Bra size#Notes
{{short description|Measure (usually 2 factors) to determine proper bra fit}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2019}}
File:PostureFoundationGarments07fig5.png at the inframammary fold and over the bust]]
Bra size (also known as brassiere measurement or bust size) indicates the size characteristics of a bra to accurately fit the breasts. While there are a number of bra sizing systems in use around the world, the bra sizes usually consist of a number, indicating the size of the band around the torso, and one or more letters that indicate the breast cup size. Bra cup sizes were invented in 1932 while band sizes became popular in the 1940s. For convenience, because of the impracticality of determining the size dimensions of each breast, the volume of the bra cup, or cup size, is based on the difference between band length and over-the-bust measurement.
Manufacturers try to design and manufacture bras that correctly fit the majority of wearers, while individuals try to identify correctly fitting bras among different styles and sizing systems.{{cite web |url=http://www.barenecessities.com/fit_sizing.aspx |title=Find Your Bra Size |publisher=BareWeb Inc. |access-date=30 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110219210256/http://www.barenecessities.com/fit_sizing.aspx |archive-date=19 February 2011 |url-status=live }}
The shape, size, position, symmetry, spacing, firmness, and sag of an individual's breasts vary considerably. Manufacturers' bra size labelling systems vary from country to country because no international standards exist. Even within a country, one study found that the bra size label was consistently different from the measured size.{{sfn|Pechter|1998}} As a result of all these factors, about 25% of bra-wearers have a difficult time finding a properly fitted bra,{{cite web |url=http://www.cupmysize.com/women-wear-wrong-size-bra/ |title=Why most women wear wrong bra size |publisher=Cupmysize.com |access-date=30 September 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161001224034/http://www.cupmysize.com/women-wear-wrong-size-bra/ |archive-date=1 October 2016 |url-status=live |date=23 September 2016 }} and some choose to buy custom-made bras due to the unique shape of their breasts.
Measurement method origins
File:S-H-Camp-company-ad-cup-sizes-1933.jpg
On 21 November 1911, Parisienne Madeleine Gabeau received a United States patent for a brassiere with soft cups and a metal band that supported and separated the breasts. To avoid the prevailing fashion that created a single "monobosom",{{Citation needed|date=April 2017|reason=Information not found in patent.}} her design provided: "...that the edges of the material d may be carried close along the inner and under contours of the breasts, so as to preserve their form, I employ an outlining band of metal b which is bent to conform to the lower curves of the breast."{{US patent reference | number = 1009297| y = 1909 | m = November | d = 21 |inventor =Madeleine Gabeau |url=https://www.google.com/patents?id=BnNmAAAAEBAJ |title = Breast Supporters}}
= Cup design origins =
The term "cup" was not used to describe bras until 1916{{sfn|Farrell-Beck|Gau|2002}} when two patents were filed.{{US patent reference | number = 1115674| y = 1914 | m = November | d = 14 |inventor =Mary Phelps Jacob |url=https://www.google.com/patents?id=saFqAAAAEBAJ |title = Brassière}}
In October 1932, S.H. Camp and Company was the first to use letters of the alphabet (A, B, C and D) to indicate cup size, although the letters represented how pendulous the breasts were and not their volume. Camp's advertising in the February 1933 issue of Corset and Underwear Review featured letter-labeled profiles of breasts. Cup sizes A to D were not intended to be used for larger-breasted women.{{sfnm|1a1=Apsan|1y=2006|1p=186}}
In 1935, Warner's introduced its Alphabet Bra with cup sizes from size A to size D. Their bras incorporated breast volume into its sizing,[https://theconversation.com/wearing-an-ill-fitting-bra-isnt-just-uncomfortable-its-bad-for-your-health-100292 Wearing an ill-fitting bra isn't just uncomfortable, it's bad for your health] and continues to be the system in use today. Before long, these cup sizes got nicknames: egg cup, tea cup, coffee cup and challenge cup, respectively.{{sfn|Eisenberg|Eisenberg|2012}} Two other companies, Model and Fay-Miss (renamed in 1935 as the Bali Brassiere Company), followed, offering A, B, C and D cup sizes in the late 1930s. Catalogue companies continued to use the designations Small, Medium and Large through the 1940s.{{sfnm|1a1=Apsan|1y=2006|1p=186|2a1=Farrell-Beck|2a2=Gau|2y=2002|3a1=Steele|3y=2010|3p=101}} Britain did not adopt the American cups in 1933, and resisted using cup sizes for its products until 1948. The Sears Company finally applied cup sizes to bras in its catalogue in the 1950s.{{sfn|Fields|2007|p=102}}
However, though various manufacturers used the same descriptions of bra sizes (e.g., A to D, small large, etc.), there was no standardisation of what these descriptions actually measured, so that each company had its own standards.
= Band measurement origins =
Multiple hook and eye closures were introduced in the 1930s that enabled adjustment of bands. Prior to the widespread use of bras, the undergarment of choice for Western women was a corset. To help women meet the perceived ideal female body shape, corset and girdle manufacturers used a calculation called hip spring, the difference between waist and hip measurement (usually {{convert|10|–|12|in|cm}}).{{cite web |url=http://www.corsetiere.net/Spirella/Corsetiere/Older.htm#hipspring |title=Spirella, Health and the Older Woman |access-date=24 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110524080956/http://www.corsetiere.net/Spirella/Corsetiere/Older.htm#hipspring |archive-date=24 May 2011 |url-status=live }}
The band measurement system was created by U.S. bra manufacturers just after World War II.{{citation needed|date=April 2018}}
= Other innovations =
The underwire was first added to a strapless bra in 1937 by André, a custom-bra firm.{{cite web |url=http://www.shmoop.com/history-american-fashion/timeline.html |title=History of Fashion in America Timeline of Important Dates |access-date=22 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110618140352/http://www.shmoop.com/history-american-fashion/timeline.html |archive-date=18 June 2011 |url-status=live }} Patents for underwire-type devices in bras were issued in 1931 and 1932, but were not widely adopted by manufacturers until after World War II when metal shortages eased.{{cite web |url=http://www.herroom.com/bra-styles,915,30.html |publisher=HerRoom.com |title=Bra Styles: Expert Bra Fitting Advice |first=Tomima |last=Edmark |access-date=24 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110623033512/http://www.herroom.com/bra-styles,915,30.html |archive-date=23 June 2011 |url-status=live }}
In the 1930s, Dunlop chemists were able to reliably transform rubber latex into elastic thread. After 1940, "whirlpool", or concentric stitching, was used to shape the cup structure of some designs.{{Cite web |url=http://angelasancartier.net/brassiere |title=Brassiere |publisher=Clothing and Fashion Encyclopedia |access-date=19 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101129043157/http://angelasancartier.net/brassiere |archive-date=29 November 2010 |url-status=live }} The synthetic fibres were quickly adopted by the industry because of their easy-care properties. Since a brassiere must be laundered frequently, easy-care fabric was in great demand.{{citation needed|date=April 2018}}
