:en:Peter Boardman

Boardman was born in Stockport, Cheshire, England, the youngest son of Alan Howe Boardman (1920–1979) and Dorothy Boardman (1923–2007). He attended Stockport Grammar School from 1956 to 1969, going on school trips to Corsica in 1964 and 1965, and to the Swabian Alps in 1966. Boardman first began climbing with school friends at Windgather Rocks in the Peak District National Park. After joining the Mynydd Climbing Club in 1966, Boardman's climbing progressed quickly and he went on to climb in the Pennine Alps in 1968.{{cite web|last=Clarke|first=Charles|title=Peter Boardman 1950–82|url=http://www.boardmantasker.com/site/boardman.pdf|accessdate=24 March 2012|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20130527205209/http://www.boardmantasker.com/site/boardman.pdf|archivedate=27 May 2013|df=dmy-all}}Boardman, Peter (1981) "1956–69: Thirteen years of SGS rule" (unpublished notes) [http://www.stockportgrammar.co.uk/2012/09/pete-boardman-memorial-calendar-and-stockport-grammar-memories/ Pete Boardman memorial calendar and Stockport Grammar memories] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924110541/http://www.stockportgrammar.co.uk/2012/09/pete-boardman-memorial-calendar-and-stockport-grammar-memories/ |date=24 September 2015 }}. Accessed 10 November 2012

From 1969 to 1972, Boardman studied English at the University of Nottingham where he was President of the Mountaineering Club from 1971 to 1972. While at university Boardman climbed extensively in Britain and Europe and embarked on his first expedition, to Afghanistan, in 1972.For details of Boardman's climbing activities while at Nottingham, see Nottingham University Mountaineering Club Journal [http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal6970.pdf 1969–70]; {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070710142128/http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal6970.pdf |date=10 July 2007 }} [http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7071.pdf 1970–71]; {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070710151748/http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7071.pdf |date=10 July 2007 }} and [http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7173.pdf 1971–73.] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070710150601/http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7173.pdf |date=10 July 2007 }} Retrieved 24 March 2012. After Nottingham, Boardman obtained a Postgraduate Certificate in Education (English and outdoor activities) from the University College of North Wales in 1973.{{cite web|last=Bermúdez|first=José Luis|title=Boardman, Peter David (1950–1982)|url=http://www.oxforddnb.com/templates/article.jsp?articleid=62490&back=|work=first published 2004; online edn, May 2006, 1311 words, with portrait illustration|publisher=Oxford Dictionary of National Biography|accessdate=26 September 2012}}

Boardman married Hilary Collins in August 1980. They first met in 1974 when Hilary attended a course at Glenmore Lodge instructed by Boardman. After the Changabang expedition in 1976 Hilary arranged for Boardman to give a slide show at Belper High School where she was the teacher responsible for outdoor activities. Soon after they began climbing together in Derbyshire and Scotland. Hilary shared Boardman's passion for mountains and they climbed together on Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya and Carstensz Pyramid. Hilary left Britain to take up a teaching position in Switzerland where she was later joined by Boardman when he took over as Director of the International School of Mountaineering in Leysin.Boardman, Peter (1982) Sacred Summits London: Hodder and Stoughton. pp17-18.

With his postgraduate qualification, and climbing and mountaineering experience, Boardman was set on the path to becoming a professional mountaineer.{{cite journal|last=Mansfield|first=Roger|title=Professionalism – A Matter of Compromise|journal=Nottingham University Mountaineering Club Journal|year=1970–71|pages=34–41|url=http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7071.pdf|accessdate=24 March 2012|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070710151748/http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7071.pdf|archivedate=10 July 2007|df=dmy-all}} In 1973, he became an instructor at Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore. He moved on to become the National Officer at the British Mountaineering Council in 1975.{{cite journal|journal=Climber and Rambler|date=January 1975|page=4}} In 1978 Boardman took over as Director of the International School of Mountaineering in Leysin, Switzerland, after Dougal Haston's death, a position he held until his own death in 1982.{{cite web|last=International School of Mountaineering|title=ISM Historical|url=http://www.alpin-ism.com/ismhistorical.cfm|accessdate=24 March 2012|archive-date=21 February 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140221055351/http://www.alpin-ism.com/ismhistorical.cfm|url-status=dead}}{{cite journal|last=Cooper|first=Keith|title=Leysin's new boss|journal=Climber and Rambler|date=May 1978|page=18}}

