Hwanhaejangseong

{{Infobox historic site

| name = Hwanhaejangseong Fortress

| native_name = {{Korean|hangul=환해장성|hanja=環海長城|labels=no}}

| native_language = ko

| image = File:곤을동환해장성.jpg

| alt = Piled stones, showing a dilapidated section of the wall

| caption = Part of the wall at Gonneuldong

| type = Coastal wall

| locmapin = South Korea

| map_relief = Yes

| coordinates = {{coord|33|25|02|N|126|54|25|E|type:landmark|display=inline,title}}

| length = {{convert|5120|m|ft}}

| built = 1270 onwards

| governing_body =

}}

Hwanhaejangseong Fortress ({{Korean|hangul=환해장성|hanja=環海長城}}), sometimes translated as the Hwanhaejangseong Fortress or the Hwanhae Great Wall, is a coastal fortification that once extended across much of the coastline of Jeju Island, today part of South Korea. Constructed in the 1270s during the Sambyeolcho Rebellion, the wall remained in use for centuries. However, in the late 20th-century it became heavily damaged, especially during the development of the island's coastal roads. In 1998, ten remaining stretches totaling {{convert|5120|m|ft}} were designated a {{ill|Monuments of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province|lt=Monument of Jeju Province|ko|제주특별자치도의 기념물}}.

In 1270, during the Sambyeolcho Rebellion, the Goryeo government sent instructions for a wall to be built on Jeju to help prevent Sambyeolcho forces from taking the island. However, the Sambyeolcho attacked just two months after Goryeo forces arrived, taking the island. It is likely the Sambyeolcho continued to develop and extend the wall, before their eventual defeat in 1273. The wall remained in use, being seen as helpful in defence against Japanese pirates. In 1845, the walls were repaired and perhaps extended after a British ship spent a month near the island. The current walls are likely a result of this 1845 reconstruction.

The walls were built with local basalt, and the construction seems to have used traditional local techniques used to build other stone walls in Jeju. However, the precise form of the wall varied along its length. Attempts to repair and reconstruct the wall have faced challenges due to a lack of knowledge about initial construction techniques.

History

The construction of what became Hwanhaejangseong began during the Sambyeolcho Rebellion. Forces representing the Goryeo government were sent to the island of Jeju to prevent its takeover by Sambyeolcho forces, who had recently conquered the island of Jindo. Part of their instruction was to construct coastal defences, and the first walls were built from Hwabuk (now in Jeju City) east through Jocheon to Hamdeok.{{cite journal |author=전영준 |date=August 2023 |title=탐라－제주 石築文化의 始原과 傳承 |journal=한국학연구 |issue=70 |pages=117–146 |url=https://korea.inha.ac.kr/sites/inhakorea/upfiles/tb_kor_study/70/05.pdf |language=ko}}{{rp|130, 136}} The Sinjŭng Tongguk yŏji sŭngnam records that 1,000 soldiers sent to Jeju specifically to construct coastal defences (referred to as gojangseong ({{Korean|hangul=고장성|hanja=古長城}})) of 300 li. This is also attested in other historical documents, although none give specific dates of construction.{{cite journal |author=김보한 [Kim Bo Han] |year=2017 |title=몽골의 고려･일본 침공과 해안성곽의 성격에 대한 고찰 [Consideration on the Character of Coastal Castles in the Mongolian Invasion of Korea and Japan] |journal=한일관계사연구 |volume=58 |pages=151–177 |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART002300097 |language=ko}}{{rp|159}}{{cite news |url=https://www.ggbn.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=31327 |title=山城 순례 - 4 제주 환해장성(環海長城) |author=이강식 |work=금강신문 |date=2016-05-18 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}{{cite journal |author=전영준 |title=삼별초의 항파두리 토성 입거와 전략적 활용 |journal=역사민속학 |volume=47 |date=2015-03-24 |url=http://archive.jst.re.kr/upload/pdf/RC00039987.pdf |language=ko}}{{rp|214–215}} The reported number of soldiers may actually include up to 730 individuals who were native to Jeju, rather than all 1,000 having been sent from the mainland.{{rp|131}} The Goryeosa reports that two groups of soldiers were sent to Jeju, one of around 200 men and one of around 70.{{rp|160}}

