Delmonico's

{{Short description|American restaurant in New York City}}

{{More citations needed|date=August 2022}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=April 2025}}

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File:Delmonico's (25667384390).jpg in the Financial District]]

File:(King1893NYC) pg245 DELMONICOS, BEAVER AND WILLIAMS STREETS.jpg

File:Campion dinner.jpg at Delmonico's in 1906]]

File:Delmonico paste work kitchen 1902.jpg for a banquet being prepared in the Delmonico's kitchen in 1902]]

File:Delmonicos.jpg

Delmonico's is a series of restaurants that have operated in New York City, and Greenwich, Connecticut, with the present version located at 56 Beaver Street in the Financial District of Manhattan.

The original version was widely recognized as America's first fine dining restaurant. Beginning as a small cafe and pastry shop in 1827 at 23 William Street, Delmonico's eventually grew into a hospitality empire that encompassed several luxury restaurants catering to titans of industry, the political elite and cultural luminaries. In many respects, Delmonico's represented the genesis of American fine dining cuisine, pioneering numerous restaurant innovations, developing iconic American dishes, and setting a standard for dining excellence. Delmonico's (under the Delmonico family's ownership and management) shuttered all locations by 1923. In 1926, Delmonico's under new ownership by Italian immigrant Oscar Tucci reopened at 56 Beaver Street.

History

=Origin=

The original Delmonico's opened in 1827 in a rented pastry shop at 23 William Street, and appeared in a list of restaurants in 1830. It was opened by Italian-Swiss immigrants, the brothers Giovanni and Pietro Delmonico. In 1831, they were joined by their nephew, Lorenzo, who eventually became responsible for the restaurant's wine list and menu.{{cite web |url=http://boweryboysarchive.libsyn.com/_58_delmonico_s_restaurant |title=NYC History: Bowery Boys Archive : #58 Delmonico's Restaurant |publisher=Boweryboysarchive.libsyn.com |date=2010-01-29 |access-date=2019-11-03 |archive-date=2020-11-21 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201121171651/https://boweryboysarchive.libsyn.com/_58_delmonico_s_restaurant |url-status=dead }}{{cite web|last=Syme |first=Rachel |url=https://www.nbcnewyork.com/the-scene/food-drink/The-Bowery-Boys-Explain-The-First-Restaurant--83763412.html |title=History Lessons: Delmonico's, The First Locavore Restaurant |date=7 February 2010 |publisher=NBC New York |access-date=2019-11-03}}{{cite web|author=Bowery Boys |url=http://www.boweryboyshistory.com/2008/08/podcast-delmonico.html |title=PODCAST: Delmonico's Restaurant Francais - The Bowery Boys: New York City History |publisher=Boweryboyshistory.com |date=2008-08-15 |access-date=2019-11-03}}

The brothers moved their restaurant several times before settling at 56 Beaver Street (also 2 South William Street). When the building was opened on a grand scale in August 1837 after the Great Fire of New York, New Yorkers were told that the columns by the entrance had been imported from the ruins of Pompeii.{{r|oconnell}} It eventually became one of the most famous restaurants in New York, with its reputation eventually growing to international prominence.{{cite book|last=Aaseng|first=Nathan|title=Business Builders in Fast Food|publisher=The Oliver Press|date=January 2001|pages=[https://archive.org/details/businessbuilders00nath_0/page/8 8–10]|isbn=1-881508-58-7|url-access=registration|url=https://archive.org/details/businessbuilders00nath_0/page/8}}{{cite book|last=Hooker|first=Richard J|title=Food and Drink in America: A History|publisher=Bobbs-Merrill Co.|location=Indianapolis|date=May 1981|chapter=18 – Eating Out 1865–1900|isbn=0-672-52681-6}}

=Expansion and closure=

Beginning in the 1850s, the restaurant hosted the annual gathering of the New England Society of New York, which featured many important speakers of the day. In 1860, Delmonico's provided the supper at the Grand Ball welcoming the Prince of Wales at the Academy of Music on East 14th Street. Supper was set out in a specially constructed room; the menu was French, and the pièces montées represented Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, the Great Eastern and Flora's Vase. The New York Times reported, "We may frankly say that we have never seen a public supper served in a more {{sic|inapproachable}}{{efn| Inapproachable: "irreproachable" may have been intended, unless a covert reference to the evening's crush was implied.}} fashion, with greater discretion, or upon a more luxurious scale".{{citation |author=Susan Bindig |title=New York Welcomes the Prince of Wales (1860) |work=Dance Chronicle |volume=12 |issue=2 |year=1989 |page=234}} In 1862, the restaurant hired Charles Ranhofer, considered one of the greatest chefs of his day.

