Gap of Dunloe

File:Gap of Dunloe .jpg

The term "Dunloe" is believed to be an anglicisation of the Irish term "Dún Lóich", meaning fort or stronghold of Lóich (the River Loe that runs through the Gap of Dunloe valley also derives its name from the same source). According to the Annals of Clonmacnois, Keating and the Lebor Gabála Érenn (LGE), Deala (or Dela) Mac Lóich was the father of the five chieftains of the returning Fir Bolg (Slainghe, Gann, Genann, Seangann, and Rudhraighe), who conquered Ireland and divided it into five provinces, each ruled by one brother.{{cite web|url=https://www.libraryireland.com/HistoryIreland/Firbolgs.php|title=Firbolgs|publisher=LibraryIreland|access-date=13 December 2018|quote=An Illustrated History of Ireland, by Margaret Anne Cusack}} According to the Annals of the Four Masters, the Fir Bolg ruled Ireland for 37 years from 3266 to 3303 BCE,{{cite web|url=http://magoo.com/hugh/pre-milesian.html#firbolg|title=Pre-Milesian Irish Kings|author=Hugh McGough|access-date=13 December 2018|quote=According to the Annals of the Four Master, the Firbolgs rules Ireland for 37 years, from the "age of the world" 3266 to 3303. [..] The Firbolg descend from northern Gaul. While they were once termed 'Men of the Bags' after 'bolg' it is now thought they were named for their deity Bolg or Bolga. During the 37 year reign of the Firbolgs, their king Eochaid was known as a just and generous monarch.}} but were themselves defeated by the returning Tuatha Dé Danann.Koch, John T. Celtic Culture: A Historical Encyclopedia. ABC-CLIO, 2006. pp.749-750

File:Black Lough (looking northwards) Gap of Dunloe.jpg

{{anchor|Wishing Bridge}}{{anchor|Auger Lake}}

The Gap of Dunloe was formed 25,000 years ago during Ireland's last ice age as a result of a "glacial breach" where a glacier in the Black Valley, part of the Templenoe Icecap, estimated to be over 500 metres deep, broke through the Head of the Gap and moved northwards carving out a U-shaped valley.{{cite book|title=The Iveragh Peninsula: A Cultural Atlas of the Ring of Kerry|date=May 2009|author1=John Crowley|author2=John Sheehan|publisher=University College Cork|isbn=9781859184301|quote=The Physical Landscape of the Iveragh Peninsula}}{{cite web|url=https://www.irishexaminer.com/lifestyle/outdoors/donal-hickey/wondrous-ways-of-the-macgillycuddys-reeks-432569.html|title=Wondrous ways of the MacGillycuddy's Reeks|date=28 November 2016|publisher=Irish Examiner|quote=In an introduction, UCC academics John Crowley and John Sheehan relate the history of the Reeks, informing us glaciers gouged out spectacular breaches in the mountains like the Gap of Dunloe and Moll's Gap, about 25,000 years ago.}}{{cite web|url=https://www.killarneynationalpark.ie/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/KillarneyValleyGeologyTrail.pdf|title=Killarney Valley Geology Trail|publisher=KillarneyNationalPark.ie|access-date=15 September 2018}}

The pass runs north–south between the Old Red Sandstone mountain ranges of the MacGillycuddy's Reeks (to the west) and the Purple Mountain Group (to the east). The north–south road through The Gap as the area is also known, goes from Kate Kearney's Cottage in the north, to the highest point at the Head of the Gap at {{convert|241|m|ft|0|abbr=off}}, and down to Lord Brandon's Cottage in the Black Valley in the south. The road from Kate Kearney's Cottage to Lord Brandon's Cottage is {{convert|11|km|mi|0|abbr=off}} in length, with {{convert|200|m|round=50|abbr=off}} in total elevation change.

