JW Anderson
{{Short description|UK fashion label}}
{{Infobox company
| name = JW Anderson
| logo =
| type = Private
| key_people = Jonathan Anderson (creative director)
| industry = Retail
| products = Luxury goods
| revenue =
| owner = LVMH (minority stake)
| parent =
| homepage = {{URL|jwanderson.com}}
| footnotes =
| foundation = {{start date and age|2008}}
| founder = Jonathan Anderson
| location_city = London
| location_country = United Kingdom
| locations =
}}
JW Anderson is a UK fashion label, founded by Jonathan Anderson. Anderson, who is originally from Magherafelt in Northern Ireland established JW Anderson in 2008 and subsequently launched his fashion house in London. The brand initially focused on menswear, before moving into womenswear in 2010. From 2012 onwards, the brand and its designer have collaborated with a number of retail fashion brands, most notably Topshop, Versace, and Uniqlo, with LVMH acquiring a minority stake in the brand in 2013.
JW Anderson won both men's and women's brand of the year at British Fashion Council's The Fashion Awards in 2015, the first brand to pick up both awards in the same year.
History
Jonathan Anderson graduated from the London College of Fashion, before initially pursuing a career in acting. While working at the Studio Theatre in Washington D.C., he became interested in costume design and went on to study a degree in menswear design, graduating in 2005.{{cite web|last1=Van Meter|first1=William|title=Jonathan Anderson Shares the Inspirations Behind His Brand and Loewe|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/jonathan-anderson-shares-the-inspirations-behind-his-brand-and-loewe-1455120504|publisher=Wall Street Journal|date=February 13, 2016}} He worked as visual merchandiser at Prada, working alongside the designer, Manuela Pavesi. Anderson then moved to London to establish his eponymous label in 2008.{{cite web|title=Jonathan Anderson's Live Mosaic|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/jonathan-anderson|publisher=Business of Fashion}}
JW Anderson launched a menswear line in 2008. It later introduced a womenswear line for autumn 2010. During the same year, JW Anderson received sponsorship from the British Fashion Council committee, presenting their first catwalk collection at London Fashion Week.{{cite web|title=JW Anderson|url=http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/designer_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1664|publisher=British Fashion Council}} JW Anderson secured its second sponsorship from the British Fashion Council in 2011, before winning the Emerging Talent Award in 2012.
JW Anderson became a more widely known brand in Britain after Jonathan Anderson collaborated with Topshop in 2012 creating a limited edition collection of clothing and accessories.{{cite web|last1=Sowray|first1=Bibby|title=Topshop announce JW Anderson collaboration|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9329583/Topshop-announce-JW-Anderson-collaboration.html|work=The Telegraph|date=June 13, 2012}} Vogue covered the brand's spring/summer collection that same year, including paisley-print daywear pyjamas, which sold out shortly after launch.{{cite web|last1=Alexander|first1=Ella|title=JW Anderson For Topshop|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/jw-anderson-launches-topshop-collection-pictures|publisher=Vogue|date=September 4, 2012}}{{cite web|last1=Moss|first1=Hilary|title=First Looks: J.W. Anderson for Topshop|url=http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/09/first-looks-jw-anderson-for-topshop.html|publisher=NY Magazine|date=September 4, 2012}} During London Fashion Week in 2012, JW Anderson announced it was to host its first menswear-dedicated fashion week show. JW Anderson and Topshop collaborated again in early 2013.{{cite web|last1=Alexander|first1=Ella|title=JW Anderson For Topshop Take Two|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/summer-2013-collection-launches-pictures|publisher=Vogue|date=February 1, 2013}}{{cite web|last1=Fox|first1=Imogen|title=JW Anderson to launch Topshop range|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/jun/13/j-w-anderson-topshop|work=The Guardian|date=June 13, 2012}}
