Fort Saint Elmo

{{Short description|Star fort in Valletta, Malta}}

{{Other uses|Saint Elmo (disambiguation)|San Telmo (disambiguation)}}

{{Infobox military installation

|name = Fort Saint Elmo

|native_name = Forti Sant'Iermu

|partof = the fortifications of Valletta

|location = Valletta, Malta

|image = 300px

|caption = Aerial view of Valletta, with Fort St. Elmo in the foreground

|map = Fort St. Elmo map.png

|image_mapsize = 300px

|map_caption = Map of Fort St. Elmo

|type = Star fort integrated into a city wall

|coordinates ={{coord|35.9020|14.5188|format=dms|type:landmark_region:MT|display=inline,title}}

|ownership = Government of Malta

|controlledby = Heritage Malta
Police Academy

|open_to_public = Yes

|site_area = {{convert|50,400|m2|abbr=on}}

|built = 1552–1570s{{efn|Modifications continued until the early twentieth century.}}

|used = 1552–1972

|builder = Order of Saint John

|materials = Limestone

|height =

|condition = Intact

|battles = Great Siege of Malta
World War II

|events = Rising of the Priests

{{Infobox designation list

| embed = yes

| designation1 = WHS

| designation1_offname =

| designation1_type = Cultural

| designation1_criteria = i, vi

| designation1_date = 1980 (4th session)

| delisted1_date =

| designation1_partof = City of Valletta

| designation1_number = [https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/131 131]

| designation1_free1name = Region

| designation1_free1value = Europe and North America

}}

}}

Fort Saint Elmo ({{langx|mt|Forti Sant'Iermu}}) is a star fort in Valletta, Malta. It stands on the seaward shore of the Sciberras Peninsula that divides Marsamxett Harbour from Grand Harbour, and commands the entrances to both harbours along with Fort Tigné and Fort Ricasoli. It is best known for its role in the Great Siege of Malta in 1565.

History

=Background and construction=

File:St.Elmo.plan.jpg

By 1417, the local militia had already established a permanent watch post on the tip of the Sciberras Peninsula.{{cite web|title=Fort St. Elmo|url=http://heritagemalta.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/FORT-ST-ELMO.pdf|website=Heritage Malta|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131206083119/http://heritagemalta.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/FORT-ST-ELMO.pdf|archive-date=6 December 2013}} In 1488, the Aragonese built a watchtower on Saint Elmo Point, and it was dedicated to Erasmus of Formia, better known as Saint Elmo. In 1533, the Order of Saint John reinforced the tower due to its strategic location.{{cite web|title=Fort St. Elmo|url=http://www.visitmalta.com/en/info/fortstelmo|website=Visit Malta|access-date=5 October 2014}} In 1551, an Ottoman raid occurred in which the Turkish fleet sailed into Marsamxett Harbour unopposed. Due to this, it was decided that a major expansion was necessary, and in 1552 the tower was demolished and a new star fort began to be built. It was designed by a Spanish Engineer named Pietro Pardo.{{cite web |url=https://www.um.edu.mt/library/oar/bitstream/123456789/51888/30/Orizzont_Dawra%20kulturali%20mal-Port%20il-Kbir%20%2830%29.PDF |title=Dawra kulturali mal-Port il-Kbir |publisher=L-Orizzont |language=mt |date=4 August 2018 }} It had a cavalier, a covertway and a tenaille. A ravelin was hastily constructed months before the 1565 siege.{{cite news |last1=Grima |first1=Joseph F. |title=The loss of Fort St Elmo, 1565 |url=https://timesofmalta.com/articles/view/the-loss-of-fort-st-elmo-1565.799878 |work=Times of Malta |date=21 June 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201004031645/https://timesofmalta.com/articles/view/the-loss-of-fort-st-elmo-1565.799878 |archive-date=4 October 2020}}

=Great Siege of 1565=

{{See also|Great Siege of Malta#Capture of Fort St. Elmo}}

In 1565, in the Great Siege of Malta, the Ottomans invaded Malta once again with much more force than in 1551. Fort Saint Elmo was the scene of some of the most intense fighting of this siege, and it held out for nearly a month, withstanding massive bombardment from Turkish cannon deployed on Mount Sciberras that overlooked the fort and from batteries on the north arm of Marsamextt Harbour, the present site of Fort Tigné. The initial garrison of the fort was around one hundred and fifty knights and six hundred soldiers, the majority of whom were Spanish, and sixty armed galley slaves. The garrison could be reinforced by boat from the forts across the Grand Harbour at Birgu and Senglea.

