obi (sash)#Women's obi types

File:GeishaObi.jpg in the 1890s.]]

In its early days, the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} was a cord or ribbon-like sash, approximately {{convert|8|cm|in}} in width. Men's and women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} were similar. At the beginning of the 17th century, both women and men wore a thin, ribbon-like {{transliteration|ja|obi}}. By the 1680s, the width of women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} had already doubled from its original size. In the 1730s women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} were about {{convert|25|cm|in}} wide, and at the turn of the 19th century were as wide as {{convert|30|cm|in}}. At that time, separate ties and cords were necessary to hold the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} in place. Men's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} were widest in the 1730s, at about {{convert|16|cm|in}}.Dalby, pp. 47–55

Before the Edo period, {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} robes were fastened with a narrow sash at the hips.Fält et al., p. 450. The mode of attaching the sleeve widely to the torso part of the garment would have prevented the use of wider {{transliteration|ja|obi}}. When the sleeves of the {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} began to grow in both horizontal width and vertical length at the beginning of the Edo period, the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} widened as well. There were two reasons for this: firstly, to maintain the aesthetic balance of the outfit, the longer sleeves needed a wider sash to accompany them; secondly, unlike today (where they are customary only for unmarried women) married women also wore long-sleeved kimono in the 1770s. The use of long sleeves without leaving the underarm open would have hindered movements greatly. These underarm openings in turn made room for even wider {{transliteration|ja|obi}}.

Originally, all {{transliteration|ja|obi}} were tied in the front. Later, fashion began to affect the position of the knot, and {{transliteration|ja|obi}} could be tied to the side or to the back. As {{transliteration|ja|obi}} grew wider the knots grew bigger, and it became cumbersome to tie the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} in the front. By the end of the 17th century {{transliteration|ja|obi}} were mostly tied in the back. However, the custom did not become firmly established before the beginning of the 20th century.

At the end of the 18th century, it was fashionable for a woman's {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} to have overly long hems that were allowed to trail behind when in house. For moving outside, the excess cloth was tied up beneath the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} with a wide cloth ribbon called {{transliteration|ja|shigoki obi}}. Contemporary women's kimono are made similarly over-long, but the hems are not allowed to trail; the excess cloth is tied up to hips, forming a fold called the {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}}. {{transliteration|ja|Shigoki obi}} are still used, but only as a decorative accessory.

The most formal women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, the {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}}, is technically obsolete, worn only by some brides, with a modified, longer version - the {{transliteration|ja|darari obi}} (lit., "dangling {{transliteration|ja|obi}}") - worn by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, in the present day. The lighter {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} has taken the place of {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}}. The originally-everyday {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} is the most common {{transliteration|ja|obi}} used today, and fancy {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} may even be accepted as a part of a semi-ceremonial outfit.

The use of fancy, decorative {{transliteration|ja|obi}} knots has also narrowed, though mainly through the drop in the numbers of women wearing kimono on a regular basis, with most women tying their {{transliteration|ja|obi}} in the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}} (lit., "drum knot") style.Dalby, pp. 208–212 {{transliteration|ja|Tsuke obi}}, also known as {{transliteration|ja|tsukiri obi}}, have gained popularity as pre-tied belts accessible to those with mobility issues or a lack of knowledge on how to wear {{transliteration|ja|obi}}.

Tatsumura Textile located in Nishijin in Kyoto is a centre of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} manufacture today. Founded by Heizo Tatsumura I in the 19th century, it is renowned for making some of the most luxurious {{transliteration|ja|obi}} available.{{cite web|url=https://www.tatsumuraarttextiles.com/about/tatsumura_heizoh.html|title=About Heizo 1st Tatsumura – Official Site of Tatsumura Textile, Kyoto|website=www.tatsumuraarttextiles.com}} Amongst Tatsumura's students studying design was the later-painter Inshō Dōmoto.

The technique {{transliteration|ja|nishijin-ori}}, traditionally produced in the Nishijin area of Kyoto, is intricately woven and can have a three dimensional effect, costing up to 1 million yen.{{cite web|url=http://japan-brand.jnto.go.jp/eng/crafts/textiles/33/|title=Nishijin-ori Fabric – Authentic Japanese product|website=japan-brand.jnto.go.jp}}{{cite web|url=https://www.world.jal.com/world/en/guidetojapan/detail/index.html?spot_code=nishijinori|title=JAL Guide to Japan – Nishijin-ori Weaving and Textiles|website=www.world.jal.com|access-date=2016-07-08|archive-date=2017-07-30|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170730021518/https://www.world.jal.com/world/en/guidetojapan/detail/index.html?spot_code=nishijinori|url-status=dead}}{{cite web |url=http://www.nishijin.or.jp/eng/eng.htm |title=Nishijin Textile Industrial Association |access-date=2007-10-19 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071007131329/http://www.nishijin.or.jp/eng/eng.htm |archive-date=2007-10-07 }}

