Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto

{{Short description|Chilean architect and mountaineer (1987–2021)}}{{Family name hatnote|Mohr|Prieto|lang=Chilean}}{{Infobox person

| name = Juan Pablo "JP" Mohr Prieto

| birth_date = {{birth date|1987|2|9|df=y}}

| birth_place = Santiago, Chile

| disappeared_date = 5 February 2021

| disappeared_place = K2, Pakistan

| death_date = {{circa}} {{death date and age|2021|2|5|1987|2|9|df=y}}
{{small|(officially presumed dead at K2 Bottleneck on 18 February 2021)}}

| body_discovered = July 2021

| resting_place = K2

| nationality = Chilean

| education = Colegio San Benito

| alma_mater = Diego Portales University

| occupation = Architect and Mountaineer

| known_for = First to summit Lhotse and Everest without returning to base camp in less than a week

| spouse = Juana Fernández (married 2011)

| children = 3

| parents = Raúl Mohr and Carmen Prieto

}}

Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto (born February 9, 1987 – {{circa}} February 5, 2021) was a Chilean architect, rock climber and mountaineer. He held a Guinness World Record for making the first enchainment of Lhotse and Mount Everest without oxygen in 2019.

Biography

In 2012, he graduated as an architect from the Diego Portales University and later devoted himself to taking mountaineering and rescue courses. He created the DeporteLibre Foundation, a non-profit organization that creates public sports infrastructure in abandoned spaces.{{Cite web|title=Juan Pablo Mohr : Red de Líderes Jóvenes|url=http://www.redlideres.cl/lider/juan-pablo-mohr/|access-date=2021-02-08|website=www.redlideres.cl}} Mohr was behind the development of one of the foundation's facilities, Parque de Escalada Los Silos, a free outdoor climbing gym in Santiago.{{Cite web |last=Marty |first=Sierra |last2=Paulsen |first2=Melissa |date=2019-11-12 |title=Urban Climbing in Santiago, Chile |url=https://wasatchmag.com/urban-climbing-in-santiago-chile/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |website=Wasatch Magazine}}{{Cite web |last=Clarke |first=Owen |date=2024-06-28 |title=The 13 Coolest Climbing Gyms in the World |url=https://www.climbing.com/places/worlds-13-coolest-climbing-gyms/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}} Los Silos is the highest urban climbing park in Latin America.{{Cite news |date=2022-05-31 |title=Mountaineer JP Mohr's message: "We can all reach our summits" |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-61562289 |access-date=2024-10-22 |work=BBC News |language=en-GB}}

= Mountaineering =

In 2017, Mohr and Sebastián Rojas summitted Annapurna, becoming the first Chileans to achieve this feat.{{Cite web|title=Histórico: Cordada chilena hace cumbre en el Annapurna {{!}} Revista Escalando|url=https://www.escalando.org/2017/05/historico-cordada-chilena-hace-cumbre-en-el-annapurna/|access-date=2021-02-08}} In 2019, Mohr was registered in the Guinness Records for being the first person to summit Lhotse and Everest without having to return to the Base camp in less than a week, without the help of Sherpas and without oxygen.{{Cite web|last=Mostrador|first=El|date=2020-05-25|title=Juan Pablo Mohr, el montañista chileno que logró un Récord Guinness en dos de las cumbres más altas del mundo|url=https://www.elmostrador.cl/generacion-m/2020/05/25/juan-pablo-mohr-el-montanista-chileno-que-logro-un-record-guinness-en-dos-de-las-cumbres-mas-altas-del-mundo/|access-date=2021-02-08|website=El Mostrador|language=es}}{{Cite web |last=Potter |first=Steven |date=2022-01-04 |title=A Climber We Lost: Juan Pablo “JP” Mohr Prieto, February 5 |url=https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-juan-pablo-jp-mohr-prieto/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}} In October of the same year, he made an ascent of Dhaulagiri, also without supplementary oxygen and without the help of Sherpas.{{Cite web|title=» Juan Pablo Mohr: "Cada 'ocho mil' es más difícil que el anterior"|date=4 October 2019 |url=https://www.cmpc.com/juan-pablo-mohr-conquista-la-cumbre-del-monte-dhaulagiri/|access-date=2021-02-08|language=es-ES}}

After these ascents, Mohr began to outline a project to climb to the highest summit of each of Chile's sixteen regions and build mountain shelters in all of them, declaring that “as an architect I want to design and build shelters in the highest mountains from each region to expand mountaineering in Chile",{{Cite web|last=S.A.P|first=El Mercurio|date=2020-04-23|title=El tremendo y noble desafío por el que irá el montañista chileno que hizo historia consiguiendo un Récord Guinness {{!}} Emol.com|url=https://www.emol.com/noticias/Deportes/2020/04/22/983849/Juan-Pablo-Mohr-Record-Guinness.html|access-date=2021-02-08|website=Emol|language=Spanish}} also developing mountaineering workshops and training for local communities with the aim of generating a system that allows the local administration of each refuge and generating activities that promote mountain culture, with the support of the Ministry of National Assets, the National Institute of Sports and the National Tourism Service.{{Cite web|title=El Volcán Tronador en nuestra región fue la primera cumbre conquistada: Montañista Juan Pablo Mohr pretende subir las 16 cumbres más altas de cada una de las regiones del país|url=https://www.eha.cl/noticia/local/el-volcan-tronador-en-nuestra-region-fue-la-primera-cumbre-conquistada-montanista-juan-pablo-mohr-pretende-subir-las-16-cumbres-mas-altas-de-cada-una-de-las-regiones-del-pais-9344|access-date=2021-02-08|website=El Heraldo Austral|language=es}}

