Aberdyfi

{{Short description|Village and community in Gwynedd, Wales}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2015}}

{{Use British English|date=March 2015}}

{{infobox UK place

| static_image_name = Aberdyfi 1.jpg

| static_image_caption = Aberdyfi viewed from across the estuary

| country = Wales

| welsh_name =

| constituency_welsh_assembly = Dwyfor Meirionnydd

| coordinates = {{coord|52.544|-4.044|display=inline,title}}

| population = 1282

| population_ref = (2011){{cite web|title=Neighbourhood statistics|url=http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=7&b=6499142&c=LL35+0NH&d=14&e=62&g=6488903&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=0&s=1367093254478&enc=1&dsFamilyId=2529|publisher=Office for National Statistics|access-date=14 May 2015|archive-date=9 January 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140109135429/http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=7&b=6499142&c=LL35+0NH&d=14&e=62&g=6488903&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=0&s=1367093254478&enc=1&dsFamilyId=2529|url-status=dead}}

| official_name = Aberdyfi
{{small|Aberdovey}}

| community_wales = Aberdyfi

| unitary_wales = Gwynedd

| lieutenancy_wales = Gwynedd

| constituency_westminster = Dwyfor Meirionnydd

| post_town = ABERDYFI / ABERDOVEY

| postcode_district = LL35

| postcode_area = LL

| dial_code = 01654

| os_grid_reference = SN615965

| module= 240px
Map of the community

}}

Aberdyfi ({{IPA|cy|abɛrˈdəvi}}), also known as Aberdovey ({{IPAc-en|æ|b|ə|r|ˈ|d|ʌ|v|iː}}{{citation needed|date=January 2024}} {{respell|a-bər|DUH|vee}}), is a village and community in Gwynedd, Wales, located on the northern side of the estuary of the River Dyfi.

The population of the community was 878 at the 2011 census. The electoral ward had a larger population of 1,282 and includes the community of Pennal.

Founded by shipbuilding, Aberdyfi is now a seaside resort with a high quality beach.{{cite web|title=Aberdyfi.org|url=http://aberdyfi.org/|access-date=23 April 2011}}{{cite web|title=Aberdyfi.com|url=http://aberdyfi.com/|access-date=23 April 2011|archive-date=25 April 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110425221345/http://www.aberdyfi.com/|url-status=dead}} The centre is on the river and seafront, around the original harbour, jetty and beach; it stretches back from the coast and up the steep hillside in the midst of typical Welsh coastal scenery of steep green hills and sheep farms. Penhelig railway station ({{langx|cy|Penhelyg}}) is in the eastern part of the village.

Being less than {{convert|100|mi}} from the West Midlands, the area is popular with tourists. 43.3% of houses in the village are holiday homes.{{Cite web|date=December 2020|title=Managing the use of dwellings as holiday homes|url=https://democracy.gwynedd.llyw.cymru//documents/s30618/Item%205biii%20-%20Appendix%20to%20the%20Cabinet%20Report.pdf|url-status=live|website=Gwynedd Council|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210624203638/https://democracy.gwynedd.llyw.cymru//documents/s30618/Item%205biii%20-%20Appendix%20to%20the%20Cabinet%20Report.pdf |archive-date=24 June 2021 }} The village is located within the Snowdonia National Park.

In the 2011 census, 38.5% of the population of Aberdyfi ward identified themselves as Welsh (or combined). 59.4% of the population were born outside Wales. According to the 2021 census, 43.3% could speak Welsh with an increase of 0.7% from last time.{{cite web |title=Welsh Language Percentage of people aged three years or older able to speak Welsh by LSOA 2021 |url=https://datamap.gov.wales/maps/new?layer=geonode:welsh_language_change_2021#/ |website=Welsh Government DataMapWales |access-date=18 March 2023}}

Name

File:Aberdyfi-Aberdovey western approach sign, February 2023.jpg

The anglicised spelling for the village and community is Aberdovey. The Welsh Aberdyfi is now widely used locally and by the Gwynedd Council{{cite web |title=Gwynedd Council supports scheme that will deliver affordable homes in Aberdyfi |url=https://www.gwynedd.llyw.cymru/en/Council/News/Press-releases/May-2018/Gwynedd-Council-supports-scheme-that-will-deliver-affordable-homes-in-Aberdyfi.aspx |website=Gwynedd Council |access-date=24 June 2019}} and the Welsh Government.