Other positions and qualifications held by Boardman include:

• Mountain Guide Carnet – September 1977.{{cite web|last=Clarke|first=Charles|title=Peter Boardman 1950–82|url=http://www.boardmantasker.com/site/boardman.pdf|accessdate=24 March 2012|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20130527205209/http://www.boardmantasker.com/site/boardman.pdf|archivedate=27 May 2013|df=dmy-all}}
• Vice-president, British Mountaineering Council. Elected in 1979.{{cite journal|last=Gray|first=Dennis|title=BMC News|journal=Climber and Rambler|date=June 1979|page=21}}
• President, Association of British Mountain Guides. Elected in 1979.{{cite journal|title=Association of British Mountain Guides|journal=Climber and Rambler|date=October 1979|page=19}}

Boardman climbed extensively in Europe throughout his career. His early climbs included:

• 1970 Petit Dru, SW PillarWith Chris Fitzhugh. See [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%20190-204%20Europe.pdf "Climbs and regional notes"], Alpine Journal 1971. p194.
• 1971 First British ascents of the North Face Direct of the Olan, WNW face of Pic Sans Nom and SW face of Aiguille de Sialouze.With Chris Fitzhugh. See [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1972_files/AJ%201972%20235-242%20Taylor%20Alps.pdf "Notes 1971 The Alps"] Alpine Journal 1972, pp235-236. Boardman also climbed the north face of the Matterhorn, and met Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw for the first time on the North Spur of the Droites.Matterhorn climb with Martin Wragg. For both climbs see Peter Boardman (1978)The Shining Mountain London: Hodder. pp14-15.
• 1973 First British ascents of the North Face of the Nesthorn and the North Face Direct of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn.Both climbs with Bob Barton. For Nesthorn climb see [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1974_files/AJ%201974%20253-254%20Notes%20Taylor%20Europe.pdf "Notes 1973 Europe"] Alpine Journal 1974, p253. For Breithorn climb see B. Barton, [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1974_files/AJ%201974%2071-73%20Barton%20LBreithorn.pdf "Lauterbrunnen Breithorn – North face"] Alpine Journal 1974, pp71-73.

Boardman's first expedition outside Europe was with fellow members of the Nottingham University Mountaineering Club who drove overland to the Hindu Kush in Afghanistan in the summer of 1972. A training climb on the North Face of Koh-i-Khaaik (5,860m) turned into an epic when the climbers underestimated the difficulty of the Face, taking longer than planned to reach the summit and necessitating a 50-mile walk back to Base Camp.{{cite journal|last=Boardman|first=Peter|title=A Westerner's luxury|journal=The Listener|date=2 March 1978|pages=266–267}} Boardman wrote "A Westerner's luxury" about this particular climb as a script for the BBC television series "In the Light of Experience". The 15-minute segment screened on BBC2 in March 1978.[https://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/adamcurtis/entries/fc69b85a-c6b1-3363-baeb-24418e99b683 "Kabul:City Number One"], bbc.co.uk, 18 September 2009. (Video of "A Westerner's luxury retrieved from BBC archive by documentary-maker Adam Curtis.) Their main objective, the unclimbed North Face of Koh-i-Mondi (6,234m), was climbed relatively uneventfully. In all, expedition members climbed five new peaks and five new routes.Wragg, Martin "Realisation of a Dream", [http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7173.pdf Nottingham University Mountaineering Club Journal, 1971–73] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070710150601/http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal7173.pdf |date=10 July 2007 }}, pp5-8.Boardman, Peter (1974) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1974_files/AJ%201974%20110-114%20Boardman%20HKush.pdf "Hindu Kush – Alpine Style"], Alpine Journal 1974, pp110-114.Boardman, Peter "Long Necks in the Hindu Kush", Mountain No. 36, June 1974, pp15-21.

