Ali Sadpara
{{Short description|Pakistani mountaineer (1976–2021)}}
{{Use Pakistani English|date=October 2015}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2015}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Muhammad Ali Sadpara
| image = Muhammad Ali Sadpara.jpg
| caption = Sadpara in 2019
| native_name = {{Nastaliq|محمد علی سدپارہ}}
| native_name_lang = ur
| birth_date = {{birth date|df=yes|1976|02|02}}
| disappeared_date = 5 February 2021
| disappeared_place = K2, Pakistan
| death_date = {{circa}} {{death date and age|2021|2|5|1976|2|2|df=y}}
{{small|(officially presumed dead at K2 Bottleneck on 18 February 2021)}}
| body_discovered = 26 July 2021{{Cite web|last=Jajja|first=Sumaira|date=2021-07-26|title=Bodies of Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Snorri and Mohr found on K2|url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1637052|access-date=2021-07-28|website=DAWN.COM|language=en}}
| birth_place = Skardu, Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan
| occupation = Mountaineer
| spouse = Fatima Sadpara
| children = Sajid Sadpara
}}
Muhammad Ali Sadpara ({{Langx|ur|محمد علی سدپارہ}}; {{Birth date|1976|2|2|df=y}} – {{Text|February 2021}}) was a Pakistani high-altitude mountaineer. He was part of the team (which included Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon) that completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016. Throughout his career, Sadpara successfully climbed a total of eight eight-thousanders, four of which he ascended in a single calendar year.
Early life
Sadpara was born on 2 February 1976 in the village of Sadpara, located near Skardu in Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan.{{Cite news|date=2021-02-19|title=Pakistan's Ali Sadpara: The climber who never came back from K2|language=en-GB|work=BBC News|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-56022457|access-date=2021-07-26}}{{Cite web|last=Jajja|first=Sumaira|date=2021-02-18|title=Muhammad Ali Sadpara: Porter, family man and tough as nails mountaineer|url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1606183|access-date=2021-07-26|website=DAWN.COM|language=en}} He was the youngest of eleven children, and eight of his siblings did not survive childhood. He married his wife, Fatima, when he was 19 and had his first son, Sajid, shortly afterwards; he had a total of three children. He completed his FA from a government college in Skardu and was a member of his college football team.{{cite web |title=Who is Ali Sadpara |url=https://www.skardu.pk/who-is-muhammad-ali-sadpara/ |website=Skardu.pk |access-date=12 February 2021}} He began his career as a high-altitude porter, serving as an assistant in mountain-climbing expeditions. Like most other porters, Sadpara traversed the Baltoro Glacier in flip-flops and castoff gear.{{Cite web|title=Muhammad Ali of Sadpara - Alpinist.com|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19s/wfeature-a64-tcl-muhammad-ali-sadpara|access-date=2021-07-26|website=www.alpinist.com|date=3 May 2019 }}
Mountaineering career
File:Ali Sadpara on the summit of K2.jpg of K2 in August 2018|left]]
In 2006, Sadpara climbed his first eight-thousander, Gasherbrum II, located in the Karakoram range.{{Citation needed|date=October 2024}}
In 2015, Sadpara's team attempted to scale Nanga Parbat during wintertime and were unsuccessful. The team attempted another winter ascent in 2016 and successfully summited its peak, resulting in the first-ever winter ascent of the mountain. Sadpara would successfully summit Nanga Parbat four times in his mountaineering career.
In January 2018, Sadpara joined Basque mountaineer {{ill|Alex Txikon|lt=Alex Txikon|es|Alex Txikon}}, in an unsuccessful attempt on Mount Everest during winter without supplemental oxygen.
In June 2018, he joined French speed climber {{ill|Marc Batard|lt=Marc Batard|fr|Marc Batard}} to undertake a five-year program known as "Beyond Mount Everest". The pair planned to summit Nanga Parbat, K2 and Mount Everest in 2019, 2021, and 2022, respectively.
