Jeju Island

File:La-coree-ou-tchosen-7.png

Historically, the island has been called by many different names including:

• Doi ({{Korean|도이|島夷|labels=no|lit=Island barbarian}})
• Dongyeongju ({{Korean|동영주|東瀛州|labels=no}})
• Juho ({{Korean|주호|州胡|labels=no}})
• Tammora ({{Korean|탐모라|耽牟羅|labels=no}})
• Seomna ({{Korean|섭라|涉羅|labels=no}})
• Tangna ({{Korean|탁나|乇羅|labels=no}})
• Tamna ({{Korean|탐나|耽羅|labels=no}})
• Quelpart,{{Cite journal|title=The Island of Quelpart|journal=Bulletin of the American Geographical Society|volume=37|issue=7|pages=396–408|jstor=198722|last1=Hulbert|first1=H. B|doi=10.2307/198722|year=1905}}{{cite web |url=http://www.drben.net/publishImages/Koreas_Report~Sources~Korea_Maps~Historic~1945~Map-Japan-Korea-1945-01~~element1972.jpg |format=JPG |title=Photographic image of map |website= |access-date=26 June 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170406160926if_/http://www.drben.net/publishImages/Koreas_Report~Sources~Korea_Maps~Historic~1945~Map-Japan-Korea-1945-01~~element1972.jpg |archive-date=6 April 2017 |url-status=dead}}{{Cite journal|title=Quelpart Island and Its People|journal=Geographical Review|volume=16|issue=1|pages=60–72|jstor=208503|last1=Hall|first1=R. Burnett|doi=10.2307/208503|year=1926|bibcode=1926GeoRv..16...60H }} Quelparte{{cite web|title=The Queen of Quelparte|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PjUXAAAAYAAJ|last1 = Hulbert|first1 = Archer Butler|year = 1902}} or Quelpaert Island{{Cite journal|title=The Name of Quelpaert Island|journal=Isis|volume=38|issue=3/4|pages=231–235|doi=10.1086/348077|year=1948|last1=Sokol|first1=A. E|s2cid=144230819}}
• Junweonhado ({{Korean|준원하도|준원下島|labels=no}} meaning "southern part of peninsula")
• Taekseungnido ({{Korean|택승니도|labels=no}}, meaning "the peaceful hot island in Joseon")
• Samdado ({{Korean|삼다도|三多島|labels=no}}) meaning "Island of Three Abundances"){{Cite web|url=https://www.softschools.com/facts/wonders_of_the_world/jeju_island_facts/105/|title=Jeju Island Facts|website=Softschools.com|access-date=3 January 2021|archive-date=21 October 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211021104336/https://www.softschools.com/facts/wonders_of_the_world/jeju_island_facts/105/|url-status=dead}}
• Sammudo ({{Korean|삼무도|三無島|labels=no}})
• Cheju (spelling until 7 July 2000)

Before the Japanese annexation in 1910, the island was usually known as Quelpart (Quelpaërt, Quelpaert) to Europeans;{{Cite web|url=http://fs.unm.edu/TheIslandOfQuelpart.pdf|title=The Island of Quelpart|website=Fs.unm.edu}} during the occupation it was known by the Japanese name Saishū. The name Quelpart coming from the French language is attested in Dutch no later than 1648 and may have denoted the first Dutch ship to spot the island, the quelpaert de Brack around 1642, or rather some visual similarity of the island from some angle to this class of ships (a small dispatch vessel, also called a galiot).

The first European explorers to sight the island, the Portuguese, called it Ilha de Ladrones (Island of Thieves).{{cite journal |last1=Sokol |first1=A. E. |date=February 1948 |title=The Name Of Quelpaert Island |url=https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/abs/10.1086/348077 |journal= Isis|volume=38 |issue=3/4 |pages=231–235 |doi=10.1086/348077 |s2cid=144230819 |access-date=8 July 2021}}

The name "Fungma island" appeared in the "Atlas of China" of M. Martini who arrived in China as a missionary in 1655.{{cite web|url= http://eastsea1994.org/data/bbsData/14911233821.pdf|title= The memory and traces of marine exchange:Jeju Island in eastern and western antique maps|website= eastsea1994.org|access-date= 3 January 2021|archive-date= 31 August 2021|archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20210831171058/http://eastsea1994.org/data/bbsData/14911233821.pdf|url-status= dead}}

