Bergdorf Goodman

{{Short description|American luxury department store}}

{{Redirect|Bergdorf}}

{{Use American English|date=March 2025}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=August 2024}}

{{Infobox company

| name = Bergdorf Goodman Inc.

| logo = Bergdorf Goodman Logo.svg

| logo_size = 250px

| image = Original Store -Bergdorf Goodman (48064048193).jpg

| image_size = 250px

| image_caption = The Bergdorf Goodman flagship store at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street

| alt = The Bergdorf Goodman flagship store, a large building with a stone facade, at the intersection of two streets at sunset.

| type = Subsidiary

| industry = Retail

| genre = Department stores

| foundation = {{Start date and age|1899}} in New York City, U.S.

| location = 754 5th Ave, New York, NY USA 10019
{{coord|40.7634|-73.9741|format=dms|type:landmark_region:US-NY|display=title,inline}}

| location_city =

| location_country =

| founder = Herman Bergdorf

| num_locations = 2 (both on 700 block 5th Ave, New York City)

| key_people = {{plainlist|

  • Linda Fargo (women's CD)
  • Bruce Pask (men's CD){{cite magazine| url=http://www.wwd.com/menswear-news/retail-business/bruce-pask-takes-mens-fashion-post-at-bergdorf-goodman-7587400?src=nl/mornReport/20140313| title=Bruce Pask Takes Men's Fashion Post at Bergdorf Goodman| journal=Women's Wear Daily| date=March 13, 2014| access-date=March 13, 2014| last=Palmieri| first=Jean E.}}

}}

| products = {{flat list|

}}

| parent = {{plainlist|

}}

| homepage = {{URL|bergdorfgoodman.com}}

}}

Bergdorf Goodman Inc. is an American luxury department store based in New York City, founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf. {{As of|2024}}, it operates a women's store and a men's store across the street from each other on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. It has been owned by Saks Global, a spin-off of the Hudson's Bay Company, since 2024.{{Cite web |last=IV |first=Antonio Pequeño |title=Saks Global Inks $2.7 Billion Acquisition Of Neiman Marcus In Amazon-Backed Deal |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/antoniopequenoiv/2024/12/23/saks-global-inks-27-billion-acquisition-of-neiman-marcus-in-amazon-backed-deal/ |access-date=2024-12-25 |website=Forbes |language=en}}

History

=Founding and early history (1899–1951)=

The company traces its origins to 1899 when Herman Bergdorf, an immigrant from Alsace, opened a tailor's shop just above Union Square in downtown Manhattan.

Edwin Goodman, a 23-year-old American JewishAmerican Jewish Year Book, Volume 95, Cyrus Adler, Henrietta Szold

VNR AG, 1995, page 587 merchant, based in Lockport, New York, moved to New York City to work as an apprentice for Bergdorf.{{cite magazine| title=The New York Times Biographical Service| journal=The New York Times Biographical Service: A Compilation of Current Biographical Information of General Interest| volume=2| publisher=Arno Press| year=1971| page=3390| issn=0161-2433}} Within two years, Goodman had raised enough money to purchase an interest in the business, which was renamed Bergdorf Goodman in 1901. In 1906, Bergdorf Goodman moved to a new location on 32nd Street, just west of Fifth Avenue and "Ladies' Mile". While Bergdorf preferred the less expensive side street location, Goodman prevailed with the new location and bought Bergdorf's interest in the company. Bergdorf would retire to Paris.

Although Goodman had developed a good business as a ladies' tailor on 32nd Street, he decided to move uptown in 1914. He constructed a five-story building at 616 Fifth Avenue, on the site of what is today Rockefeller Center.{{cite news |title=Fight in Fifth Ave. Tailors' Strike |url=https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1915/02/20/100142521.pdf |newspaper=The New York Times |date=February 20, 1915 |access-date=November 19, 2011}} In 1914, he became the first couturier to introduce ready-to-wear, making Bergdorf Goodman a destination for American and French fashion.