In May 1974, Boardman and Roger O'Donovan made the first ascent via the South Face, and the second ascent overall, of Mount Dan Beard (3,127m) in the Alaska Range.O'Donovan, Roger [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1975_files/AJ%201975%2063-66%20ODonovan%20Beard.pdf "The South Face of Mount Dan Beard"] Alpine Journal 1975, pp63-66.[http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Alaska-USA-Mount-Dan-Beard-Southwest-Route Mount Dan Beard]. Retrieved 26 March 2012. An attempt on Denali was abandoned when O'Donovan became ill.Boardman, Peter (1978)The Shining Mountain London, Hodder and Stoughton. p23

When Chris Bonington was recruiting for the large, siege-style expedition to climb the South West Face of Everest, Boardman was recommended by Paul Braithwaite as a talented climber who would be compatible with other team members. The expedition was successful in placing the first two Britons, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston, on the summit on 24 September 1975. Boardman and Pertemba, the expedition's head Sirdar, reached the summit on 26 September. On their descent, they met Mick Burke a short distance below the summit and still ascending. They waited for him at the South Summit in deteriorating weather, but Burke was never seen alive again.Boardman, Peter & Richards, Ronnie (1976) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1976_files/AJ%201976%203-14%20Boardman%20Everest.pdf "British Everest expedition SW face 1975"] Alpine Journal 1976, pp3-15.Bonington, Chris (1976) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1976/boning_everest1976_345-358.pdf "Everest Southwest Face"] American Alpine Journal, 1976, pp345-357.Bonington, Chris (1976) Everest the Hard Way, Hodder and Stoughton, London.Boardman, Peter (1978) "Everest is Not a Private Affair" in Ken Wilson (ed)(1978) Games Climbers Play, Diadem Books, London.Documentary film: [https://web.archive.org/web/20090207144037/http://ftvdb.bfi.org.uk/sift/title/103249 Everest the Hard Way]

Boardman and Joe Tasker, on their first expedition together, made the first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6,864m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India. The climb took 25 days during September and October 1976.Tasker, Joe "Changabang, West Wall" in [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1977/asia1977_236-284.pdf "Climbs and Expeditions"] American Alpine Journal 1977, pp248-249.Tasker, Joe (1977) "Changabang West Wall" Climber and Rambler January 1977, pp15-21.Boardman, Peter (1977) "Changabang Commentary" Mountain No. 55, May/June 1977, pp18-27. It was considered "probably the most outstanding lightweight Himalayan climb so far achieved".[http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1977_files/AJ%201977%20236-241%20Connor%20Asia.pdf "Notes – Asia"] Alpine Journal 1977, p239. Changabang had been Joe Tasker's idea; he had seen it the previous year while on Dunagiri with Dick Renshaw. As Renshaw was recovering from frostbite Tasker had asked Boardman if he was interested in a new route on Changabang. Boardman had agreed readily with Tasker's proposal: "This climb would be all that I wanted. Something that would be totally committing, that would bring my self-respect into line with the public recognition I had received for Everest."Boardman, Peter (1978)The Shining Mountain London, Hodder and Stoughton. p17.Tasker, Joe (1982) Chap. 4 "Figures on a Screen: Changabang" in Savage Arena London, Methuen.

Boardman was invited by Chris Bonington to join an expedition to K2 (8,611m) in 1978. The team was composed of climbers Paul Braithwaite, Nick Estcourt, Doug Scott and Joe Tasker, as well as a doctor, Jim Duff, and cameraman Tony Riley. At the time, K2 had been climbed successfully only twice and the West Ridge not at all.In September 1978, an American team reached the summit via a different route. See Reichardt, Louis (1979) "K2: The End of a 40-Year American Quest". American Alpine Journal 1979, pp1–18. Boardman and Tasker reached a height of approximately 6,700m, but the expedition was abandoned when Estcourt was killed in an avalanche.Bonington, Chris (1979) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1979/boning_k2_1979_19-23.pdf#search=%22bonington%22 "British K2 Expedition"], American Alpine Journal 1979, pp19-23.Scott, Doug (1992) Himalayan Climber London, Diadem. p122.Tasker, Joe (1982) Savage Arena London, Methuen. pp127-158.Documentary film: [https://web.archive.org/web/20090208123933/http://ftvdb.bfi.org.uk/sift/title/108768 K2: The Savage Mountain]