The Kimono Institute was founded by Kazuko Hattori in the 20th century and teaches how to tie an {{transliteration|ja|obi}} and wear it properly.{{cite web|url=http://kimonomuseum.com/|title=着物の着付けを学ぶなら｜服部和子きもの学院（本校・京都）|website=kimonomuseum.com}}{{Cite web | url=http://www.minpaku.ac.jp/sites/default/files/research/activity/news/rm/pdf/100827_hattori.pdf | title=きもの・その美 | trans-title=Kimono and its beauty | access-date=2024-05-19}}{{cite web|url=http://ameblo.jp/tanakasetsuko/entry-11066824881.html|title=『"服部和子ワールド" モテマナー講座開催☆』|website=ameblo.jp}}[http://www.thekyoto.net/kyoukyou/0811/081113_03/ Unknown]{{Dead link|date=April 2020 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}

File:Obi dimensions.png

There are many types of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} for women, with certain types of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn only with certain types of kimono to certain occasions.Fält et al., p. 452. Often, the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} can adjust the formality of the entire kimono outfit, with the same kimono being worn to occasions of differing formality depending on the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn with it.{{cite web |url=http://www.traditional-japanese-kimono.com/Kimono-Basics/types-of-obi.html |title=Types of Obi |access-date=2009-03-07 |archive-date=2009-04-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090414125845/http://www.traditional-japanese-kimono.com/Kimono-Basics/types-of-obi.html |url-status=dead }} Most women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} no longer keep the kimono closed, owing to their stiffness and width, and a number of ties worn under the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} keep the kimono in place.

A woman's formal {{transliteration|ja|obi}} can be {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and more than {{convert|4|m|ft}} long, with the longest variety – the {{transliteration|ja|darari obi}}, nearing {{convert|6|m|ft}} in length – worn only by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} in some regions of Japan. Some women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are folded in two width-wise when worn, to a width of about {{convert|15|cm|in}} to {{convert|20|cm|in}}; the full width of the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is present only in the knot at the back of the kimono, with the band around the middle appearing to be half-width when worn.

There are a number of different ways to tie an {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, and different knots are suited to different occasions and different kimono. The {{transliteration|ja|obi}} itself often requires the use of stiffeners and cords for definition of shape and decoration, and some knots, such as the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}}, require additional accessories in order to keep their shape.