{{Category more|Tamna|Samseong mythology}}

Jeju Island has been inhabited by modern humans since the early Neolithic period. There is no discovered historical record of the founding or early history of Tamna. One legend tells that the three divine founders of the country—Go ({{lang|ko|고}}), Yang ({{lang|ko|양}}), and Bu ({{lang|ko|부}})—emerged from three holes in the ground in the 24th century BC. These holes, known as the Samseonghyeol ({{lang|ko|삼성혈}}), are still preserved in Jeju City.{{cite web |title=Jeju (Cheju) Island Travel Information: Samseonghyeol |url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/travel2/cheju/199 |access-date=30 July 2014}}{{Cite book |title=Sources of Korean tradition. 2: From the sixteenth to the twentieth centuries / ed by Yong-ho Ch'oe ... with the collaboration of Donald Baker ... and contributions by Martina Deuchler |date=2001 |publisher=Columbia University Press |isbn=978-0-231-10566-8 |location=New York Chichester}} Until 938 AD, the island was an independent kingdom called Tamna (which means 'island country') when it became a vassal state of Korea under the Goryeo dynasty. In April 1330, in the midst of political purges of the Yuan dynasty, Toghon Temür had been sent in Exile on this remote island, which was then part of the vassal Korean Goryeo.Kyung Moon Hwang A History of Korea, London: Palgrave, 2010 p. 56. In 1404, Taejong of Joseon placed the island under firm central control and brought the Tamna kingdom to an end.

From April 1948 to May 1949, it was the site of the Jeju uprising, during which around 30,000 people were killed and 40,000 fled to Japan. The Workers' Party of South Korea (WPSK) launched an insurgency against the government in April 1948 which was brutally repressed by the US-backed South Korean regime of Syngman Rhee. In 2003, the National Committee for Investigation of the Truth about the Jeju 3 April Incident described the event as a genocide. The commission verified 14,373 people were killed during the uprising, 86% by security forces and 14% by rebels. The commission estimated the total death toll at around 30,000.The National Committee for the Investigation of the Truth about the Jeju 3 April Incident (15 December 2003). "The Jeju April 3 Incident Investigation Report" (PDF). Office of the Prime Minister, Republic of Korea. Archived from the original (PDF) on 21 September 2015. Retrieved 17 August 2015. Other sources have estimated higher at 80,000 to 100,000 killed.{{Citation |last=Cumings |first=Bruce |title=Rapprochement in Postwar History: Implications for North Korea |date=2010 |work=New Challenges of North Korean Foreign Policy |pages=205–222 |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1057/9780230113978_10 |access-date=26 September 2024 |place=New York |publisher=Palgrave Macmillan US |isbn=978-1-349-28797-0}}{{Cite journal |last=Tucker |first=Spencer C. |date=December 2010 |title=The Korean War, 1950–53: from maneuver to stalemate |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/10163271.2010.519926 |journal=Korean Journal of Defense Analysis |volume=22 |issue=4 |pages=421–433 |doi=10.1080/10163271.2010.519926 |issn=1016-3271}} The act of mentioning the uprising was punishable by beatings, torture, and harsh prison sentences by the South Korea government until the mid-1990s, after which the South Korean government finally admitted that the Jeju uprising had occurred.{{Cite journal |last=Zelikow |first=Philip |last2=Johnson |first2=Chalmers |date=2000 |title=Blowback: The Costs and Consequences of American Empire |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/20049919 |journal=Foreign Affairs |volume=79 |issue=5 |pages=138 |doi=10.2307/20049919 |issn=0015-7120}}

Jeju is a volcanic island, dominated by Hallasan: a volcano {{convert|1,947|m|ft}} high and the highest mountain in South Korea. The island measures approximately {{convert|73|km|mi}} across, east to west, and {{convert|41|km|mi}} from north to south.[http://www1.korea-np.co.jp/pk/124th_issue/99121501.htm Map of Korea: Cheju Island] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304200212/http://www1.korea-np.co.jp/pk/124th_issue/99121501.htm |date=4 March 2016 }} The People's Korea. Accessed 8 July 2012 The island also has around 360 oreum: small extinct volcanoes or parasitic cones.{{Citation |last=권 |first=동희 |script-title=ko:오름 |encyclopedia=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0068824 |access-date=13 July 2024 |publisher=Academy of Korean Studies |language=ko}} Many of these are now popular tourist attractions, such as Geomunoreum,{{Citation |last=권 |first=동희 |script-title=ko:제주 선흘리 거문오름 (濟州 善屹里 거문오름) |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0068777 |access-date=10 July 2024 |publisher=Academy of Korean Studies |language=ko |encyclopedia=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}} Yongnuni Oreum,{{Citation |last=김 |first=태호 |script-title=ko:용눈이오름 (龍눈이오름) |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0074992 |access-date=11 July 2024 |publisher=Academy of Korean Studies |language=ko |encyclopedia=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}} and Geum Oreum.{{Cite web |title=Geumak (Geum) Oreum Volcanic Cone |url=https://www.visitjeju.net/en/detail/view?contentsid=CNTS_000000000019460 |access-date=13 July 2024 |website=www.visitjeju.net |language=en}}