In December 1978 Boardman and Hilary Collins made the first ascent of the South Face of Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) in the Indonesian province of Papua on the island of New Guinea. In early January 1979 they climbed the nearby peak Dugundugu and, with two French climbers, traversed the three summits of Ngga Pulu.Boardman, Peter (1982) Sacred Summits London, Hodder and Stoughton.Collins, Hilary [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1980_files/AJ%201980%20118-121%20Collins%20Irian%20Jaya.pdf The Snow Mountains of Irian Jaya], Alpine Journal 1980, pp118-121

On 16 May 1979 Boardman, together with Doug Scott and Joe Tasker, reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586m) via the North Ridge. This was the third ascent overall and the first via this route. Two earlier attempts by the team (which included French mountaineer Georges Bettembourg) were thwarted by storms high on the mountain.Boardman, Peter (1979) "No More Himalayan Heroes", Climber and Rambler November 1979. pp34-41Boardman, Peter (1979) "The Untrodden Peak" Observer Magazine, 11 November 1979.Boardman, Peter (1982) Sacred Summits London: Hodder and Stoughton.Scott, Doug (1980) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1980/437_scott_kangchenjunga_aaj1980.pdf#search=%22kangchenjunga%20from%20the%20north%22 "Kangchenjunga from the North"], American Alpine Journal 1980, pp437-444.Scott, Doug (1992) Himalayan Climber London: Diadem Books. pp92-103.Tasker, Joe (1980) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1980_files/AJ%201980%2049-58%20Tasker%20Kangch.pdf "Kangchenjunga North Ridge 1979"], Alpine Journal, 1980. pp 49–58.Tasker, Joe (1982) Savage Arena London: Methuen. pp 159–213.Bettembourg, Georges (with Michael Brame) (1981) The White Death Seattle: Reynard House. pp103-177.

Boardman led an Anglo-Nepalese expedition to make the first ascent of the southern summit of Gauri Sankar, a twin-peaked mountain in Nepal. The team composed of Boardman, Pemba Lama, Tim Leach and Guy Neithardt reached the South Summit (7,010m) on 9 November 1979 via the West Ridge. Fellow expedition member John Barry, who had been injured in a fall, waited at a lower camp.Boardman, Peter (1980) "Gauri Sankar Report", Climber and Rambler, April 1980. pp40-42.Boardman, Peter (1980) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1980/616_nepal_2_aaj1980.pdf#search=%22gaurishankar%20south%20summit%22 "Gaurishankar, South Summit"], American Alpine Journal, 1980. pp616-618.Boardman, Peter (1982) Sacred Summits London: Hodder and Stoughton.Barry, John (1981) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1981_files/AJ%201981%2039-47%20Barry%20Gauri%20Sankar.pdf "Come on lads: it's no worse than the Midi-Plan"], Alpine Journal, 1981. pp39-47.

Immediately after the 1978 K2 expedition, Boardman and Tasker had applied for a permit for another attempt on the mountain. In May 1980 they returned to the West Ridge with Dick Renshaw and Doug Scott. Their route avoided the avalanche-prone slope of 1978, but proved too difficult and the team, now minus Scott, turned their attention to the Abruzzi Spur, the route taken by the first ascensionists. On their second attempt on this route, they reached a height of 8,077m but their tent was overwhelmed by an avalanche in the middle of the night leading to a lengthy and precarious retreat off the mountain. A third and final attempt was abandoned due to storms on the mountain.Boardman, Peter (1981) "No Easy Way Up: Fight for Life on the Savage Mountain K2" Observer Magazine 15 February 1981.Boardman, Peter (1981) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1981/286_pakistan_aaj1981.pdf#search=%22boardman%20k2%20west%20ridge%22 "K2, West Ridge and Abruzzi Spur Attempts"], American Alpine Journal 1981, pp286-289.Tasker, Joe (1982) Savage Arena London: Methuen.