Consumer fitting
For best results, the breasts should be measured twice: once when standing upright, once bending over at the waist with the breasts hanging down.{{Cite web |title=How to measure your bra size yourself in Pakistan |url=https://aouvi.com/blogs/news/how-to-measure-bra-size |access-date=2023-02-16 |website=AOUVI |language=en |archive-date=16 February 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230216180837/https://aouvi.com/blogs/news/how-to-measure-bra-size |url-status=dead }} If the difference between these two measurements is more than 10 cm, then the average is chosen for calculating the cup size.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} A number of reports, surveys and studies in different countries have found that between 80% and 85% of women wear incorrectly fitted bras.{{sfn|Wood|Cameron|Fitzgerald|2008}}{{Unreliable source?|date=June 2016}}
In November 2005, Oprah Winfrey produced a show devoted to bras and bra sizes, during which she talked about research that eight out of ten women wear the wrong size bra.{{Cite web|url=http://www.oprah.com/dated/oprahshow/oprahshow_20050520|title=Oprah Winfrey: Oprah's Bra and Swimsuit Intervention|date=20 May 2005|access-date=13 February 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090213180850/http://www.oprah.com/dated/oprahshow/oprahshow_20050520|archive-date=13 February 2009|url-status=live}}
=Larger breasts and bra fit=
File:Scarlett self photo 30E.jpg
Studies have revealed that the most common mistake made by women when selecting a bra was to choose too large a back band and too small a cup, for example, 38C instead of 34E, or 34B instead of 30D.{{cite news |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/health/main.jhtml?xml=/health/2003/04/14/htest14d.xml |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130114022716/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/health/main.jhtml?xml=/health/2003/04/14/htest14d.xml |url-status=dead |archive-date=14 January 2013 |title=A Weight off my shoulders |access-date=4 January 2011 | location=London |work=The Daily Telegraph |first=Barbara |last=Lantin |date=14 April 2003}}{{cite web |url=https://www.royalfree.nhs.uk/default.aspx?top_nav_id=2&tab_id=15&sel_left_nav=20&news_id=430 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081113001221/http://www.royalfree.nhs.uk/default.aspx?top_nav_id=2&tab_id=15&sel_left_nav=20&news_id=430 |url-status=dead |archive-date=13 November 2008 |title=Bravissimo sizes up staff – Royal Free Hampstead }}
The heavier a person's build, the more difficult it is to obtain accurate measurements, as measuring tape sinks into the flesh more easily.{{sfn|Greenbaum|Heslop|Morris|Dunn|2003}}
In a study conducted in the United Kingdom of 103 women seeking mammoplasty, researchers found a strong link between obesity and inaccurate back measurement. They concluded that "obesity, breast hypertrophy, fashion and bra-fitting practices combine to make those women who most need supportive bras the least likely to get accurately fitted bras."{{sfn|Greenbaum|Heslop|Morris|Dunn|2003}}
One issue that complicates finding a correctly fitting bra is that band and cup sizes are not standardized, but vary considerably from one manufacturer to another, resulting in sizes that only provide an approximate fit.{{Cite web|url=http://www.knickersblog.com/top-five-bra-sizing-myths/699|title=Top Five Bra-Sizing Myths|publisher=Knickers: The lingerie blog|access-date=29 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100729100600/http://www.knickersblog.com/top-five-bra-sizing-myths/699|archive-date=29 July 2010|url-status=live}}{{Cite web |url=http://www.herroom.com/bra-fitting-advice,901,30.html |title=Everything You Need to Know About Bra Fitting |publisher=HerRoom.com |access-date=28 May 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100421222603/http://www.herroom.com/bra-fitting-advice,901,30.html |archive-date=21 April 2010 |url-status=live }} Women cannot rely on labeled bra sizes to identify a bra that fits properly.{{Cite web|url=http://www.wizardofbras.com/CupSizeChart.aspx|title=Cup Size Chart|publisher=The Wizard of Bras|access-date=28 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100407093403/http://www.wizardofbras.com/CupSizeChart.aspx|archive-date=7 April 2010|url-status=live}}{{Cite web | url=http://www.herroom.com/full-figure-bra-cup-sizing,905,30.html | title=The Proper Measuring Techniques for Plus-Size Women | publisher=HerRoom.com | access-date=28 May 2010 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100526071437/http://www.herroom.com/full-figure-bra-cup-sizing,905,30.html | archive-date=26 May 2010 | url-status=live | df=dmy-all }} Scientific studies show that the current system of bra sizing may be inaccurate.{{sfn|Zhenga|Yu|Fan|2007}}
Manufacturers cut their bras differently, so, for example, two 34B bras from two companies may not fit the same person.{{Cite web |url=http://drdiana.localsocialconnexion.com/2010/11/02/a-bra-that%E2%80%99s-a-little-off-can-cause-big-problems/ |title=A bra that's a little off can cause big problems |first=Mario |last=Diana |access-date=19 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110620165505/http://drdiana.localsocialconnexion.com/2010/11/02/a-bra-that%E2%80%99s-a-little-off-can-cause-big-problems/ |archive-date=20 June 2011 |url-status=dead }} Customers should pay attention to which sizing system is used by the manufacturer. The main difference is in how cup sizes increase, by 2 cm or 1 inch (= 2.54 cm, see below). Some French manufacturers also increase cup sizes by 3 cm.{{cite web| url=http://www.busenfreundinnen.net| title=Alles über verschiedene Größensysteme| access-date=7 September 2018| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110223034303/http://busenfreundinnen.net/| archive-date=23 February 2011| url-status=live| df=dmy-all}} Unlike dress sizes, manufacturers do not agree on a single standard.
British bras currently range from A to LL cup size (with Rigby&Peller recently introducing bras by Elila which go up to US-N-Cup), while most Americans can find bras with cup sizes ranging from A to G. Some brands (Goddess, Elila) go as high as N, a size roughly equal to a British JJ-Cup. In continental Europe, Milena Lingerie from Poland produces up to cup R.
Larger sizes are usually harder to find in retail outlets. As the cup size increases, the labeled cup size of different manufacturers' bras tend to vary more widely in actual volume. One study found that the label size was consistently different from the measured size.{{sfnm|1a1=Greenbaum|1a2=Heslop|1a3=Morris|1a4=Dunn|1y=2003|2a1=Pechter|2y=1998}}
Even medical studies have attested to the difficulty of getting a correct fit.{{sfn|McGhee|Steele|2006}} Research by plastic surgeons has suggested that bra size is imprecise because breast volume is not calculated accurately:
{{blockquote|text=The current popular system of determining bra size is inaccurate so often as to be useless. Add to this the many different styles of bras and the lack of standardization between brands, and one can see why finding a comfortable, well-fitting bra is more a matter of educated guesswork, trial, and error than of precise measurements.{{sfnm |1a1=Pechter |1y=1998 |2a1=Ringberg |2a2=Bågeman|2a3=Rose|2a4=Ingvar|2y=2006}}}}
The use of the cup sizing and band measurement systems has evolved over time and continues to change. Experts recommend that women get fitted by an experienced person at a retailer offering the widest possible selection of bra sizes and brands.