In June 2013, Jonathan Anderson showcased his first collection for Versace. The collection was for Versace's diffusion line, Versus, with Anderson as the line's relaunch designer. Part of Jonathan Anderson's focus as a designer for JW Anderson was on unisex clothes, and he carried this fashion ethos with him to Versace.{{cite web |last=François |first=Laurent “Lilzeon” |date=October 4, 2013 |title=The end of gender in fashion? |url=http://hit-bag.com/2013/10/04/the-end-of-gender-in-fashion-jw-anderson-levis-topman/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131019205657/http://hit-bag.com/2013/10/04/the-end-of-gender-in-fashion-jw-anderson-levis-topman/ |archive-date=October 19, 2013 |website=hit-bag.com |publisher=The Boulevardiers and their Hit Bag}}{{cite web |last1=Cochrane |first1=Lauren |date=May 16, 2013 |title=Versace unveils first Versus collection by JW Anderson in New York |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2013/may/16/versace-versus-jw-anderson-new-york |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230406214840/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2013/may/16/versace-versus-jw-anderson-new-york |archive-date=April 6, 2023 |work=The Guardian}} It was also rumoured at the same time that LVMH were considering Anderson for the role of creative director at Louis Vuitton.{{cite web|title=Exclusive: LVMH considers creative director change at Louis Vuitton|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-lvmh-designer-idUSKCN100216|publisher=Reuters|date=July 20, 2016}} It was announced in September 2013 that LVMH had acquired a minority stake in JW Anderson.{{cite web|last1=Milligan|first1=Lauren|title=JW Anderson Joins LVMH And Will Helm Loewe|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/jw-anderson-sells-minority-stake-to-lvmh-and-hired-as-loewe-creative-director|publisher=Vogue|date=September 25, 2013}} As part of the deal, Anderson was announced as creative director of the Spanish fashion house, Loewe.{{cite web|last1=Neate|first1=Rupert|title=LVMH buys stake in fashion label JW Anderson|url=https://www.theguardian.com/business/2013/sep/26/lvmh-buys-stake-jw-anderson|work=The Guardian|date=September 26, 2013}}
JW Anderson gave exclusive livestreaming rights to the queer dating app Grindr for their Autumn/Winter 2016 fashion show.{{Cite news |last=Schneier |first=Matthew |date=2016-01-06 |title=Grindr, the Gay Dating App, Hooks Up With Fashion |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/07/fashion/grindr-the-gay-dating-app-hooks-up-with-fashion.html |access-date=2023-05-10 |issn=0362-4331}} Users of the app were given a link to the livestream in their inboxes, which they opened in their phone or tablet browsers. The show was played on a loop for twenty-four hours after it was completed.{{Cite news |last=Cochrane |first=Lauren |date=2016-01-10 |title=JW Anderson mixes mundane and strange in show streamed on Grindr |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/jan/10/jw-anderson-mixes-mundane-and-strange-in-fashion-show-streamed-on-grindr |access-date=2023-05-10 |issn=0261-3077}}
Workshops
Taking inspiration from the Omega Workshops, JW Anderson announced it would be launching its own workshops in Shoreditch, London.{{cite web|last1=Remsen|first1=Mick|title=Up Close and Personal With Jonathan Anderson and A$AP Rocky's New Collab|url=http://www.vogue.com/article/aap-rocky-jonathan-anderson-collaboration|publisher=Vogue|date=June 9, 2016}} Formerly known as the JW Anderson Workshops, it was created to merge an exhibition experience within a store.{{cite web|last1=Périer|first1=Marie|title=JW Anderson launches workshops in London|url=http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-news/diaporama/jwanderson-launches-workshops-in-london/25018|publisher=Vogue|date=January 22, 2016}}
The workshops housed a number of collections and collaborations throughout 2016, including with A$AP Rocky, M/M Paris,{{cite web|last1=Guisset|first1=Brune|title=The collab: M/M Paris for JW Anderson Workshops|url=http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-news/diaporama/the-collab-m-m-paris-for-jwanderson-workshops/36916|publisher=Vogue|date=September 22, 2016}} Printed Matter, Inc,{{cite web|last1=Scheier|first1=Matthew|title=Jonathan Anderson Taps ASAP Rocky, Fan Turned Collaborator|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2016/06/09/fashion/jonathan-anderson-asap-rocky-jw-anderson.html|publisher=NY Times|date=June 8, 2016}} Mackintosh,{{cite web|last1=Périer|first1=Marie|title=Obsession of the day: The Mackintosh x JW Anderson trench coat|url=http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-news/diaporama/obsession-of-the-day-the-mackintosh-x-jwanderson-trench-coat/34217|publisher=Vogue|date=May 23, 2016}}{{cite web|last1=Moss|first1=Victoria|title=Reign of glory: how British heritage house Mackintosh took the catwalks by storm|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/womens-style/reign-of-glory-how-british-heritage-house-mackintosh-took-the-ca/|work=Telegraph|date=September 