The island formed by volcanic eruptions approximately two million years ago, during the Pleistocene epoch.{{Citation

| last1 = Woo

| first1 = Kyung

| last2 = Sohn

| first2 = Young

| last3 = Ahn

| first3 = Ung

| last4 = Spate

| first4 = Andy

| title = Jeju Island Geopark - A Volcanic Wonder of Korea

| chapter = Geology of Jeju Island

| volume = 1

| pages = 13–14

| date = January 2013

| doi = 10.1007/978-3-642-20564-4_5

| series = Geoparks of the World (closed)

| isbn = 978-3-642-20563-7

}} The island consists chiefly of basalt and lava.

File:Spirited Garden 06.jpg

An area covering about 12% ({{convert|224|km2|mi2|disp=or}}) of Jeju Island is called gotjawal, a local term for forests.{{cite web|url=http://www.riss4u.net/link?id=A35499718|title=RISS 통합검색 - 국내학술지논문 상세보기|website=Riss4u.net}} This area remained uncultivated until the 21st century, as its base of 'a'a lava made it difficult to develop for agriculture. Because this forest remained pristine for so long, it has a unique ecology.{{cite web|url=http://www.riss4u.net/link?id=U10812496_003|title=RISS 통합검색 - 학위논문 상세보기|website=Riss4u.net}}

The forest is the main source of groundwater and thus the main water source for the half million people of the island, because rainwater penetrates directly into the aquifer through the cracks of the 'a'a lava under the forest. Gotjawal forest is considered an internationally important wetland under the Ramsar Convention by some researchersJang, Yong-chang and Chanwon Lee, 2009, "Gotjawal Forest as an internationally important wetland," Journal of Korean Wetlands Studies, 2009, Vol 1. because it is the habitat of unique species of plants and is the main source of water for the residents, although to date it has not been declared a Ramsar site.{{cite web|url=http://www.ramsar.org/sitelist.pdf |title=Ramsar site list |access-date=20 June 2007 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090114195859/http://www.ramsar.org/sitelist.pdf |archive-date=14 January 2009 }} Accessed June 2009

File:Hallasan 2.jpg|Baengnokdam in Hallasan

File:KOCIS Jeju Island (5982720813).jpg|Mountains in Jeju

File:제주 중문대포해안주상절리대 (Jeju Jungmun Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff).jpg|Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff

File:Sanbangsan (5983281424).jpg|Sanbangsan

File:Seongsan Ilchulbong from the air.jpg|Seongsan Ilchulbong

File:Goseong-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea - panoramio - song songroov (51).jpg|Seopjikoji (섭지코지)

File:Jeongbang loin de la mer.jpg|Jeongbang Waterfall

File:Jeju2022OSM.png|Detailed map of Jeju Island

File:Jeju black sand beach swimmers.jpg|A black sand beach in south-western Jeju

File:Bomunsa temple view jeju.jpg|View from Bomunsa temple

File:Cheonjiyeon waterfall jeju korea 2.jpg|Cheonjiyeon waterfall in Seogwipo

File:Jeju Volcanic rock fence and home in Jeju.jpg|The island's volcanic basalt rock was traditionally used as a building material

File:Jeju World Cup Stadium, Jeju Island.jpg|The name of the soccer stadium in Jeju Island is Jeju World Cup Stadium.