= Bad bra-fit symptoms =
If the straps dig into the shoulder, leaving red marks or causing shoulder or neck pain, the bra band is not offering enough support. If breast tissue overflows the bottom of the bra, under the armpit, or over the top edge of the bra cup, the cup size is too small. Loose fabric in the bra cup indicates the cup size is too big.{{Cite web |url=http://www.life123.com/beauty/style/bra-shopping/bra-size.shtml |title=Signs of the Wrong Bra Size |publisher=Life123 |access-date=26 June 2010 |first=Aysha |last=Schurman |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110713204437/http://www.life123.com/beauty/style/bra-shopping/bra-size.shtml |archive-date=13 July 2011 |url-status=dead }} If the underwires poke the breast under the armpit or if the bra's center panel does not lie flat against the sternum,{{cite web |url=http://www.belladonnaeyes.co.uk/bra_fitting_part_01.htm |title=Bra Fitting Guide |publisher=Belladonna Eyes |access-date=26 June 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100227034327/http://www.belladonnaeyes.co.uk/bra_fitting_part_01.htm |archive-date=27 February 2010 |url-status=dead }} the cup size is too small. If the band rides up the torso at the back, the band size is too big. If it digs into the flesh, causing the flesh to spill over the edges of the band, the band is too small.{{cite web|url=http://www.fantasie.com/advice/ask_the_experts.aspx|title=Lingerie Bra Fitting Video|publisher=Fantasie|access-date=28 January 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101227102426/http://www.fantasie.com/advice/ask_the_experts.aspx|archive-date=27 December 2010|url-status=live}} If the band feels tight, this may be due to the cups being too small; instead of going up in band size a person should try going up in cup size. Similarly a band might feel too loose if the cup is too big. It is possible to test whether a bra band is too tight or too loose by reversing the bra on her torso so that the cups are at the back and then check for fit and comfort. Generally, if the wearer must continually adjust the bra or experiences general discomfort, the bra is a poor fit and she should get a new fitting.{{Cite web|url=http://www.busenfreundinnen.net|title=Bra fitting tips from the German bra fitting forum www.busenfreundinnen.net|publisher=busenfreundinnen.net|access-date=11 February 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110223034303/http://busenfreundinnen.net/|archive-date=23 February 2011|url-status=live}}
= Obtaining best fit =
Bra experts recommend that women, especially those whose cup sizes are D or larger, get a professional bra fitting from the lingerie department of a clothing store or a specialty lingerie store.{{Cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/doreen-the-bra-that-conquered-the-world-492762.html|last=King|first=Stephanie|title=A Short History of Lingerie: Doreen the Bra That Conquered the World|work=The Independent|date=2 June 2005|location=London|access-date=19 September 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171004084753/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/doreen-the-bra-that-conquered-the-world-492762.html|archive-date=4 October 2017|url-status=live}} However, even professional bra fitters in different countries including New Zealand{{Cite web |date=April 2022 |title=How to measure a bra |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxzy4tyBSLI&ab_channel=Shyaway |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220404061311/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxzy4tyBSLI&ab_channel=Shyaway |archive-date=4 April 2022 |website=YouTube}}[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxzy4tyBSLI&ab_channel=Shyaway] and the United Kingdom{{Cite web |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/2004_37_wed_02.shtml |title=BBC Radio 4 Woman's Hour – Bras |access-date=28 December 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090403230830/http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/2004_37_wed_02.shtml |archive-date=3 April 2009 |url-status=live }} produce inconsistent measurements of the same person. There is significant heterogeneity in breast shape, density, and volume. As such, current methods of bra fitting may be insufficient for this range of chest morphology.
A 2004 study by Consumers Reports in New Zealand found that 80% of department store bra fittings resulted in a poor fit.{{Cite web|title=Which? Report – Bra fitting services|date=1 September 2004|url=http://www.consumer.org.nz/reports/bra-fitting-services/good-fit|access-date=13 February 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100218093948/http://www.consumer.org.nz/reports/bra-fitting-services/good-fit|archive-date=18 February 2010|url-status=dead}} However, because manufacturer's standards widely vary, women cannot rely on their own measurements to obtain a satisfactory fit.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} Some bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on and learning to recognize a properly fitting bra is the best way to determine a correct bra size, much like shoes.
A correctly fitting bra should meet the following criteria:{{cite web |last1=Torgerson |first1=Rachel |title=All the Expert Bra Fit Tips and Tricks That You Should Know, Like, Yesterday |url=https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/advice/a6792/bra-fit-tips-and-tricks/ |website=Cosmopolitan |access-date=20 September 2018 |date=25 April 2018}}{{cite web |title=11 Factors That'll Make You Think Twice About Wearing A Bra |url=https://www.elle.com/uk/life-and-culture/culture/a22322591/braless-benefits/ |website=ELLE |access-date=20 September 2018 |date=20 July 2018}}
- When viewed from the side, the edge of the chest band should be horizontal, should not ride up the back and should be firm but comfortable.
- Each cup's underwire at the front should lie flat against the sternum (not the breast), along the inframammary fold, and should not dig into the chest or the breasts, rub or poke out at the front.
- The breasts should be enclosed by the cups and there should be a smooth line where the fabric at the top of the cup ends.
- The apex of the breast, the nipple, must be in the center of the cup.
- The breast should not bulge over the top or out the sides of the cups, even with a low-cut style such as the balconette bra.
- The straps of a correctly fitted bra should not dig into or slip off the shoulder, which suggests a too-large band.
- The back of the bra should not ride up and the chest band should remain parallel to the floor when viewed from the back.
- The breasts should be supported primarily by the band around the rib cage, rather than by the shoulder straps.
- The woman should be able to breathe and move easily without the bra slipping around.
=Confirming bra fit=
One method to confirm that the bra is the best fit has been nicknamed the Swoop and Scoop. After identifying a well-fitting bra, the woman bends forward (the swoop), allowing her breasts to fall into the bra, filling the cup naturally, and then fastening the bra on the outermost set of hooks.{{cite web|last1=Bailly|first1=Jenny|title=The 4 Biggest Bra Shopping Mistakes|url=http://www.oprah.com/style/Bra-Shopping-Mistakes-Are-You-Wearing-the-Right-Bra|access-date=14 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151106225423/http://www.oprah.com/style/Bra-Shopping-Mistakes-Are-You-Wearing-the-Right-Bra|archive-date=6 November 2015|url-status=live}}{{cite web|title=10 Bra Mistakes You're Probably Making (And How To Fix Them)|website=HuffPost |url=https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/09/05/bra-mistakes-fix_n_3854055.html|access-date=14 September 2015|date=5 August 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150917011933/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/09/05/bra-mistakes-fix_n_3854055.html|archive-date=17 September 2015|url-status=live}} When the woman stands up, she uses the opposite hand to place each breast gently into the cup (the scoop), and she then runs her index finger along the inside top edge of the bra cup to make sure her breast tissue does not spill over the edges.{{cite web |url=http://www.freyaactive.com/active_in_motion/swoop_and_scoop.aspx |title=Swoop and Scoop |publisher=Freya | access-date=28 January 2011}}
Experts suggest that women choose a bra band that fits well on the outermost hooks. This allows the wearer to use the tighter hooks on the bra strap as it stretches during its lifetime of about eight months. The band should be tight enough to support the bust, but the straps should not provide the primary support.{{cite web |url=https://www.lacyhint.com/blog/my-guide-to-choosing-the-right-bra-size/ |title=Bra Size Guide |publisher=Lacy Hint |access-date=23 July 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150724032807/https://www.lacyhint.com/blog/my-guide-to-choosing-the-right-bra-size/ |archive-date=24 July 2015 |url-status=live }}
Consumer measurement difficulties
A bra is one of the most complicated articles of clothing to make. A typical bra design has between 20 and 48 parts, including the band, hooks, cups, lining, and straps. Major retailers place orders from manufacturers in batches of 10,000. Orders of this size require a large-scale operation to manage the cutting, sewing and packing required.{{cite web|last1=Watson|first1=Noshua|title=MAS Holdings: Strategic Corporate Social Responsibility in the Apparel Industry|url=http://www.unprme.org/reports/masholdingsfinalinseadcasefeb28th2006.pdf|publisher=INSEAD|access-date=1 July 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160108235002/http://www.unprme.org/reports/masholdingsfinalinseadcasefeb28th2006.pdf|archive-date=8 January 2016|url-status=live}}
Constructing a properly fitting brassiere is difficult. Adelle Kirk, formerly a manager at the global Kurt Salmon management consulting firm that specializes in the apparel and retail businesses, said that making bras is complex:
{{blockquote|Bras are one of the most complex pieces of apparel. There are lots of different styles, and each style has a dozen different sizes, and within that there are a lot of colors. Furthermore, there is a lot of product engineering. You've got hooks, you've got straps, there are usually two parts to every cup, and each requires a heavy amount of sewing. It is very component intensive.{{cite web|first1=Matthew|last1=Moberg|first2=Jonathan|last2=Siskin|first3=Barry|last3=Stern|first4=Ru|last4=Wu|title=Sara Lee: Wonderbra|url=http://www-personal.umich.edu/~afuah/cases/case15.html|publisher=University of Michigan Business School|access-date=29 November 2012|year=1999|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131111060318/http://www-personal.umich.edu/~afuah/cases/case15.html|archive-date=11 November 2013|url-status=live|df=dmy-all}} }}
= Asymmetric breasts =
Obtaining the correct size is complicated by the fact that up to 25% of women's breasts display a persistent, visible breast asymmetry,{{cite web | url=http://www.mgh.harvard.edu/children/adolescenthealth/articles/aa_breast_development.aspx |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090807124147/http://www.mgh.harvard.edu/children/adolescenthealth/articles/aa_breast_development.aspx |archive-date=7 August 2009 |title=Breast Development |publisher= Massachusetts Hospital for Children| access-date=2 June 2010}} which is defined as differing in size by at least one cup size. For about 5% to 10% of women, their breasts are severely different, with the left breast being larger in 62% of cases.{{cite journal
|last1=Losken
|first1=Albert
|last2=Fishman
|first2=Inessa
|last3=Denson
|first3=Donald D.