File:Nagoya obi.JPG

File:Tsuke 021008.png

File:Yukataobi.jpg

File:HanaYukataInari.jpg

• {{Nihongo3|"dangling {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|だらり帯|Darari obi}} are very long {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}} worn by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} in some regions of Japan. A {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}'s {{transliteration|ja|darari obi}} features the crest of the geisha house she is affiliated with at the end of the {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, below the {{transliteration|ja|kaikiri}} (end lines). {{transliteration|ja|Darari obi}} are roughly {{convert|600|cm|ft}} long, but in some cases can be as long as {{convert|700|cm|ft}} long.{{Cite web |title=Black with Golden Butterflies Darari Obi - Vintage Silk Geisha Maiko Formal Kimono Belt - Unique Modern Style - Traditional Japanese |url=https://kimono-yumeya.com/products/black-with-golden-butterflies-darari-obi-vintage-silk-geisha-maiko-formal-kimono-belt-unique-modern-style-traditional-japanese |access-date=2023-12-22 |website=Kimono Dream Shop |language=en}}
• {{Nihongo3|"pouch {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|袋帯|Fukuro obi}} are slightly less formal than {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}}, despite being functionally the most formal variety of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn today. {{transliteration|ja|Fukuro obi}} are made from either a single double-width length of fabric with a seam down one edge, or from two lengths of fabric sewn together down each edge; for {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} made from two lengths of fabric, the fabric used for the backside may be cheaper and appear to be more plain.{{transliteration|ja|Fukuro obi}} are made in roughly three subtypes. The most formal and expensive of these is patterned brocade on both sides. The second type is two-thirds patterned, the so-called "60% {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}}", and is somewhat cheaper and lighter than the first type. The third type has patterns only in the parts that will be prominent when the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is worn in the common {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}} style.{{cite web |url=http://www.gojapango.com/fashion/obi_types.html |title=Japanese Obi Types |access-date=2009-03-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121022222812/http://www.gojapango.com/fashion/obi_types.html |archive-date=2012-10-22 |url-status=dead }} {{transliteration|ja|Fukuro obi}} are roughly {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|360|cm|ft}} to {{convert|450|cm|ft}} long.{{pb}}When worn, a {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} is nearly impossible to tell from a {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}}.
• {{Nihongo||袋名古屋帯|Fukuro nagoya obi}} or {{nihongo3|"eight-inch {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}}"|八寸名古屋帯|hassun nagoya obi}} is an {{transliteration|ja|obi}} that has been sewn in two only where the {{transliteration|ja|taiko}} knot would begin. The part wound around the body is folded when put on. The {{transliteration|ja|fukuro nagoya obi}} is intended for making the more formal, two-layer variation of the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}}, known as the {{transliteration|ja|nijuudaiko musubi}}. It is about {{convert|350|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo3|"thin sash"|細帯|Hoso obi}} is a collective name for informal half-width {{transliteration|ja|obi}}. {{transliteration|ja|Hoso obi}} are {{convert|15|cm|in}} to {{convert|20|cm|in}} wide and roughly {{convert|330|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo3|"half-width {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|半幅帯/半巾帯|Hanhaba obi}}{{cite web |url=http://www.ui-kimono.com/obi/index.html |script-title=ja:出張着付・半巾帯の販売・着付講習 "京都 宇ゐ" |access-date=2009-03-06|language= ja }} are a type of thin and informal {{transliteration|ja|obi}}{{cite web | url= http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/kimono3-1.html | script-title= ja:帯の種類について | author= Toma-san | access-date= 2009-03-08 | language= ja | url-status= dead | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20081220202451/http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/kimono3-1.html | archive-date= 2008-12-20 }} worn with a {{transliteration|ja|yukata}} or a lower-formality {{transliteration|ja|komon}}. {{transliteration|ja|Hanhaba obi}} are very popular, as they are easy to wear, relatively cheap, and often come in a variety of colourful designs. For use with {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}, reversible {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} are popular: they can be folded and twisted in several ways to create colour effects. A {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} is {{convert|15|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|300|cm|ft}} to {{convert|400|cm|ft}} long. Tying it is relatively easy, and does not require pads or strings. The knots used for {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} are often simplified versions of {{transliteration|ja|bunko-musubi}}. As it is easy to tie and less formal, the {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} is sometimes worn in self-invented styles, often with decorative ribbons and accessories.
• {{Nihongo||小袋帯|Kobukuro obi}} is an unlined {{transliteration|ja|hoso obi}} roughly {{convert|15|cm|in}} to {{convert|20|cm|in}} wide and roughly {{convert|300|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo||典雅帯|Hara-awase obi}} or {{nihongo3|"day-and-night {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|昼夜帯|chūya obi}} is an informal {{transliteration|ja|obi}} that has sides of different colours. Having been historically popular, the {{transliteration|ja|chūya obi}} is frequently seen in woodblock prints and photographs from the Edo and Meiji periods, and most {{transliteration|ja|chūya obi}} are vintage or antique pieces; they are not as frequently made or worn today. {{transliteration|ja|Chūya obi}} typically have a dark, sparingly decorated underside and a more colourful, decorated topside; the underside is commonly plain black satin silk ({{transliteration|ja|shusu}} silk) with no decoration, though {{transliteration|ja|chūya obi}} with decoration on both sides do exist. {{transliteration|ja|Chūya obi}} are frequently not lined, making them relatively floppy, soft and easy to tie. They are about {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|350|cm|ft}} to {{convert|400|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo3|"soft {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|兵児帯|Heko obi}} are very informal {{transliteration|ja|obi}} made of soft, thin cloth, often dyed with {{transliteration|ja|shibori}}. Their traditional use was as an informal {{transliteration|ja|obi}} for children and men,{{cite web |url=http://www.ichiroya.com/glossary.htm |title=Glossary |access-date=2009-03-07 |archive-date=2009-02-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090219164520/http://www.ichiroya.com/glossary.htm |url-status=dead }} and though historically would have been inappropriate for women to wear, the {{transliteration|ja|heko obi}} is now also worn by young girls and women with modern, informal kimono and {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}. An adult's {{transliteration|ja|heko obi}} is roughly the same size of any other adult {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, about {{convert|20|cm|in}} to {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and about {{convert|300|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo3|"one-layer {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|単帯|Hitoe obi}}{{cite web |url=http://www.kimonoplace.com/glossary.html |title=Glossary |author=Kimono Place |access-date=2009-03-07}} are made from cloth stiff enough that the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} does not need a lining or a sewn-in stiffener. One well-known type of {{transliteration|ja|hitoe obi}} is the {{nihongo||博多織帯|hakata-ori obi}}, which consists of thick weft thread interwoven with thin warp thread with a stiff, tight weave;{{cite web |url=http://www.fukunet.or.jp/21c-hakataori/english/hakataori.html |title=What's HAKATA-ORI? |work=21st Century HAKATA-ORI Japan Brand |access-date=2011-07-17 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120327182417/http://www.fukunet.or.jp/21c-hakataori/english/hakataori.html |archive-date=2012-03-27 }} {{transliteration|ja|obi}} made from this material are also called {{nihongo||博多帯|hakata obi}}. A {{transliteration|ja|hitoe obi}} can be worn with everyday kimono or {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}. A {{transliteration|ja|hitoe obi}} is {{convert|15|cm|in}} to {{convert|20|cm|in}} wide (the so-called {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}}) or {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and about {{convert|400|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo3|"capital {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}}"|京袋帯|Kyōbukuro obi}} was invented in the 1970s in Nishijin, Kyoto. It lies between the {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} and the {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} in terms of formality and use, and can be used to smarten up an everyday outfit. A {{transliteration|ja|kyōbukuro obi}} is structured like a {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} but is as short as a {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}}. It thus can also be turned inside out for wear like reversible {{transliteration|ja|obi}}. A {{transliteration|ja|kyōbukuro obi}} is about {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|350|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo3|"one-piece {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|丸帯|Maru obi}} is the most formal type of women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, though all but obsolete today. It is made from cloth about 68 cm wide and is folded around a double lining and sewn together. {{transliteration|ja|Maru obi}} were at their most popular during the Taishō and Meiji periods. Their bulk and weight make {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}} difficult to tie by oneself, and are worn only by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} and brides in the present day. A {{transliteration|ja|maru obi}} is about {{convert|30|cm|in}} to {{convert|35|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|360|cm|ft}} to {{convert|450|cm|ft}} long,{{cite web |url= http://www.ichiroya.com/moreaboutobi/moreaboutobi.htm |title= More about obi |publisher= Kimono Flea Market Ichiroya |access-date= 2009-03-07 |archive-date= 2009-02-18 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20090218112032/http://www.ichiroya.com/moreaboutobi/moreaboutobi.htm |url-status= dead }} fully patterned and is often embroidered with metal-coated yarn and foilwork.
• {{Nihongo3|"chopping board {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|俎板帯|Manaita obi}} is the style of front-tied, flat {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn historically by some {{transliteration|ja|oiran}} (courtesans), and now worn by courtesan-reenactors and kabuki actors on stage. {{transliteration|ja|Manaita obi}} are thickly padded and commonly feature large-scale, heavily decorated and sometimes three-dimensional motifs such as butterflies, clouds and Chinese dragons, typically on a background of satin silk.
• {{Nihongo||名古屋帯|Nagoya obi}} – also called {{nihongo3|"nine-inch {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}}"|九寸名古屋帯|kyūsun nagoya obi}} – is the most-used {{transliteration|ja|obi}} type today. A {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} is distinguished by its structure: one end is folded and sewn in half, the other end is of full width. This is to make putting the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} on easier. A {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} can be partly- or fully-patterned. It is normally worn only in the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}} style, and many {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} are designed so that they have patterns only in the part that will be most prominent in the knot. {{transliteration|ja|Nagoya obi}} are shorter than other {{transliteration|ja|obi}} types, about {{convert|315|cm|ft}} to {{convert|345|cm|ft}} long, but of the same width, about {{convert|30|cm|in}}.{{pb}}The {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} is relatively new, developed by a seamstress living in Nagoya at the end of the 1920s. The new, easy-to-use {{transliteration|ja|obi}} gained popularity among Tokyo's geisha, from whom it then was adopted by fashionable city women for their everyday wear.{{pb}}The formality of a {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} depends on its material, just as with other {{transliteration|ja|obi}} types. Since the {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} was originally used as everyday wear, it cannot be worn to very formal occasions, but a {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} made from heavy brocade is considered acceptable as semi-ceremonial wear.{{pb}}The term {{transliteration|ja|"nagoya obi"}} can also refer to another {{transliteration|ja|obi}} with the same name, used centuries ago. This {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}} was cord-like.{{cite web |url=http://www.yoshinoantiques.com/kimono.html |title=Kimono |author=Yoshino Antiques |access-date=2009-03-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090326233826/http://www.yoshinoantiques.com/kimono.html |archive-date=2009-03-26 }}
• {{Nihongo3|"dance {{transliteration|ja|obi}}|踊帯|Odori obi}} is a name for {{transliteration|ja|obi}} used in dance acts. An {{transliteration|ja|odori obi}} is typically simply-patterned with large, obvious motifs, commonly woven in gold or silver metallic threads, so as to be easily-visible from the audience. {{transliteration|ja|Odori obi}} can be {{convert|10|cm|in}} to {{convert|30|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|350|cm|ft}} to {{convert|450|cm|ft}} long. As the term {{transliteration|ja|"odori obi"}} is not established, it can refer to any {{transliteration|ja|obi}} meant for dance acts, though is generally understood to refer to {{transliteration|ja|obi}} with large and simplistic metallic designs.
• {{Nihongo3|"rag weave {{transliteration|ja|obi}}|裂織帯|Sakiori obi}} are a style of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} made by using strips of old cloth, woven into a narrow, striped fabric. The warp yarn is typically an actual yarn, whereas the strips of recycled cloth as used as the weft; though narrow, {{transliteration|ja|sakiori obi}} may require cloth the equivalent of three kimonos' worth to create. Historically woven at home out of necessity, {{transliteration|ja|sakiori obi}} are informal, and are generally not worn outside the house. A {{transliteration|ja|sakiori obi}} is similar to a {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} in size, and though informal, is prized as an example of rural craftsmanship.
• {{Nihongo3|"fancy {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|典雅帯|Tenga obi}} resemble {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}}, but are considered to be more formal. They are usually wider and made from fancier cloth more suitable for celebration. The patterns usually include auspicious, celebratory motifs. A {{transliteration|ja|tenga obi}} is about {{convert|20|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|350|cm|ft}} to {{convert|400|cm|ft}} long.
• {{Nihongo||付け帯|Tsuke obi}} or {{nihongo||作り帯|tsukuri obi}} or {{nihongo3|"easy {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|簡単帯|kantan obi}} refers to any ready-tied {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, regardless of the knot the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} has been sewn into. It often has a separate, internally-stiffened knot piece, and a piece that is wrapped around the waist. The {{transliteration|ja|tsuke obi}} is fastened in place by ribbons attached to each piece.{{cite web |url= http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/tukuriobi.html |script-title= ja:作り帯のつけ方 |author= Toma-san |access-date= 2009-03-06 |language= ja |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20090208073903/http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/tukuriobi.html |archive-date= 2009-02-08 |url-status= dead }} {{transliteration|ja|Tsuke obi}} are most commonly informal styles of {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, though more formal pre-tied {{transliteration|ja|obi}} do exist, as they are indistinguishable from a regular {{transliteration|ja|obi}} when worn.

