pheran

Pheran is a corruption of the Persian word 'perahan' which means cloak.{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2DZuAAAAMAAJ&q=pheran+pairahan |title=Glimpses of Kashmir, Jammu, and Ladakh: History and Culture : Prof. P.N. Pushp Memorial Volume |date=2000 |publisher=Gyan Sagar Publications |isbn=978-81-7685-070-4 |language=en}} The outfit has been in vogue in Kashmir since before the 15th century.{{cite book | title =Dewan, Parvez (2004) Parvéz Dewân's Jammû, Kashmîr, and Ladâkh: Kashmîr | url =https://books.google.com/books?id=LCZuAAAAMAAJ&q=pheran | isbn = 9788170491798| last1 = Dewan| first1 = Parvez| year = 2004| publisher=Manas Publications }}

Before the advent of Islamic influence, the people of Kashmir used to wear a loose gown-type leather doublet instead of pheran, as recorded by Hiuen-Tsang.{{Cite book |last=Hāṇḍā |first=Omacanda |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JFPnh9B5zncC&dq=kashmiri+leather+jacket+pheran&pg=PA198 |title=Textiles, Costumes, and Ornaments of the Western Himalaya |date=1998 |publisher=Indus Publishing |isbn=978-81-7387-076-7 |language=en}}

According to some sources, the pheran was introduced by Mughal emperor Akbar when he conquered the valley in 1586.{{Cite web|url=https://www.outlookindia.com/blog/story/india-news-the-untold-story-of-kashmiri-pheran-and-its-place-in-kashmirs-history/4017|title=The Untold Story Of Kashmiri Pheran And Its Place In Kashmir's History|website=www.outlookindia.com/|access-date=2019-12-06}} However, according to historian Prithivi Nath Kaul Bamzai, with the arrival of Sufi saints and Muslim theologians from Persia and Central Asia, Kashmiris adopted their long robes and round turbans. The long robe, in particular, is considered the precursor to the Pheran, which is now the traditional attire of Kashmiris.{{Cite book |last=Bamzai |first=Prithivi Nath Kaul |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mzvRAAAAMAAJ&q=pheran+history+kashmir |title=A History of Kashmir: Political, Social, Cultural, from the Earliest Times to the Present Day |date=1962 |publisher=Metropolitan Book Company |language=en}}

File:Pandit woman 1922 vintage by Vishwanath.jpg woman, 1922]]

Taranga

Hindu women use a headwear called "taranga" ({{IPA|ks|tarɨnɡɨ}}), which is a headdress which becomes smaller down at back, towards the heels. It is popular in some areas of Kashmir.

Kasaba

Kashmiri Muslim women use a headwear known as the "kasaba" ({{IPA|ks|qasaːbɨ}}). The kasaba is padded by means of a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A veil made of pashmina or Silk is pinned to the top of the kasaba that descends towards the back of the neck. There are two types of kasaba: "Thoud kasaba" and "Bonn kasaba". Thoud kasaba (high kasaba) sits on the head like a crown, worn only by married women belonging to elite families. House of khwajawal in Naid kadal made the most beautiful kasabas.{{Cite web|date=2015-03-14|title=Of Dastar and Kasaba|url=https://www.greaterkashmir.com/news/opinion/of-dastar-and-kasaba/|access-date=2020-12-03|website=Greater Kashmir|language=en-US}} Bonn kasaba (low kasaba) sits on head like a bandana, worn by commoners and tribal women. The most magnificent and expensive kasabas were made of kashmiri kundan work known as "Jarrah": precious gem stones, usually rubies, spinels and emerald are set in 24 carat gold to make various kundan ornaments (Tikka, Taweez, Hung taweez, Bal hor, kan vass) pinned to the red cap having intricate Kashmiri "Tilla work" (silver thread work). Kundan kasaba was worn only by royals.{{Cite web|date=2019-01-22|title=Kashmir Lost, the Last Professional Kundangar|url=https://kashmirlife.net/kashmirs-lost-the-last-professional-kundangar-199418/|access-date=2020-12-03|website=Kashmir Life|language=en-GB}} Kundan kasaba were only made by house of Kundanghar in Khwaja bazar.