The body responsible for providing advice on the standard forms of Welsh place-names, the Welsh Language Commissioner, recommends Aberdyfi to be the standard form for use in both English and Welsh.{{Cite web|title=Standardised Welsh Place names|url=https://www.welshlanguagecommissioner.wales/standardised-welsh-place-names|access-date=2023-03-31|website=Welsh Language Commissioner}} Some entities continue to use the anglicisation{{cite web |title=Aberdyfi |url=http://data.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/doc/50kGazetteer/551 |website=Ordnance Survey |access-date=25 June 2019}}{{cite web |title=Aberdovey Post Office |url=https://www.postoffice.co.uk/branchfinder2/4816412/aberdovey |website=Post Office |access-date=19 August 2019}}{{cite web |title=Aberdovey (AVY) details |url=https://www.nationalrail.co.uk/stations/AVY/details.html |website=National Rail |access-date=25 June 2019}}{{cite web |title=Aberdovey Lifeboat Station |url=https://rnli.org/find-my-nearest/lifeboat-stations/aberdovey-lifeboat-station |website=Royal National Lifeboat Institution |access-date=24 June 2019}} e.g. some local businesses in their name and/or address{{cite web |title=Contact Us/Contact Details |url=http://www.aberdoveygolf.co.uk/page.aspx?pid=59942 |website=Aberdovey Golf Club |access-date=24 June 2019 |archive-date=31 October 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191031140559/http://aberdoveygolf.co.uk/page.aspx?pid=59942 |url-status=dead }}{{cite web |title=The Dovey Inn |url=https://www.sabrain.com/pubs-and-hotels/north-wales/gwynedd/the-dovey-inn/ |website=S.A. Brain & Co Ltd |access-date=24 June 2019}}{{cite web |title=Contact Us |url=https://www.braided-rug.co.uk/contact-us |website=The Braided Rug Company |access-date=24 June 2019}} and some use the two spellings interchangeably e.g. the BBC{{cite news |title=Gasworks site 'gifted' to Aberdyfi for wildlife |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-west-wales-29839965 |access-date=24 June 2019 |work=BBC News |date=31 October 2014}}{{cite news |title=Body found in sea between Aberdovey and Tywyn, say police |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-west-wales-18060460 |access-date=9 September 2019 |work=BBC News |date=14 May 2012}} or under different circumstances e.g. the Aberdyfi Community Council.{{cite web |title=Contact |url=https://aberdyfi-council.wales/council-contact/ |website=Aberdyfi Community Council |access-date=29 April 2021}}{{cite news |title='Dark web' drug dealer operating from an idyllic Welsh resort is jailed |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/crime/11761081/Dark-web-drug-dealer-operating-from-an-idyllic-Welsh-resort-is-jailed.html |access-date=8 September 2019 |work=The Telegraph |date=24 July 2015}}{{cite news |title=10 of the best beaches in Wales for a family day out |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/epic-day-in-wales/best-family-beaches-in-wales/ |access-date=8 September 2019 |work=The Telegraph |date=23 August 2017}}{{cite news |title=This Welsh chalet with one of the best views in the UK is up for sale |url=https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/welsh-chalet-one-best-views-11125530 |access-date=8 September 2019 |work=Wales Online |date=1 April 2016}}{{cite news |title=The £1.7m dream home that comes with its very own island |url=https://www.walesonline.co.uk/lifestyle/welsh-homes/17m-dream-home-comes-very-11217494 |access-date=8 September 2019 |work=Wales Online |date=5 September 2016}}{{cite web |title=Aberdyfi/Aberdovey Beach |url=https://www.visitwales.com/product/1948733 |website=VisitWales |access-date=9 September 2019}}

History

File:Aberdovey, north Wales.jpeg

Local tradition suggests that the Romans established a track into the area as part of the military occupation of Wales around AD78.{{cite book|last=Lewis|first=Hugh|title=Aberdyfi: a chronicle through the centuries|year=1997|publisher=Author|location=Aberdyfi}}