|last4=Moyer
|first4=Hunter R.
|last5=Carlson
|first5=Grant W.
|year=2005
|title=An Objective Evaluation of Breast Symmetry and Shape Differences Using 3-Dimensional Images
|journal=Annals of Plastic Surgery
|volume=55
|issue=6
|pages=571–575
|doi=10.1097/01.sap.0000185459.49434.5f
|pmid=16327452
|s2cid=35994039
}} Minor asymmetry may be resolved by wearing a padded bra, but severe cases of developmental breast deformity — commonly called "Amazon's Syndrome" by physicians — may require corrective surgery due to morphological alterations caused by variations in shape, volume, position of the breasts relative to the inframammary fold, the position of the nipple-areola complex on the chest, or both.{{sfnm|1a1=Araco|1a2=Gravante|1a3=Araco|1a4=Gentile|1y=2006|2a1=Wieslander|2y=1999}}
= Breast volume variation =
Obtaining the correct size is further complicated by the fact that the size and shape of women's breasts change, if they experience menstrual cycles, during the cycle{{sfn|Wood|Cameron|Fitzgerald|2008}} and can experience unusual or unexpectedly rapid growth in size due to pregnancy, weight gain or loss, or medical conditions. Even breathing can substantially alter the measurements.{{sfn|McGhee|Steele|2006}}
Some women's breasts can change shape by as much as 20% per month:
{{blockquote|"Breasts change shape quite consistently on a month-to-month basis, but they will individually change their volume by a different amount ... Some girls will change less than 10% and other girls can change by as much as 20%." Would it be better not to wear a bra at all then? "... In fact there are very few advantages in wearing existing bras. Having a bra that's generally supportive would have significant improvement particularly in terms of stopping them going south ...The skin is what gives the breasts their support."{{Cite news|last=Ghost|first=Sarah|title=Support Act|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/leicester/realmedia/2007/11/bras.ram|format=Real Audio Media|access-date=16 May 2011|newspaper=BBC|date=14 November 2007}}}}
= Increases in average bra size =
In 2010, the most common bra size sold in the UK was 36D.{{cite web |url=http://www.ivillage.co.uk/beauty/promotions/articles/0,,628687_694143,00.html |title=Are you wearing the right bra size? |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080917025215/http://www.ivillage.co.uk/beauty/promotions/articles/0%2C%2C628687_694143%2C00.html |archive-date=17 September 2008 }} In 2004, market research company Mintel reported that bust sizes in the United Kingdom had increased from 1998 to 2004 in younger as well as older consumers, while a more recent study showed that the most often sold bra size in the US in 2008 was 36D.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/09/fashion/09bra.html?_r=1&ref=fashion|title=Your Bra Size: The Truth May (Pleasantly) Surprise You|last=Holson|first=Laura M.|date=8 April 2009|work=New York Times|access-date=11 September 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180329194357/https://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/09/fashion/09bra.html?_r=1&ref=fashion|archive-date=29 March 2018|url-status=live}}
Researchers ruled out increases in population weight as the explanation and suggested it was instead likely due to more women wearing the correct, larger size.{{citation needed|date=January 2020}}
Consumer measurement methods
Bra retailers recommend several methods for measuring band and cup size. These are based on two primary methods, either under the bust or over the bust, and sometimes both. Calculating the correct bra band size is complicated by a variety of factors. The American National Standards Institute states that while a voluntary consensus of sizes exists, there is much confusion to the 'true' size of clothing.{{Cite news |title = "What's My Size?" Status Report on U.S. Clothing Size Standards and a Glimpse of the International Scene |url = http://www.ansi.org/news_publications/news_story.aspx?menuid=7&articleid=f0403053-83ac-4548-bbdf-21c3182e535d |location = New York |date = 24 July 2002 |access-date = 27 June 2015 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150629022419/http://www.ansi.org/news_publications/news_story.aspx?menuid=7&articleid=f0403053-83ac-4548-bbdf-21c3182e535d |archive-date = 29 June 2015 |url-status = live |df = dmy-all }} As a result, bra measurement can be considered an art and a science. Online shopping and in-person bra shopping experiences may differ because online recommendations are based on averages and in-person shopping can be completely personalized so the shopper may easily try on band sizes above and below her between measured band size. For the woman with a large cup size and a between band size, they may find their cup size is not available in local stores so may have to shop online where most large cup sizes are readily available on certain sites. Others recommend rounding to the nearest whole number.{{Cite web|url=http://www.clovia.com/bra-size-calculator/|title=Bra Fitting Guide|publisher=Clovia.com|access-date=31 March 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160331050129/http://www.clovia.com/bra-size-calculator/|archive-date=31 March 2016|url-status=live}}
= Band measurement methods =
There are several possible methods for measuring the bust.
== Underbust +0 ==
A measuring tape is pulled around the torso at the inframammary fold. The tape is then pulled tight while remaining horizontal and parallel to the floor. The measurement (in inches) is then rounded to the nearest even number for the band size.{{Cite web|title=Find Your Bra Size|url=http://www.barenecessities.com/fit_sizing.aspx|work=Bare Necessities|access-date=12 March 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110319085331/http://www.barenecessities.com/fit_sizing.aspx|archive-date=19 March 2011|url-status=live}}{{Cite web |title=How to Measure Bra Size |url=http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/bra-size |work=Women's Health Magazine (online) |access-date=12 March 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110225011832/http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/bra-size |archive-date=25 February 2011 }}{{Failed verification|date=January 2025|reason=Wrongly referenced in this section titled Underbust, both sources said the opposite: "across the top of your chest"}}{{As of|2018|03}}, Kohl's uses this method for its online fitting guide.{{Cite web|url = https://www.kohls.com/sale-event/womens-bras-underwear-clothing.jsp|title = Bra Fitting: Find your perfect fit calculator|access-date = 3 November 2018|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20181104035648/https://www.kohls.com/sale-event/womens-bras-underwear-clothing.jsp|archive-date = 4 November 2018|url-status = live|df = dmy-all}}
== Underbust +4 ==
This method begins the same way as the underbust +0 method, where a measuring tape is pulled tight around the torso under the bust while remaining horizontal. If the measurement (in inches) is even, 4 is added to calculate the band size. If it is odd, 5 is added. Kohl's used this method in 2013.{{Cite web|title = Bra Fitting: Free Professional Bra Fitting in Your Area (archived copy)|access-date = 3 November 2018|url = http://www.kohls.com/feature/brafit.jsp|date = 19 October 2013|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20131019191110/http://www.kohls.com/feature/brafit.jsp|archive-date = 19 October 2013|df = dmy-all}} The "war on plus four" was a name given to a campaign (circa 2011) against this method, with underbust +0 supporters claiming that the then-ubiquitous +4 method fails to fit a majority of women.{{cite web |title=Bra Fitting Formulas: Is the "War on Plus Four" the Answer? |url=https://www.thelingerieaddict.com/2012/01/bra-fitting-formulas-is-the-war-on-plus-four-the-answer.html |website=The Lingerie Addict – Expert Lingerie Advice, News, Trends & Reviews |access-date=4 November 2018 |date=27 January 2012}} Underbust +4 method generally only applies to the US and UK sizes.