Boardman was part of the British team that made the first ascent of Kongur (7,719m),This is the height used in accounts by expedition members. Other authorities give the elevation as 7,649m. See, for instance [http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/WorldTop50.html Peaklist.org.] Retrieved 24 September 2012. in China. The climbing team, consisting of Boardman, Chris Bonington, Al Rouse and Joe Tasker, was supplemented by cameraman, Jim Curran, and a medical team carrying out research on the effects of altitude on expedition members. The ascent was made alpine style via the southwest rib with the summit reached on the evening of 12 July 1981.Bonington, Chris (1982) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1982/282_china_ussr_irian_aaj1982.pdf#search=%22kongur%20sinkiang%20bonington%22 "Kongur, Sinkiang"], American Alpine Journal 1982. pp288-293.Bonington, Chris (1982) Kongur London: Hodder and Stoughton.Boardman, Peter (1981) "Mount Kongur" Observer Magazine 15 November 1981.Curran, Jim (1991) Suspended Sentences: From the Life of a Climbing Cameraman London: Hodder and Stoughton.Rouse, Al (1981) "The Ascent of Mount Kongur" Climber and Rambler December 1981. pp28-30.Documentary film: [https://archive.today/20121224004754/http://ftvdb.bfi.org.uk/sift/title/257434 Kongur]

British mountaineers had last visited the north side of Everest in the 1930s. Permission for the 1982 expedition was obtained after the Chinese government began opening up mountains to foreign expeditions. The North East Ridge was "an obvious choice [...] elegant, unknown and looked, from the few photographs we had, difficult but possible."Bonington, Chris and Clarke, Charles (1983) Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge London: Hodder and Stoughton. p10. The North East Ridge rises two miles from the Raphu La (6,510m) to the North East Shoulder (8,393m) and the junction with the North Ridge. From there the summit is almost another mile away. The crux of the North East Ridge is a series of pinnacles high on the ridge before the junction with the North Ridge.History and description of ridge taken from Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge. See also photo of upper part of North East Ridge at [http://www.summitpost.org/mt-everest-view-from-the-north/778742 Summitpost.org]; and maps of Everest at [http://www.codex99.com/cartography/48.html Codex99.com].

The expedition consisted of Boardman, Chris Bonington, Dick Renshaw and Joe Tasker, supported by expedition doctor Charles Clarke and Adrian Gordon, and Chinese Base Camp staff. Tasker had responsibility for filming the expedition documentary.Documentary film: [https://web.archive.org/web/20090207144119/http://ftvdb.bfi.org.uk/sift/title/200683 Everest the Last Unclimbed Ridge] The expedition arrived at Base Camp on 16 March 1982 and began acclimatisation forays and establishment of camps further up the Rongbuk glacier. By April the team had begun climbing on the Ridge, establishing snow caves at 6,850m and 7,256m. In early May their third and highest snow cave was established at 7,850m. While climbing on the First Pinnacle above 8,000m Renshaw experienced a minor stroke. After suffering a second stroke at Base Camp, and following medical advice, Renshaw left to return home accompanied by Clarke as far as Chengdu. By this time Bonington realised that he would be unable to go much higher on the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and switched to a support role. He intended to climb to the North Col with Gordon and wait there while Boardman and Tasker made a final push to cross the Three Pinnacles. Boardman and Tasker left Advance Base Camp on 15 May and reached the second snow cave the same day. By 16 May they reached the third snow cave and made what was to be their last radio contact with Bonington that evening. On 17 May they moved slowly beyond the First Pinnacle and were last seen at 9:00pm at the foot of the Second Pinnacle at 8,250m having been climbing for 14 hours. By 21 May, with no sign of Boardman and Tasker for four days, Bonington and Clarke travelled up the Kangshung Valley to search the other side of the ridge for any sign of the missing climbers, while Gordon maintained a watch at Advance Base Camp. By the beginning of June the expedition was back at Base Camp and Bonington travelled to Chengdu to break the news of the deaths to Boardman and Tasker's families.Bonington, Chris and Clarke, Charles (1983) Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge London: Hodder and Stoughton. See also Chris Bonington, [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1983/22_bonington_everest_aaj1983.pdf#search=%22bonington%20everest%27s%20northeast%20ridge%22 "Everest's Northeast Ridge"], American Alpine Journal 1983. pp22-29.