The business was so successful that from 1865 to 1888, it expanded to four restaurants of the same name. At various times, there were Delmonico's at ten locations. By 1876, news of the prices at New York's restaurants, including Delmonico's, spread at least as far as Colorado where complaints about the cost of wine, eggs, bread and butter, potatoes, and coffee ("forty cents a cup"), appeared in the Pueblo Colorado Daily Chieftain.{{cite news |at=p. 2, col. 2 |newspaper=Colorado Daily Chieftain |date=May 25, 1876|title=Doleful complaints|via= Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection |url=https://www.coloradohistoricnewspapers.org/cgi-bin/colorado?a=d&d=CFT18760525.2.13&e=01-01-1859-08-11-1893--en-20-CFT-21-byDA-txt-txIN-suffrage-------0-Pueblo# |access-date=2019-11-03 |quote=Doleful complaints are made of the prices charged by New York hotel and restaurant people. At the New York Hotel they are in the habit of charging twenty cents for a glass of vin ordinaire: at the Union Square Hotel they charge twenty cents for an egg and fifteen cents for bread and butter. At several restaurants two potatoes cost fifteen cents, and coffee at Delmonico's cost[s] forty cents a cup. The fashionable bar-rooms are now almost deserted. No wonder, says the Herald, that those who can live abroad do so.|volume=6|number=1253}}

In 1884, Republican presidential nominee James G. Blaine attended a dinner at Delmonico's with his wealthy backers. This was picked up by the press, and used against Blaine to show him as disconnected from poor and working-class Americans, particularly in a political cartoon of the dinner on the front page of the New York World. The menu from the dinner was also circulated by the Democrats for the same purpose. Blaine would go on to lose to Grover Cleveland in an election that was ultimately decided by a less than one thousand vote difference in New York.{{Cite book |last=White |first=Richard |title=The Republic for Which It Stands |publisher=Oxford University Press |year=2017 |pages=471–473 |isbn=978-0199735815 |series=The Oxford History of the United States |language=en}}

File:The Royal Feast of Belshazzar Blaine and the Money Kings (1884).jpg attending a dinner at Delmonico's with his wealthy donors]]

In 1899, Delmonico's vacated the six-story Delmonico Building at Fifth Avenue and 26th Street. (The edifice was sold to John B. Martin, owner of the Martin Hotel, in May 1901.{{cite news |title=Delmonico Building Leased |work=The New York Times |date=May 4, 1901 |page=3}})

In 1919, Edward L.C. Robins purchased Delmonico's. Its grand location at Fifth Avenue and 44th Street closed in 1923 as a result of changing dining habits due to Prohibition. That location was the final incarnation of Delmonico's with continuity to the original.{{cite web |title=History of Delmonico's Restaurant and business operations in New York |author=Joe O'Connell |date=August 25, 2001 |url=http://www.steakperfection.com/delmonico/History.html |website= Steak Perfection}}

class=wikitable

|+ Restaurants owned and operated by the Delmonico family

! Location !! Dates !! Comments

23 William Street

| December 13, 1827 – December 16, 1835 (destroyed by fire) || "Delmonico & Brother, confectioners" small cafe and pastry shop

25 William Street

|March, 1830 – December 16, 1835 (destroyed by fire)

|"Delmonico & Brother, confectioners and Restaurant Francais"

76 Broad Street

| February 23, 1836 – July 19, 1845 (destroyed by fire) ||

2 South William Street/56 Beaver Street

| August, 1837 – July 10, 1890. Rebuilt and reopened July 7, 1891, closed 1917 || "Delmonico's Restaurant," informally called "The Citadel."

25 Broadway

| June 1, 1846 – 1856 || The Delmonico Hotel

Chambers Street and Broadway

| 1856 – October 26, 1876 ||

East 14th Street and 5th Avenue

| April 9, 1862 – September 11, 1876 ||

22 Broad Street

| 1865–1893 ||

Fifth Avenue and 26th St.

| September 11, 1876 – April 18, 1899 || Lobster a la Newberg invented here in 1876

112–114 Broadway near Pine St.