Within The Gap are five lakes (from north to south): Coosaun Lough, Black Lake, Cushnavally Lake, Auger Lake, and Black Lough. The lakes are connected by the River Loe. Between the first two, Coosaun Lough and Black Lake is the Wishing Bridge on which it is said that wishes made while upon it are destined to come true.{{cite web|url=https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/travel/cycling-through-one-of-the-most-scenic-and-secluded-parts-of-kerry-1.3197119|title=Cycling through one of the most scenic and secluded parts of Kerry|publisher=Irish Times|date=7 September 2017|author1=Donnacha Clifford|author2=David Elton|quote=The initial ascent leads up to a bridge in between the first two lakes of the day. This bridge is known as the Wishing Bridge and wishes made on it are supposed to come true.}}{{cite web|url=https://www.irishexaminer.com/ireland/two-us-tourists-die-in-jaunting-car-accident-469319.html|title=Two US tourists die in jaunting car accident at the Wishing Bridge|publisher=Irish Examiner|author=Anne Lucey|date=10 April 2018|quote=}} The stone bridge at the northern end of Augher Lake and the stone bridge at the northern end of Black Lough are also lookout points.

File:Sign for Gap of Dunloe at Kate Kearney's Cottage (geograph 5984949).jpg

The road through the Gap of Dunloe, from Kate Kearney's Cottage in the north, into the Black Valley in the south, is a public road,{{cite web|url=https://www.irishexaminer.com/ireland/cyclists-widower-beef-up-road-safety-at-gap-of-dunloe-452476.html|title=Cyclist's widower: Beef up road safety at Gap of Dunloe|publisher=Irish Examiner|date=15 June 2017|author=Anne Lucey|quote=The Gap, a public road through the MacGillycuddy's Reeks, is one of the most visited tourist routes in Ireland, famous since Victorian times.}} and under the charge of Kerry County Council.{{cite web|url=https://www.rte.ie/news/munster/2018/0802/982781-inquest-kerry-janet-price/|title=Coroner recommends Gap of Dunloe warning signs after cyclist's death|date=3 August 2018|publisher=RTE News|quote=The coroner and the jury have recommended there be warning signs on the busy regional road which is under the charge of Kerry County Council.}} In 2005, private jaunting car operators were accused of preventing tourists from driving the road.{{cite web|url=https://www.radiokerry.ie/claims-of-tourists-being-prevented-from-driving-around-the-gap-of-dunloe/|title=Claims of tourists being prevented from driving around the Gap Of Dunloe|date=29 June 2015|publisher=Radio Kerry|quote=A B&B owner in Caherciveen is claiming that poneymen are stopping tourists from driving around the Gap of Dunloe. It's understood that a group of Dutch tourists were told to turn back by the ponymen. A spokesperson for the poneymen rejects the allegation. Kerry County Council says the road through the Gap of Dunloe is a public roadway and the public have right of way at all times. The Council says the ponymen have no authority to stop people driving through.}} Lonely Planet clarified that the road is public in its 2018 Ireland guidebook.{{cite web|url=https://www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland/gap-of-dunloe/essential-information|title=Gap of Dunloe, Ireland: Essential information (2018)|access-date=13 December 2018|publisher=Lonely Planet|quote=Despite a road sign at Kate Kearney's Cottage implying that cars are forbidden, it is perfectly legal to drive through the Gap of Dunloe – it's a public road.|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20181214164159/https://www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland/gap-of-dunloe/essential-information|archivedate=14 December 2018}}{{cite book|title=Lonely Planet Ireland (2018 Travel Guide)|author=Neil Wilson|date=9 March 2018|isbn=978-1786574459|publisher=Lonely Planet}}

File:Kate Kearney's Cottage (geograph 5984940).jpg

The true Head of the Gap (at {{gbm4ibx|V872838}}), can be accessed from the north by driving past Kate Kearney's Cottage, and from the south by driving to Moll's Gap and then continuing east on the R568 road until a small side-road (at {{gbm4ibx|V853774}}, sometimes labelled "Gearhasallagh" after the townland, on maps), descends steeply north into the Black Valley and then winds its way westwards towards Lord Brandon's Cottage (which is off-route), but then diverts north to the actual Head of the Gap; this route is part of a 55–kilometre loop of the Killarney–Gap of Dunloe–Black Valley–Moll's Gap area,{{cite web|url=https://www.irishexaminer.com/lifestyle/features/summer-cycles-two-new-books-to-guide-you-on-your-journeys-449215.html|title=Summer cycles: Two new books to guide you on your journeys|publisher=Irish Examiner|author=Dan MacCarthy|date=3 May 2017}}{{cite web|url=https://www.mapmyride.com/ie/kenmare-m/molls-gap-gap-of-dunloe-black-valley-loo-route-151385587|title=MOLLS GAP, GAP OF DUNLOE, BLACK VALLEY LOOP|publisher=Mapmyride.com|date=11 May 2012}} popular with cyclists.{{cite web|url=https://www.bikemap.net/en/r/3040807/#/z13/51.9675914,-9.6253967/terrain|title=Gap of Dunloe-Black Valley-Molls Gap-Killarney Loop|access-date=13 December 2018|publisher=Bikemap.net}}