News of Boardman's death was relayed to Hilary Boardman in Leysin, and Dorothy Boardman in Manchester,Coffey, Maria (1989) Fragile Edge London: Chatto & Windus, and covered in the media."Two die in British Everest climb" The Observer 6 June 1982, p1; Ronald Faux "Alpine Style fails on Everest" The Times, 7 June 1982, p3; "Boardman and Tasker killed", High Aug/Sep p.9; Walt Unsworth "Tragedy on Everest" Climber and Rambler July 1982, p14; "Tragic Epics in China" Mountain No. 86, July/August 1982, pp9-10.Obituaries: "Mr Peter Boardman and Mr Joe Tasker: contribution to mountaineering and its literature" The Times 7 June 1982, p16; [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1983_files/AJ%201983%20255-284%20In%20Memoriam.pdf "In Memoriam"] Alpine Journal 1983, pp262-269; Chris Bonington "Tribute to Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker" Climber and Rambler August 1982, p23; Chris Bonington "Pete and Joe" Mountain No. 88, p36; Dr Charles Clarke [http://boardmantasker.com/site/boardman.pdf "Peter Boardman"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130527205209/http://www.boardmantasker.com/site/boardman.pdf |date=27 May 2013 }}; Dennis Gray "Peter" Climber and Rambler August 1982, pp46-47; Walt Unsworth "Peter David Boardman (1950–1982) Climber and Rambler August 1982, p22; Martin Wragg "Peter Boardman" High No. 5 October/November 1982, p14-15. A memorial service was held for Boardman at St George's Church in Stockport on 11 July 1982.Salkeld, Audrey (1983) [http://larsonweb.com/catalogs/karrimor83/k83pg17.jpg "Peter Boardman"] Karrimor Technical Guide to Products, p17. In September 1982 Hilary Boardman and Maria Coffey, Joe Tasker's girlfriend, travelled to the north side of Everest as far as Advance Base Camp to retrace the last journey made by Boardman and Tasker.Coffey, Maria (1989) Fragile Edge London: Chatto & Windus.

Expeditions to the North East Ridge in 1985,1985 Pilkington Everest Expedition. See Andrew Greig (1986) Kingdoms of Experience: Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge London: Century Hutchinson. 19861986 Seligmann Harris Expedition. See Ronald Faux (1987) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1987_files/AJ%201987%2092-97%20Faux%20Everest.pdf "Everest NE Ridge-The Seligmann Harris Expedition"], Alpine Journal 1987. pp92-97. and 1987See Doug Scott (1988) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1988-89_files/AJ%201988%2051-56%20Scott%20Everest.pdf "The Altos North-East Ridge of Everest 1987 Expedition"], Alpine Journal 1988. pp51-56. failed to reach Boardman and Tasker's high point. In August 1988, Russell Brice and Harry Taylor succeeded in crossing the Pinnacles, thus completing the unclimbed section of the route, before descending via the North Ridge. They saw no sign of Boardman or Tasker due to heavy monsoon snow cover.See Paul Moores (1989) [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1989-90_files/AJ%201989%209-14%20Moores%20Everest.pdf "The Boys and the White Stuff: The First Crossing of the Pinnacles on the NE Ridge of Everest"], Alpine Journal 1989. pp9-14.

The next expedition on the ridge was in 1992 when a joint Japanese-Kazakh expedition crossed the Pinnacles but were unable to continue to the summit. They found a body beyond the second pinnacle at approximately 8,200m on the Rongbuk side of the ridge.Ohmiya, Motomo and Khrishchaty, Valeri (1993) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1993/Ohmiya_EvrstNER1993_15-18.pdf#search=%22everest%27s%20northeast%20ridge%22 "Everest's Northeast Ridge"], American Alpine Journal 1993. pp15-18. Photographs taken by Vladimir SuvigaOhmiya, Motomo and Khrishchaty, Valeri (1993) "Everest's Northeast Ridge", American Alpine Journal 1993. p17 and sent to Chris Bonington enabled the body to be identified, from the clothing and features, as Peter Boardman.Bonington, Chris (2002) Chris Bonington's Everest London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. p211.

