mulligatawny
{{short description|Curry soup based on an Indian recipe of the British Raj times}}
{{distinguish|Mulligan stew (food)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=August 2019}}
{{Infobox food
| name = Mulligatawny
| image = Mulligatawny-Soup Mumbai.jpg
| image_size =
| image_alt = A bowl of soup in a metal bowl
| caption = Mulligatawny as served in Mumbai
| type = Other
| country = Tamil Nadu, India
| national_cuisine =
| served = Hot, often with rice
| main_ingredient =
| minor_ingredient =
| variations =
| similar_dish = Rasam
| other =
}}
Mulligatawny ({{IPAc-en|audio=GT Mulligatawny.ogg|ˌ|m|ʌ|l|ɪ|g|ə|ˈ|t|ɔː|n|i}}) is a soup which originated from Tamil cuisine. The name originates from the Tamil words {{lang|ta-Latn|miḷagu}} ({{lang|ta|மிளகு}} 'black pepper'), and {{lang|ta-Latn|thanneer}} ({{lang|ta|தண்ணீர்}}, 'water'); literally, "pepper-water".{{Cite book |last=Clarkson |first=Janet |title=Soup : a global history |date=2010 |publisher=Reaktion |isbn=978-1-86189-774-9 |location=London |pages=118 |oclc=642290114 }} It is related to the dish {{lang|ta-Latn|rasam}}.{{Cn|date=July 2022}}
Main ingredients commonly include chicken, mutton, and lentils.
History
Mulligatawny was popular in India by the end of the 18th century, and by the 19th century it began to appear in cookbooks of the day, with each cook (or cookbook) featuring its own recipe.{{Cite book|title=Food Culture in Colonial Asia: A Taste of Empire|last=Leong-Salobir|first=Cecilia|publisher=Taylor & Francis|year=2011|isbn=978-0-415-60632-5|location=Abingdon, Oxon, UK|page=17}} Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly at that time and over the years (e.g., Maria Rundell's A New System of Domestic Cookery contained three versions), and later versions of the soup included British modifications that included meat,{{cite book|url=https://archive.org/stream/b21528378#page/74/mode/1up|page=74 |title=The wife's help to Indian cookery : being a practical manual for housekeepers|author= Dawe, W.H.|year=1888| publisher=Elliot Stock| place= London}} although the local Madras (modern Chennai) recipe on which it was based did not. Early references to it in English go back to 1784.{{cite book|url=https://archive.org/stream/hobsonjobson029985mbp#page/n648/mode/1up/| page=595| title=Hobson Jobson|author=Yule, Henry| edition=2| place=London| publisher=John Murray|year=1902}} In 1827, William Kitchiner wrote that it had become fashionable in Britain:
{{Quote|text=Mullaga-Tawny signifies pepper water. The progress of inexperienced peripatetic Palaticians{{efn|"Palatician" may be a nonce word derived from "palate", in the sense of the ability to distinguish between and appreciate different flavours.}} has lately been arrested by this outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our Coffee-Houses; it has, we believe, answered the "Restaurateurs{{'"}} purpose, and often excited {{Smallcaps|John Bull}}, to walk in and taste—the more familiar name of Curry Soup—would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to seduce him from his much-loved {{Smallcaps|Mock-Turtle}}.
It is a fashionable Soup and a great favourite with our East Indian friends, and we give the best receipt{{efn|"Receipt" is an old form of "recipe".{{cite web|url=https://www.merriam-webster.com/wordplay/recipe-vs-receipt-usage-word-history|title=When a Recipe Was a ‘Receipt’|publisher=Merriam Webster|access-date=2024-10-05}}}} we could procure for it.{{cite book|author=Kitchiner, William |year=1827|title=The Cook's Oracle; Containing Recipes for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families| place= Edinburgh| publisher= Cadell and Co. |url=https://archive.org/stream/b22016430#page/n287/mode/1up/|pages=262–263}}{{cite journal|author=Roy, Modhumita| year=2010| volume=45| issue=32| journal=Economic and Political Weekly|pages=66–75|title= Some Like It Hot: Class, Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup | jstor=20764390|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/20764390}}}}
File:Mulligatawny-Rezept ATYR 22.08.1868 Seite 249 marked.jpg
By the mid-1800s, Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (1840–1916), under the pen name Wyvern, wrote in his popular Culinary Jottings that "really well-made mulligatunny is ... a thing of the past." He also noted that this simple recipe prepared by poorer natives of Madras as made by "Mootoosamy" was made by pounding:
{{Quote|text=a dessert-spoonful of tamarind, six red chillies, six cloves of garlic, a tea-spoonful of mustard seed, a salt-spoonful of fenugreek seed, twelve black peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of salt, and six leaves of karay-pauk. When worked to a paste, he adds a pint of water, and boils the mixture for a quarter of an hour. While this is going on, he cuts up two small onions, puts them into a chatty, and fries them in dessert-spoonful of ghee till they begin to turn brown, when he strains the pepper-water into the chatty, and cooks the mixture for five minutes, after which it is ready. The pepper-water is, of course, eaten with a large quantity of boiled rice, and is a meal in itself. The English, taking their ideas from this simple composition, added other condiments, with chicken, mutton, &c., thickened the liquid with flour and butter, and by degrees succeeded in concocting a soupe grasse of a decidedly acceptable kind.{{cite book|title=Culinary Jottings. A treatise in thirty chapters on reformed cookery for Anglo-Indian rites, based upon modern English and continental principles with thirty menus.| author="Wyvern" [Kenney-Herbert, Arthur Robert 1840–1916]|edition=5| year=1885| publisher=Higginbotham and Co.|place= Madras|url= https://archive.org/stream/culinaryjottings00kenn#page/306/mode/2up/|pages=306–307}}{{cite journal| journal=Journal of Women's History |volume=15| issue=2 |year=2003 |pages= 123–149 |title=Feeding the Imperial Appetite Imperial Knowledge and Anglo-Indian Domesticity|author=Procida, Mary |doi=10.1353/jowh.2003.0054 |s2cid=143009780 |url=https://muse.jhu.edu/article/45682|url-access=subscription }}}}
Ingredients
According to the Oxford Companion to Food, the simplest version of the soup included chicken or mutton, fried onion, and spices.{{Cite book |last=Davidson |first=Alan |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/890807357 |title=The Oxford companion to food |date=2014 |publisher=Oxford University Press |others=Tom Jaine, Soun Vannithone |isbn=978-0-19-967733-7 |edition=3rd |location=New York, NY |pages=21, 330 |language=English |oclc=890807357}} More complex versions may call for "a score of ingredients". Versions originating in southern India commonly called for lentils.
See also
Footnotes
{{notelist}}