| October 26, 1876 – 1888 ||

Fifth Avenue and 44th Street

| November 15, 1897 – May 21, 1923 || The final Delmonico-owned restaurant

Later revivals

In 1926, Oscar Tucci purchased the restaurant and reopened Delmonico's, first calling it Oscar's Delmonico, at 56 Beaver Street. Tucci ran a speakeasy in the lower level of the restaurant. In 1933, Tucci received the third liquor license in New York after the repeal of Prohibition. In later years, Oscar Tucci, dropped "Oscar's" from the name and continued naming it Delmonico's. During the Tucci incarnation it adopted the original menus and recipes, and became distinguished in its own right, continuing to attract prominent politicians and celebrities, such as Lana Turner, Marilyn Monroe, Rock Hudson, Lena Horne, Elizabeth Taylor, Elvis, Etta James, JFK, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and others. Tucci also instituted many of the professional standards in use today in American restaurants known as the Delmonico Way, a method that is explained in the book The Delmonico Way; Sublime Entertaining & Legendary Recipes from the Restaurant that Made New York! by Max Tucci published by Rizzoli.{{cite book |last1=Tucci |first1=Max |title=The Delmonico way: Sublime entertaining & legendary recipes from the restaurant that made New York! |date=2022 |publisher=Rizzoli International Publications, Inc |location=New York |isbn=978-0847872039}} By the 1940s, Tucci owned and operated the entire Delmonico building, operating 63,000s.f. of restaurant space. Making Delmonico's the largest restaurant in the world during its time. Oscar created lavish dining rooms on the upper floors of the building and created dining rooms for companies such as Lehman Brothers and universities such as Harvard, creating the Harvard Lunch Club. The Penthouse was the most lush of private rooms; it included a private dining room with fireplace and en suite bedroom, a private kitchen and roof top terrace. Other private rooms included, The Roman Room which was designed by Mario Tucci and Valerian Rybar, The Baroque Room, The Hunt Room, The Bulls & Bears, The Python Room, and the main dining room known as The Palm Room. It was in the Palm Room that Ralph Burns and his orchestra serenaded guests. During the height of the Tucci era, Delmonico's served over an outstanding, thousand lunches a day. In 1941, Oscar Tucci expanded the brand, opening Oscar's Delmonico uptown located at 146 E56th Street, according to Tips on Tables writer William Hawkins it opened "with a boom!" In 1948, Oscar expanded further opening Delmon's Restaurant at 75 William Street.

The Tucci era also produced four of the most prominent restaurateurs of the twentieth century: Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque, Tony May{{cite web |title=Tony May NY |url=https://tonymayny.com/|archive-date=22 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161022105751/https://tonymayny.com/}} of San Domenico and the Rainbow Room, Harry Poulakakos of Harry's located in Hanover Square, and Lello Arpaia, father to restaurateur Donatella Arpaia.

In 1981 the Tucci family penned a licensing deal with Edward Huber to operate "Delmonico's" at 56 Beaver Street and the restaurant reopened the following year,{{Cite news |last=Mangaliman |first=Jessie |date=1989-01-06 |title=Delmonico's Looks Forward to Gay '90s |pages=23 |work=Newsday |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/107647433/delmonicos-looks-forward-to-gay/ |access-date=2022-08-15}} lasting until 1993.Huber, Ed. [http://www.guideposts.com/story/delmonicos-neighborhood-homeless?page=0,0 "Not in My Neighborhood: The owner of one of America's most historic restaurants faces a modern problem."] Guideposts.com. {{Dead link|date=October 2022|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}}Black, Larry (June 18, 1993). "View from City Road: Technology transforms Wall Street and may kill it." The Independent. In 1984, Tucci's son Mario Tucci, Gina (Mario's wife) and sister Mary Tucci opened a second "Delmonico's" in Greenwich, Connecticut; it closed three years later due to Mario's untimely death.{{Citation needed|date=August 2022}}

