-date=2014-08-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140819084653/http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/compleat_cook/to_make_clouted_cream_1.php |url-status=dead }}

File:Clotted cream tin.jpg

In the 19th century it was regarded as better nourishment than "raw" cream because that cream was liable to go sour and be difficult to digest, causing illness.{{cite book |last=Sinclair |first=John |title=The code of health and longevity: or, A concise view, of the principles calculated for the preservation of health, and the attainment of long life|year=1807 |publisher=A. Constable & co |pages=[https://archive.org/details/codehealthandlo00sincgoog/page/n261 272]–273 |url=https://archive.org/details/codehealthandlo00sincgoog }} An article from 1853 calculates that creating clotted cream will produce 25 percent more cream than regular methods.{{cite news |title=Rural economy: The dairy |url=https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1853/01/21/75351676.pdf |access-date=3 December 2010 |newspaper=The New York Times |date=21 January 1853 }} In Devon, it was so common that in the mid-19th century it was used in the formative processes of butter, instead of churning cream or milk. The butter made in this way had a longer lifespan and was free from any negative flavours added by the churning.{{cite book |title=The transactions of the Provincial medical and surgical association |year=1839 |publisher=Provincial Medical and Surgical Association |location=Worcester |pages=203–204 }}

It has long been the practice for local residents in southwest England, or those on holiday, to send small tins or tubs of clotted cream by post to friends and relations in other parts of the British Isles.{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/education/education-news/the-tartars-of-cream-1156842.html|title=The tartars of cream |work=The Independent |access-date=2011-01-07 |last=Spencer |first=Nikki |date=30 May 1998 |location=London }}

=Protected Designation of Origin=

In 1993, an application was made for the name Cornish clotted cream to have a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) in the European Union for cream produced by the traditional recipe in Cornwall. This was accepted in 1998.{{cite EU regulation |serial=2088/98 |date=30 September 1998 |description=supplementing the Annex to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 on the entry of certain names in the Register of protected designation of origin and protected geographical indications |eurlextag=31998R2088 }} Cornish clotted cream must be made from milk produced in Cornwall and have a minimum butterfat content of 55 percent.{{cite web |title=EU Protected Food Names Scheme — UK registered names — National application No: 03514: Cornish clotted cream |publisher=Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs |url=http://www.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/food/industry/regional/foodname/products/registered/cornclcream.htm |archive-url=http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20130822084033/http://www.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/food/industry/regional/foodname/products/registered/cornclcream.htm |url-status=dead |archive-date=22 August 2013 |access-date=10 July 2016}} The unique, slightly yellow Cornish clotted cream colour is due to the high carotene levels in the grass.

Preparation

Traditionally, clotted cream was created by straining fresh cow's milk, letting it stand in a shallow pan in a cool place for several hours to allow the cream to rise to the surface, then heating it either over hot cinders or in a water bath, before a slow cooling.{{cite journal|last=Fielden|first=Marjory Eckett|year=1934|title=Old-time survivals in Devon|journal=Report and Transactions of the Devonshire Association|publisher=The Devonshire Press|location=Torquay|volume=LXVI|page=367}} The clots that formed on the top were then skimmed off with a long-handled cream-skimmer, known in Devon as a reamer or raimer. By the mid-1930s, the traditional way of using milk brought straight from the dairy was becoming a rarity in Devon because using a cream separator actively separated the cream from the milk using centrifugal force, which produced far more clotted cream than the traditional method from the same amount of milk.

Today, there are two distinct methods for making clotted cream. The "float cream method" includes scalding a floating layer of double cream in milk (skimmed or whole) in shallow trays. To scald, the trays are heated using steam or very hot water. After the mixture has been heated for up to an hour it is slowly cooled for 12 hours or more, before the cream is separated and packaged.{{cite book|last=Early|first=Ralph|title=The technology of dairy products|year=1998|publisher=Springer|isbn=0-7514-0344-X|pages=45–49|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BuR28Y-S4SMC&q=clotted+cream}} The "scald cream method" is similar, but the milk layer is removed and a layer of cream, which has been mechanically separated to a minimum fat level is used. This cream is then heated in a similar manner, but at a lower temperature and after a set amount of time it is then chilled and packaged. In the United Kingdom the resultant cream is deemed to be equivalent to pasteurised for legal purposes. Unlike pasteurisation, however, there is no requirement for the temperatures to be recorded on thermograph charts.{{cite book|title=Milk and milk products: technology, chemistry and microbiology |year=2001 |publisher=Springer |isbn=0-8342-1955-7 |pages=204–205 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WorGTC1YjsIC&q=clotted+cream+crust|author=A. H. Varnam|author2=Jane P. Sutherland}} As the temperatures are lower than used in standard pasteurisation, much care is needed in ensuring high standards of hygiene.