File:Siege of malta 2.jpg]]

During the bombardment of the fort, a cannon misfired and hit the top of its parapet, sending shards in all directions. Debris from the impact killed the gunner and mortally injured the corsair and Ottoman admiral Dragut, one of the most competent of the Ottoman commanders. The fort withstood the siege for 28 days, falling to the Turks on 23 June 1565. None of the defending knights survived, and only nine of the Maltese defenders survived by swimming across to Fort St. Angelo on the other side of the Grand Harbour after Fort St Elmo fell. The long siege bought much needed time for the preparation of the other two fortresses and the arrival of reinforcements from Spain.

=Reconstruction and modifications=

After the siege, Grandmaster Jean Parisot de Valette decided to build a new city on the peninsula. Construction started in 1566, and Francesco Laparelli was sent by the Pope to design the fortifications. The ruined Fort Saint Elmo was rebuilt and integrated within the city walls.

File:Malta 267.jpg

The fort was modified a number of times in the 17th century. The Vendôme Bastion was built in 1614, and in 1687 the Carafa Enceinte was built on the foreshore surrounding the entire fort. In the late 17th century, the fort was directly linked to the cavalier and part of the ditch was filled in burying some of the original ramparts in the process.{{cite web|last1=Spiteri|first1=Stephen C.|title=In search of Fort St Elmo 1565|url=http://www.militaryarchitecture.com/index.php/Building-Methods/in-search-of-fort-st-elmo-1565.html|website=Military Architecture|access-date=5 October 2014}} In the 18th century, a new polverista was built in the Vendome Bastion, and stores were built in the area between the main fort and the Carafa Enceinte. These are known as Pinto Stores and they and the surrounding area form what is known as Lower Saint Elmo.{{cite web|title=Fort St. Elmo Project|url=http://www.doi-archived.gov.mt/EN/press_releases/2011/02/pr0323.pdf|publisher=Department of Information|access-date=9 October 2014}}

{{CSS image crop

|Image = Le Gouverneur du Fort St. Elme. Vue du dit Fort et portion de la Vallette (NYPL b14896507-120285).tiff

|bSize = 360

|cWidth = 220

|cHeight = 270

|oTop = 60

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|Description = 18th-century painting of the Hospitaller Governor of Fort St Elmo, with the fort itself and Valletta in the background

}}

On 8 September 1775, Fort Saint Elmo was captured by 13 rebel priests along with Saint James Cavalier in what became known as the Revolt of the Priests. The Order's flag was lowered and a banner of Saint Paul was raised instead. The Order managed to recapture St Elmo so the rebels in control of St James surrendered as well. Eventually the rebels were tried and three were executed while the others were exiled or imprisoned. The heads of the three executed men were displayed on the corners of St James Cavalier but were removed soon after Emmanuel de Rohan-Polduc was elected Grandmaster in November of the same year.{{cite web|last1=Sciberras|first1=Sandro|title=Maltese History - E. The Decline of the Order of St John In the 18th Century|url=http://www.stbenedictcollege.org/stlucija/files/Sandro%20Sciberras/Form%203%20Option%20Maltese%20History/Unit%20E_%20The%20Decline%20of%20the%20Order%20+%20WS%2010p.pdf|website=St Benedict College|access-date=30 September 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141006101204/http://www.stbenedictcollege.org/stlucija/files/Sandro%20Sciberras/Form%203%20Option%20Maltese%20History/Unit%20E_%20The%20Decline%20of%20the%20Order%20+%20WS%2010p.pdf|archive-date=6 October 2014}}

=British rule=

The fort was once again modified in the early 19th century by the British, when a musketry parapet was built. In 1855, the polverista at Vendome Bastion was converted into an armoury, and some small arms from the Palace Armoury were transferred there. In the 1870s, more works were done on Abercrombie's Bastion. In 1917, the first heart operation to be performed on a soldier was done at St Elmo.{{cite news|title=First heart op on soldier was performed in Malta in WWI|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20140106/local/first-heart-op-on-soldiers-was-performed-in-malta-in-wwi.501526|access-date=5 October 2014|work=Times of Malta|date=6 January 2014}} In the interwar period gun emplacements were built to house new twin 6-pounder QF guns.