File:Delmonicos NYC.jpg

In 1997, under a new licensing agreement with the Tucci family, the BiCE Group took over operations of the restaurant. The group renovated the location and reopened Delmonico's with Gian Pietro Branchi as executive chef. The restaurant reopened in May 1998 after a renovation by Morris Nathanson.{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/1998/05/13/dining/off-the-menu.html | title=Off the1¹²2² Menu | newspaper=The New York Times | date=13 May 1998 | last1=Fabricant | first1=Florence }} In 1999, the restaurant was leased to the Ocinomled partnership.{{cite web |last=Swanson |first=David |date=April 6, 2018 |title=Amid Delmonico's Gilded Age Splendor, Diners Party Like It's 1899 |url=https://www.villagevoice.com/2018/04/06/amid-delmonicos-gilded-age-splendor-diners-party-like-its-1899/ |access-date=August 15, 2022 |website=The Village Voice}} The restaurant closed temporarily in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. In January 2023, Delmonico's reopened under new ownership, Dennis Turcinovic and Joseph Licul signed a new lease on the building. Turcinovic and Licul welcomed Max Tucci (Oscar Tucci's grandson) to join them as Third Generation Partner and Global Brand Officer.{{cite web |last=Young |first=Celia |title=Famed NYC Steakhouse Delmonico's Reopening This Fall |website=Commercial Observer |date=January 18, 2023 |url=https://commercialobserver.com/2023/01/famed-steakhouse-delmonicos-reopening-fall/ |access-date=January 25, 2023}} The restaurant underwent interior renovation, and reopened September 15, 2023. New York City Mayor Adams attended the ceremonial ribbon cutting with Gina Tucci and the new Delmonico's team. Max Tucci welcomed "New York and the World back to Delmonico’s."{{cite web |title=Delmonico's, piece of NYC history, reopens after 3-year pandemic closure |website=CBS New York |date=September 18, 2023 |url=https://www.cbsnews.com/newyork/news/delmonicos-piece-of-nyc-history-reopens-after-3-year-pandemic-closure/ |access-date=September 29, 2023}}

In 2024, the Delmonico’s team, including Dennis Turcinovic and Max Tucci opened Delmonico’s sister establishment TUCCI - New York, located at 643 Broadway, New York, New York. Steve Cuozzo stated in the New York Post "Move over, Carbone — this new NYC Italian hotspot has the best meatballs."

Signature dishes

Delmonico potatoes were invented at Delmonico's restaurant and possibly Chicken à la King.{{cite web|url=http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/PoultryDishes.htm|title=What's Cooking America: "History of Poultry Dishes: Chicken A' La King|date=8 August 2015 }} However, the restaurant is most famous for the Delmonico steak, which it now serves as a rib eye steak but originally served as a strip steak, hence the latter cut's nickname as the "New York strip" within the United States.{{Cite news |last=Wells |first=Pete |date=2025-03-03 |title=Texas May Rename the New York Strip |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2025/03/03/dining/texas-new-york-strip.html |access-date=2025-03-05 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} Eggs Benedict were also said to have originated at Delmonico's, although others claim that dish as well.{{Citation | last=Butler | first=Mabel C. | title=Letters: Benedicts' Eggs | newspaper=The New York Times Magazine | pages=SM40 | date=November 26, 1967 | url=https://www.nytimes.com/1967/11/26/archives/letters-the-men-of-third-squad-retarded-children-letters-schooling.html | access-date=February 23, 2007 }}{{Citation | date=December 19, 1942 | title=Talk of the Town | magazine=The New Yorker }}{{Citation | last=Claiborne | first=Craig | author-link=Craig Claiborne | title=American Classic: Eggs Benedict | newspaper=The New York Times Magazine | page=290 | date=September 24, 1967 | url=https://www.nytimes.com/1967/09/24/archives/american-classic-eggs-benedict.html | access-date=February 19, 2007 }}

It is often said that the name "Baked Alaska" was coined at Delmonico's as well, in 1867, by chef Charles Ranhofer. However, no contemporary account exists of this occurrence, and Ranhofer himself referred to the dish, in 1894, as "Alaska Florida", apparently referring to the contrast between extremes of heat and cold.{{cite book |title=The epicurean. A complete treatise of analytical and practical studies on the culinary art, including table and wine service, how to prepare and cook dishes... etc., and a selection of interesting bills of fare of Delmonico's from 1862 to 1894. Making a Franco-American culinary encyclopedia (1894) |last=Ranhofer |first=Charles |year=1894 |publisher=New York, C Ranhofer |url=https://archive.org/stream/epicureancomplet00ranh#page/1006/mode/2up}} It is also said that Lobster Newberg was invented at the restaurant. In the 1930s Delmonico's owner Oscar Tucci created the Wedge Salad at Delmonico's.

Other Delmonico's restaurants

Delmonico's Italian Steakhouse is a chain of restaurants with six locations in Upstate New York and Florida. This chain has no connection to the Delmonico's Restaurant located at 56 Beaver Street.{{cite web|url=http://www.delmonicositaliansteakhouse.com/ |title=Delmonico's Italian Steakhouse | Home Of The 24oz. Delmonico Steak |publisher=Delmonicositaliansteakhouse.com |access-date=2019-11-03}}

Menus

See also

Notes

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References

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