Goryeo forces arrived in Jeju around mid-September 1270. While historical documents suggest these forces built Hwanhaejangseong, given that the Sambyeolcho conquered Jeju in mid-November, it is unlikely that the whole fortress was constructed by the Goryeo forces.{{rp|137}}{{rp|160–161}} Instead, the Sambyeolcho forces likely extended whatever was constructed during this two-month time frame.{{rp|161–162}} The Sambyeolcho landed at Myeongwol (now in Hallim) and Jocheon before defeating government forces. Following this they likely began constructing the coastal walls from Myeongwol eastwards to Gonae (now in Aewol).{{rp|131–132}} Sambyeolcho forces likely continued building from December 1270 to May 1273, expanding the wall to cover six important ports. During this time they also undertook other construction, building Hangpadu fortress and other structures in the Aewol area, as well as improving ports and roads.{{rp|138–139}} The Sambyeolcho may have received more cooperation from residents of the island, although both the Goryeo government and the Sambyeolcho were likely seen as outsiders.{{cite news |url=https://www.khan.co.kr/article/200511151501211 |title=침략과 방어 '6백년의 흔적' 환해장성 |author=강홍균 |work=Kyunghyang Shinmun |date=2005-11-15 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} It has been suggested that perhaps 6,000 civilians were needed to assist the soldiers for construction each day.{{cite web |url=https://news.jejunu.ac.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=14854 |title=600년의 대역사 '환해장성'… 도민들의 피 땀 눈물 서려 |author=좌동철 |publisher=Jeju National University |date=2020-11-18 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}

Hwanhaejangseong formed part of a wider defensive structure also incorporating Hangpadu Fortress, replicating the multi-layered defensive systems established on Ganghwa Island.{{rp|161–162}} There are no records of the original height, width, or shape of the wall, with the records only stating that the wall reached 300 li.{{rp|138}} A length of 300 li would have covered much of the 200 li by 120 li island. It is unclear how much of that length was built by the initial Goryeo forces, how much by the Sambyeolcho, and how much may even have been constructed after that.{{rp|214–215}} If the records are correct, it stretched around half the island. The walls were maintained and perhaps further expanded{{cite web |url=https://jeju.grandculture.net/jeju/index/GC00702683 |title=환해장성 |author=강창언 |publisher=The Academy of Korean Studies |access-date=2025-04-16 |language=ko}} during the Joseon period, when they were thought still useful against foreign ships such as Japanese pirates.{{rp|137–138}} Pirate presence was common from the 13th to 16th centuries, during which there were over 30 pirate invasions.{{cite news |url=https://www.jejusori.net/news/articleView.html?idxno=187006 |title=제주 방어시설의 시작은 삼별초 '환해장성' |author=김일우 |work=Jejusori |date=2017-02-02 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}

File:탐라기년.jpg introduced the name "Hwanhaejangseong"]]

The Tamnagiyeon records that the walls were repaired in 1845 on the order of Jeju's governor at that time.{{rp|139}} This was triggered by the appearance of a "{{ill|strange ship|ko|이양선}}" off the coast. This ship, the British HMS Samarang, surveyed the area near Udo for 40 days.{{cite news |url=https://www.newsje.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=108880 |title=[향토문화]장성밭..화북1동 환해장성①東 |author=고영철 |work=Jeju Environment News |date=2018-05-25 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} It is likely that the remaining walls are parts that were restored five months after the ship departed, a period that likely saw the construction of completely new sections on Udo.{{cite web |url=https://www.heritage.go.kr/heri/cul/culSelectDetail.do?pageNo=1_1_2_0&VdkVgwKey=23,00490000,50 |title=환해장성(지정번호 본번 통계 제외) (環海長城) |publisher=Korea Heritage Service |access-date=2025-04-14 |language=ko}}