The store moved to its present location at Fifth Avenue and 58th Street in 1928, building its Beaux-Arts style Bergdorf Goodman Building on the site of the Cornelius Vanderbilt II House. Goodman was unsure of the success of the new store's location, as he was uncertain whether customers would follow the store uptown and so designed the new store so that it could be subdivided into sections with storefronts that could be let if needed. Early tenants included Van Cleef & Arpels, the Grande Maison de Blanc and Dobbs the Hatter.{{cite news |title=The Bergdorf Goodman Building on Fifth Avenue; From Architectural Links to Common Ownership |first=Christopher |last=Gray |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1998/08/30/realestate/streetscapes-bergdorf-goodman-building-fifth-avenue-architectural-links-common.html |newspaper=The New York Times |date=August 30, 1998 |access-date=November 19, 2011}} During the Great Depression, however, Goodman thrived, buying the entire building. Throughout the 1930s, he purchased the mortgages of the surrounding businesses, eventually acquiring the entire block. During this period, Bergdorf Goodman was successful enough to have merited an expansion beyond the single store. However, Goodman preferred to operate in a single location where he would be able to personally maintain the quality of the merchandise and service.

=The second generation (1951–1972)=

File:TheNeptuneBracelet.jpg

Image:Bergdorfg1.jpg, 1956]]

Goodman's son, Andrew, assumed the role of president in 1951 and succeeded as head of the company in 1953, following the death of his father.{{cite news |title=Andrew Goodman, 86, Bergdorf's Innovator, Dies |first=Bruce |last=Lambert |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1993/04/05/obituaries/andrew-goodman-86-bergdorf-s-innovator-dies.html |newspaper=The New York Times |date=April 5, 1993 |access-date=November 19, 2011}} Andrew was responsible for enhancing Bergdorf's reputation and expanding its range of merchandise and services.

During Andrew's tenure as chairman, Bergdorf opened a fur salon (headed by Emeric Partos from 1955 to 1975),{{cite news |last1=Lambert |first1=Eleanor |title=Coty 'Winnie' Awards go to Three Top Designers |url=https://newspaperarchive.com/other-articles-clipping-oct-04-1957-3287067/ |access-date=June 26, 2022 |work=Corpus Christi Times |date=October 4, 1957}} developed the successful Bergdorf Goodman Number Nine perfume ("Love Potion Number Nine"), and created Miss Bergdorf, a ready-to-wear line for younger customers.

The Bergdorf Goodman Building began a $1 million expansion in 1959 (${{Inflation|US|1|1959|r=1|fmt=c}} million today) into two adjacent buildings. The Boys and Girls gift shop expanded into a whole floor, and the beauty salon and bridal, fur and men's departments also expanded.{{cite magazine |date=March 16, 1959 |title=Expansion Plan Is Confirmed, at Bergdorf Goodman |magazine=Women's Wear Daily |pages=8 |volume=98 |issue=51 |id={{ProQuest|1565384416}}}} A $2.5 million expansion in 1967 (${{Inflation|US|2.5|1967|r=1|fmt=c}} million today) nearly doubled the store's area, to {{convert|120000|sqft|m2}}. A branch in Chicago was proposed in 1965{{Cite news |last=Bender |first=Marylin |date=August 18, 1965 |title=Bergdorf Heading West; Chicago Branch Planned |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1965/08/18/archives/bergdorf-heading-west-chicago-branch-planned.html |access-date=August 3, 2024 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} but canceled two years later.{{Cite news |date=September 13, 1967 |title=Bergdorf's Drops Chicago Plans |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1967/09/13/archives/bergdorfs-drops-chicago-plans-bergdorfs-drops-plans-in-chicago.html |access-date=August 3, 2024 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}}

=New ownership (1972–1990)=

Broadway-Hale Stores proposed merging with Bergdorf Goodman in 1971,{{cite news |last=Auerbach |first=Alexander |date=March 25, 1971 |title=Broadway-Hale Plans Merger With Bergdorf's |work=Los Angeles Times |pages=E13 |issn=0458-3035 |id={{ProQuest|156602586}} |postscript=none}}; {{Cite news |last=Sloane |first=Leonard |date=March 25, 1971 |title=West Coast Chain To Buy Bergdorf's |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1971/03/25/archives/west-coast-chain-to-buy-bergdorfs-bergdorf-goodman-to-be-bought-by.html |access-date=August 3, 2024 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} and the Federal Trade Commission approved the merger the next year.{{cite news |date=April 14, 1972 |title=Broadway-Hale Stores Allowed by FTC to Buy Bergdorf Goodman Co.: Panel Agrees New York Retailer Likely Would Close Without Merger for Lack of Funding |work=The Wall Street Journal |page=30 |issn=0099-9660 |id={{ProQuest|133647487}} |postscript=none}}; {{Cite news |last=Barmash |first=Isadore |date=April 13, 1972 |title=Approval of Bergdorf Store Sale To Broadway-Hale Due Today |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1972/04/13/archives/approval-of-bergdorf-store-sale-to-broadwayhale-due-today-approval.html |access-date=August 3, 2024 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} Broadway-Hale Stores, which would become Carter Hawley Hale Stores (CHH), completed its acquisition of Bergdorf Goodman in June 1972.{{Cite news |date=June 23, 1972 |title=Chris-Craft Clears Sale of TV Station To Metromedia, Inc. |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1972/06/23/archives/chriscraft-clears-sale-of-tv-station-to-metromedia-inc.html |access-date=August 3, 2024 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} CHH had acquired Neiman Marcus, a three-unit operation at the time, in 1969. By the time of the sale, Bergdorf Goodman was the only large high-quality specialty store in the U.S. that remained independently owned. However, its decision not to build suburban branches left it with a relatively modest profit margin. Goodman remained the landlord of the store and kept a penthouse apartment on the building's top floor.