• {{nihongo3|"{{transliteration|ja|obi}} bustle"|帯揚げ|Obiage}}{{cite book|last=David|first=Vee|title=The Kanji Handbook|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OxjRAgAAQBAJ&pg=PT1999|year=2013|publisher=Tuttle Publishing|isbn=978-1-4629-1063-2|page=1999}} is a scarf-like length of cloth worn above the {{transliteration|ja|obi}}. Though it functions as decoration, it may also function to cover the {{transliteration|ja|obimakura}} and keep the upper part of the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} knot in place. The {{transliteration|ja|obiage}} can be worn by women at any age, with it being custom to show more of the {{transliteration|ja|obiage}} the younger one is. It can be tied in a variety of different ways, and is commonly dyed using the {{transliteration|ja|shibori}} – typically the {{transliteration|ja|kanoko shibori}} – dye technique.
• {{nihongo3|"sash clip"|帯留|Obidome}} is a small, decorative brooch fastened onto the {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} at the front, commonly made from precious metals and gemstones. Though most {{transliteration|ja|obidome}} are relatively small, the {{transliteration|ja|obidome}} worn by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} are comparably much larger, and may be the most expensive item of the {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}'s finished outfit. Certain types of {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} are woven specifically for {{transliteration|ja|obidome}} to be fastened to them.
• {{transliteration|ja|Obi-ita}} are long stiffeners inserted between folds of the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} at the front, giving it a smooth, flat appearance.{{cite web | url = http://www.sailormo.net/kimono/k_access.html | title = Sailor Mo's Cosplay – Kimono Accessories | access-date = 2009-03-07 | archive-date = 2008-07-31 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080731205341/http://www.sailormo.net/kimono/k_access.html | url-status = dead }} Some types of {{transliteration|ja|obi-ita}} are attached around the waist with cords before the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is put on; {{transliteration|ja|obi-ita}} are available in a number of different sizes, weights and materials to suit both the season and the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} itself.
• {{nihongo||帯締め|Obijime}} are decorative {{transliteration|ja|kumihimo}} cords roughly {{convert|150|cm|ft}} long tied around the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} and knotted at either the front or the back. The {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} can be both functional and decorative, serving to keep certain {{transliteration|ja|obi musubi}} in place and add extra decoration to an outfit. Most {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} are woven silk, with a number of varieties - such as rounded {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} worn with {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}, open-weave {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} worn for summer and {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} with gold and silver threads worn to formal occasions - available. One less commonly-worn variety of {{transliteration|ja|obijime}}, the {{transliteration|ja|maruguke obijime}}, is not a woven cord, and is instead a sewn, stuffed tube of fabric; this variety is generally only worn with {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} worn to highly formal events and on stage by kabuki actors. Woven or otherwise, most {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} feature tassels at each end.
• {{nihongo3|"{{transliteration|ja|obi}} pillow"|帯枕|Obimakura}} is a small pillow that supports and shapes the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} knot. The most common knot worn by women today, the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}}, is shaped and held in place with the use of an {{transliteration|ja|obimakura}}; elsewhere, one or two large {{transliteration|ja|obimakura}} are used in the tying of the {{transliteration|ja|darari musubi}} worn by some {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}.