The largest manufacturer in the United Kingdom is Rodda's, a family-owned business based in Scorrier, Cornwall.{{cite web

|url=https://www.theguardian.com/business/2011/may/22/roddas-clotted-cream-boss-whips-up-a-media-frenzy |title=Rodda's clotted cream boss whips up a media frenzy |work=The Observer |location=London |date=22 May 2011|access-date=12 March 2013}} Founded in 1890, the company was producing over {{convert|1000000|lb|kg}} per year in 1985.{{cite news |last=Anderson |first=Lisa |title='Clotted cream' caviar of dairy|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=ub4yAAAAIBAJ&pg=1298,1063710&dq=clotted+cream+legend&hl=en|access-date=3 December 2010|newspaper=Ottawa Citizen |date=23 January 1985}} In 2010 the managing director said that they might produce as little as {{convert|5|long ton|kg lb}} a day in January, but up to {{convert|25|long ton|kg lb}} a day as Christmas approached.{{cite web|title=Interview with Nicholas Rodda|url=http://www.businesscornwall.co.uk/features/face-to-face-nicholas-rodda-123|access-date=2 December 2010|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101106015533/http://www.businesscornwall.co.uk/features/face-to-face-nicholas-rodda-123|archive-date=6 November 2010}} In the early 1980s, Rodda's signed deals with international airlines to serve small tubs of clotted cream with the in-flight desserts. The company considers the annual Wimbledon tennis championships one of their peak selling periods. As a by-product, for every {{convert|100|impgal}} of milk used, {{convert|94|impgal}} of skimmed milk is produced, which is then used in food manufacture.

One Devon manufacturer, Definitely Devon was purchased by Robert Wiseman Dairies in March 2006, closing one of the two Devon dairies and moving all production to Okehampton.{{cite news|title=Forty-five jobs go in dairy close |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/devon/6078182.stm|access-date=2 December 2010 |work=BBC News |date=23 October 2006}} However, in 2011 Robert Wiseman sold the Definitely Devon Brand to Rodda's, who moved the production of Definitely Devon to Cornwall, which caused some controversy as the name was not changed,{{cite news | url= http://www.thisisdevon.co.uk/Fury-Definitely-Devon-clotted-cream-Cornwall-label-saying-add-jam/story-11758309-detail/story.html | title= Fury as 'Definitely Devon' clotted cream is made in Cornwall and label says add jam first | publisher= This Is Devon | date= 21 April 2011 | access-date= 13 June 2011 | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20110723140823/http://www.thisisdevon.co.uk/Fury-Definitely-Devon-clotted-cream-Cornwall-label-saying-add-jam/story-11758309-detail/story.html | archive-date= 23 July 2011 | url-status= dead }} prompting an investigation by Trading Standards.{{cite news | url= http://www.thisiscornwall.co.uk/Trading-probe-Definitely-Devon-claims/story-12123391-detail/story.html | date= 26 May 2011 | title= Trading probe into 'Definitely Devon' claims | publisher= This Is Cornwall | access-date= 13 June 2011 | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20120210035000/http://www.thisiscornwall.co.uk/Trading-probe-Definitely-Devon-claims/story-12123391-detail/story.html | archive-date= 10 February 2012 | url-status= dead }}

Throughout southwest England, clotted cream manufacture is a cottage industry, with many farms and dairies producing cream for sale in local outlets. Clotted cream is also produced in Somerset,{{cite web|url=http://www.restaurant-guide.com/st-jamess-restaurant-at-fortnum-and-mason.htm|title=Restaurants in UK - Book UK Restaurants - Bookatable|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120326033920/http://www.restaurant-guide.com/st-jamess-restaurant-at-fortnum-and-mason.htm|archive-date=2012-03-26}} Dorset,{{cite web|url=http://www.heightshotel.com/dining/dorset_cream_tea.htm|title=Dorset Afternoon Teas at Heights Hotel on Portland|work=Heights Hotel|access-date=2011-07-09|archive-date=2014-07-09|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140709164505/http://www.heightshotel.com/dining/dorset_cream_tea.htm|url-status=dead}} Herefordshire,[http://www.potsandpieces.com/Teashop.html The Teashop, Ross-on-Wye] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130621162646/http://www.potsandpieces.com/Teashop.html |date=June 21, 2013 }} Pembrokeshire,[http://www.welshicons.org.uk/main/food-drink/producers/welsh-dairy-products/ Welsh Icons: Welsh Dairy Products] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111002005621/http://www.welshicons.org.uk/main/food-drink/producers/welsh-dairy-products/ |date=2011-10-02 }} and the Isle of Wight.{{Cite web |url=http://www.realislandfood.co.uk/Dairy/Cream/Calbourne-Classics-Isle-of-Wight-clotted-cream/p-364-366-1764/ |title=Calbourne Classics Isle of Wight clotted cream |access-date=2011-07-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120111062955/http://www.realislandfood.co.uk/Dairy/Cream/Calbourne-Classics-Isle-of-Wight-clotted-cream/p-364-366-1764/ |archive-date=2012-01-11 |url-status=dead }}

When authentic clotted cream is not available, there are ways to create a substitute product, such as by mixing mascarpone with whipped cream, a little sugar, and vanilla extract.{{cite web|title=Devonshire (Clotted) or Devon Cream Recipe|url=http://www.joyofbaking.com/DevonshireCream.html|publisher=Joy of Baking|access-date=3 December 2010}}