| class="wikitable"
|+List of successful mountaineering ascents !Mountain Name !Range !Country !Year of Ascent !Notes |
| Gasherbrum II
|2006 | |
| Golden Peak
|Karakoram |Pakistan |2006 | |
| Nanga Parbat
|Pakistan |2008 | |
| Muztagh Ata
|China |2008 | |
| Nanga Parbat
|Himalayas |Pakistan |2009 | |
| Gasherbrum I
|Karakoram |Pakistan / China |2010 | |
| Nanga Parbat
|Himalayas |Pakistan |2016 |First winter ascent |
| Broad Peak
|Karakoram |Pakistan / China |2017 | |
| Nanga Parbat
|Himalayas |Pakistan |2017 |First autumn ascent |
| Pumori
|Himalayas |Nepal / China |2017 | |
| K2
|Karakoram |Pakistan / China |2018 | |
| Lhotse
|Himalayas |Nepal / China |2019 | |
| Makalu
|Himalayas |Nepal / China |2019 | |
| Manaslu
|Himalayas |Nepal |2019 | |
= Final climb =
{{Main article|2021 K2 disaster}}
During the winter season of 2020–2021, Sadpara, along with his 21-year-old son Sajid (who had also climbed K2 in 2019), teamed up with Icelandic mountaineer John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Chilean mountaineer Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto for a joint ascent of K2. After acclimatizing, the team left the highest camp on the evening of 4 February 2021. Sajid was later forced to descend due to an oxygen regulator malfunction,{{Cite web |last=Jajja |first=Sumaira |date=18 February 2021 |title=Sadpara, two other mountaineers missing on K2 declared dead |url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1608060 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210218120627/https://www.dawn.com/news/1608060 |archive-date=18 February 2021 |access-date=19 February 2021 |website=Dawn (Pakistan) |language=en |quote="The three climbers were last seen on Feb 5 near the Bottleneck on K2 as they attempted to reach the summit of the Savage Mountain. Sajid Sadpara, who was accompanying the three, had to abandon his summit bid after his oxygen regulator malfunctioned and he returned to camp 3."}} leaving the other members of the team at the K2 Bottleneck, close to the summit. Sadpara, Sigurjónsson, and Prieto continued their ascent to K2's summit, but did not return by night as planned, and were declared missing on 5 February 2021.{{cite news |author1=Markús Þ. Þórhallsson |date=5 February 2021 |title=Ekkert hefur heyrst frá John Snorra á K2 |url=https://www.ruv.is/frett/2021/02/05/ekkert-hefur-heyrst-fra-john-snorra-a-k2 |access-date=8 February 2021 |work=RÚV |language=Icelandic}}{{cite news |date=6 February 2021 |title=Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara, 2 others reported missing on K2 expedition |url=https://www.geo.tv/latest/333622-pakistani-ali-sadpara-who-is-on-k2-adventure-declared-missing |access-date=8 February 2021 |work=Geo News}} A rescue mission with two Pakistan Army helicopters was organized on 6 February 2021 to search for the team.{{cite news |date=February 6, 2021 |title=Pak Army helicopters fail to locate Pakistani climber, two others on K2 |url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1605828/pak-army-helicopters-fail-to-locate-pakistani-climber-two-others-on-k2 |work=Dawn}}{{cite news |date=February 15, 2021 |title=Sleeping bag, tents located through satellite imagery did not belong to Sadpara, others: search mission |url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1607326/sleeping-bag-tents-located-through-satellite-imagery-did-not-belong-to-sadpara-others-search-mission |work=Dawn}}
On 18 February 2021, Pakistani authorities announced that the three men were officially presumed dead, but the search for their remains would continue.{{cite news |date=18 February 2021 |title=Sadpara, two other mountaineers missing on K2 declared dead |url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1608060/sadpara-two-other-mountaineers-missing-on-k2-declared-dead |work=Dawn}}{{cite news |author1=Atli Ísleifsson |date=18 February 2021 |title=John Snorri, Ali og Juan Pablo formlega taldir af |url=https://www.visir.is/g/20212074962d/john-snorri-ali-og-juan-pablo-formlega-taldir-af |access-date=18 February 2021 |work=Vísir.is |language=Icelandic}} Sadpara's family also declared him as presumably dead on the same day.