File:Otaiko harm 021008.png|The structure of the common {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}} (drum bow). The {{transliteration|ja|obijime}} is shown in mid-shade grey, the {{transliteration|ja|obiage}} in dark grey. The {{transliteration|ja|obimakura}} is hidden by the {{transliteration|ja|obiage}}.

File:Japanese obi and kimono.jpg|The back view of obi and obijime

The {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn by men are much narrower than those of women, with the width of most men's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} being about {{convert|10|cm|in}} at the most. Men's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are worn in a much simpler fashion than women's, worn below the stomach and tied in a number of relatively simple knots at the back - requiring no {{transliteration|ja|obijime, obiage, obi-ita}} or {{transliteration|ja|obimakura}} to achieve.

• {{Nihongo3|"waistband"|兵児帯|Heko obi}} are soft, informal {{transliteration|ja|obi}} made from drapey and often {{transliteration|ja|shibori}}-dyed fabrics such as crêpe, silk {{transliteration|ja|habutai}}, cotton and others. It is generally tied in a loose, casual knot; though {{transliteration|ja|heko obi}} for children are short, {{transliteration|ja|heko obi}} for adults are roughly as long as any other adult-sized {{transliteration|ja|obi}} – {{convert|350|cm|ft}} to {{convert|400|cm|ft}} long – but can be comparably wider, at up to {{convert|74|cm|in}}.{{cite web|url=http://kotobank.jp/word/兵児帯 |title=兵児帯 |work=百科事典マイペディア / kotobank.jp |access-date=2007-07-17}} Adult men generally wear {{transliteration|ja|heko obi}} only at home or in the summer months with a {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}, whereas young boys can wear it in public at mostly any time of year.
• {{Nihongo3|"stiff {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|角帯|Kaku obi}} is the second type of men's {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, roughly {{convert|10|cm|in}} wide and {{convert|400|cm|ft}} long. Depending on its material, colours and patterns, {{transliteration|ja|kaku obi}} are suitable for any and all occasions, from the most informal to the most formal of situations. {{transliteration|ja|Kaku obi}} are most commonly made of {{transliteration|ja|hakata-ori}}), but can also be made from silk pongee (known as {{transliteration|ja|tsumugi}}), silk gauze and heavier, brocade-type weaves of silk.{{cite web |url=http://kotobank.jp/word/角帯 |title=角帯 |work=百科事典マイペディア / kotobank.jp |access-date=2007-07-17}} A variety of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} knots exist for the {{transliteration|ja|kaku obi}}, and it is most commonly worn in the {{transliteration|ja|kai-no-kuchi}} knot.
• {{Nihongo3|"dance {{transliteration|ja|obi}}|踊帯|Odori obi}} are also worn by men, but are much narrower. Male versions are roughly {{convert|11.5|cm|in}} wide and have a length of around {{convert|350|cm|ft}} long.{{Cite web |title=踊り帯 踊帯 三寸 メンズ 男帯 柄 おしゃれ nm-3856-3870 |url=https://odori-company.com/?pid=141356947 |access-date=2023-12-22 |website=舞扇子 着物 日本舞踊衣装・和装関連商品 販売 通販 ODORI Company (おどりかんぱにー) アウトレットコーナーも好評 |language=ja}} They, like women's versions, are also simply-patterned with large, obvious motifs, commonly woven in gold or silver metallic threads, so as to be easily-visible from the audience.