= Final climb =

In late 2020, Mohr traveled to K2 with Sergi Mingote in an attempt to make the first successful winter ascent of the mountain. Mohr was on the mountain with Mingote when he fell and died on January 16, 2021.{{Cite news |last=Nación de Argentina / GDA |first=La |date=2023-02-04 |title=Tragedia en la cumbre: la fatídica expedición en una de las montañas más altas del mundo que terminó con la vida de Juan Pablo Mohr |url=https://elcomercio.pe/mundo/latinoamerica/juan-pablo-mohr-tragedia-en-la-cumbre-la-fatidica-expedicion-en-una-de-las-montanas-mas-altas-del-mundo-que-termino-con-la-vida-del-alpinista-chile-himalayas-narracion-historias-ec-noticia/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |work=El Comercio |language=es-PE |issn=1605-3052}} After the death of his partner, Mohr decided to continue his attempt with the Italian mountaineer Tamara Lunger, who later could not continue either.{{Cite web |last=Silva |first=Juan Pablo |title=Tamara Lunger, alpinista italiana y amiga de Juan Pablo Mohr: "De alguna manera yo también me perdí ese día” {{!}} DFMAS |url=https://dfmas.df.cl/df-mas/lecciones-de-vida/tamara-lunger-alpinista-italiana-y-amiga-de-juan-pablo-mohr-de-alguna |access-date=2024-10-22 |website=dfmas.df.cl |language=es-CL}} Mohr then followed the route of ascent alongside Pakistani mountaineers Muhammad and Sajid Ali Sadpara and Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson. Sajid, Muhammad's 20-year-old son, was forced to return from the so-called 'bottleneck' area of K2 due to a malfunctioning oxygen regulator.{{Cite web|title=Missing on K2 Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/missing-on-k2-juan-pablo-mohr-muhammad-ali-sadpara-john-snorri.html|access-date=2021-02-08|website=PlanetMountain.com|language=en}}

On Friday, February 5, when the trio was preparing to conquer the summit, they lost contact with their GPS devices, presumably frozen by the extreme cold in the area.{{Cite web |title=#K2Winter2021: Chilean climber JP Mohar and his team members gone missing during expedition in Pakistan – Chile News {{!}} Breaking News, Views, Analysis |url=https://santiagotimes.cl/2021/02/08/k2winter2021-chilean-climber-jp-mohar-and-his-team-members-gone-missing-during-expedition-in-pakistan/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |language=en-US}}{{Cite web|date=2021-02-06|title=Juan Pablo Mohr se encuentra desaparecido en la montaña K2|url=https://chile.as.com/chile/2021/02/06/masdeporte/1612619676_316475.html|access-date=2021-02-08|website=AS Chile|language=es-cl}} On Saturday the 6th, the three mountaineers were reported missing and the search began with the help of helicopters from the Pakistani army that reached up to 7000 meters, but due to adverse weather conditions they had to suspend the rescue without seeing Mohr and his companions.{{Cite web|last=S.A.P|first=El Mercurio|date=2021-02-06|title=Se suspende por mal clima la búsqueda del montañista chileno Juan Pablo Mohr y sus compañeros, desaparecidos en el K2 {{!}} Emol.com|url=https://www.emol.com/noticias/Deportes/2021/02/06/1011515/Cesa-busqueda-Juan-Pablo-Mohr.html|access-date=2021-02-08|website=Emol|language=Spanish}} He was declared dead on February 18, 2021.{{Cite web|last=Jajja|first=Sumaira|date=2021-02-18|title=Sadpara, two other mountaineers missing on K2 declared dead|url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1608060|access-date=2021-06-29|website=DAWN.COM|language=en}}

Mohr would be one of five climbers to lose their lives on K2 during the 2020–2021 winter season.{{Cite web |last=Routen |first=Ash |date=2021-02-07 |title=K2: The Fallen Five » Explorersweb |url=https://explorersweb.com/k2-the-fallen-five/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |website=Explorersweb}} In July 2021, Mohr's body was found on K2. In accordance with his family's wishes, his body remains on the mountain.{{Cite web |last=Morales |first=Fernando |date=2022-03-16 |title=Todas las cumbres de Juan Pablo Mohr |url=https://vergara240.udp.cl/todas-las-cumbres-de-juan-pablo-mohr/ |access-date=2024-10-22 |website=Vergara 240 - Escuela de Periodismo UDP |language=es-CL}}