==Sizing chart==
Currently, many large U.S. department stores determine band size by starting with the measurement taken underneath the bust similar to the aforementioned underbust +0 and underbust +4 methods. A sizing chart or calculator then uses this measurement to determine the band size.{{cite web |url=http://www.mybrasizecalculator.com |title=Calculate Your Bra Size |publisher=MBSC |access-date=1 May 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140508030541/http://www.mybrasizecalculator.com/ |archive-date=8 May 2014 |url-status=live }} Band sizes calculated using this method vary between manufacturers.
== Underarm/upper bust ==
A measuring tape is pulled around the torso under the armpit and above the bust. Because band sizes are most commonly manufactured in even numbers, the wearer must round to the closest even number.{{Cite web|url = http://www.victoriassecret.com/bras/how-to-measure|title = How to Measure Your Bra Size at Victoria's Secret|access-date = 13 September 2013|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20131105101643/http://www.victoriassecret.com/bras/how-to-measure|archive-date = 5 November 2013|url-status = live|df = dmy-all}}
= Cup measurement methods =
Bra-wearers can calculate their cup size by finding the difference between their bust size and their band size.{{Cite web|url=http://www.barenecessities.com/fit_sizing.aspx|title=Find Your Bra Size|publisher=BareNecessities.com|access-date=24 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100419081842/http://www.barenecessities.com/fit_sizing.aspx|archive-date=19 April 2010|url-status=live}} The bust size, bust line measure, or over-bust measure is the measurement around the torso over the fullest part of the breasts, with the crest of the breast halfway between the elbow and shoulder,{{cite AV media |title=How to Measure for Bra |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_h5-Ov5fm8 |publisher=HerRoom.com |author=Tomima Edmark |access-date=23 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100831163645/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_h5-Ov5fm8 |archive-date=31 August 2010 |url-status=live }} usually over the nipples,{{cite web |url=http://www.femaleontop.com/fashion/measuringbra.html |title=Measuring Breasts For Proper Bra Size |publisher=femaleontop.com |access-date=28 May 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100404011844/http://www.femaleontop.com/fashion/measuringbra.html |archive-date=4 April 2010 |url-status=live }} ideally while standing straight with arms to the side and wearing a properly fitted bra, because this practice assumes the current bra fits correctly. The measurements are made in the same units as the band size, either inches or centimetres. The cup size is calculated by subtracting the band size from the over-the-bust measurement.{{Cite web|url=http://www.dimensionsguide.com/bra-size-chart/|title=Bra Size Chart|publisher=DimensionsGuide.com|access-date=28 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100430021948/http://www.dimensionsguide.com/bra-size-chart/|archive-date=30 April 2010|url-status=dead}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.dimensionsguide.com/breast-sizes/|title=Breast Size Chart|publisher=DimensionsGuide.com|access-date=28 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100528152744/http://www.dimensionsguide.com/breast-sizes/|archive-date=28 May 2010|url-status=dead}}
= The meaning of cup sizes varies =
Cup sizes vary from one country to another. For example, a U.S. H-cup does not have the same size as an Australian, even though both are based on measurements in inches. The larger the cup size, the bigger the variation.{{Cite web|url=http://www.fredericks.com/Help79/Help79,default,pg.html|title=Frederick's of Hollywood – Bra Size Conversion Chart|publisher=Frederick's of Hollywood|access-date=28 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090527004326/http://www.fredericks.com/Help79/Help79,default,pg.html|archive-date=27 May 2009|url-status=dead}}
class="wikitable"
|+ Over the bust/band measurement difference and cup size {{Cite web|url=http://www.herroom.com/plus-size-bra-cup-size-cross-reference,949,30.html|title=HerRoom sizing chart|publisher=HerRoom.com|access-date=22 September 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120726070445/http://www.herroom.com/plus-size-bra-cup-size-cross-reference,949,30.html|archive-date=26 July 2012|url-status=live}}{{cite web|url=http://www.007b.com/bra-fitting.php|title=Bra fitting – how to find your right bra size?|publisher=007b.com|access-date=30 June 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160424032810/http://www.007b.com/bra-fitting.php|archive-date=24 April 2016|url-status=live}} | |||||||||||||||||||||
Difference | (inches) | <1 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | |
Cupsize | U.S. | AA | A | B | C | D | DD/E | DDD/F | DDDD/G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | |
Cupsize | Austr. | AA | A | B | C | D | DD | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | ||
Cupsize | UK | AA | A | B | C | D | DD | E | F | FF | G | GG | H | HH | J | JJ | K | KK | L | LL | M |
Surveys of bra sizes tend to be very dependent on the population studied and how it was obtained. For instance, one U.S. study reported that the most common size was 34B, followed by 34C, that 63% were size 34 and 39% cup size B. However, the survey sample was drawn from 103 Caucasian student volunteers at a Midwest U.S. university aged 18–25, and excluded pregnant and nursing women.{{sfn|Chen|LaBat|Bye|2010}}
class="wikitable sortable"
|+ Triumph Survey | ||||
Country | D | C | B | A |
---|---|---|---|---|
UK | 57% | 18% | 19% | 6% |
Denmark | 50% | 19% | 24% | 7% |
Netherlands | 36% | 27% | 29% | 8% |
Belgium | 28% | 28% | 35% | 9% |
France | 26% | 29% | 38% | 7% |
Sweden | 24% | 30% | 33% | 14% |
Greece | 23% | 28% | 40% | 9% |
Switzerland | 19% | 24% | 43% | 14% |
Austria | 11% | 27% | 51% | 10% |
Italy | 10% | 21% | 68% | 1% |
= Plastic Surgeon Measuring System =
class="wikitable floatright"
|+ Measuring cup size | |
colspan="2"| Measurement
! rowspan="2"| Cup size | |
---|---|
style="text-align:right;" | inch
! style="text-align:right;" | cm | |
{{convert|7.0|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | A |
{{convert|7.5|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | A |
{{convert|8.0|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | B |
{{convert|8.5|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | B |
{{convert|9.0|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | C |
{{convert|9.5|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | C |
{{convert|10.0|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | D |
{{convert|10.5|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | D |
{{convert|11.0|in|cm|sigfig=3|disp=table}} | DD |
Bra-wearers who have difficulty calculating a correct cup size may be able to find a correct fit using a method adopted by plastic surgeons. Using a flexible tape measure, position the tape at the outside of the chest, under the arm, where the breast tissue begins.{{cite web|title=Bra sizing and fitting procedure|url=https://laurensilva.com/bra-fitting-guide|website=Lauren Silva|access-date=2 November 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161103234319/https://laurensilva.com/bra-fitting-guide|archive-date=3 November 2016|url-status=live}} Measure across the fullest part of the breast, usually across the nipple, to where the breast tissue stops at the breast bone.
Conversion of the measurement to cup size is shown in the "Measuring cup size" table.{{cite web |url=http://www.wdxcyber.com/nbreast3.htm |title=Breast Asymmetry – When Does It Need Treatment? |access-date=2 June 2010 |author=Frederick R. Jelovsek |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120703041405/http://www.wdxcyber.com/nbreast3.htm |archive-date=3 July 2012 |url-status=dead }}
Note that, in general, countries that employ metric cup sizing (like in § Continental Europe) have their own system of {{convert|2|cm|in|abbr=on|adj=on}} increments that result in cup sizes which differ from those using inches, since {{convert|1|in|cm|sigfig=3}} does not equal {{convert|2|cm|in}}.{{citation needed|date=April 2018}}
These cup measurements are only correct for converting cup sizes for a {{convert|34|in|cm|adj=on}} band to cm using this particular method, because cup size is relative to band size.[https://stylespree.com/pages/bra-size-guide-how-to-measure-faqs-bra-size-calculator What's my bra size? Finding the Perfect Fit with our Bra Size Calculator]; URL accessed September 1, 2023. This principle means that bras of differing band size can have the same volume. For example, the cup volume is the same for 30D, 32C, 34B, and 36A. These related bra sizes of the same cup volume are called sister sizes. For a list of such sizes, refer to § Calculating cup volume and breast weight.