File:Kaku obi.png|A reversible {{transliteration|ja|kaku obi}}, about {{convert|6|cm|in}} wide

File:Stiff obi,Kaku-obi,Katori-city,Japan.jpg|{{transliteration|ja|Kaku obi}}

File:壽字吉祥文蒔絵印籠 - Inrō with the Characters for Longevity and Good Fortune and the “Seven Lucky Treasures” on Checkerboard Ground.jpg}} and {{transliteration|ja|netsuke}}. Edo period, 18th century]]

Men's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are not generally worn with accessories, being for the most part too thin to accommodate any of the accessories worn with women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}}.

However, in the Edo period, practical box-shaped accessories called {{nihongo||印籠|inro}}, which hung from {{transliteration|ja|kaku obi}} with a fastener called {{transliteration|ja|netsuke}}, became popular. {{transliteration|ja|Sagemono}} is a general term for bags and boxes for cigarettes, pipes, ink, brushes, etc. Among them, a small stackable box for seals and medicines is {{transliteration|ja|inro}}. {{transliteration|ja|Inro}}, which originated in the Sengoku period, were first used as practical goods, but after the middle of the Edo period, when {{transliteration|ja|inro}} were gorgeously decorated with various lacquer techniques such as {{transliteration|ja|maki-e}} and {{transliteration|ja|raden}}, samurai and wealthy merchants competed to collect them and wore them as accessories with kimono. And from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period, {{transliteration|ja|inro}} became a complete art collection. Nowadays, {{transliteration|ja|inro}} are rarely worn as kimono accessories, but there are collectors all over the world.Masayuki Murata. 明治工芸入門 pp. 104–106. Me no Me, 2017 {{ISBN|978-4907211110}}Yūji Yamashita. 明治の細密工芸 pp. 80–81. Heibonsha, 2014 {{ISBN|978-4582922172}}

File:Have you ever wear Kimono recut.jpg

Children's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are generally soft, simple sashes, designed to be easy and comfortable to wear, though older children may wear simple, stiffer {{transliteration|ja|obi}} made short, such as {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} and {{transliteration|ja|kaku obi}}; as they age, children begin to wear kimono outfits that are essentially miniaturised versions of adult kimono and {{transliteration|ja|obi}}.{{cite web |url=http://www.japanesekimono.com/childrens_kimono.htm |title=Children's Kimono |author=JapaneseKimono.com |access-date=2009-03-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090315082816/http://www.japanesekimono.com/childrens_kimono.htm |archive-date=2009-03-15 }} The youngest children wear soft, scarf-like {{transliteration|ja|obi}}.

• {{Nihongo3|"three-foot-long {{transliteration|ja|obi}}"|三尺帯, さんじゃくおび|Sanjaku obi}} is a type of men's {{transliteration|ja|obi}}. It is named for its length, three {{nihongo|old Japanese feet|鯨尺||about {{convert|37.9|cm|in}}}}. The {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is sometimes known simply as {{nihongo||三尺|sanjaku}}. During the Edo period, it gained popularity as a simple and easy-to-wear {{transliteration|ja|obi}} paired with casual, everyday kimono. According to some theories, the {{transliteration|ja|sanjaku obi}} originates from a scarf of the same length, which was folded and used as a sash. A {{transliteration|ja|sanjaku obi}} typically is shaped like a {{transliteration|ja|kaku obi}}, narrow and with short stitches. It is usually made from soft cotton-like cloth. Because of its shortness, the {{transliteration|ja|sanjaku obi}} is tied in the {{transliteration|ja|koma musubi}} style, which is much like a square knot.
• {{Nihongo||しごき帯|Shigoki obi}} were previously worn to prevent kimono from trailing along the floor when walking outside, used to tie up the excess length when going out; over time, this style of wear became the standard for wearing kimono both inside and outside, evolving into the {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} hip fold worn today. Nowadays the {{transliteration|ja|shigoki obi}}'s only function is decorative. It is part of a 7-year-old girl's outfit for celebration of Shichi-Go-San.{{cite web |url=http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/753onna7.html |script-title=ja:七五三の着付け、女の子七歳編 |author=Toma-san |access-date=2009-03-06 |language=ja |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081210025800/http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/753onna7.html |archive-date=2008-12-10 |url-status=dead }}
• {{transliteration|ja|Tsuke obi}} (pre-tied {{transliteration|ja|obi}}) are popular as children's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} because of their ease of use. There are even formal {{transliteration|ja|tsuke obi}} available for children. These {{transliteration|ja|obi}} correspond to {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} on the formality scale.