As the public road through the Gap of Dunloe road reaches the Head of the Gap it becomes narrow and winding and is difficult for vehicles to pass, which has led to concerns over safety; there have been fatalities over the years of cyclists. There have also been fatalities of tourists in jaunting cars.{{cite web|url=https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/two-killed-in-freak-pony-and-trap-accident-in-killarney-1.3455878|title=Two killed in 'freak' pony and trap accident in Killarney|publisher=Irish Times|author=Barry Roche|date=9 April 2018|quote=An American couple in their 60s travelling in a pony and trap were flung down a 12ft ravine on to rocks when the horse bolted in the Gap of Dunloe in Co Kerry on Monday.}}

The mountain ranges on either side of The Gap (MacGillycuddy's Reeks to the west, and Purple Mountain Group to the east), are common hill walking routes (some routes are discussed in more detail in their respective articles). The walk from Kate Kearney's Cottage (at {{gbm4ibx|V872838}}), to the full Head of the Gap (at {{gbm4ibx|V872838}}) is 6 kilometres and takes circa 1 hour (and another hour for the return journey back to Kate Kearney's Cottage).{{cite web|url=http://www.munsterhillwalks.com/purple/|title=Purple Mountain|publisher=Munster Hill Walks|access-date=14 December 2018|quote=From Kate Kearney's Cottage GR(V 88.09 88.78) proceed into the gap of Dunloe in a southerly direction, as you walk along the road you will pass by Black Lake, Cushnavally Lake and Auger Lake and Black Lough. This road is often busy with hill walkers and in the summer months you will frequently encounter Jarvey horse and carts as they carry visitors through the gap. As you rise out of the gap of Dunloe you reach your first major waypoint at Head of Gap GR(V 87.15 83.71). This section of the walk is about 5km and takes about an hour but time seems to pass much quicker.}}

File:Gap of Dunloe Rock Climbing.jpg

While not as well known as other Irish rock climbing locations (like Ailladie, Fair Head or Dalkey Quarry), various Old Red Sandstone cliffs and crags along the Gap of Dunloe are used as locations for rock climbing, and over 107 routes are listed and graded in the Irish Climbing Online Wiki.{{cite web|url=http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Gap_Of_Dunloe|title=Gap of Dunloe|publisher=Irish Climbing Online Wiki|access-date=13 December 2018}}{{cite web|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9898|title=Gap of Dunloe|publisher=UKClimbing.com|access-date=13 December 2018}}{{cite book|url=http://threerockbooks.com/download/GapOfDunloe-excerpt.pdf|title=Gap of Dunloe (Extract from "Rock climbing in Ireland")|publisher=Three Rock Books|author=David Flanagan|date=13 May 2024 |isbn= 978-0956787422}}

There are only two crags on the east side of the valley, namely Céim and Bothán, with most of the crags being in the north-west side of the valley, near Brennan's Leap (the cliff at the western shore of Coosaun Lough) / the Wishing Bridge (the stone bridge between Coosaun Lough and Black Lake).{{cite web|url=http://wiki.climbing.ie/images/archive/6/62/20140125115936!Gap_of_Dunloe_updated_guide.pdf|title=Gap of Dunloe Rock Climbing Guide|author=Richard Creagh|date=May 2011}} Grades range from V–Diff to E5 6b (Far Away Friends 10 m E5 6b, Cub Crag), with The Main Face crag having some of the longest +30 metre higher E–grade climbs (including Demasiado 40 m E1 5b, 5a), and Jigzaw Wall having short but also some of the hardest climbs in the valley.{{cite web|url=https://outsider.ie/ireland/gap-of-dunloe-climbing/|title=The Gap of Dunloe: An Introduction to the Kingdom of Climbing|date=January 2018|publisher=Outsider.ie}}