= Consumer fit research =
A 2012 study by White and Scurr University of Portsmouth compared method that adds 4 to the band size over-the-bust method used in many United Kingdom lingerie shops with and compared that to measurements obtained using a professional method.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} The study relied on the professional bra-fitting method described by McGhee and Steele (2010).{{sfn|McGhee|Steele|2010}} The study {{sfn|White|Scurr|2012}} utilized a five-step approach to obtain the best fitting bra size for an individual. The study measured 45 women using the traditional selection method that adds 4 to the band size over-the-bust method. Women tried bras on until they obtained the best fit based on professional bra fitting criteria. The researchers found that 76% of women overestimated their band and 84% underestimated their cup size. When women wear bras with too big a band, breast support is reduced. Too small a cup size may cause skin irritation. They noted that "ill-fitting bras and insufficient breast support can lead to the development of musculoskeletal pain and inhibit women participating in physical activity.".White, J.; Scurr, J. (2012) The study recommended that women should be educated about the criteria for finding a well-fitting bra.{{sfn|White|Scurr|2012}} They recommended that women measure under their bust to determine their band size rather than the traditional over the bust measurement method.{{sfn|White|Scurr|2012}}
Manufacturer design standards
Bra-labeling systems used around the world are at times misleading and confusing. Cup and band sizes vary around the world.{{Cite web |url=http://www.figleaves.com/uk/fitting_room.asp?cat=129&txt=2679 |title=Figleaves.com fitting room |access-date=8 January 2007 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070117124528/http://www.figleaves.com/uk/fitting_room.asp?cat=129&txt=2679 |archive-date=17 January 2007 |url-status=dead }} In countries that have adopted the European EN 13402 dress-size standard, the torso is measured in centimetres and rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm. Bra-fitting experts in the United Kingdom state that many women who buy off the rack without professional assistance wear up to two sizes too small.{{citation needed|date=January 2020}}
Manufacturer Fruit of the Loom attempted to solve the problem of finding a well-fitting bra for asymmetrical breasts by introducing Pick Your Perfect Bra, which allow women to choose a bra with two different cup sizes, although it is only available in A through D cup sizes.{{cite web |url=http://www.pickyourperfectpairbras.com/learn_about.html |title=Pick Your Perfect Pair Bras: Learn About Pick Your Perfect Pair Bras |access-date=30 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110628140810/http://www.pickyourperfectpairbras.com/learn_about.html |archive-date=28 June 2011 |url-status=live }}
class="wikitable"
|+ Approximate (band) size equivalents between various systems ! Under bust (cm) ! 58–62 | 63–67 | 68–72 | 73–77 | 78–82 | 83–87 | 88–92 | 93–97 | 98–102 | 103–107 | 108–112 | 113–117 | 118–122 | 123–127 | 128–132 | 133–137 | 138–142 |
Under bust (in)
| 24–25 || 26–27 || 28–29 || 30–31 || 32–33 || 34–35 || 36–37 || 38–39 || 40–41 || 42–43 || 44–45 || 46–47 || 48–49 || 50–51 || 52–53 ||54–55 ||56–57 | ||||||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
EU, Iran
| 60 || 65 || 70 || 75 || 80 || 85 || 90 || 95 || 100 || 105 || 110 || 115 || 120 || 125 || 130 || 135 || 140 | ||||||||||||||||
FR, BE, ES
| 75 || 80 || 85 || 90 || 95 || 100 || 105 || 110 || 115 || 120 || 125 || 130 || 135 || 140 || 145 || 150 || 155 | ||||||||||||||||
IT
| 0 || 1 || 2 || 3 || 4 || 5 || 6 || 7 || 8 || 9 || 10 || 11 || 12 || 13 || 14 || 15 || 16 | ||||||||||||||||
US, UK, PT
| 28 || 30 || 32 || 34 || 36 || 38 || 40 || 42 || 44 || 46 || 48 || 50 || 52 || 54 || 56 || 58 || 60 | ||||||||||||||||
UK, RoI, PT
| 24 || 26 || 28 || 30 || 32 || 34 || 36 || 38 || 40 || 42 || 44 || 46 || 48 || 50 || 52 || 54 || 56 | ||||||||||||||||
AU, NZ
| 6 || 8 || 10 || 12 || 14 || 16 || 18 || 20 || 22 || 24 || 26 || 28 || 30 || 32 || 34 || 36 || 38 | ||||||||||||||||
UK dress
| 4 || 6 || 8 || 10 || 12 || 14 || 16 || 18 || 20 || 22 || 24 || 26 || 28 || 30 || 32 || 34 || 36 |
One very prominent discrepancy between the sizing systems is the fact that the US band sizes, based on inches, does not correspond to its centimeter based EU counterpart.
There are several sizing systems in different countries.
Cup size is determined by one of two methods: in the US and UK, increasing cup size every inch method; and in all other systems by increasing cup size for every two centimeters. Since one inch equals 2.54 centimeters, there is considerable discrepancy between the systems, which becomes more exaggerated as cup sizes increase. Many bras are only available in 36 sizes.
= UK =
The UK and US use the inch system. The difference in chest circumference between the cup sizes is always one inch, or 2.54 cm. The difference between 2 band sizes is 2 inches or 5.08 cm.
Leading brands and manufacturers including Panache, Bestform, Gossard, Freya, Curvy Kate, Bravissimo and Fantasie, which use the British standard band sizes (where underbust measurement equals band size) 28-30-32-34-36-38-40-42-44, and so on. Cup sizes are designated by AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-FF-G-GG-H-HH-J-JJ-K-KK-L.{{Cite web|url=http://thebraguide.com/how-to-measure-your-bra-size/#uksizing|title=How To Properly Measure Your Bra Size|access-date=13 May 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160422211029/http://thebraguide.com/how-to-measure-your-bra-size/#uksizing|archive-date=22 April 2016|url-status=live}}
However, some clothing retailers and mail order companies have their own house brands and use a custom sizing system. Marks and Spencers uses AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-G-GG-H-J, leaving out FF and HH, in addition to following the US band sizing convention. As a result, their J-Cup is equal to a British standard H-cup.{{Citation needed|date=February 2011}} Evans and ASDA sell bras (ASDA as part of their George clothing range) whose sizing runs A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-G-H. Their H-Cup is roughly equal to a British standard G-cup.{{Citation needed|date=February 2011}}
Some retailers reserve AA for young teens, and use AAA{{cite web|url=http://www.littlewomen.com/aaa-bras|title=32 34 36 38 40 AAA Bras and Small Lingerie at Little Women.|access-date=2 June 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130526014329/http://www.littlewomen.com/aaa-bras|archive-date=26 May 2013|url-status=live}}{{cite web|url=http://www.daintylady.co.uk|title=Exclusive collection of small bras – A Cup Bras, AA Cup Bras, AAA Cup Bras and also AAAA Cup Bras|publisher=daintylady.co.uk|access-date=29 June 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160622002456/http://www.daintylady.co.uk/|archive-date=22 June 2016|url-status=live}}{{cite web|url=http://www.lulalu.com|title=Petite Lingerie and Small Bra Sizes AAA, AA and A Cup Bras|publisher=lulalu.com|access-date=29 June 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160823044505/https://lulalu.com/|archive-date=23 August 2016|url-status=live}} for women.