Coastal walls had been built prior to these on Ganghwa Island.{{rp|151}} It is possible that in turn Hwanhaejangseong inspired the construction of Genkō Bōrui in Kyushu, Japan. The Mongols invaded Japan the year after the fall of Jeju, and the Genkō Bōrui was built following this to repel any further naval Mongol invasions.{{rp|153, 162}}

The wall was greatly damaged in the late 20th century, especially during the construction of coastal roads.{{cite news |url=https://www.jejunews.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=2178762 |title=무관심에 무너진 환해장성...복원도 '난항' |author=좌동철 |work=Jeju Ilbo |date=2021-01-25 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} The island's coastal ring road was paved in the 1970s, and other coastal roads were built in the 1990s. After much of this damage had been done, the wall was designated a {{ill|Monuments of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province|lt=Monument of Jeju Province|ko|제주특별자치도의 기념물}} No. 49 on January 7, 1998. It was redesignated on November 19, 2021, as part of a new unnumbered list.{{cite web |url=https://seogwipo.grandculture.net/seogwipo/toc/GC04600586 |title=환해장성 |author=강창화 |publisher=The Academy of Korean Studies |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} Restoration efforts began in 2001.

Historical names for the wall include jangseong ({{Korean|hangul=장성|hanja=長城}}), gojangseong ({{Korean|hangul=고장성|hanja=古長城}}), seongdam ({{Korean|hangul=성담|hanja=}}), and seokseong ({{Korean|hangul=석성|hanja=石城}}). There are also historical references to it as the "Great Wall of Tamna" ({{lang|ko|탐라의 만리장성}}), referencing the Great Wall of China.{{cite news |url=https://news.nate.com/view/20130128n32656?mid=n0000 |title=제주인 삶 쌓아올린 환해장성·흑룡만리 |author=한겨레 |work=The Hankyoreh |date=2013-01-28 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} The name "Hwanhaejangseong" was first used in the 1918 Tamnagiyeon, and became common following this use.{{cite news |url=https://www.newsje.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=234670 |title=[향토문화] 제주민들 고단한 삶의 유산.. 환해장성1구역(변형복원) |author=고영철 |work=Jeju Environment News |date=2021-03-08 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}

Construction

The walls were constructed using local basalt. This likely indicates the extensive involvement of local craftsmen, as they would be more familiar with basalt construction, despite historical records noting locals were not always cooperative.{{rp|133–134}} Local input is further evidenced by the wall's similarity to the batdam walls constructed in agricultural areas to separate Jeju's houses and fields, techniques also similar to the Tamna-era walls at Geumseong. This differed from techniques used to build walls around Jindo's Yongjangsanseong fortress.{{rp|135, 139, 141}}

The total length may have reached {{convert|120|km|mi}}. The width averaged around {{convert|2|m|ft}}, with a height of around {{convert|3|m|ft}}. The wall reaches {{convert|4|m|ft}} wide at points, and in some areas there are multiple layers.{{cite journal |author=김형남 |year=2009 |title=제주도 마을의 돌문화 요소에 관한 연구 [A Study on the Cultural Elements of Stone to Village in Jeju] |journal=한국농촌건축학회논문집 |volume=11 |issue=1 |issn=1229-2532 |pages=25–36 |url=https://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/commons/util/originalView.do?cn=JAKO200907639061287&dbt=JAKO&koi=KISTI1.1003%2FJNL.JAKO200907639061287 |language=ko}}{{rp|29}} This double wall design, with the seaward-facing wall being higher, is different from the standard Jeju stone wall construction. The shape and slope of the wall varies. This variation may stem both from the use of local stones, and from differing local topographies.{{rp|29}} Some areas were built with gaps for shooting bows or firearms.{{cite web |url=https://www.heritage.go.kr/heri/cul/culSelectDetail.do?pageNo=1_1_2_0&VdkVgwKey=23,00490100,50 |title=곤을동환해장성 (곤을동環海長城) |publisher=Korea Heritage Service |access-date=2025-04-14 |language=ko}}