In 1995 the complete ridge was climbed by a Japanese expedition.Nihon University Mountaineering Club (1996) [http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1996/309_chinatibet_aaj1996.pdf#search=%22nihon%20university%22 "Mount Everest, Northeast Ridge"], American Alpine Journal 1996. pp312-314. They also came across a body which was initially thought to be Joe Tasker.Hellen, Nicholas (1996) "Body of lost climber found on Everest" The Sunday Times, 20 October 1996. Upon re-examining all the evidence, Chris Bonington concluded that both sightings were of Boardman: "At first it was surmised that this was Joe Tasker, but after carefully comparing the written descriptions and the photographs provided by each expedition, I became convinced that this was the same as the original sighting and therefore that of Pete."Bonington, Chris (2002) Chris Bonington's Everest London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. p212. Bonington also concluded that the 1984 Goodman photograph (mentioned in Ohmiya and Khrischchaty above) was also of the same place.

Boardman's book about the 1976 Changabang expedition, The Shining Mountain, is one of the outstanding works of mountaineering literature, and won the 1979 John Llewellyn Rhys Prize for literature.{{cite journal|title=Boardman wins book award|journal=Climber and Rambler|date=November 1979|page=18}} A second book, Sacred Summits, detailing his climbing exploits in 1979 on Carstensz Pyramid, Kangchenjunga and Gauri Sankar, was published posthumously.

In 1995, these books, along with those of Joe Tasker, were republished in the Boardman Tasker Omnibus.

• The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was set up in 1983 by family and friends of the two climbers to honour their literary legacy.{{cite web|last=Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust|title=Boardman Tasker Prize|url=http://www.boardmantasker.com/|accessdate=24 March 2012}}
• The Peter Boardman Climbing Wall at Stockport Grammar School was dedicated in 2008.{{cite journal|title=Peter Boardman Climbing Wall|journal=Stockport Grammar School Newsletter|date=Winter 2009|issue=41|page=2|url=http://www.stockportgrammar.co.uk/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/taking-stock-issue-41.pdf|accessdate=24 March 2012}}
• In 2012, a calendar was produced for 2013 to mark the 30th anniversary of the disappearance of Boardman and Tasker.{{cite web|title=2013 Boardman Tasker 30th Anniversary Calendar|url=http://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/wildlife-and-photography/2013-boardman-tasker-30th-anniversary-calendar.html|publisher=Vertebrate Publishing|accessdate=10 November 2012}}
• In 2016, The Peter Boardman Climbing wall was opened at the University of Nottingham Ningbo China to mark Boardman's contribution both as a mountaineer and as a Nottingham alumnus.

• The Shining Mountain: Two men on Changabang's West Wall (with material by Joe Tasker) (1978) Hodder and Stoughton, London.
• Sacred Summits: A Climber's Year (1982) Hodder and Stoughton, London.

• "The Rock Rush", Nottingham University Mountaineering Club Journal, No. 9 December 1971. pp24–28.
• "Hindu Kush – Alpine Style", Alpine Journal, 1974. p110-114.
• "Long Necks in the Hindu Kush", Mountain, No. 36, June 1974. pp15–21.
• (with R. Richards) "British Everest Expedition SW Face 1975", Alpine Journal, 1976. pp3–15.
• "Everest is not a Private Affair", Mountain Life, Dec 1975/Jan 1976.
• "Peter the Pooh", Crags, No. 4, 1976, pp8–9.
• "Changabang Commentary", Mountain, No. 55, May/June 1977. pp15–27.
• "A Westerner's Luxury", The Listener, 2 March 1978. pp266–267.
• "No More Himalayan Heroes", Climber and Rambler, November 1979. pp34–41.
• "The Untrodden Peak", The Observer Magazine, [issue to be confirmed].
• "Gauri Sankar Report", Climber and Rambler, April 1980. pp40–42.
• "So You're an Everest Climber", Mountain, No. 76. Nov/Dec 1980. pp26–29.
• "Gaurishankar, South Summit", American Alpine Journal, 1980. pp616–617.
• "The British-Nepalese Gauri Shankar Expedition, 1979", Himalayan Journal, 1979–80, Vol. 37. p15.
• "1980 K2 Expedition", American Alpine Journal, 1981. pp286–89.
• "Fight for Life on the Savage Mountain", The Observer Magazine, 15 February 1981.
• "Mount Kongur", The Observer Magazine, 15 November 1981.