File:House_of_khwajawal.jpg

The pheran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves, which tend to be wide,{{cite book | title =Forster, George (1808) A Journey from Bengal to England, Through the Northern Part of India, Kashmire, Afghanistan, and Persia, and Into Russia, by the Caspian-Sea, Volume 2 | url =https://books.google.com/books?id=SNcMAAAAIAAJ&q=shirt&pg=PA87 | last1 = Forster| first1 = George| year = 1808}} made of either wool or jamewar, which is a mixture of wool and cotton, with no side slits. A pheran made of wool is called a 'loch'.{{cite book | title =The Phoenix, Volume 3 (1883) | year = 1873| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=aTBBAQAAMAAJ&q=pheran&pg=PA83 }} Female pheran dresses are designed with colorful flowerlike designed elements and styles. Male pheran dresses are quite simple, without any colourful design.

The traditional pheran falls to the feet like a gown.{{cite book | title =Jain, Simmi (2003) Encyclopaedia of Indian Women Through the Ages: The middle ages | url =https://books.google.com/books?id=ps2oqipIN7cC&q=kashmiri+suthan&pg=PA27 | isbn = 9788178351735| last1 = Jain| first1 = Simmi| year = 2003| publisher=Gyan Publishing House }} This style was universally worn by the Kashmiri Hindu and Kashmiri Muslim communities into the later 19th century C.E.{{cite book | title =Letters from India and Kashmir (1874) Muslim women are shown as recent as 1870 wearing the long Pheran | year = 1874| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=1s5AAAAAIAAJ&q=letters+from+india+and+kashmir }} However, a modern version worn by Muslims

is knee-length, loose and stitched on the front side ane finishes, while Hindus often still wear their pherans long, extending down the legs. Ankle length Pherans{{cite web|url=https://sites.google.com/site/kazinag/how--kashmiris-keep-themselves-hot-during-winter |title=How Kashmiris keep themselves warm during winter - Kazinag |access-date=2014-07-31}} are tied at the waist.[https://books.google.com/books?id=UYFDAQAAIAAJ&q=pheran Kashmir, Volumes 2-3 (1952)] Intricate embroideries or flower styles are a popular on Kashmiri ladies pherans. The embroideries or flower designs are made of thin metal threads; this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language.

Over time, the art of embellishing pherans has evolved, with a variety of embroidery styles enhancing their elegance. Some of the most prominent embroidery types found on modern pherans include:{{Cite web |date=2024-08-11 |title=History and Cultural Significance of Kashmiri Pherans {{!}} Traditional Kashmiri Clothing |url=https://www.kashmiripheran.com/blogs/news/the-timeless-elegance-of-kashmiri-pherans-a-journey-through-history-and-culture |access-date=2025-02-20 |website=Kashmiri Pheran |language=en}}

• Tilla embroidery – Traditional Kashmiri gold or silver threadwork, popular on festive and bridal pherans.
• Aari embroidery – Intricate chain-stitch embroidery, giving the pheran a refined, handcrafted look.
• Zari embroidery – A delicate and luxurious style using gold or silver threads, similar to Tilla but often more intricate.
• Sozni embroidery – A fine needlework technique, used mainly to enhance woolen pherans with artistic patterns.

With time, designers and artisans have introduced new styles, blending tradition with modern aesthetics, making the pheran a versatile outfit worn for both casual and festive occasions.

The poots ({{IPA|ks|poːt͡sʰ}}) is the same as the pheran but made of lighter material; it is worn beneath the pheran. It is generally used to protect the pheran from burns from the kangri. It also provides extra warmth during winters, double layer insulation from the cold winter days.