{{main|Obi (martial arts)}}

File:Obi-gokyū.jpg {{transliteration|ja|kyū}} (levels) from 9th to 1st.]]

Many Japanese martial arts feature an {{transliteration|ja|obi}} as part of their uniform. These {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are often made of thick cotton and are about {{convert|5|cm|in}} wide. The martial arts {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are most often worn in the {{transliteration|ja|koma musubi}} style; in practice where the {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} is worn, the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is tied in other ways.

In many martial arts the colour of the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} signifies the wearer's skill level. Usually the colours start from the beginner's white and end in the advanced black, or masters' red and white. When the exercise outfit includes a {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}, the colour of the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} has no significance.

The knot tied with the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is known as the {{nihongo3|"knot"|結び/むすび|musubi}}. Though {{transliteration|ja|obi}} functioned to hold the kimono closed for many centuries, beginning in the Edo period, the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} became too wide and/or too stiff to function effectively in this manner. In the modern day, a number of ties and accessories are used to keep the kimono in place, with the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} functioning in a more decorative capacity.

Though most styles of {{transliteration|ja|obi musubi}} can be tied by oneself, some varieties of formal women's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} can be difficult to tie successfully without the assistance of others.

There are hundreds of decorative knots, particularly for women, often named for their resemblance to flowers, animals and birds. {{transliteration|ja|Obi}} knots follow the same rough conventions of style and suitability as kimono do, with the more complex and fanciful knots reserved for younger women on festive occasions, and knots with a plainer appearance being mostly worn by older women; however, some knots, such as the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}}, have become the standard knot for women of all ages, excluding young girls.

In earlier days, the knots were believed to banish malicious spirits. Many knots have a name with an auspicious double meaning.

• {{nihongo3|"morning glory knot"|朝顔結び/あさがおむすび|Asagao musubi}} is a knot resembling the Japanese morning glory, suitable to be worn with {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}. The knot requires a very long {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, so it can be usually only be made for little girls.{{cite web |url=http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/yukata-obi.html |script-title=ja:浴衣の帯結びの色々 |author=Toma-san |access-date=2009-03-06 |language=ja |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081017084610/http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~tomasan/yukata-obi.html |archive-date=2008-10-17 |url-status=dead }}
• {{nihongo3|"iris knot"|菖蒲結び/あやめむすび|Ayame musubi}} is a very complex and decorative knot resembling an iris blossom. It is considered suitable for young women in informal situations and parties. Because of the complexity and conspicuousness of the knot, it should be worn with more subdued, preferably monochrome kimono and {{transliteration|ja|obi}}.{{cite web |url=http://www.jttk.zaq.ne.jp/sortie/Eayame.htm |title=Ayame Obi musubi |author=nickn. Sortie |access-date=2009-03-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100802022032/http://www.jttk.zaq.ne.jp/sortie/Eayame.htm |archive-date=2010-08-02 |url-status=dead }}
• {{nihongo3|"rose knot"|薔薇結び/バラむすび|Bara musubi}} is a contemporary knot suitable for young women, often worn to formal occasions at the lowest end of "formal". Because of the complexity of the knot, a multi-coloured or strongly patterned {{transliteration|ja|obi}} should not be used, and the patterns of the kimono should generally match the knot.{{cite web |url=http://www.jttk.zaq.ne.jp/sortie/Ebara.htm |title=Bara Obi musubi |author=nickn. Sortie |access-date=2009-03-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100802030952/http://www.jttk.zaq.ne.jp/sortie/Ebara.htm |archive-date=2010-08-02 |url-status=dead }}
• {{nihongo3|"butterfly knot"|蝶蝶結び/ちょうちょうむすび|Chōchō musubi}} is a version of the {{transliteration|ja|bunko musubi}}, tied using the {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}}. Most pre-tied {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} are tied with this knot.
• {{nihongo3|"dangling knot"|だらりむすび|Darari musubi}} is a knot worn only by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, dancers and kabuki actors. It is easily distinguishable by its long "tails" hanging in the back, which require an {{transliteration|ja|obi}} of up to {{convert|6|m|ft}} in length to achieve. In the past, courtesans and daughters of rich merchants would also have their {{transliteration|ja|obi}} tied in this manner. A half-length version of this knot, known as the {{transliteration|ja|handara musubi}} (lit., "half-dangling knot"), also exists, with apprentice geisha in some regions of Japan wearing this at various stages throughout their apprenticeship. The {{transliteration|ja|darari musubi}} is worn specifically by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} in Gion to perform the {{transliteration|ja|gion kouta}}, a well-known short song performed at geisha parties whose lyrics - "dear lovely Gion, the dangling {{transliteration|ja|obi}}" - explicitly mention it, referring to the classical image of Gion's {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}.
• {{nihongo3|"puffed sparrow knot"|ふくら雀結び|Fukura-suzume musubi}} is a decorative knot that resembles a sparrow with its wings spread, and is generally worn only by young women. It is suitable for formal occasions and is typically only worn with a {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}. Traditionally, the {{transliteration|ja|fukura-suzume musubi}} worn with a {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} indicated a woman was available for marriage.
• {{nihongo3|"clam's mouth knot"|貝の口むすび|Kai-no-kuchi musubi}} is a subdued {{transliteration|ja|obi}} which is commonly worn by men, and sometimes worn by older women for convenience, or by women in general as a style choice.
• {{nihongo3|"foal knot"|駒結び|Koma musubi}} is a square knot often used for tying {{transliteration|ja|haori}} and {{transliteration|ja|obijime}}. The short {{transliteration|ja|sanjaku obi}} worn by children is also tied in this way.
• {{nihongo3|"drum knot"|太鼓結び|Taiko musubi}} is the most commonly-worn knot worn by women in the present day. It is a knot with a simple, subdued appearance, and resembles a box with a short tail underneath. The {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}} is suitable for women of almost every age, mostly every kind of kimono, and is suitable for mostly all occasions; only {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} and mostly all {{transliteration|ja|yukata}} are considered unsuitable to be worn with the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}}. Though the knot is associated with the {{transliteration|ja|taiko}} drum, the knot was actually created to celebrate the opening of the Taikobashi bridge in Tokyo in 1823 by some geisha, a style which soon widely caught on.Dalby, pp. 337–348
• {{nihongo3|"two-layer drum knot"|二重太鼓結び|Nijūdaiko musubi}} is a version of the {{transliteration|ja|taiko musubi}}, tied with the formal {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi. Fukuro obi}} are longer than the {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}}, so the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} must be folded in two when tying the knot. The knot has an auspicious double meaning of "double joy".Yamanaka, pp. 66–70
• {{nihongo3|"standing arrow knot"|立て矢むすび|Tateya musubi}}Yamanaka, pp. 7-12, 29-30 is a knot resembling a large bow, and is one of the most simple knots worn with the {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}. According to {{transliteration|ja|kitsuke}} (kimono dressing) teacher Norio Yamanaka, it is the most suitable knot to be used with the {{transliteration|ja|honburisode}} - a {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} with full-length sleeves.
• {{nihongo3|"eagle plant knot"|鷲草結び|Washikusa musubi}} is a bow resembling a certain plant thought to look like an eagle taking flight.{{cite web |url=http://www.jttk.zaq.ne.jp/sortie/Ewashikusa.htm |title=Washikusa Obi musubi |author=nickn. Sortie |access-date=2009-03-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100803200713/http://www.jttk.zaq.ne.jp/sortie/Ewashikusa.htm |archive-date=2010-08-03 |url-status=dead}}