• List of people who died climbing Mount Everest

{{reflist|30em}}

• Barry, John (1990) "Raven's with the Great Man" in K. Wilson, D. Alcock & J. Barry (eds) Cold Climbs, London: Diadem Books. (Humorous and moving account of a day's climbing with Boardman in Scotland.)
• Bartlett, Phil (1993) The Undiscovered Country: The Reason We Climb, Holyhead: The Ernest Press. (Includes discussion of Boardman's attitude to and writing about mountaineering.)
• Bettembourg, Georges (with Brame, Michael) (1981) The White Death, Seattle: Reynard House. (Part II gives a different perspective on the 1979 Kangchenjunga expedition.)
• The Boardman Tasker Omnibus, London: Baton Wicks. (First published 1995; new ed. published 2012. Contains both Boardman's books plus Joe Tasker's Everest the Cruel Way and Savage Arena; introduction by Chris Bonington.)
• Bonington, Chris (1976) Everest the Hard Way, London: Hodder and Stoughton. (Everest 1975 expedition; includes extracts from Boardman's expedition diary.)
• Bonington, Chris (1982) Kongur: China's Elusive Summit, London: Hodder and Stoughton. (Kongur 1981 expedition; includes extracts from Boardman's expedition diary.)
• Bonington, Chris (1983) Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge, London: Hodder and Stoughton. (Everest 1982 expedition; includes extracts from Boardman's expedition diary.)
• Bonington, Chris (1986) The Everest Years: A Climber's Life, London: Hodder and Stoughton. (Includes Everest 1975, K2 1978, Kongur and Everest 1982 expeditions.)
• Bonington, Chris (2002) Chris Bonington's Everest, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson. (Includes chapters on Everest 1982 expedition and discovery of Boardman's body.)
• Coffey, Maria (1989) Fragile Edge, London: Chatto & Windus. (Description of friendship between Boardman and Tasker by Tasker's partner, and journey to Everest with Hilary Boardman.)
• Coffey, Maria (2003) Where the Mountain Casts its Shadow: The Personal Costs of Climbing, London: Hutchinson. (Describes effect of mountaineering deaths on family and friends, and impact of discovery of Boardman's body.)
• Curran, Jim (1991) Suspended Sentences: From the Life of a Climbing Cameraman, London: Hodder and Stoughton. (Includes account of the Kongur expedition.)
• Gray, Dennis (1990) Mountain Lover, Swindon: Crowood Press. (Gray was head of the BMC during Boardman's time there; includes anecdotes about Boardman.)
• Scott, Doug (1992) Himalayan Climber, London: Diadem Books. (Contains brief accounts and many photos of expeditions Scott shared with Boardman.)
• Tasker, Joe (1982) Savage Arena, London: Methuen. (Includes chapters on Changabang, K2 1978 and 1980, and Kangchenjunga expeditions.)
• Willis, Clint (2006) The Boys of Everest: Chris Bonington and the Tragedy of Climbing's Greatest Generation, New York: Carroll & Graf. (Boardman was one of Bonington's "Boys"; provides historical context.)

• [http://www.boardmantasker.com/ Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature]
• José Luis Bermúdez, 'Boardman, Peter David (1950–1982)', [http://www.oxforddnb.com/templates/article.jsp?articleid=62490&back= Oxford Dictionary of National Biography], Oxford University Press, Sept 2004; online edn, May 2006
• [http://www.mountain-heritage.org/entity.php?ID=219 Mountain Heritage Trust]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20120827083536/http://www.unumc.org/publications.php Nottingham University Mountaineering Club Journal]
• [http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/ Alpine Journal]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20120920034919/http://americanalpineclub.org/p/aaj American Alpine Journal]

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Boardman, Peter}}

Category:1950 births

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Category:British summiters of Mount Everest

Category:English mountain climbers

Category:English non-fiction writers

Category:John Llewellyn Rhys Prize winners

Category:Mountaineering deaths on Mount Everest

Category:People educated at Stockport Grammar School

Category:People from Stockport

Category:Sport deaths in China

Category:English male non-fiction writers

Category:20th-century English male writers

Category:English non-fiction outdoors writers

Category:Climbing and mountaineering writers