lokma

{{Short description|Deep fried dough pastries}}

{{Infobox food

| name = Lokma

| image = Sam'dan lokma tatlisi.jpg

| image_size = 250px

| caption =

| alternate_name = Loukoumas, loukoumades, luqma crispella{{cite book |last=Marks |first=Gil |title=The Encyclopedia of Jewish Food |date=17 November 2010 |isbn=9780544186316 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gFK_yx7Ps7cC&pg=PT1136}}

| country = Mesopotamia

| region =

| creator =

| type = Fried dough

| served =

| main_ingredient = Yeast-leavened dough, oil, sugar syrup or honey

| variations = Zalabiyeh Owaymat Enkrides

| calories =

| other =

}}

Lokma is a dessert made of leavened and deep fried dough balls, soaked in syrup or honey, sometimes coated with cinnamon or other ingredients. The dish was described as early as the 13th century by al-Baghdadi as luqmat al-qādi ({{Lang|ar|لُقْمَةُ ٱلْقَاضِيِ}}), "judge's morsels".{{cite book|first1=Alan|last1=Davidson|title=The Oxford Companion to Food|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bIIeBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA424|pages=424–425 |publisher=Oxford University Press|date=21 August 2014|isbn=9780191040726|via=Google Books}}Charles Perry, A Baghdad Cookery Book, 2006. {{ISBN|1-903018-42-0}}.{{cite book|first1=Habeeb|last1=Salloum|title=Sweet Delights from a Thousand and One Nights: The Story of Traditional Arab Sweets|pages=49–52 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=if5fAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA49|publisher=I.B.Tauris|date=25 June 2013|isbn=9780857733412|via=Google Books}}

Etymology

The Arabic word {{Transliteration|ar|luqma}} ({{lang|ar|لُقْمَةٌ}}) (plural {{Transliteration|ar|luqmāt}}), means morsel, mouthful, or bite.{{cite book|first1=Diran|last1=Kélékian|title=Dictionnaire Turc-Français|language=fr|url=http://menadoc.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/ssg/content/pageview/821883|publisher=Mihran|date=1911}}{{cite web|access-date=2020-01-01|title=lokma|url=http://nisanyansozluk.com/?k=lokma|language=tr|website=Nişanyan Sözlük}} The dish was known as {{Transliteration|ar|luqmat al-qādi}} ({{Lang|ar|لُقْمَةُ ٱلْقَاضِيِ}}) or "judge's morsels" in 13th-century Arabic cookery books, and the word luqma or loqma by itself has come to refer to it. The Turkish name for the dish, {{lang|tr|lokma}}, is derived from the Arabic, as is the Greek name {{Transliteration|el|loukoumádes}} ({{Lang|el|λουκουμάδες}}).

History

File:Loukoumades Greek Doughnuts with Walnuts and Honey.jpg, Australia]]

The recipe for Luqmat al-Qadi, yeast-leavened dough boiled in oil and doused in honey or sugar syrup with rosewater, dates back to at least the early medieval period and the 13th-century Abbasid Caliphate, where it is mentioned in several of the existent cookery books of the time. It is also mentioned in the One Thousand and One Nights, in the story The Porter and the Three Ladies of Baghdad. The explorer and scholar Ibn Battuta in the 14th century encountered the dish he knew as Luqaymat al-Qadi at a dinner in Multan, during his travels in medieval India, where his hosts called it al-Hashimi.

It was cooked by palace cooks in the Ottoman Empire for centuries and influenced by other countries cuisines of the former countries of the Ottoman Empire in the Balkans, Middle East, and the Caucasus.{{citation needed|date=September 2020}}

Preparation

File:Lokma in İzmir.jpg, Turkey]]

The thick and smooth yeast batter rises and has a very soft and foamy consistency. The batter is usually dropped into hot oil and fried to a golden brown color, but some are doughnut-shaped. Lokma are served with honey and, occasionally, cinnamon.{{cite web|url=http://www.sbs.com.au/food/recipes/greek-honey-balls-loukoumades|title=Greek honey balls (loukoumades)|date=8 July 2010 }}

Traditionally, the batter was leavened with yeast but modern variations sometimes use baking powder.{{cite book|first1=Joudie|last1=Kalla|title=Palestine on a Plate: Memories from My Mother's Kitchen|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xXWxDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA203|publisher=White Lion Publishing|date=17 September 2019|isbn=978-0-7112-4528-0|via=Google Books}}

Regional varieties

=Arab countries=

File:Lugaimat Riyadh 2024.jpg toppings sold in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia]]