The strategic location in mid-Wales was the site of several conferences between north and south Wales princes in 540, 1140, and for the Council of Aberdyfi in 1216. The hill in the centre of the village, Pen-y-Bryn, has been claimed to be the site of fortifications in the 1150s, which were soon destroyed. The site of Aberdyfi Castle however is usually said to be at the motte earthworks further up the opposite side of the river near Glandyfi.{{cite web|url=http://www.castlewales.com/aberdyfi.html |title=Aberdyfi Castle|author=Northall, John |publisher=Castles of Wales |access-date=11 August 2019}}

During the Spanish Armada of 1597, a Spanish ship, the Bear of Amsterdam missed her objective at Milford Haven and ended up having entered the Dyfi estuary. She was unable to leave for 10 days because of the wind and could not be boarded as no suitable boats were available. An attempt to burn her was frustrated by winds and when she did leave she ended up being captured by a waiting English fleet off the Cornish coast.{{cite book|last1=Pickering|first1=W|title=Archaeologia Cambrensis, Volume 87|date=1932|publisher=Cambrian Archaeological Association|page=392|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=X_5JAAAAYAAJ&q=bear+of+amsterdam+1597+Aberdovey}}

In the 1700s, the village grew with the appearance of several of the inns still in current use (The Dovey Hotel, Britannia and Penhelig Arms). Copper was mined in the present Copperhill Street, and lead in Penhelig ({{langx|cy|Penhelyg}}).

File:Aberdyfi - 2009-02-27.jpg

=Port and railway=

In the 1800s, Aberdyfi was at its peak as a port. Major exports were slate and oak bark. Ship building was based in seven shipyards in Penhelig where 45 sailing ships were built between 1840 and 1880.

The railway came to the village in 1863 built by the Aberystwith and Welsh Coast Railway. The first train was ferried across the river, as the line to Dovey Junction and then Machynlleth was not completed until 1867. Due to public demand, this section had to use a long tunnel behind the village centre, and further major earthworks and tunnels were needed along the bank of the river. This line, which became part of the Cambrian Railways, and later the Great Western Railway, is particularly scenic.Christiansen, Rex & Miller, R.W. The Cambrian Railways, Vol. 1 David & Charles (1967)

A jetty was built in 1887, with railway lines connecting it with the wharf and the main line. The Aberdyfi & Waterford Steamship Company imported livestock from Ireland which were then taken further by the railway. Coal, limestone and timber were also imported.

File:Crowds on shore at Aberdyfi watching the regatta NLW3361114.jpg

File:A view of Aberdyfi from Penhelyg Rock NLW3360962.jpg

Local coastal shipping links with Liverpool were strong, with many Aberdyfi men sailing on international voyages from Liverpool. The {{SS|Dora}} was one of the last ships trading between Aberdyfi and Liverpool and was scuttled, with no loss of life, by a German submarine in 1917.

The jetty and wharf continued in commercial use for coal until 1959. After prolonged negotiations, redevelopments from 1968 to 1971, including rebuilding the jetty, led to their present use mainly for recreational purposes. Some local fishing still occurs.

The first ever Outward Bound centre was opened in the village in 1941.Outward Bound International. {{cite web|url=http://www.outwardbound.net/about-us/history/the-birth-of-outward-bound/ |title=The Birth of Outward Bound | Outward Bound International |access-date=2014-06-13 |url-status = dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140626031911/http://www.outwardbound.net/about-us/history/the-birth-of-outward-bound/ |archive-date=26 June 2014 }}. Retrieved 10 October 2014. Many of their activities involve the river, boats and jetty.

=Lifeboat=

{{main|Aberdovey Lifeboat Station}}

The village's first lifeboat was bought in 1837. Run by the RNLI since 1853, it has taken part in many rescues, sometimes with loss of life of crew members. The current lifeboat, an Atlantic 75, is housed in the boathouse by the jetty and is launched using a lifeboat tractor. Currently it is averaging about 25 emergency launches each year.{{cite web|title=Aberdovey Lifeboat|url=http://www.aberdoveylifeboat.org.uk/|access-date=24 April 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110903033917/http://www.aberdoveylifeboat.org.uk/|archive-date=3 September 2011|url-status=dead}}

Governance

An electoral ward of the same name stretches inland along the A494 road and includes Pennal community. The total population of the ward taken at the 2011 census was 1,282.