The fort was the site of the first aerial bombardment of Malta on 11 June 1940. Among the people that were in the fort during the air raid was the military doctor Ċensu Tabone, who later became President of Malta. He survived the attack, but six others were killed in the same air raid.{{cite news|title=Poignant ceremony recalls Malta's early war victims - Censu Tabone's close escape|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20140611/local/poignant-ceremony-recalls-maltas-early-war-victims-censu-tabones-close-escape.522927|access-date=5 October 2014|work=Times of Malta|date=11 June 2014}}

On 26 July 1941, the Italians launched a seaborne attack on the Grand Harbour with two human torpedoes, four MAS boats and six MT boats. The force was detected early on by a British radar facility, and the coastal artillery at Saint Elmo opened fire when the Italians approached to close range. Fifteen of the attackers were killed and 18 captured, and all the human torpedoes and MT boats, along with two of the MAS boats were lost. One of the MT boats hit St. Elmo Bridge, which linked the breakwater with the tip of the peninsula near the fort, and the bridge collapsed. The bridge was never restored, and it was only in 2012 that a new one was built in its place with a similar but different design.{{cite news|last1=Vella|first1=Annette|title=Fort St Elmo is finally linked to the breakwater|url=http://www.di-ve.com/news/fort-st-elmo-finally-linked-breakwater|access-date=9 October 2014|work=di-ve.com|date=25 July 2012|archive-date=18 October 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181018004446/http://www.di-ve.com/news/fort-st-elmo-finally-linked-breakwater|url-status=dead}}

Parts of the fort were severely damaged during the war and some scars of the bombing can still be seen to this day.{{Cite web|url=https://timesofmalta.com/articles/view/when-war-came-to-malta-and-thousands-became-refugees.797724|title = When war came to Malta and thousands became refugees| date=11 June 2020 }} The Royal Malta Artillery left the fort on 26 March 1972, ending its long military history. Parts of the fort subsequently fell in disuse.

=Present day=

File:Malta Knights.jpg

The World Monuments Fund placed the fort on its 2008 Watch List of the 100 Most Endangered Sites in the world because of its significant deterioration due to factors such as lack of maintenance and security, natural aging, and exposure to the elements. Since 2009 major restoration works began,{{cite news|last1=Ameen|first1=Juan|title=Government unveils multi-million Fort St Elmo restoration job|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20090218/local/government-unveils-multi-million-fort-st-elmo-restoration-job.245412|access-date=5 October 2014|work=Times of Malta|date=18 February 2009}} and as of 2014 the restoration of Upper Saint Elmo and the Carafa enceinte was nearly complete.{{cite news|last1=Micallef|first1=Keith|title=Iconic fort is nearly back to former best|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20140326/local/Iconic-fort-is-nearly-back-to-former-best.512155|access-date=5 October 2014|work=Times of Malta|date=26 March 2014}}{{cite news|title=Updated - Upper Fort St Elmo restoration nears completion|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20141104/local/updated-upper-fort-st-elmo-restoration-nears-completion.542633|access-date=5 November 2014|work=Times of Malta|date=4 November 2014}} Restoration work was completed in 2015.{{cite news |title=Fort comes back to life |url=https://timesofmalta.com/articles/view/fort-comes-back-to-life.567401 |work=Times of Malta |date=9 May 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201016192741/https://timesofmalta.com/articles/view/fort-comes-back-to-life.567401 |archive-date=16 October 2020}}

From 1975, part of the fort housed the National War Museum, which contained military equipment and other things related to World War I and II. A replica of the George Cross that was awarded to Malta by King George VI in April 1942, was also on display in this museum.{{cite web|title=National War Museum|url=http://heritagemalta.org/museums-sites/national-war-museum/|website=Heritage Malta|access-date=5 October 2014}} The museum closed in September 2014,{{cite news|title=New Military History Museum to open at Fort St Elmo|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20130904/local/new-military-history-museum-to-open-at-fort-st-elmo.484795|access-date=5 October 2014|work=Times of Malta|date=4 September 2013}} and reopened in May 2015 having a larger collection.{{cite web|title=Fort St. Elmo Opening|url=http://valletta2018.org/events/fort-st-elmo-opening/|website=Valletta 2018|access-date=8 June 2015}}