Today, in Iraq, it is called lokma or luqaymat (diminutive plural of luqma lit. 'small bites'), and they differ both in size and taste across the country. While in Arab countries of the Persian Gulf, lugaimat, sometimes spiced with cardamom or saffron, are little changed from the 13th-century recipes, in parts of the Middle East they may also be called {{Transliteration|ar|awameh}} ({{lang|ar|عوامة}}), meaning "floater", or {{Transliteration|ar|zalabya}} ({{lang|ar|زلابيا}}), with numerous spelling variations, though the latter term may also refer to a similar dish made in a long spiral or straight baton shape.{{cite book|first=Michael|last=Krondl|title=The Donut: History, Recipes, and Lore from Boston to Berlin|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GwiAAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA6|publisher=Chicago Review Press|date=1 June 2014|isbn=978-1-61374-670-7|via=Google Books}}{{cite book|first=Charles|last=Perry|author-link=Charles Perry (food writer)|editor-first=Darra|editor-last=Goldstein|title=The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jbi6BwAAQBAJ&pg=PA796|publisher=Oxford University Press|date=2015 |isbn=978-0-19-931339-6|via=Google Books}}{{cite book|first1=Arto der|last1=Haroutunian|title=Sweets & Desserts from the Middle East|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6cSIDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT99|publisher=Grub Street Publishers|date=19 March 2014|isbn=978-1-909808-58-4|via=Google Books}} They are traditionally included in times of religious observances; for example in the Levant by Muslims at Ramadan, Jews at Hanukkah, and Christians at Epiphany alike.

=Cyprus=

File:Turkish Cypriot pastries.jpg]]

The pastry is called {{Transliteration|el|loukoumádes}} ({{lang|el|λουκουμάδες}}) and {{Transliteration|el|lokmádes}} ({{lang|el|λοκμάδες}}) in Cypriot Greek. They are commonly served spiced with cinnamon in a honey syrup and can be sprinkled lightly with powdered sugar.

=Greece=

The dish called {{Transliteration|el|loukoumádes}} ({{lang|el|λουκουμάδες}}) is a mainstay of Greek cooking, in particular in the south of Greece, and is a popular street food served with any combination of honey, cinnamon, walnuts and chocolate sauce.

There is evidence that loukoumades originated from "enkrides", a dough fried in oil and enjoyed with honey in Ancient Greece.{{Cite web |title=MEALS AND RECIPES FROM ANCIENT GREECE |url=https://www.calameo.com/read/0011463519ea800835cb0 |access-date=2025-01-04 |website=calameo.com |language=en}} This treat continued to be popular in the Byzantine era, particularly during Lent, as the absence of dairy or meat meant that it met the requirements of Orthodox fasting (Greek: νήστεις, nēsteis).{{Cite book |url=https://brill.com/edcollbook/title/34799?language=en |title=Feast, Fast or Famine: Food and Drink in Byzantium |date=2005-01-01 |publisher=Brill |isbn=978-90-04-34485-3 |editor-last=Mayer |editor-first=Wendy |language=en |editor-last2=Trzcionka |editor-first2=Silke}}

References to deep fried donuts soaked in honey syrup, called "enkrides" (Greek: ἐγκρίς, plural ἐγκρίδες), are found in several Ancient Greek texts including works by Archestratus, Aeschylus, Steischorus, Epicharmus, Nikophon, Aristophanes and Pherecrates.{{Cite web |title=Athenaeus, The Deipnosophists, Book XIV., chapter 54 |url=https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus:text:2013.01.0003:book=14:chapter=54 |access-date=2025-01-04 |website=www.perseus.tufts.edu}}{{Cite journal |last=Rapp |first=Albert |date=1955 |title=The Father of Western Gastronomy |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/3293756 |journal=The Classical Journal |volume=51 |issue=1 |pages=43–48 |jstor=3293756 |issn=0009-8353}} In The Deipnosophists, Athenaeus describes enkrides as "cakes boiled in oil" and "seasoned in honey".{{Cite web |title=Athenaeus: Deipnosophists - translation |url=https://www.attalus.org/info/athenaeus.html |access-date=2025-01-04 |website=www.attalus.org}}

Loukoumades have also been likened to "charisios" (Ancient Greek: χᾰρῑ́σῐος), or "honey tokens". Callimachus mentions that these were given as gifts to victors of the Olympic games. Aristophanes and Eubulus both describe charisios as "grace" or "joy" cakes (from the Greek word χαρά meaning joy), enjoyed at nocturnal festivals called "pannichis" (Greek: Παννυχίς).{{Cite web |title=Athenaeus: Deipnosophists - Book 15 (a) |url=https://www.attalus.org/old/athenaeus15a.html |access-date=2025-01-04 |website=www.attalus.org}} The recipe for charisios has not been recorded.