Worship

Chapels in Aberdyfi include the Welsh Calvinistic Methodist chapel, the English Presbyterian chapel, the Wesleyan Methodist chapel, and the Welsh Independent congregational chapel. The Anglican (Church in Wales) is St Peter's.

Transport

Road access to Aberdyfi is by the A493, with Tywyn four miles to the north and Machynlleth 11 miles to the east. The village is on the Cambrian Coast railway line and has two railway stations, {{rws|Aberdovey}} and {{rws|Penhelig}}. Trains on the Cambrian Line are operated by Transport for Wales. The local bus service is operated by Lloyds Coaches with services to Tywyn, where a connection can be made for Dolgellau, and to Machynlleth, where connections are available to Aberystwyth.

A ferry used to operate across the River Dyfi to Ynyslas. The last ferryman was [http://williamsfamilytree.co.uk/tree/getperson.php?personID=I519&tree=wft Ellis Williams].{{cite web|title=The Williams Family Tree|url=http://williamsfamilytree.co.uk/tree|access-date=24 April 2011}}

Recreation

Popular recreational activities focus on the beach and watersports, such as windsurfing, kitesurfing, fishing, crabbing, sailing, and canoeing on the estuary.

Image:Aberdyfi 11.jpg |Sailing from the beach

Image:Aberdyfi 12.JPG |A dinghy race on the Dyfi estuary

Image:Aberdyfi 13.jpg |Kitesurfing on the estuary

Image:Aberdyfi 14.jpg |The beach on a busy Bank Holiday

The Dovey Yacht Club has a prominent position on the river front of the village. It was founded in 1949 and helped develop the popularity of the GP14 dinghy class.{{cite web|title=Dovey Yacht Club |url=http://www.doveyyachtclub.org.uk/news/gallery/ |access-date=24 April 2011 |url-status = dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110521074842/http://www.doveyyachtclub.org.uk/news/gallery/ |archive-date=21 May 2011 }}{{cite book|author=Stuart Fisher|title=Rivers of Britain: Estuaries, Tideways, Havens, Lochs, Firths and Kyles|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=f_c_p_KNDzEC&pg=PA47|date=5 January 2012|publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing|isbn=978-1-4081-5931-6|pages=47–}} It organises races for dinghies throughout the season on the estuary of the River Dyfi.

The Aberdovey Golf Club, founded in 1892, is a famous 18 hole links course located near the railway station. It is world-renowned, having been described frequently and lyrically in the press by Bernard Darwin, the famed golf writer, who was a notable member of the club. In 1895, it was the location of the first Welsh Golfing Union Championship. Current members include Ian Woosnam and Peter Baker.{{cite web|title=Aberdovey Golf Club|url=http://www.aberdoveygolf.co.uk/|access-date=24 April 2011| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20110430232121/http://www.aberdoveygolf.co.uk/| archive-date= 30 April 2011 |url-status = live}}

Located by the Aberdovey Golf Club is Aberdyfi Football club boasting one of the best football pitches in Mid-Wales. The football team won the Welsh Amateur Cup Competition in 1934.{{cite web|title=FAW Welsh Trophy - over 100 years of history|url=http://blogs.dailypost.co.uk/northwalesfootball/2010/10/-this-saturday-the-last.html|access-date=23 April 2011}}

The Aberdyfi Rowing Club rows in the Dyfi Estuary and Cardigan Bay and takes part in races all round the coast of Wales and internationally. They row 24’ long Celtic longboats, with four rowers (each with one oar) and a cox. They have three of these traditional Welsh boats with fixed seats and use these for races in Wales.{{cite web|title=Aberdyfi Rowing Club|url=http://www.aberdyfirowingclub.com|access-date=24 April 2011}}

The Aberdovey Literary Institute, founded in 1882, is situated on the river front. The deeds of 1923 state it was established in perpetuity as "a non-sectarian, non-political place of recreation, education and social intercourse including ... reading rooms, writing rooms, library, billiard rooms, concert rooms ..."