File:Butterfly musubi.png|alt=The back view of the {{transliteration|ja|chōchō musubi}}, which resembles a large bow tied at the top edge of the obi.|A {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} tied in the {{transliteration|ja|chōchō musubi}} style, worn with a {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}

File:Kimono-obicopy der.png|alt=A young woman wearing a dark blue {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}; her {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, which is gold and covered in roundels, is tied like a bow with an oversized middle portion, with two small 'wings' poking out of each side at the top.|A {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}} tied in the {{transliteration|ja|fukura-suzume}} style, worn with a {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}

File:Kimono-obi-3.jpg| A complex {{transliteration|ja|obi}} knot worn as part of a wedding outfit

File:Yukata-obi.jpg|Tying a {{transliteration|ja|hanhaba obi}} around a {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}

File:geisha-obi.jpg|A {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} in Kyoto wearing an {{transliteration|ja|obi}} tied in the {{transliteration|ja|darari}} style

File:Washikusa I-002.png|The {{transliteration|ja|washikusa musubi}}

• {{annotated link|Cummerbund}}
• {{annotated link|Kimono}}
• {{annotated link|Obi (publishing)}}
• {{annotated link|Traditional Japanese clothing}}
• Japanese craft

{{Reflist}}

• {{Cite book |author=Bennett, Gary |year=1997 |title=Aikido techniques & tactics |publisher=Human Kinetics Publisher |isbn=0-88011-598-X |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/aikidotechniques0000benn }}
• {{Cite book |author=Dalby, Liza |year=2001 |title=Kimono, Fashioning Culture |publisher=Vintage |isbn=0-09-942899-7}}
• {{Cite book |author1=Fält, Olavi K. |author2=Nieminen, Kai |author3=Tuovinen, Anna |author4=Vesterinen, Ilmari |year=2006 |title=Japanin kulttuuri |publisher=Otava |isbn=951-1-12746-2 |language= fi }}
• {{Cite book |author=Goodman, Fay |year=1998 |title=The Ultimate Book of Martial Arts |publisher=Lorenz Books |isbn=1-85967-778-9}}
• {{Cite book |author=Yamanaka, Norio |year=1986 |title=The Book of Kimono |publisher=Kondansha International |isbn=0-87011-785-8}}

• {{Commons category inline|Obi}}

{{Folk costume}}

{{Japanese clothing}}

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Obi}}

Category:Fashion accessories

Category:History of Asian clothing

Category:Japanese sashes

Category:Japanese words and phrases