In the Byzantine period, enkrides, or loukoumades, were popular during Lent. As a sweet treat made with only flour, yeast and water, and sweetened with honey, they met the requirements of Orthodox fasting and were also popular in monasteries.{{Cite book |last=KOUKOULES |first=Phaidon I. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BjwbMwEACAAJ |title=Βυζαντινων Βιος Και Πολιτισμος. (Vie Et Civilisation Byzantines.) [With Plates.] Gr |date=1948 |language=en}} Along with halva, they are considered an example of the creative inventiveness of Orthodox Christians in this period.

This term was also used by the Romaniotes (Greek Jews) as the name for loukoumades, who call them zvingoi ({{lang|el|σβίγγοι}}) and make them as Hanukkah treats.{{cite book|last1=Marks|first1=Gil|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gFK_yx7Ps7cC&pg=PT1921|title=Encyclopedia of Jewish Food|date=17 November 2010|publisher=HMH|isbn=9780544186316|via=Google Books}}{{cite web |url=http://ioanninajewishlegacy.com/IoanninaEL/relifeCalendarDescriptionEL.php |publisher=Canadian Embassy in Greece, The Jewish Museum of Greece, The City of Ioannina and the Jewish Community of Ioannina |work=Ioannina Jewish Legacy Project |title=Χάνουκα |access-date=30 June 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150922162712/http://ioanninajewishlegacy.com/IoanninaEL/relifeCalendarDescriptionEL.php |archive-date=22 September 2015 |language=Greek}}

Pontic Greeks who migrated from the Black Sea as a result of the Lausanne Conference call them tsirichta ({{lang|el|τσιριχτά}}).{{cite web|date=October 19, 2012|title=Tsirichta|url=https://www.pontosnews.gr/262034/syntages/tsirichta/|publisher=Pontos News|language=Greek}}Tsirichta are served at Pontian weddings.{{cite web|title=Tsirichta, the Donuts of Pontus|url=https://www.trapezounta.gr/recipe/tsirichta/|website=Trapezounta}}{{cite web|date=March 23, 2020|title=Tsirichta, the Pontian Loukoumades|url=https://www.lelevose.gr/tsirixta-oi-pontiakoi-loukoumades/|website=Lelevose}}

=Turkey=

File:Lokma Galata Bridge.JPG in Istanbul]]

There are different types of lokma in Turkey. Dessert lokma are made with flour, sugar, yeast and salt, fried in oil and later bathed in syrup or honey. In some regions of Turkey lokma are eaten with cheese, similar to breakfast bagels.Geleneksel hayır lokması Nedir? [https://lokmaci.org.tr/ hayır lokması]{{Cite web |title=Lokma tatlısı tarifi: Geleneksel lokma yapılışı ve malzemeleri… |url=https://hayirlokmasi.org/ |access-date=2024-08-11 |website=www.hayirlokmasi.org}} İzmir lokması are doughnut shaped with a hole in the middle. The spherical one is called the Palace Lokma (Turkish: Saray lokması).{{citation needed|date=May 2021}} In the Güdül-Ayaş regions of Ankara, there is a type of lokma known as bırtlak.Pouring [https://lokmahayri.com/ Lokma] dessert for charity

Traditionally, forty days after someone passes away, close relatives and friends of the deceased cook large quantities of lokma for neighbours and passersby. People form queues to get a plate and recite a prayer for the soul of the deceased after eating the lokma.

See also

References

{{Reflist}}

Further reading

  • A.D. Alderson and Fahir İz, The Concise Oxford Turkish Dictionary, 1959. {{ISBN|0-19-864109-5}}
  • Γ. Μπαμπινιώτης (Babiniotis), Λεξικό της Νέας Ελληνικής Γλώσσας, Athens, 1998

{{Egyptian cuisine}}{{Cuisine of Turkey}}

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{{Cuisine of Lebanon}}

{{Cuisine of Greece}}

{{Cuisine of the Levant}}

{{Doughnut}}

Category:Arab desserts

Category:Egyptian cuisine

Category:Iraqi cuisine

Category:Emirati desserts

Category:Bahraini cuisine

Category:Greek desserts

Category:Kurdish cuisine

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Category:Doughnuts

Category:Jewish cuisine

Category:Hanukkah foods

Category:Turkish desserts

Category:Pontic Greek cuisine