Since the mid-20th century, Fort Saint Elmo has also housed Malta's police academy. Other parts of the fort are used for In Guardia and Alarme military reenactments.{{cite web|title=In Guardia Parade|url=http://heritagemalta.org/in-guardia-parade/|website=Heritage Malta|access-date=9 May 2015|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://archive.today/20140311111347/http://heritagemalta.org/in-guardia-parade/|archive-date=11 March 2014}}

While the fort was being restored, some archaeological excavations were made and various elements of the original pre-1565 fort were uncovered. This was an important find because little of the original fort exists, mainly because Laparelli rebuilt it in 1566 and it underwent a lot of renovation between the 17th and 19th centuries.

In November 2015 the fort was used as a media centre for the Valletta Summit on Migration.{{cite news|last1=Attard|first1=Rachel|title=8,000 people, many heads of state participating in Valletta Summit on Migration and CHOGM|url=http://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2015-10-31/local-news/Over-8-000-people-many-heads-of-state-participating-in-Valletta-Summit-on-Migration-and-CHOGM-6736144540|access-date=12 November 2015|work=The Malta Independent|date=31 October 2015|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151115115153/http://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2015-10-31/local-news/Over-8-000-people-many-heads-of-state-participating-in-Valletta-Summit-on-Migration-and-CHOGM-6736144540|archive-date=15 November 2015}} Foreign journalists stated that it was possibly "the most stunning venue which ever hosted an EU summit".{{cite news|last1=Grech|first1=Herman|title=Live commentary: Valletta summit sounds warning on Schengen, provides aid to Africa|url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20151112/local/live-commentary-valletta-summit-the-final-day.591857|access-date=12 November 2015|work=Times of Malta|date=12 November 2015}}

== Lower St. Elmo ==

Lower Saint Elmo was cleaned from the waste that accumulated over the years in 2015,{{cite news |date=14 November 2014 |title=Lower St Elmo to be cleaned |url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20141114/local/lower-st-elmo-to-be-cleaned.544015 |access-date=14 November 2014 |work=Times of Malta}} but has since fallen back to disrepair and is essentially abandoned.{{Cite web |last=Malta |first=Times of |date=2008-10-31 |title=The plight of Lower Fort St Elmo |url=https://timesofmalta.com/article/the-plight-of-lower-fort-st-elmo.231176 |access-date=2025-04-18 |website=Times of Malta |language=en-gb}} Plans for restoration fell through multiple times.{{cite news |date=28 October 2015 |title=Request for proposals for restoration of lower Fort St Elmo published |url=http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20151028/local/request-for-proposals-for-restoration-of-lower-fort-st-elmo-published.589982 |access-date=29 October 2015 |work=Times of Malta}}{{Cite web |title=Dubai consortium bids to restore dilapidated lower Fort St Elmo |url=https://www.maltatoday.com.mt/news/national/61245/dubai_consortium_bids_to_restore_dilapidated_lower_fort_st_elmo |access-date=2025-04-18 |website=MaltaToday.com.mt |language=en}} The site proves to be considerably hard to access even for urban explorers.

Layout

File:Malta - Valletta - Misrah Sant' Iermu - Fort St. Elmo 02 ies.jpg

File:St. Elmo. Valletta. Fort.jpeg

The original star fort, sometimes known as Upper St. Elmo to distinguish it from the rest of the fort, consists of two demi-bastions, two flanks and two faces, a parade ground, barracks and a large cavalier. The fort included a ravelin in 1565, but this was demolished during the fort's reconstruction after the siege.