Traditionally, the pheran and poots were worn without a lower garment.Cultural Heritage of India- Kashmiri Pandit Contribution. The Publication of Kashmir Sabha, Calcutta (1999-2000) [http://koausa.org/vitasta/pdf/Vitasta1999-2000.pdf]Irby, Augustus Henry (1863) The diary of a hunter from the Punjab to the Karakorum mountains [https://books.google.com/books?id=0lMBAAAAQAAJ&q=dress&pg=PA327] Indeed, in neighbouring Hunza too, women did not wear pajamas until 1890 and in Nagar until 1925.Chohan, Amar Singh (1893) Historical Study of Society and Culture in Dardistan and Ladakh [https://books.google.com/books?id=-Q9uAAAAMAAJ&q=+++pyjamas] Since the latter part of the 19th century, loose suthans (shalwars) and churidar pajamas of the Punjab region became popular in Kashmir.Kumar, Raj (2006) Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. [https://books.google.com/books?id=f-1XyQ2eIG8C&dq=kashmiri+suthan&pg=PA200]Kapur, Manohar Lal (1992) Social and economic history of Jammu and Kashmir State, 1885-1925 A.D. [https://books.google.com/books?id=3ecbAAAAIAAJ&q=suthan] Accordingly, the suthan or churidar pajama can form part of the pheran ensemble but is not a must. The Kashmiri suthan is baggy and loose and is similar to the Dogri suthan worn in the Jammu region. Some versions are similar to the shalwars worn in Afghanistan. However, since the 1960s, the straight cut Punjabi salwar has become popular.India. Office of the Registrar General (1961) Census of India, 1961: Jammu and Kashmir [https://books.google.com/books?id=CNQcAQAAMAAJ&q=kashmiri+suthan][https://books.google.com/books?id=g-XfAAAAMAAJ&q=kashmir+punjabi+salwar Dorris Flynn (1986) Costumes of India]Shri Parmananda Research Institute, 1982 Glimpses of Kashmiri Culture, Volume 5 [https://books.google.com/books?id=UL4BAAAAMAAJ&q=kashmir+punjabi+salwar]

Modern trends saw a decline in the use of pherans in favour of the shalwar kameez.[https://books.google.com/books?id=Z4huAAAAMAAJ&q=pheran Dhar, Somnath (1999( Jammu and Kashmir] However, there has been a revival in recent years as pherans have become part of modern fashion,Piyali Bhattachary (14 April 2015)Khadi Couture: How to Wear Kashmiri Tweed Wall Street Journal [https://blogs.wsj.com/indiarealtime/2015/04/14/khadi-couture-how-to-wear-kashmiri-tweed/] and are worn by females of other areas of Kashmir as well.{{cite web|url=http://www.kashmirhub.com/kashmir-culture/clothing.html |title=Clothing in Kashmir |publisher=Kashmir Travel Information |access-date=2014-07-31}} Kashmiri men are also wearing the pheran as a fashionable outfit.Ishfaq-ul-Hassan (11 February 2015) DNA Real aping reel: Kashmir valley gripped by 'Haider' pheran fever [http://www.dnaindia.com/india/report-real-aping-reel-kashmir-valley-gripped-by-haider-pheran-fever-2059923] Combined with jeans, the pheran has made its way into the office world.Rashid, Toufiq (29 November 2014) Hindustan Times. Pheran making a political statement in Kashmir [https://web.archive.org/web/20141214142656/http://www.hindustantimes.com/india-news/pheran-making-a-political-statement-in-kashmir/article1-1291594.aspx] The modern pheran is not as wide and long(Hassan, Firdous (11 February 2015) The Kashmir Monitor. With e-commerce 'Pheran' goes global [http://kashmirmonitor.in/news-with-e-commerce-pheran-goes-global-79212.aspx] as the traditional ankle or knee-length version and sometimes has side slits. Fewer men are wearing the phiran with a shalwar.[http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000902/windows/main7.htm Medhora, Sarosh (2 September 2000) The Tribune. Focus on men’s formals] Modern pherans, known as Raglan Pherans (LARK) are a hybrid of western raglan coat and traditional wear.{{cite web|url=http://epaper.kashmiruzma.net/archives.aspx?editioncode=9 |title=Raglan PHERAN |publisher=Kashmir Uzma |access-date=2019-01-02}}

File:Pheran.jpg|A young Kashmiri man wearing Pheran somewhere in Chenab Valley's Doda district

File:Kashmiri Muslim women in traditional long Phiran 1870.jpg|Kashmiri Muslim women in traditional long pheran, 1870

File:039-HINDOO WOMEN FROM CASHMERE.jpg|1919 drawing of Kashmiri Pandit women wearing intricately decorated pherans

File:KashmirPundit1895BritishLibrary.jpg|Kashmiri Pandit men in Kashmir, 1895

File:Pherans.jpg|A young man wearing a fitted, fur-collared, fashionable Pheran in Chenab Valley's Bhaderwah

• Shalwar kameez
• Pulhoer
• Kashmiri people

{{notelist}}

{{wiktionary|pheran}}

{{Reflist}}

{{Clothing in South Asia}}

Category:Indian clothing

Category:Culture of Jammu and Kashmir

Category:Kashmir