In some areas, it can be difficult to determine what was the Hwanhaejangseong and what was another form of piled rock boundary wall. There is a dispute about the authenticity of part of the Gonneuldong section.{{cite news |url=https://www.mediajeju.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=357563 |title="1998년 환해장성 지정 당시 자료 없다" |author=김형훈 |work=미디어제주 |date=2025-04-14 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}

Impacts

The wall was intended to make coastal landings more difficult, as well as providing the defenders opportunities to ambush landing craft.{{rp|133–134}} The decision to build a coastal wall, as opposed to relying on individual fortresses around settlements, was possibly due to the flat land around these settlements making them hard to defend. Alternatively, the wall may have been built to complement the individual village defenses.{{rp|133}}

The presence of the wall reduced the intrusion of salt brought by wind from the ocean onto coastal farms.{{rp|140}} Some of the remaining stretches of the wall lie along the Jeju Olle Trail, which has kept it in public awareness.{{rp|140}}

Remaining structures

class="wikitable floatright" \|+ Designated portions of Hwanhaejangseong{{rp\|140}} ! Location !! Monument No. !! Length !! Address
Gonneuldong (in Hwabuk-dong, Jeju City)	No. 49-1	{{convert\|140\|m\|ft}}	4373 Hwabuk 1(il)-dong, Jeju City, plus 4 other lots
Byeoldo (in Hwabuk-dong, Jeju City)	No. 49-2	{{convert\|620\|m\|ft}}	1533-4 Hwabuk 1(il)-dong, Jeju City, plus 11 other sites{{cite web \|url=https://www.heritage.go.kr/heri/cul/culSelectDetail.do?pageNo=1_1_2_0&VdkVgwKey=23,00490200,50 \|title=별도환해장성 (別刀環海長城) \|publisher=Korea Heritage Service \|access-date=2025-04-14 \|language=ko}}
Samyang (Samyang-dong, Jeju City)	No. 49-3	{{convert\|280\|m\|ft}}	2622-1 Samyang 3(sam)-dong, Jeju City, plus 8 other lots
Aewol	No. 49-4	{{convert\|360\|m\|ft}}	1957-1 Aewol-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju City, plus 8 other lots
Bukchon (in Jocheon)	No. 49-5	{{convert\|250\|m\|ft}}	393-3 Bukchon-ri, Jocheon-eup, Jeju City, plus 1 other lots
Dongbok (in Gujwa)	No. 49-6	{{convert\|150\|m\|ft}}	687-5 Dongbok-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju City, plus two other lots{{cite web \|url=https://www.heritage.go.kr/heri/cul/culSelectDetail.do?pageNo=1_1_2_0&VdkVgwKey=23,00490600,50 \|title=동복환해장성 (東福環海長城) \|publisher=Korea Heritage Service \|access-date=2025-04-14 \|language=ko}}
Haengwon (in Gujwa)	No. 49-7	{{convert\|310\|m\|ft}}	Lot San 2, Haengwon-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju City, and other lots
Handong (in Gujwa)	No. 49-8	{{convert\|290\|m\|ft}}	1690 Handong-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju City, plus 4 other lots
Onpyeong (in Seongsan)	No. 49-9	{{convert\|2120\|m\|ft}}	732 Hwanhaejangseong-ro, Seongsan-eup, Jeju City, plus 6 other lots
Sinsan (in Seongsan)	No. 49-10	{{convert\|600\|m\|ft}}	49-5 Sinsan-ri, Seongsan-eup, Jeju City