The Main Entrance of Fort St.Elmo is known as the "Victoria Gate" and it is located at the bottom right corner of the fort. A gate known as the Porta del Soccorso serves as the main entrance to Upper St. Elmo.{{cite web |title=Porta del Soccorso – Fort Ricasoli |url=https://culture.gov.mt/en/culturalheritage/NICPMI_Database/1696.pdf |website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201016215856/https://culture.gov.mt/en/culturalheritage/NICPMI_Database/1696.pdf |archive-date=16 October 2020 |date=28 June 2013}} The 15th-century Chapel of St Anne is located within the fort's walls close to this gate,{{cite web |title=Chapel of St. Anne |url=https://culture.gov.mt/en/culturalheritage/NICPMI_Database/00541.pdf |website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200305113739/https://culture.gov.mt/en/culturalheritage/NICPMI_Database/00541.pdf |archive-date=5 March 2020 |date=27 August 2012 |url-status=live}} and the 18th-century Church of St Anne is found within the parade ground.{{cite web |title=Church of St. Anne |url=https://culture.gov.mt/en/culturalheritage/NICPMI_Database/00540.pdf |website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200622090211/https://culture.gov.mt/en/culturalheritage/NICPMI_Database/00540.pdf |archive-date=22 June 2020 |date=27 August 2012}}

After the fortifications of Valletta were built, Vendôme Bastion was constructed in 1614 linking the French Curtain to Fort St. Elmo. The bastion contains an echaugette, and it was eventually converted into a magazine, and later an armoury. The bastion is now part of the National War Museum.{{cite web|title=Vendôme Bastion - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1613.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713052858/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1613.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}

The Carafa Enceinte, which was built starting from 1687, encloses the original fort as well as Vendôme Bastion. It consists of the following bastions and curtain walls:

  • St. Gregory Bastion – an asymmetrical bastion with a long left face. It was altered by the British to house QF 6 pounder 10 cwt guns.{{cite web|title=St Gregory Bastion - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1596.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713052435/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1596.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}
  • St. Gregory Curtain – a curtain wall linking St. Gregory and Conception Bastions. It contains various British gun emplacements.{{cite web|title=St Gregory Curtain - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1597.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713055239/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1597.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}
  • Conception Bastion, also known as Ball's Bastion – a small pentagonal bastion, containing a number of gun emplacements, magazines, and gun crew accommodation. Sir Alexander Ball was buried in the salient of the bastion.{{cite web|title=Conception Bastion - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1598.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713052608/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1598.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}
  • Sta. Scholastica Curtain – curtain wall linking Conception and St. John Bastions. It contains a gun emplacement for a RML 12.5 inch 38 ton gun, as well as other British modifications.{{cite web|title=Sta Scholastica Curtain - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1599.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713055110/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1599.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}
  • St. John Bastion, also known as Abercrombie's Bastion – a large asymmetrical bastion at St. Elmo Point, the tip of the Sciberras Peninsula. The bastion contains several British gun emplacements and magazines. Sir Ralph Abercromby was buried on the bastion.{{cite web|title=St John Bastion Caraffa - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1600.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713060301/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1600.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}
  • St. Ubaldesca Curtain, also known as Abercrombie's Curtain – a long curtain wall linking St. John and St. Lazarus Bastions. It contains a number of British gun emplacements.{{cite web|title=Sta Ubaldesca Curtain - Valletta|url=http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1601.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713060023/http://www.culturalheritage.gov.mt/filebank/inventory/Knights%20Fortifications/1601.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 13, 2015|website=National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands|access-date=11 July 2015|date=28 June 2013}}

Some barrack blocks are located in the area between Upper St. Elmo and the Carafa Enceinte.

{{wide image|Fort St. Elmo after restoration view.jpg|800px|View of Fort St. Elmo}}

Further reading

  • Matthias Ebejer (2015) [https://www.academia.edu/17148435/The_Concept_of_Martyrdom_within_Hospitaller_Devotional_Practices_The_fallen_at_St_Elmo_as_a_case_study The Concept of Martyrdom within Hospitaller Devotional Practices; The fallen at St Elmo as a case study]{{Dead link|date=April 2024 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}. University of Malta, Institute of Baroque Studies. Besieged Vol 1, Sep 2015.

References

{{Reflist|33em}}

Notes

{{Notelist}}

Further reading

{{Commons category|Fort Saint Elmo}}

  • {{cite book |author=Ernle Bradford | date=1965| title=The Siege of Malta 1565 | chapter= chapter IV | publisher=Penguin 2003 | isbn=0-14-101202-1 }} Originally a 1568 work by Francesco Balbi di Correggio, translated from old Italian to English.
  • Hughes, Q., Fort 1982 (Fortress Study Group), (10), pp. 71–93
  • Crowley, Roger, Empires of the Sea 2008, Chapters 9–10