Neuadd Dyfi is a community hall, conference centre and theatre owned by the village for village activities. It caters for a range of local organisations and events.

Cultural references

=The Bells of Aberdovey=

File:St Peter's Church and Terrace Road Aberdyfi - geograph.org.uk - 1005740.jpg

Aberdyfi is closely linked to the legend of the submerged lost kingdom of Cantre'r Gwaelod ({{langx|en|Lowland Hundred}}) beneath Cardigan Bay, and bells which, it is said, can be heard ringing beneath the water at the beach. The Bells of Aberdovey ({{langx|cy|Clychau Aberdyfi}}) is a well-known song referring to this legend. This song first appeared in the English opera Liberty Hall in 1785, written by Charles Dibdin, and is not thought to be a traditional folk-song as Welsh words were written by John Ceiriog Hughes, during the 19th century.

The legend and the song have inspired local cultural projects involving bells.

A new chime of bells was installed in September 1936 in the tower of St Peter's Church, which overlooks the harbour. The ten bells, tuned in the key of A flat, were specifically designed to allow the playing of The Bells of Aberdovey and are played from a mechanical carillon inside the church.{{cite web|title=About us |url=http://ten-wolde.net/stpeters/page2.html |work=St Peter's Church website |access-date=3 January 2012 |url-status = dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120426091115/http://ten-wolde.net/stpeters/page2.html |archive-date=26 April 2012 |df=dmy }}

{{multiple image|align=right|image1=The Pier At Aberdyfi - geograph.org.uk - 1005757.jpg|total_width=250 |image2=Time and Tide bell at Aberdyfi, December 2024.jpg |footer=The pier (left) and the Time and Tide Bell beneath it (right)}}

In 2010 an art installation was commissioned from sculptor Marcus Vergette as a homage to The Bells of Aberdovey. The work is a bronze Time and Tide Bell suspended beneath the pier which is rung by the action of water at high tide. It was installed in July 2011 and is one of several such bells around the United Kingdom.{{cite news|title=New bell rings as the tide rises in Aberdyfi, Gwynedd|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-14131599|access-date=3 January 2012|newspaper=BBC News|date=12 July 2011}}{{cite web|title=Time and Tide Bell|url=http://www.marcusvergette.co.uk/bell.htm|work=Marcus Vergette official website|access-date=3 January 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140407102948/http://www.marcusvergette.co.uk/bell.htm|archive-date=7 April 2014|url-status=dead}}

=Other=

To the east of Aberdyfi is a path from Penhelig to Picnic Island ({{langx|cy|Bryn Llestair}}) known as the Old Roman Road ({{langx|cy|Hen Ffordd Rufeinig}}). In reality, the path is known to have existed as early as the 19th century and the nearest known Roman structure on this side of the estuary was the fort Cefn Caer at Pennal.{{Citation needed|date=December 2024}}

Bugail Aberdyfi (the Shepherd of Aberdovey) is a poem written by John Ceiriog Hughes{{cite web |title=The Project Gutenberg Etext of Ceiriog, by John Ceiriog Hughes |url=http://www.public-library.uk/pdfs/5/796.pdf |access-date=3 July 2020}} which has been set to music and recorded by several singers including Bryn Terfel.

The children's novel, Silver on the Tree, by Susan Cooper, the final book of The Dark is Rising, is largely set around Aberdyfi, with many references to local landmarks.

The novel, Megan's Game by Tony Drury, published in 2012, contains many references to Aberdyfi, surrounding areas and the legend of The Bells of Aberdovey.{{cite news|publisher=The Telegraph|title=City veteran wields pen against dodgy brokers|date=17 May 2012|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/comment/citydiary/9272924/City-Diary-Sir-Win-trips-like-Britney.html|access-date=28 October 2014}}

Notable people associated with Aberdyfi

File:Aberdyfi from Ynyslas Sand Dunes.jpg from Ynyslas Sand Dunes, April 2011]]{{clear}}

See also

References

{{reflist}}