The Gap was ranked as one of the "top 5 areas" for bouldering in Ireland,{{cite web|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/1900351/top-5-areas-bouldering-ireland|publisher=Outsider.ie|title=The Top 5 Areas for Bouldering in Ireland|date=January 2012|quote=5. Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley, County Kerry. The Gap of Dunloe splits the MacGillycuddy's Reeks, Ireland's highest mountains. A small road, with boulders scattered on either side, winds its way through the Gap and down into the Black Valley. The rocks are purple sandstone with great friction and many slopers and pockets, and only a handful have been developed, so there are plenty of new problems to climb. The steep walls of the Gap mean that even in the summer cool conditions can be found in the evenings.}} including The Main Face crag, with grades of up to 7b.{{cite web|url=http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/GapOfDunloe.pdf|title=Gap of Dunloe: Bouldering Guide|author=David Flanagan|date=January 2009}}

Hill walking:

• {{cite book

| last1 = Fairbairn

| first1 = Helen

| title = Ireland's Best Walks: A Walking Guide

| publisher = Collins Press

| isbn = 978-1848892118

| year = 2014 }}

• {{cite book| author=MountainViews (Simon Stewart)|year=2013 | title=A Guide to Ireland's Mountain Summits: The Vandeleur-Lynams & the Arderins |publisher=Collins Books | isbn=978-1-84889-164-7}}
• {{cite book | last1 = Ryan | first1 = Jim | title = Carrauntoohil and MacGillycuddy's Reeks: A Walking Guide to Ireland's Highest Mountains | publisher = Collins Press | isbn = 978-1905172337 | year = 2006 }}
• {{cite book

| last1 = Dillion

| first1 = Paddy

| title = The Mountains of Ireland: A Guide to Walking the Summits

| publisher = Cicerone

| isbn = 978-1852841102

| year = 1993 }}

Rock climbing:

• {{cite book

| last1 = Richard

| first1 = Creagh

| last2 = Richard

| first2 = Stack

| title = Gap of Dunloe Rock Climbing Guide

| date = 25 January 2014

| url = http://wiki.climbing.ie/images/6/62/Gap_of_Dunloe_updated_guide.pdf }}

• {{cite book

| last = Flanagan

| first = David

| title = Rock Climbing in Ireland

| publisher = Three Rock Books

| isbn = 978-0956787422

| year = 2014 }}

File:Gap of Dunloe, from the highest point - geograph.org.uk - 248901.jpg|At the Head of the Gap (highest point) looking northwards

File:Gap of Dunloe Auger Lake.JPG|Looking southwards across Augher Lake up into the Head of the Gap

File:Gap of Dunloe Auger Lake depuis le col.JPG|Looking northwards at the road down to Augher Lake

File:Black Lake (looking south) Gap of Dunloe.jpg|Looking southwards across Augher Lake up into the Head of the Gap

File:Bridge over River Loe, Gap of Dunloe (geograph 5984872).jpg|Looking northwards to the stone bridge before Black Lough

{{Portal|Ireland}}

{{Commons category|Gap of Dunloe}}

• Ailladie, major rock climbing limestone sea-cliff in County Clare
• Fair Head, major rock climbing dolerite mountain crag in County Antrim
• Dalkey Quarry, major rock climbing granite quarry in Dublin
• Purple Mountain Group, mountain range to the east of The Gap
• MacGillycuddy's Reeks, mountain range to the west of The Gap

{{reflist}}

• [http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Gap_Of_Dunloe#Jigsaw_Wall IrishClimbingOnlineWiki.ie] Ailladie Online Database
• [https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9898 UKClimbing.com] Gap of Dunloe Online Database
• [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7XG85_3CIk Motorbike-Cam through The Gap], a 13-minute journey from the Head of the Gap in the south to Kate Kearney's Cottage

{{Irish Rock Climbing}}

{{authority control}}

Category:Tourist attractions in County Kerry

Category:Geography of County Kerry

Category:Climbing areas of Ireland

Category:Mountain passes of Ireland