There are at least 14 areas, possibly 19 or 28, where parts of the wall remain. Of these, {{convert|5120|m|ft}} was designated {{ill|Monuments of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province|lt=Monument of Jeju Province|ko|제주특별자치도의 기념물}} number 49. This is divided into 10 separately designated stretches,{{rp|140}} each managed with their own regulations.{{cite news |url=https://www.ktin.net/62947415 |title=제주특별자치도, 문화재로 지정된 환해장성(環海長城) 등 건축 행위 완화 |author=박상기 |work=Kyungin Today News |date=2023-05-04 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} The longest is the Onpyeong portion, at {{convert|2120|m|ft}}, although this can also be divided into four smaller sections.{{cite web |url=https://www.heritage.go.kr/heri/cul/culSelectDetail.do?pageNo=1_1_2_0&VdkVgwKey=23,00490900,50 |title=온평환해장성 (온평환해장성) |publisher=Korea Heritage Service |access-date=2025-04-14 |language=ko}} Other remains exist outside of the officially designated areas.{{rp|161}}

The wall has been damaged by activities including construction, fish farming, and tourists building rock towers.{{rp|29}}{{cite web |url=https://jeju.grandculture.net/jeju/index/GC00710666?category=%EC%A7%80%EB%AA%85%2F%EA%B8%B0%EA%B4%80%EB%AA%85&depth=2&name=%EC%9E%90&page=20&search=%EC%A0%9C%EC%A3%BC |title=애월환해장성 |author=한금순 |publisher=Academy of Korean Studies |access-date=2025-04-18 |language=ko}}{{cite news |url=https://www.jejunews.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=2154702 |title=점점 무너지고 있는 제주 환해장성 |author=김두영 |work=Jeju Ilbo |date=2020-01-13 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} This is similar to other stone defensive structures in Jeju, which often lack protection.{{cite news |url=https://www.yna.co.kr/view/AKR20190212120200056 |title=훼손되고 방치된 환해장성…제주 향토유적 관리 손놔 |author=고성식 |work=Yonhap News Agency |date=2019-02-12 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}} The designated areas are better cared for than other remnants. However, even these have been damaged by typhoons and other storms. Restoration is hampered by a lack of detailed knowledge of the original construction techniques, and some reconstruction efforts have been criticized as not reflecting the original design.{{cite news |url=https://www.headlinejeju.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=213332 |title='신산 환해장성' 복원...그러나, 왜 다른 느낌 날까? |author=김환철 |work=HeadlineJeju |date=2014-06-21 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}{{cite news |url=https://www.yna.co.kr/view/AKR20220210135000056 |title="제주 환해장성 절반 이상 복원 시점서 원형 조사 '뒷북'" |author=변지철 |work=Yonhap News Agency |date=2021-12-18 |access-date=2025-04-19 |language=ko}}

References

External links

[https://m.blog.naver.com/happyjejudo/222906428984 Blog with photos of various sections]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNzsyBXTUSY Youtube video of the Aewol portion]
{{cite journal |author=김호준 |year=2020 |title=삼별초 제주도 항몽유적의 축성시기 검토 - 항파두리성과 환해장성을 중심으로 [A Review Of The Construction Period of Sambyeolcho's Anti-Mongolian Movement Historic Sites – Focusing on Hangpaduriseong Fortress and Hwanhaejangseong Fortress] |journal=동아시아고대학 |volume=60 |pages=367–404 |issn=1229-8298 |url=https://www.earticle.net/Article/A388391 |language=ko}}
{{cite journal |author=김일우 |year=2016 |title=조선시대 제주 關防施設의 설치와 분포양상 [The Establishment of Jeju Defense Installations and Their Distribution Pattern during the Joseon Period] |journal=한국사학보 |volume=65 |doi=10.21490/jskh.2016.11.65.285 |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE07071551 |pages=285–317}}

Category:1270 in Asia

Category:Buildings and structures in Jeju Province

Category:Castles in South Korea

Category:Historic Sites of South Korea

Category:History of Jeju Province

Category:Military history of South Korea

Category:Sambyeolcho

Category:Stone culture in Jeju Province

Category:Tourist attractions in Jeju Province