= Australia/New Zealand =
Australia and New Zealand cup and band sizes are in metric increases of 2 cm per cup similar to many European brands. Cup labelling methods and sizing schemes are inconsistent and there is great variability between brands. In general, cup sizes AA-DD follow UK labels but thereafter split off from this system and employ European labels (no double letters with cups progressing from F-G-H etc. for every 2 cm increase).{{Cite news|url=https://www.berlei.com.au/size-charts|title=Australian Bra Sizes {{!}} Size Charts and Bra Fitting – BERLEI|work=Berlei Australia|access-date=26 January 2018|language=en|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180126185400/https://www.berlei.com.au/size-charts|archive-date=26 January 2018|url-status=live}} However, a great many local manufacturers employ unique labelling systems{{Cite news|url=https://au.cakematernity.com/how-to-measure-bra-size|title=How to Measure Maternity Bra Size – Fitting Guide & Calculator|work=Cake Maternity AU|access-date=26 January 2018|language=en-US|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180126185910/https://au.cakematernity.com/how-to-measure-bra-size|archive-date=26 January 2018|url-status=live}} Australia and New Zealand bra band sizes are labelled in dress size, although they are obtained by under bust measurement whilst dress sizes utilise bust-waist-hip.{{cite web |url=http://busenfreundinnen.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=314 |title=Alles über verschiedene Größensysteme |publisher=Busenfreundinnen |access-date=12 February 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101115213912/http://busenfreundinnen.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=314 |archive-date=15 November 2010 |url-status=live }} In practice very few of the leading Australian manufacturers produce sizes F+ and many disseminate sizing misinformation.{{Cite web|url=https://www.bravalingerie.com.au/content/55-bra-size-converter|title=Bra size converter – Australian bras size conversion chart – Brava Lingerie|website=Brava Lingerie|access-date=26 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180126185347/https://www.bravalingerie.com.au/content/55-bra-size-converter|archive-date=26 January 2018|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.brasnthings.com/size-guide/international-bra-size-conversion|title=Bra Size Chart {{!}} International Size Conversion – Bras N Things Australia|website=www.brasnthings.com|language=en|access-date=26 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170826023942/http://www.brasnthings.com/size-guide/international-bra-size-conversion|archive-date=26 August 2017|url-status=live}} The Australian demand for DD+ is largely met by various UK, US and European major brands. This has introduced further sizing scheme confusion that is poorly understood even by specialist retailers.[https://web.archive.org/web/20180126185231/https://www.bravalingerie.com.au/content/79-bra-size-chart?content_only=1]
= United States =
Bra sizing in the United States is very similar to the United Kingdom. Band sizes use the same designation in inches and the cups also increase by 1-inch-steps. However, some manufacturers use conflicting sizing methods. Some label bras beyond a C cup as D-DD-DDD-DDDD-E-EE-EEE-EEEE-F..., some use the variation: D1, D2, D3, D4, D5..... but many use the following system: A, B, C, D, DD, DDD, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O. and others label them like the British system D-DD-E-F-FF... Comparing the larger cup sizes between different manufacturers can be difficult.{{Citation needed|date=February 2011}}
In 2013, underwear maker Jockey International offered a new way to measure bra and cup size. It introduced a system with ten cup sizes per band size that are numbered and not lettered, designated as 1–36, 2–36 etc. The company developed the system over eight years, during which they scanned and measured the breasts and torsos of 800 women. Researchers also tracked the women's use of their bras at home.{{cite news|last=Clifford|first=Stephanie|title=A New Step in Wrestling With the Bra|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/31/business/a-new-step-in-wrestling-with-the-brhtml|newspaper=The New York Times|date=31 May 2013|access-date=31 May 2013}} To implement the system, women must purchase a set of plastic cups from the company to find their Jockey cup size. Some analysts were critical of the requirement to buy the measurement kit, since women must pay about US$20 to adopt Jockey's proprietary system, in addition to the cost of the bras themselves.
= Europe / International =
class="wikitable zebra" align=right
|+ Band size !style="width:6em;" title="measured"| Underbust circumference !style="width:4em;"| Bust size !colspan=3 style="width:4em;"| Underbust size | ||||
cm
!title="France, Belgium, Spain"| FR/BE/ES !title="Europe"| EU !colspan=2 title="Italy"| IT | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
58–62 | 75 | 60 | 0 | |
63–67 | 80 | 65 | 1 | I |
68–72 | 85 | 70 | 2 | II |
73–77 | 90 | 75 | 3 | III |
78–82 | 95 | 80 | 4 | IV, IIII |
83–87 | 100 | 85 | 5 | V |
88–92 | 105 | 90 | 6 | VI |
93–97 | 110 | 95 | 7 | VII |
98–102 | 115 | 100 | 8 | VIII |
103–107 | 120 | 105 | 9 | IX, VIIII |
108–112 | 125 | 110 | 10 | X |
European bra sizes are based on centimeters. They are also known as International. Abbreviations such as EU, Intl and Int are all referring to the same European bra size convention. These sizes are used in most of Europe and large parts of the world.
class="wikitable zebra" align=right
|+ Cup size !style="width:5em;" title="Bust minus underbust circumference"| Difference [cm] !style="width:3em"| Cup | |
10–12 | AA |
12–14 | A |
14–16 | B |
16–18 | C |
18–20 | D |
20–22 | E |
22–24 | F |
24–26 | G |
26–28 | H |
The underbust measurement is rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm. Band sizes run 65, 70, 75, 80 etc., increasing in steps of 5 cm, similar to the English double inch. A person with a measured underbust circumference of 78–82 cm should wear a band size 80. The tightness or snugness of the measurement (e.g. a tape measure or similar) depends on the adipose tissue softness. Softer tissue require tightening when measuring, this to ensure that the bra band will fit snugly on the body and stay in place. A loose measurement can, and often does, vary from the tighter measurement. This causes some confusion as a person with a loose measurement of 84 cm would think they have band size 85 but due to a lot of soft tissue the same person might have a snugger and tighter and of 79 cm and should choose the more appropriate band size of 80 or even smaller band size.
The cup labels begin normally with "A" for an 13±1 cm difference between bust and underbust circumference measurement measured loosely (i.e. not tightly as for bra band size), i.e. the not between bust circumference and band size (that normally require some tightening when measured).To clarify the important difference in measuring: Underbust measuring for bra band is done snugly and tight while measuring underbust for determining bra cups is done loosely. For people with much soft adipose tissue these two measurements will not be identical. In this sense the method to determine European sizes differ compared to English systems where the cup sizes are determined by bust measurement compared to bra band size. European cups increase for every additional 2 cm in difference between bust and underbust measurement, instead of 2.5 cm or 1-inch, and except for the initial cup size letters are neither doubled nor skipped. In very large cup sizes this causes smaller cups than their English counterparts.
This system has been standardized in the European dress size standard EN 13402 introduced in 2006, but was in use in many European countries before that date.
= South Korea/Japan =
In South Korea and Japan the torso is measured in centimetres and rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm. Band sizes run 65-70-75-80..., increasing in steps of 5 cm, similar to the English double inch. A person with a loosely measured underbust circumference of 78–82 cm should wear a band size 80.
The cup labels begin with "AAA" for a 5±1.25 cm difference between bust and underbust circumference, i.e. similar bust circumference and band size as in the English systems. They increase in steps of 2.5 cm, and except for the initial cup size letters are neither doubled nor skipped.
Japanese sizes are the same as Korean ones, but the cup labels begin with "AA" for a 7.5±1.25 cm difference and usually precedes the bust designation, i.e. "B75" instead of "75B".
This system has been standardized in the Korea dress size standard KS K9404 introduced in 1999 and in Japan dress size standard JIS L4006 introduced in 1998.
= France/Belgium/Spain =
The French and Spanish system is a permutation of the Continental European sizing system. While cup sizes are the same, band sizes are exactly 15 cm larger than the European band size.
= Italy =
The Italian band size uses small consecutive integers instead of the underbust circumference rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm. Since it starts with size 0 for European size 60, the conversion consists of a division by 5 and then a subtraction of 12. The size designations are often given in Roman numerals.