Uses

=Cream tea=

File:Cream tea Brighton.jpg

Clotted cream is an essential part of a cream tea, a favourite with tourists particularly in Cornwall and Devon. It is served on scones—or the more traditional "splits"{{Cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/aug/22/nigel-slater-cream-tea-recipes |title=Nigel Slater's Devonshire cream tea recipes |work=The Guardian |location=London |date=22 August 2010}}—with strawberry jam,{{cite news |title=The History of Devonshire Tea|url=https://thedevonshireteaguide.com.au/the-history-of-the-devonshire-tea/}} along with a pot of tea. Traditionally, there are differences in the way it is eaten in each county: in Devon, the cream is traditionally spread first on the scone, with the jam dolloped on top. In Cornwall the jam is spread first with a dollop of cream.{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/cornwall/hi/people_and_places/newsid_8694000/8694384.stm |title=How do you do take your cream tea? |access-date=2 December 2010 |publisher=BBC News Online |date=9 June 2010 }} Cream teas, known as Devonshire teas, spread to southern Australia as early immigrants from Cornwall and Devon took their traditional recipes with them.{{cite book |title=Wakefield Companion to South Australian History |year=2001 |publisher=Wakefield Press |isbn=1-86254-558-8 |page=210 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EDgPo8KWKh4C |author1=Wilfrid Prest |author2=Kerrie Round |author3=Carol S. Fort }} In 2010, Langage Farm in Devon started a campaign for "Devon cream tea" to have protected designation of origin similar to "Cornish clotted cream".{{cite news |title=Cream teas battle rages between Devon and Cornwall |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/7746090/Cream-teas-battle-rages-between-Devon-and-Cornwall.html |access-date=3 December 2010 |newspaper=The Daily Telegraph |date=20 May 2010 |location=London |first=Richard |last=Savill}}{{cite news |title=Devon cream tea campaign put to government|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10262655 |access-date=2 December 2010 |work=BBC News |date=8 June 2010 }} One variation on a cream tea is called "Thunder and Lightning" which consists of a round of bread topped with clotted cream and golden syrup, honey, or treacle.{{cite news |title=Britain's Best at Teatime |date=5 September 1982 |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/09/05/travel/britain-s-best-at-teatime.html |access-date=2007-01-28 }}

=Confectionery=

Clotted cream can be used as an accompaniment to hot or cold desserts. Clotted cream, especially clotted cream from Devon, where it is less yellow due to lower carotene levels in the grass, is regularly used in baking. It is used throughout southwest England in the production of ice cream and fudge.

=Savoury dishes=

Clotted cream is used in some savoury dishes,{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/clotted_cream|title=BBC - Food - Clotted cream recipes}} and can be incorporated into mashed potato, risotto or scrambled eggs.{{cite web |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/jun/22/clotted-cream-perfect-summer-treat|title=Clotted cream: the perfect summer treat |date=22 June 2011| work=The Guardian |location=London}}

=Historical=

Cabbage cream (which does not contain cabbage despite the name) was a delicacy in the mid-17th century: layers of clotted cream were interspersed with sugar and rosewater, creating a cabbage-like effect when served.{{cite book|title=A gift to young housewives|year=1998|publisher=Indiana University Press|isbn=0-253-21210-3|pages=368–369}} It was a common accompaniment to junket, a milk-based dessert that went out of fashion in the mid-20th century.

Literature and folklore

Clotted cream was mentioned in The Shepheardes Calendar, a poem by Edmund Spenser in 1579:

Ne would she scorn the simple shepherd swain,

For she would call him often heam,

And give him curds and clouted cream.

As with many Cornish and Devonian icons, clotted cream has become entrenched in local folklore. For example, one myth tells of Jenny who enticed the giant Blunderbore (sometimes called Moran) by feeding him clotted cream. He eventually fell in love with her and made her his fourth wife.{{cite book|last=Viccars|first=Sue|title=Frommer's Devon and Cornwall With Your Family|year=2011|publisher=Frommer|isbn=978-0-470-74947-0|page=238}} Another myth, from Dartmoor, tells of a princess who wanted to marry an elven prince, but according to tradition had to bathe in pure cream first. A witch who wanted the prince for her daughter kept souring the cream. Eventually, the prince offered the princess clotted cream that the witch was unable to sour.{{cite web|url=http://www.legendarydartmoor.co.uk/clott_cream.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070520112745/http://www.legendarydartmoor.co.uk/clott_cream.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=20 May 2007|title=Dartmoor Clotted Cream|publisher=Legendary Dartmoor|access-date=2010-12-03|last=Sandles|first=Tim}}

Clotted cream is also mentioned as one of the staple foods of the hobbits in J.R.R. Tolkien's The Lord of the Rings books.{{cite book |last1=Smith |first1=Noble |title=The Wisdom of the Shire: A Short Guide to a Long and Happy Life |publisher=Macmillan |url=https://archive.org/details/wisdomofshiresho0000smit|url-access=registration |quote=lotr OR lord of the rings clotted cream. |via=Internet Archive |pages=[https://archive.org/details/wisdomofshiresho0000smit/page/13 13] |date=2012-10-30 |isbn=9781250025562 |access-date=2017-01-26}}