sequin
{{short description|Small, disk shaped, typically shiny ornament}}
{{Other uses}}
File:Mineirinha Biju - paetê.jpg
A sequin ({{IPAc-en|'|s|iː|k|w|ɪ|n}} {{respell|SEE|kwin}}) is a small, typically shiny, generally disk-shaped ornament.
Sequins are also referred to as paillettes, spangles, or diamanté (also spelled diamante). Although the words sequins, paillettes, lentejuelas, and spangles can be used interchangeably, diamanté (literally "set with diamonds") is both an adjective and a plural-only noun, which specifically refers to diamond-shaped sequins and can also be used to mean "artificial diamonds", which serve the same purpose as sequins.
In costuming, sequins have a center hole, while spangles have the hole located at the top. Paillettes are typically very large and flat. Sequins may be stitched flat to the fabric, so they do not move, and are less likely to fall off; or they may be stitched at only one point, so they dangle and move easily, catching more light. Some sequins are made with multiple facets, to increase their reflective ability, while others are stamped out with lobes resembling flower petals.
Etymology
The name sequin originates from the Venetian colloquial noun {{lang|vec|zechin}} ({{IPA|vec|(d)zeˈkiŋ|lang}}), meaning a Venetian ducat coin, rendered into French as {{lang|fr|sequin}} ({{IPA|fr|səkɛ̃|lang}}). The ducat stopped being minted after the Napoleonic invasion of Italy, and the name sequin was falling out of use in its original sense. It was then that the name was taken up in France to designate what it means today, as 19th century sequins were made of shiny metal.
History
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File:Evening ensemble MET 41.898a-b front CP4.jpg
Historically across many parts of the world, attaching metal coins and ornaments to clothes was done to display wealth or status or to keep the item tightly secured.{{Cite web |last=Dukes |first=Tanya |date=4 December 2020 |title=An Abbreviated History of the Sequin's Long, Colorful Life |url=https://news.yahoo.com/abbreviated-history-sequin-long-colorful-223200964.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211214193218/https://news.yahoo.com/abbreviated-history-sequin-long-colorful-223200964.html |archive-date=14 December 2021 |access-date=2021-12-14 |website=O |language=en-US |via=Yahoo News}}
Sequins made with nautilus shell were found dating back 12,000 years in Indonesia.{{Cite web |last=Rosengreen |first=Carley |date=2023-08-16 |title=Sea sequin 'bling' links Indonesian islands' ancient communities |url=https://news.griffith.edu.au/2023/08/16/sea-sequin-bling-links-indonesian-islands-ancient-communities/ |access-date=2024-04-17 |website=news.griffith.edu.au |language=en-EN}}{{Cite journal |last1=Langley |first1=Michelle C. |last2=Kealy |first2=Shimona |last3=Mahirta |last4=O'Connor |first4=Sue |date=2023 |title=Sequins from the sea: Nautilus shell bead technology at Makpan, Alor Island, Indonesia |journal=Antiquity |language=en |volume=97 |issue=394 |pages=810–828 |doi=10.15184/aqy.2023.97 |issn=0003-598X|doi-access=free }} Evidence exists that gold sequins were being used as decoration on clothing or paraphernalia in the Indus Valley as early as 2500 BC, during the Kot Diji phase.{{cite web |url=https://www.harappa.com/indus5/32.html |title=Kot Diji phase gold sequins |year=2005 |work=Harappa.com |access-date=1 January 2018 |archive-date=2 January 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180102013149/https://www.harappa.com/indus5/32.html |url-status=live }} Solid gold sequins sewn into royal garments were found inside the tomb of Tutankhamun.{{Cite web |last=Spivack |first=Emily |date=28 December 2012 |title=A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop |url=https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210306114225/https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ |archive-date=6 March 2021 |access-date=2021-03-22 |website=Smithsonian |language=en}}
For the coronation of Henry VII of England in 1485, sequins called "spangles" and "oylets" of silver and gilt were supplied by London goldsmiths.William Campbell, Materials for a History of the Reign of Henry VII, 2 (London, 1877), p. 16. In June 1502, Elizabeth of York paid a coppersmith for "spangelles, settes, square pieces, stars, drops, and points" imitating silver and gold for costumes for "disguysings" at the Tudor court.Nicholas Harris Nicolas, Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York: Wardrobe Accounts of Edward the Fourth (London: Pickering, 1830), p. 21. Some sequins used for masque costume in the Tudor and Stuart period were known as "Oes".M. Channing Linthicum, Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare and his Contemporaries (Oxford, 1936), pp. 152-3.
By the 17th century, the modern sequin consisting of a small thin metal disk, known as spangle, appeared in Europe. These were made by punching out the desired shape from a thin metal sheet.{{Cite web |title=Spangles |url=https://historicjamestowne.org/collections/artifacts/spangles/#:~:text=Like%20today's%20sequins,%2017th-century,,%20gold,%20and%20copper%20alloy. |access-date=2024-09-30 |website=Historic Jamestowne |language=en-US}} Spangles (mainly made out of reflective bits of metals) sewn into jackets, bonnets, and dresses were popular among the european nobility and upper class from the 17th to 19th centuries.
During the Edwardian era, the usage of spangles became increasingly popular and haute-couture designers like Callot Soeurs designed evening dresses fully covered in sequins, often times using sequins of different colors to form intricate patterns.{{Cite web |date=2012-04-28 |title=V119: Are Sequins Period Accurate? |url=https://blog.americanduchess.com/2012/04/v119-are-sequins-period-accurate.html |access-date=2024-09-30 |website=American Duchess Blog |language=en-US}}
During the 1920s, after the discovery of the Tomb of Tutankhamun, sequins witnessed renewed popularity as a consequence of Egyptomania.{{Cite web |last=Marshall |first=Shonagh |date=2016-06-08 |title=A Brief History of the Sequin |url=https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8763/a-brief-history-of-the-sequin |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200811220134/https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8763/a-brief-history-of-the-sequin |archive-date=11 August 2020 |access-date=2021-03-22 |website=AnOther |language=en}} The usage of sequins (typically made out of metal) was widely popularized as a fashion statement by flapper girls during this period.{{Cite news |last=Leaper |first=Caroline |date=2017-11-13 |title=The surprising history of sequins- a symbol of decadent dressing since 1341 BC |language=en-GB |work=The Telegraph |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/surprising-history-sequins-symbol-decadent-dressing-since-1341/ |access-date=2021-03-22 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220515201244/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/surprising-history-sequins-symbol-decadent-dressing-since-1341/ |archive-date=15 May 2022 |issn=0307-1235}}
In the 1930s, lightweight electroplated gelatin sequins were produced, which were significantly less heavy than their metal counterparts. However, the gelatin sequins would melt if they got wet or too warm. Algy Trimmings Co. (an apparel manufacturing company), working with Kodak, produced clear plastic sequins, although it often suffered from brittleness.{{Cite web |last=Lasane |first=Andrew |date=2016-08-16 |title=5 Sparkling Facts About Sequins |url=https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/84561/5-sparkling-facts-about-sequins |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210420171554/https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/84561/5-sparkling-facts-about-sequins |archive-date=20 April 2021 |access-date=2021-03-22 |website=Mental Floss |language=en}} Polyester film was later used to surround the plastic sequin to safely wash it. Eventually, vinyl plastic mostly replaced film and clear plastic because of its durability and cost effectiveness.
In the late 1960s, sequins began to be widely used by popular musicians such as The Supremes. Sequins continued to be popular into the 1970s and early 1980s.
See also
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
- {{Commons category inline|Sequins}}
- {{Wiktionary inline}}
{{beadwork}}