Cup sizes have traditionally used a step size of 2.5 cm, which is close to the English inch of 2.54 cm, and featured some double letters for large cups, but in recent years some Italian manufacturers have switched over to the European 2-cm system.
Here is a conversion table for bra sizes in Italy with respect other countries:
class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"
!Italy | I | II | III | IV | V | VI | VII | VIII |
Europe
|65||70||75||80||85||90||95||100 | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
UK & USA
| 30||32||34||36||38||40||42||44 | |||||||
France & Spain
|80||85||90||95||100||105||110||115 |
= Advertising and retail influence =
Manufacturers' marketing and advertising often appeals to fashion and image over fit, comfort, and function.{{sfn|McGhee|Steele|2006}}{{Cite web|url=http://reports.mintel.com/sinatra/reports/display/id=125741|title=Bras and Pants|publisher=Mintel International Group Ltd.|date=2005|access-date=27 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101109092316/http://reports.mintel.com/sinatra/reports/display/id=125741|archive-date=9 November 2010|url-status=live}} Since about 1994, manufacturers have re-focused their advertising, moving from advertising functional brassieres that emphasize support and foundation, to selling lingerie that emphasize fashion while sacrificing basic fit and function, like linings under scratchy lace.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2004/02/13/opinion/13SEIG.html|title=The Cups Runneth Over|last=Seigel|first=Jessica|date=13 February 2004|work=New York Times|access-date=26 April 2010|location=New York|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423163138/http://www.nytimes.com/2004/02/13/opinion/13SEIG.html|archive-date=23 April 2009|url-status=live}}
= Engineered Alternative to traditional bras =
English mechanical engineer and professor John Tyrer from Loughborough University has devised a solution to problematic bra fit by re-engineering bra design. He started investigating the problem of bra design while on an assignment from the British government after his wife returned disheartened from an unsuccessful shopping trip.{{Cite web|url=http://www.jessicaseigel.com/articles/bent-out-of-shape|title=Jessica Seigel. Bent out of shape: Why is it so hard to find the perfect bra?|publisher=Lifetime Magazine|date=May–June 2003|access-date=13 January 2025|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110818230136/http://jessicaseigel.com/articles/bra.shtml|archive-date=18 August 2011|url-status=live}} His initial research into the extent of fitting problems soon revealed that {{nowrap|80%}} of women wear the wrong size of bra.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}}. He theorised that this widespread practice of purchasing the wrong size was due to the measurement system recommended by bra manufacturers. This sizing system employs a combination of maximum chest diameter (under bust) and maximum bust diameter (bust) rather than the actual breast volume which is to be accommodated by the bra. According to Tyrer, "to get the most supportive and fitted bra it's infinitely better if you know the volume of the breast and the size of the back.". He says the A, B, C, D cup measurement system is flawed. "It's like measuring a motor car by the diameter of the gas cap." "The whole design is fundamentally flawed. It's an instrument of torture." Tyrer has developed a bra design with crossed straps in the back.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} These use the weight of one breast to lift the other using counterbalance.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} Standard designs constrict chest movement during breathing.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} One of the tools used in the development of Tyrer's design has been a projective differential shape body analyzer for {{nowrap|40,000 GBP}}.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}}
Breasts weigh up to {{nowrap|~1 kg}} and not {{nowrap|~0.2 .. 0.3 kg}}.{{cite AV media| publisher=National Geographic TV |title="I didn't know that", episode 24}}{{Cite web|title=I Didn't Know That, episode 24|url=http://www.ngcimedia.com/programmes/episode.aspx?id=64&episodeid=189|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110714180216/http://www.ngcimedia.com/programmes/episode.aspx?id=64&episodeid=189|archive-date=14 July 2011}}{{Cite web|title=Festival Programme, Bras to Bridges or Why Bras Don't Work|publisher=Loughborough University – Faculty of Science|url=http://www.lboro.ac.uk/faculty/sci/news/festival_of_science.html|access-date=16 May 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110613041908/http://www.lboro.ac.uk/faculty/sci/news/festival_of_science.html|archive-date=13 June 2011|url-status=dead}} Tyrer said, "By measuring the diameter of the chest and breasts current measurements are supposed to tell you something about the size and volume of each breast, but in fact it doesn't".{{Cite news |publisher=BBC |work=Leicester—Features |date=14 November 2007 |title=Support Act |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/leicester/content/articles/2007/11/14/bra_design_feature.shtml |access-date=16 May 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110403021325/http://www.bbc.co.uk/leicester/content/articles/2007/11/14/bra_design_feature.shtml |archive-date=3 April 2011 |url-status=live }} Bra companies remain reluctant to manufacture Tyrer's prototype, which is a front closing bra with more vertical orientation and adjustable cups.
= Calculating cup volume and breast weight =
The average breast weighs about {{convert|0.5|kg}}.{{sfn|Katch|Campaigne|Freedson|Sady|1980}} Each breast contributes to about 4–5% of the body fat.{{Cite web | url=https://www.ebaumsworld.com/pictures/things-you-didnt-know-about-boobs/83530005/ |title=Things you didn't know about boobs |publisher=eBaum's World |access-date=22 September 2022 }} The density of fatty tissue is more or less equal to {{cvt|0.9|g/cm3|oz/cuin}} {{Cite web | url=https://banisternutrition.com/fat-vs-muscle/ |title=FAT vs. MUSCLE |date=3 June 2014 |publisher=Banister Fitness |access-date=22 September 2022 }}
If a cup is a hemisphere, its volume V is given by the following formula:{{Cite journal|last=Nanas|first=Edward|date=February 1964|title=Brassieres: An Engineering Miracle|url=http://www.firstpr.com.au/show-and-tell/corsetry-1/nanas/engineer.html|journal=Science and Mechanics|access-date=17 April 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100722191931/http://www.firstpr.com.au/show-and-tell/corsetry-1/nanas/engineer.html|archive-date=22 July 2010|url-status=dead}}
:
where r is the radius of the cup, and D is its diameter.
If the cup is a hemi-ellipsoid, its volume is given by the formula:
:
where a, b and c are the three semi-axes of the hemi-ellipsoid, and cw, cd and wl are respectively the cup width, the cup depth and the length of the wire.
Cups give a hemi-spherical shape to breasts and underwires give shape to cups.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} So the curvature radius of the underwire is the key parameter to determine volume and weight of the breast.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} The same underwires are used for the cups of sizes 36A, 34B, 32C, 30D etc. ... so those cups have the same volume.{{Citation needed|date=June 2016}} The reference numbers of underwire sizes are based on a B cup bra,{{Cite web |url=http://deofsf.com/Resources/Bra-Underwire-Charts.pdf |title=Underwire Charts |publisher=Design Enterprises of San Francisco |first=Don |last=McCunn |access-date=24 June 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120326015154/http://deofsf.com/Resources/Bra-Underwire-Charts.pdf |archive-date=26 March 2012 |url-status=live }} for example underwire size 32 is for 32B cup (and 34A, 30C...). An underwire size 30 width has a curvature diameter of {{convert|3+5/6|in|cm}} and this diameter increases by {{convert|1/3|in|cm}} by size. The table below shows volume calculations for some cups that can be found in a ready-to-wear large size shop.{{Cite web |url= http://www.plussizebras.info/size.html |title= Plussize "Trusiz" Chart |access-date= 20 July 2012 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20120724134805/http://www.plussizebras.info/size.html |archive-date= 24 July 2012 |url-status= live |df= dmy-all }}
See also
{{Portal|Fashion}}
Notes
{{Reflist|30em}}
References
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{{refend}}
Further reading
- {{Cite news |last=Jahme |first=Carole |date=14 May 2010 |title=Breast size: a human anomaly |url=https://www.theguardian.com/science/2010/may/14/breast-size-evolution |department=Ask Carole (column) |work=The Guardian |location=London |access-date=17 January 2017}}