File:Bergdorf Goodman window on Fifth Avenue New York City.jpg fur coat on display in the window of Bergdorf Goodman's Fifth Avenue store in 2008]]

At first, CHH considered building branch locations,{{Cite news |last=Barmash |first=Isadore |date=June 14, 1973 |title=First Bergdorf Branch to Open in 1974 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1973/06/14/archives/first-bergdorf-branch-to-open-in-1974-bergdorf-branch-will-open-in.html |access-date=August 3, 2024 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} ultimately only constructing one location, in nearby White Plains, New York, in 1974. This location eventually became a Neiman Marcus branch in 1980.{{Cite news|last=Barmash|first=Isadore|date=1988-08-31|title=Bergdorf Will Open A 2d Store|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1988/08/31/business/bergdorf-will-open-a-2d-store.html|access-date=2024-08-03|work=The New York Times|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331}} To combat its image difficulties, the company hired Dawn Mello in 1975 as vice president of fashion. She was successful in reinvigorating the conservative store and became president in 1984. She left her post in 1989 to work for the floundering Italian fashion house Gucci, though she returned to her post as president in 1994.{{Citation needed|date=March 2020}}

Bergdorf Goodman's parent company became the object of takeover bids in the 1980s. As a way to maintain its independence, Carter Hawley completed a major financial restructuring. In 1987, Bergdorf Goodman was spun-off, together with Neiman Marcus and Contempo Casuals, to form Neiman Marcus Group. The new company was headquartered in Dallas, Texas, where the significantly larger Neiman Marcus had been based for 80 years.{{Citation needed|date=March 2020}}

=Reaching the centennial (1990–present)=

Chairman and CEO Ira Neimark expanded the women's store three times in the 1990s. He moved the men's store across the street to the former FAO Schwarz space at 745 Fifth Avenue in 1990. This move allowed more space for women's fashions. In 1997, the former Goodman family apartment on the building's ninth floor became the John Barrett Salon and Susan Ciminelli Day Spa. In 1999, the Beauty Level opened directly below the main floor, offering a luxury spa and Goodman's Café, serving lunch and afternoon tea.{{cite news |title=Bergdorf Weighs a Satellite Store |first=Isadore |last=Barmash |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1988/08/18/business/bergdorf-weighs-a-satellite-store.html |newspaper=The New York Times |date=August 18, 1988 |access-date=November 19, 2011}}

In 2002, the Bergdorf Goodman Building underwent a major restoration, including a restoration of the main floor of the women's store. In 2003, the store introduced new boutiques for Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent. The Bergdorf Goodman Men's store features exclusive brands such as Loro Piana, Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, John Lobb, Thom Browne, Bontoni, Tom Ford, and Charvet.

On May 2, 2005, two private equity firms, Texas Pacific Group and Warburg Pincus, acquired the Neiman Marcus Group and its Bergdorf subsidiary, in a leveraged buyout (LBO).{{cite news| url=https://money.cnn.com/2005/05/02/news/midcaps/neiman_marcus/index.htm| title=Neiman Marcus in $5.1B buyout| work=CNNMoney| date=May 2, 2005}}

In December 2024, Bergdorf Goodman was acquired as part of the $2.7B Neiman Marcus Group acquisition by Saks Global.{{cite news|last=Pequeño IV|first=Antonio|title=Saks Global Inks $2.7 Billion Acquisition Of Neiman Marcus In Amazon-Backed Deal|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/antoniopequenoiv/2024/12/23/saks-global-inks-27-billion-acquisition-of-neiman-marcus-in-amazon-backed-deal/|date=24 December 2024|work=Forbes}}

See also

References

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