{{cite news |date=18 February 2021 |title=Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara declared dead by family |url=https://www.geo.tv/latest/335632-pakistani-climber-ali-sadpara-declared-dead-by-family |access-date=18 February 2021 |work=geo.tv}} On 26 July 2021, three bodies believed to be of the missing mountaineers were found on the slopes above Camp 4.{{cite news |author1=Angela Benavides |date=26 July 2021 |title=K2: Third Body Found |url=https://explorersweb.com/2021/07/26/k2-third-body-found/ |access-date=26 July 2021 |work=explorersweb.com}}{{Cite web |last=Jajja |first=Dawn com {{!}} Sumaira |date=2021-07-26 |title=Bodies of Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Snorri and Mohr found on K2 |url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1637052 |access-date=2021-07-26 |website=DAWN.COM |language=en}} Sadpara's body was found around {{Convert|300|meter}} below the K2 Bottleneck.{{Cite web |date=7 October 2011 |title=Mountaineer Ali Sadpara's body found on K2 after five months {{!}} SAMAA |url=https://www.samaa.tv/news/2021/07/mountaineer-ali-sadparas-body-found-on-k2/ |access-date=2021-07-26 |website=Samaa TV |language=en-US}} The bodies were found by a Madison Mountaineering Sherpa Team that was fixing ropes above the camp.{{Cite web |date=2021-07-26 |title=K2 Update: Two Bodies Found — Ali Sadpara One of Them |url=https://explorersweb.com/2021/07/26/k2-update-two-bodies-found-ali-sadpara-one-of-them/ |access-date=2021-07-26 |website=Explorersweb}} Sajid then retrieved the bodies of the three missing climbers including his father.{{cite news |date=28 July 2021 |title=Son retrieves body of legendary Sadpara from K2 'Bottleneck' |url=https://tribune.com.pk/story/2312659/son-retrieves-body-of-legendary-ali-sadpara-from-k2-bottleneck |work=The Express Tribune |language=en}}
Tributes
- A climbing wall named after Sadpara was inaugurated at Qayyum Stadium, Peshawar.{{cite news |title=Climbing wall named after Muhammad Ali Sadpara inaugurated |url=https://www.thenews.com.pk/print/802998-climbing-wall-named-after-muhammad-ali-sadpara-inaugurated |work=www.thenews.com.pk |date=12 March 2021 |language=en}}
- U.S. based NGO Paani Project built a well in honor of Sadpara.{{Cite web |date=2021-03-26 |title=This well is to honor Muhammad Ali Sadpara, a Pakistani high altitude mountaineer, who lost his life climbing K2 with his fellow mountaineers John Snorri Sigurjónsson & Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto. May their families have peace & patience while remembering their legacies #paaniproject |url=https://twitter.com/paaniproject/status/1375522163436949506 |access-date=2021-05-21 |website=Twitter |language=en}}
- Pakistan International Airlines renamed its air safari in the honour of Ali Sadpara.{{Cite web|title=Sadpara Air Safari inaugurated by Pakistan International Airlines|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/sadpara-air-safari-inaugurated-by-pakistan-international-airlines.html|access-date=2021-09-24|website=PlanetMountain.com|language=en}}{{cite news |last1=Ali |first1=Shehzad |title=PIA's Sadpara Air Safari takes off from Islamabad |url=https://www.samaaenglish.tv/news/amp/2346944 |work=Samaa |date=19 June 2021 |language=en}}
- A park in Korangi, Karachi was made in honour of Sadpara.{{cite news |title=Muhammad Ali Sadpara park inaugurated in Korangi |url=https://www.nation.com.pk/27-Mar-2021/muhammad-ali-sadpara-park-inaugurated-in-korangi |work=The Nation |date=27 March 2021 |language=en}}
- Sadpara was honoured with a monument at MP Chowk in Somikot, Gilgit. The roundabout was also renamed to Sadpara Chowk.{{cite news |title=Gilgit unveils Ali Sadpara monument for legendary climber |url=https://www.aajenglish.tv/news/30285515/gilgit-unveils-ali-sadpara-monument-for-legendary-climber |work=Aaj English TV |date=5 May 2022 |language=en}}
See also
References
{{reflist|refs=
[https://www.dawn.com/news/1605944 No contact with Sadpara, two others on K2 mission ]
[https://www.instagram.com/john.snorri/?hl=en John Snorri]
[https://www.instagram.com/alextxikon/?hl=en Alex Txikon]
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Sadpara, Ali}}
Category:2020s missing person cases
Category:Missing person cases in Pakistan
Category:Formerly missing Pakistani people
Category:Pakistani summiters of K2
Category:People from Gilgit-Baltistan