Gákti
{{Short description|Piece of traditional Sámi clothing}}
File:Sami female traditional costume collar with silver.jpg collar of a traditional Sámi woman's gákti. This gákti has a metal embroidery collar with pewter or silver thread and traditional Sámi silver buckles.]]
File:Sami Metal Embroidery Male Collar Aasele Sweden 1920.jpg collar for a traditional male Sámi gákti from Åsele, Västerbotten, Sweden. The metal thread most commonly used for the embroidery is Pewter.]]
File:Costumes Saami.jpg outside of Rovaniemi, Finland. Though at first glance authentic to non-Saami people, the patterns on these gáktis are not traditional anywhere in Sapmi.]]
{{lang|se|Gákti}} is the Northern Sámi word used by non-Sámi speakers to refer to many different types of traditional clothing worn by the Sámi in northern areas of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Kola Peninsula in Russia. The gákti is worn both in ceremonial contexts and while working, particularly when herding reindeer.{{citation needed|date=February 2024}} The traditional Sami outfit is characterized by a dominant color adorned with bands of contrasting colours, plaits, pewter embroidery, tin art, and often a high collar. In the Norwegian language the garment is called a 'kofte', and in Swedish it is called 'kolt'.
Characteristics
The colours, patterns and decorations of the costume can signify a person's marital status and geographical origin. There are different gákti for women and men; men's gáktis are shorter at the hem than women's. Traditionally the gákti was made from reindeer skin, but in modern times, wool, cotton or silk are more common. The gákti can be worn with a belt (pleated, quilted or with silver buttons), silver jewellery, traditional leather footwear and a silk scarf. Traditionally, if the buttons on the belt are square, it shows the wearer is married. If they are round, the person is unmarried. If a married couple divorce, and the ex-husband still continues to use the Sami costume made by his ex-wife, he states by this that he wants her back. {{Citation needed|date=June 2009}}
In other Sámi languages
"Gákti" is the Northern Sámi term for the clothing. The following terms in other Sami languages do not refer to the Northern Sami gákti, but their own clothing:
South Sámi: {{lang|sma|gaeptie}}{{Cite web |url=http://gtweb.uit.no/cgi-bin/smi/smi.cgi?text=gaeptie&pos=N&mode=full&action=paradigm&lang=sma&plang=sma |title=gaeptie: Substantiv (N) |language=no |website=gtweb.uit.no |access-date=2019-03-15}}{{lang|sma|/gapta/gåptoe}}
Ume Sámi: {{lang|sju|gápttie}}
Pite Sámi: {{lang|sje|gáppte, gåppto}}
Lule Sámi: {{lang|smj|gáppte/gábdde}}
Inari Sámi: {{lang|smn|mááccuh}}{{Cite web |url=http://sanosesaameksi.yle.fi/pikaopas-saamelaiskulttuuriin/ |title=Pikaopas saamelaiskulttuuriin |trans-title=A quick guide to Sámi culture |website=Sano se saameksi |language=fi |access-date=2019-03-15}}
Skolt Sámi: {{lang|sms|määccaǩ}}
Kildin Sámi: {{lang|sjd|ма̄цэх/юххьп/юппа}}{{Cite web |url=https://saami.su/o-saami/materialnaya-kultura/odezhda.html |script-title=ru:Одежда российских саамов |title=Odezhda rossiyskikh saamov |trans-title=Clothing of Russian Sami |website=Saami.su |language=ru |access-date=2023-02-17 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220811054319/https://saami.su/o-saami/materialnaya-kultura/odezhda.html |archive-date=2022-08-11}}
Ter Sámi: {{lang|sjt|ма̄ца}} ({{lang|sjt|mā͕ᵈtsa͕ᵍ}}){{Cite web |url=https://kaino.kotus.fi/algu/index.php?t=lekseemi&lekseemi_id=72227 |title=Kotimaisten kielten keskus |website=kaino.kotus.fi |language=en, fi, de, se |access-date=2023-12-04 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231204173825/https://kaino.kotus.fi/algu/index.php?t=lekseemi&lekseemi_id=72227 |archive-date=2023-12-04}}
Fake gákti
The Finnish tourist industry is notorious for displaying fake Sámi culture for tourists in order to make profit.{{editorializing|date=August 2016}} Ethnically Finnish actors dress up in fake "gáktis" and perform fake "traditional rituals". This activity has been met with criticism{{cite web|url=http://www.galdu.org/web/index.php?odas=3374&giella1=eng |title=SÁPMI: No Fake Samis, Stop the Misuse of Our Culture |publisher=Galdu.org |date=2008-10-31 |accessdate=2012-10-13 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120217221046/http://www.galdu.org/web/index.php?odas=3374&giella1=eng |archivedate=2012-02-17 }} both from the Sámi and Finns since it creates a false image of and appropriates Sámi culture, diverts tourist industry money from ethnic Sámi to ethnic Finns (thereby exploiting the Sámi and Sápmi) land the Sámi are native to, without giving anything back) and is dishonest towards tourists.
See also
External links
- [https://samiskeveivisere.no/kart/ Clickable map of information about the traditional clothing of various Sámi groups]
References
- [http://ndla.no/nb/node/114083 Fra hverdagsplagg til kulturelt kjennetegn] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160808203331/http://ndla.no/nb/node/114083 |date=2016-08-08 }} Norwegian Digital Learning Arena / Norwegian News Agency {{in lang|no}}
{{Reflist}}
{{Commons category-inline|Sami clothing}}
{{Folk costume}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Gakti}}