• About 2 million years ago, the island of Jeju was formed through volcanic activity.
• About 1.2 million years ago, a magma chamber formed under the sea floor and began to erupt.
• About 700 thousand years ago, the island had been formed through volcanic activity. Volcanic activity then stopped for approximately 100 thousand years.
• About 300 thousand years ago, volcanic activity restarted along the coastline.
• About 100 thousand years ago, volcanic activity formed Hallasan Mountain.
• About 25 thousand years ago, lateral eruptions around Hallasan Mountain left multiple oreum (smaller 'parasitic' cones on the flanks of the primary cone).
• Volcanic activity that stopped and prolonged weathering and erosion helped shape the island.{{Cite web|url=http://nature.jeju.go.kr/index.asp?sso=ok |archive-url=https://archive.today/20160712043220/http://nature.jeju.go.kr/index.asp?sso=ok |url-status=dead |archive-date=12 July 2016 |script-title=ko:제주특별자치도 자연환경생태정보시스템 |website=nature.jeju.go.kr |access-date=14 March 2016 }}

Most of Jeju Island has a humid subtropical climate (Cfa in the Köppen climate classification). Four distinct seasons are experienced in Jeju: winters are cool with moderate rainfall, while summers are hot and humid with very high rainfall.

Jeju City, the northern part of the island, tends to be colder in winter than the southern part due to the influence of continental seasonal winds. Gosan-ri, located on the west side of the island, has the lowest annual average precipitation on the island. However, unlike most parts of mainland Korea, the seasonal precipitation in Gosan-ri is evenly distributed. The Chuja Islands, which belong to Jeju City, are an archipelago located between mainland Korea and Jeju Island and also have a humid subtropical climate (Cfa).

{{Jeju City weatherbox}}

Seogwipo, the southern part of the island, is relatively warmer in winter than Jeju City because Hallasan in the middle of the island blocks continental seasonal winds. Downtown Seogwipo has the highest average temperature in January in Korea, even compared to mainland Korea. Seongsan-eup, on the southeastern side of the island, is directly affected by both the East Asian monsoon and the Tsushima Current, so annual precipitation is very high. Seogwipo is one of the regions with the highest annual precipitation in Korea.

{{Seogwipo weatherbox}}

The climate of the highlands in the middle of the island where Hallasan is located is quite different from that of the rest of the island. As the altitude increases, the average temperature decreases and the climate becomes colder. The highlands of Jeju Island have the highest annual precipitation in Korea.

{{Weather box

| location = Seongpanak, Hallasan (elevation {{convert|760|m|abbr=on}}, 1999–2020 normals)

| metric first = Y

| single line = Y

| Jan high C = 2.8

| Feb high C = 4.7

| Mar high C = 9.0

| Apr high C = 14.5

| May high C = 18.9

| Jun high C = 21.4

| Jul high C = 24.7

| Aug high C = 24.7

| Sep high C = 21.1

| Oct high C = 16.6

| Nov high C = 11.2

| Dec high C = 5.2

| year high C = 14.6

| Jan mean C = -0.4

| Feb mean C = 1.0

| Mar mean C = 4.9

| Apr mean C = 10.2

| May mean C = 14.7

| Jun mean C = 17.7

| Jul mean C = 21.4

| Aug mean C = 21.6

| Sep mean C = 17.8

| Oct mean C = 12.8

| Nov mean C = 7.4

| Dec mean C = 1.9

| year mean C = 10.9

| Jan low C = -3.1

| Feb low C = -2.3

| Mar low C = 0.9

| Apr low C = 5.9

| May low C = 10.6

| Jun low C = 14.3

| Jul low C = 18.5

| Aug low C = 18.9

| Sep low C = 15.0

| Oct low C = 9.3

| Nov low C = 4.0

| Dec low C = -1.0

| year low C = 7.6

| precipitation colour = green

| Jan precipitation mm = 137.1

| Feb precipitation mm = 182.4

| Mar precipitation mm = 258.8

| Apr precipitation mm = 414.9

| May precipitation mm = 465.9

| Jun precipitation mm = 451.7

| Jul precipitation mm = 583.9

| Aug precipitation mm = 717.0

| Sep precipitation mm = 581.1

| Oct precipitation mm = 237.2

| Nov precipitation mm = 197.5

| Dec precipitation mm = 153.5

| year precipitation mm = 4381.0

| unit precipitation days = 0.1 mm

| Jan precipitation days = 13.0

| Feb precipitation days = 11.5

| Mar precipitation days = 11.0

| Apr precipitation days = 10.8

| May precipitation days = 11.1

| Jun precipitation days = 14.1

| Jul precipitation days = 17.8

| Aug precipitation days = 18.7

| Sep precipitation days = 15.6

| Oct precipitation days = 9.2

| Nov precipitation days = 11.6

| Dec precipitation days = 13.4

| year precipitation days =

| source = Korea Meteorological Administration

}}

{{Weather box

|location = Witse Oreum, Hallasan (elevation {{convert|1673|m|abbr=on}}, 2003–2009 normals)