18, 2016}} Giles Round,{{cite web|last1=Dubs|first1=Thaïs|title=JW Anderson Workshops and Giles Round recreate the Shiva vase|url=http://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/culture/diaporama/jwanderson-workshops-and-giles-round-recreate-the-shiva-vase/34262|publisher=Vogue|date=May 24, 2016}} and photographers Jamie Hawkesworth,{{cite web|title=Jamie Hawkesworth at JW Anderson Workshops|url=http://becauselondon.com/culture/2016/11/jamie-hawkesworth-at-jw-anderson-workshops/|publisher=BecauseLondon|date=November 29, 2016}} Ian David Baker,{{cite web|last1=Eckardt|first1=Stephanie|title=Get to Know Photographer Ian David Baker, J.W. Anderson's Latest Collaborator|url=http://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/jwanderson-workshops-ian-david-baker-photography/all|publisher=W|date=March 26, 2016}} and Alasdair McLellan.{{cite web|last1=Sauvalle|first1=Julien|title=Daily Crush: J.W. Anderson's 'Paolo' T-Shirt by Alasdair McLellan|url=http://www.out.com/fashion/2017/1/06/daily-crush-jw-andersons-paolo-t-shirt-alasdair-mclellan|publisher=Out|date=January 9, 2017}}
The JW Anderson Workshops also co-released a book with Spanish publisher Luis Venegas in 2016.{{cite web|last1=Lessard|first1=Hugo|title=J.W Anderson workshop and Luis Venegas publication to co-release a mystery book|url=http://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/culture/diaporama/jw-anderson-workshop-and-luis-venegas-publication-to-co-release-a-mystery-book/25225|publisher=Vogue|date=January 29, 2016}}
Exhibition
File:Harry Styles cardigan that sparked a movement V&A (51383974912).jpg
JW Anderson announced their first exhibition in September 2016, Disobedient Bodies at The Hepworth Wakefield from March to June 2017.{{cite web|last1=Radnor|first1=Abigail|title='It is quite petrifying': designer JW Anderson on his first exhibition|url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2017/mar/10/quite-petrifying-jw-anderson-hepworth-wakefield-disobedient-bodies|work=The Guardian|date=March 10, 2017}} The show aimed to create discussion on the theme of the body,{{cite web|last1=Menkes|first1=Suzy|title=Disobedient Bodies|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/suzy-menkes-jw-anderson-disobedient-bodies-hepworth-wakefield|publisher=Vogue|date=March 17, 2017}} specifically how each body part can disobey the body. More than 100 works were presented at the exhibition, including Issey Miyake and Yves Saint Laurent.
In 2020, JW Anderson made the [https://www.jwanderson.com/gb/cardigan-pattern knitting pattern] pattern for a rainbow cardigan musician Harry Styles wore in rehearsals for the Today Show available to the public after knitting it became a DIY challenge on TikTok.{{Cite web |last=Kim |first=YeEun |date=Nov 17, 2020 |title=JW Anderson's Harry Styles Cardigan Gets Immortalized at V&A Museum |url=https://hypebae.com/2020/11/harry-styles-jw-anderson-knit-cardigan-viral-tiktok-diy-victoria-albert-va-museum-display-london |access-date=2023-04-11 |website=Hypebae}} Later that year, it was acquired by the Victoria and Albert Museum as an item of cultural importance related to the COVID-19 pandemic.{{Cite web |last=Holland |first=Oscar |date=November 23, 2020 |title=The V&A museum has acquired the Harry Styles cardigan that sparked a TikTok craze |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/harry-styles-cardigan-va-museum/index.html |access-date=2023-04-11 |website=CNN |language=en}}
Awards and honors
In 2015, JW Anderson under Jonathan Anderson became the first brand to win both Menswear Designer of The Year and Womenswear Designer of the Year awards at The Fashion Awards.{{cite web|last1=Fury|first1=Alex|title=British Fashion Awards 2015: JW Anderson wins menswear and womenswear designer of the year|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/british-fashion-awards-2015-jw-anderson-wins-menswear-and-womenswear-designer-of-the-year-a6746481.html|work=The Independent|date=November 15, 2015}}
| class="wikitable"
!Award !Year !Recipient(s) !Category !Ref. |
| rowspan="6" |The Fashion Awards
|2012 |JW Anderson |Emerging Talent Award - Ready-To-Wear |
| 2013
|JW Anderson |New Establishment Designer of The Year |
| 2014
|JW Anderson |Menswear Designer of The Year |
| rowspan="2" |2015
|JW Anderson |Menswear Designer of The Year |
| JW Anderson
|Womenswear Designer of The Year |
| 2017
|Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson |British Designer of The Year - Womenswear |
Collaborations
References
{{reflist}}
External links
- {{Official website|j-w-anderson.com}}
{{LVMH}}
{{authority control}}
Category:2008 establishments in England