|metric first = Y

|single line = Y

|Jan high C = -1.6

|Feb high C = 0.9

|Mar high C = 3.4

|Apr high C = 10.0

|May high C = 14.9

|Jun high C = 18.1

|Jul high C = 20.3

|Aug high C = 20.6

|Sep high C = 18.1

|Oct high C = 13.2

|Nov high C = 6.8

|Dec high C = 0.0

|year high C = 10.4

|Jan mean C = -5.9

|Feb mean C = -3.5

|Mar mean C = -0.8

|Apr mean C = 5.2

|May mean C = 10.3

|Jun mean C = 14.0

|Jul mean C = 17.4

|Aug mean C = 17.4

|Sep mean C = 14.2

|Oct mean C = 8.2

|Nov mean C = 2.2

|Dec mean C = -3.5

|year mean C = 6.4

|Jan low C = -9.1

|Feb low C = -7.5

|Mar low C = -5.1

|Apr low C = 0.7

|May low C = 5.7

|Jun low C = 10.4

|Jul low C = 14.7

|Aug low C = 14.5

|Sep low C = 11.0

|Oct low C = 4.3

|Nov low C = -0.9

|Dec low C = -6.6

|year low C = 2.7

|precipitation colour = green

|Jan precipitation mm = 46.9

|Feb precipitation mm = 128.0

|Mar precipitation mm = 301.2

|Apr precipitation mm = 426.1

|May precipitation mm = 653.1

|Jun precipitation mm = 651.9

|Jul precipitation mm = 742.3

|Aug precipitation mm = 836.4

|Sep precipitation mm = 526.7

|Oct precipitation mm = 126.5

|Nov precipitation mm = 165.8

|Dec precipitation mm = 64.6

|year precipitation mm = 4669.4

|source = Jeju Regional Meteorological Administration{{cite web

|url=http://web.kma.go.kr/servlet/NeoboardProcess?mode=download&bid=press2&num=753&fno=2&callback=http%3a%2f%2fweb.kma.go.kr%2faboutkma%2fintro%2fjeju%2fopeninfo%2fpress.jsp&ses=USERSESSION&k=ATC201011301744392_452c9e0a-2c58-428b-8ee1-79f2d198c8df.pdf

|publisher=Jeju Regional Meteorological Administration

|access-date=24 May 2023

|script-title=ko:제주도상세기후특성집(2010) 윗세오름(871)

|archive-date=1 October 2021

|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211001093945/http://web.kma.go.kr/servlet/NeoboardProcess?mode=download&bid=press2&num=753&fno=2&callback=http%3a%2f%2fweb.kma.go.kr%2faboutkma%2fintro%2fjeju%2fopeninfo%2fpress.jsp&ses=USERSESSION&k=ATC201011301744392_452c9e0a-2c58-428b-8ee1-79f2d198c8df.pdf

|url-status=dead }}

}}

In January 2016, a cold wave affected Jeju Island. Snow and frigid weather forced the cancellation of 1,200 flights on Jeju Island, stranding approximately 90,300 passengers.{{cite news|last=Ap|first=Tiffany|publisher=CNN|date=25 January 2016|access-date=25 January 2016|title=Deaths, travel disruption as bitter cold grips Asia|url=http://edition.cnn.com/2016/01/25/asia/asia-cold-weather-travel-disruption/index.html?eref=edition}}

• Jeju Black, indigenous cattle breed
• Jeju Black pig, indigenous pig breed
• Jeju horse, indigenous horse breed
• Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes

{{Reflist}}

{{Wikivoyage|Jeju}}

• [https://artsandculture.google.com/story/jeju-volcanic-island-and-lava-tubes/xQISWFnBDOBRKg Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes] World Heritage site on Google Arts and Culture
• {{OSM relation|2398560}}

{{New7Wonders of Nature|state=expanded}}

{{portal bar|South Korea|Islands|Geography}}

{{Authority control}}

Category:Biosphere reserves of South Korea

Category:Islands of Jeju Province

Category:Islands of the East China Sea

Category:Islands of the Sea of Japan

Category:Islands of the Yellow Sea

Category:Volcanic islands