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Jain Kim

{{Short description|South Korean rock climber (born 1988)}}

{{Infobox climber

| image = Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Woman finalists 01-Jain Kim.jpg

| image_size = 180px

| caption = Kim in 2018

| name = Jain Kim

| birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=y|1988|09|11}}

| birth_place = Goyang, South Korea

| death_date =

| education =

| occupation =

| spouse = Oh Young-hwan

| height = 153 cm

| weight = 42 kg

| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|

}}

| highestgrade =

| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|8C/8C+}}

| highestonsight =

| knownfor = Winning 3 World Cups, 1 World Championship and 14 Asian Championships.

| firstascents =

| namedroutes =

| website = {{URL|http://jainkim.kr}}

| updated = May 4, 2019

|medaltemplates =

{{MedalSport | Women's competition climbing }}

{{MedalCountry | {{KOR}} }}

{{MedalCount

| World Cups | 31 | 14 | 17

| World Championships | 2 | 3 | 1

| Asian Championships | 14 | 3 | 3

}}

{{Medal|Competition|World Championships}}

{{MedalGold|2012 Paris|Combined}}

{{MedalGold|2014 Gijón|Lead}}

{{MedalSilver|2009 Xining|Lead}}

{{MedalSilver|2011 Arco|Lead}}

{{MedalSilver|2012 Paris|Lead}}

{{MedalBronze |2018 Innsbruck|Lead}}

{{Medal|Competition|World Cup}}

{{Medal|Second|2009|Lead}}

{{Medal|Winner|2010|Lead}}

{{Medal|Winner|2010|Combined}}

{{Medal|Second|2011|Lead}}

{{Medal|Second|2012|Lead}}

{{Medal|Winner|2013|Lead}}

{{Medal|Winner|2014|Lead}}

{{Medal|Second|2015|Lead}}

{{Medal|Winner|2015|Combined}}

{{Medal|Third |2016|Lead}}

{{Medal|Second|2017|Lead}}

{{Medal|Second|2017|Combined}}

{{Medal|Third |2018|Lead}}

{{Medal|Competition|World Games}}

{{Medal|Silver|2009|Lead}}

{{Medal|Silver|2013|Lead}}

| show-medals = yes

}}

{{Family name hatnote|Kim||lang=Korean}}

Kim Ja-in ({{Korean|hangul=김자인}}, born 11 September 1988), more widely known in the Western world as Jain Kim, is a professional climber who specializes in competition climbing. She is mainly active in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. She has won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2013, 2014), the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once (2010, Lead discipline). She has won the Asian Championships 14 times in 15 years, 11 times in lead climbing and 3 times in bouldering (see below for details).

Jain Kim has also completed notable ascents outdoors. In 2014, she redpointed her first routes graded beyond the {{climbing grade|8b+}} grade, including Bibita Biologica {{climbing grade|8c}} and Reini's Vibes {{climbing grade|8c+}}, both in Arco, Italy.

Biography

Born into a family of mountaineers and climbers,{{cite web|url=http://www.worldclimbing2012.com/en/world-champions-women/kim-jain|title=Jain Kim's Profile|author=Auriana Beaute|access-date=5 December 2014|archive-date=17 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200217002110/http://www.worldclimbing2012.com/en/world-champions-women/kim-jain|url-status=dead}} Kim started climbing at age 12. In July 2004, at age 15, she started competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and since 2006, she has also participated in the Bouldering World Cup.{{citation needed|date=March 2024}}

She won the Lead Climbing Asian Championship in 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, and 2010. In 2008, she also won the Bouldering Asian Championship. In 2009, she ranked second in the Lead Climbing World Cup,{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=37089 |title=Lead World Cup 2009 to Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra |editor=planetmountain.com |date=16 November 2009 |access-date=4 December 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141207105053/http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=37089 |archive-date= 7 December 2014 }} second in the Lead Climbing World Championship,{{cite web

|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=36846|title=Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN)|editor=planetmountain.com|author=Vinicio Stefanello|date=7 July 2009|access-date=4 December 2014}} second in the World Games (Lead), and third in the Rock Master (Lead).{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=36942|title=Eiter and Puigblanque are the kings of Rock Master 2009|editor=planetmountain.com|author=Vinicio Stefanello|date=6 September 2009|access-date=4 December 2014}}File:Boulder Worldcup Vienna 28-05-2010 quali-w040 Jain Kim.jpg

In 2010, she won the lead climbing competitions both in the Rock Master{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=37503|title=Rock Master 2010|editor=planetmountain.com|date=19 July 2010|access-date=4 December 2014}} and the World Cup.{{cite web|url=http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/gare-ed-eventi/jain-kim-vince-la-world-cup-2010 |title=Jain Kim Wins the World Cup 2010 |editor=up-climbing.com |date=30 October 2010 |access-date=4 December 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141211131531/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/gare-ed-eventi/jain-kim-vince-la-world-cup-2010 |archive-date=11 December 2014 }} She obtained the World Cup overall title by ranking first in five of the six stages, namely those held in Xining, Chuncheon, Puurs, Huaiji, and Kranj. The only World Cup stage that Jain Kim did not win in 2010 was the first one, held in Chamonix. She won the Lead Climbing World Cup again in 2013 and 2014, each time winning four of the eight events.

In May and June 2014, she redpointed her first routes in rock climbing graded 8b+, namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini's Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.

On September 14, 2014, three days after she had turned 26, she achieved an extraordinary victory at the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she managed to ascend (on-sight) all of the routes attempted in the qualifications, the semifinals, and the finals.

On May 20, 2017, she climbed the 555-meter Lotte World Tower in Seoul.{{cite news|url=http://english.yonhapnews.co.kr/business/2017/05/20/0501000000AEN20170520003300320.html|title=S. Korean female climber reaches top of tallest building|publisher=yonhapnews.co.kr|date=20 May 2017|access-date=20 May 2017}}

Upon winning the gold Lead World Cup in Chamonix on July 9, 2023, Kim became the oldest woman to win a Lead World Cup at 34 years old.{{Cite web |last=gripped |date=2023-07-10 |title=Jain Kim Becomes Oldest Woman to Win Gold |url=https://gripped.com/news/jain-kim-becomes-oldest-woman-to-win-gold/ |access-date=2023-07-16 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}

Personal life

She is married to Oh Young-hwan, a member of the 21st National Assembly of Korea, who was a firefighter of Seoul Fire Services and writer.wedding invitation sent from Oh Younghwan(GLAD Hotel, 15:00, 12 December 2015). Retrieved 15 November 2015. On March 10, 2021, Kim gave birth to a daughter.{{Cite web|title=Jain Kim gave birth to a daughter|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/CMPMjUdBXlE/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/allezjain/2526293119679691076_2526293074179975003 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration|url-status=live}}{{cbignore}}

Rankings

{{See also|Best IFSC results}}

= Climbing World Cup =

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2004

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2005

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2006

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2007

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2008

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2009

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2010

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2011

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2012

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2013

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2014

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2015

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2016

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2017

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2018

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2019

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2023

align="left" | Lead

| 25

| 18

| 28

| 14

| 18

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

| 8

|

align="left" | Bouldering

| –

| –

| 36

| –

| 51

| 5

| 12

| 7

| 10

| 29

| –

| –

| –

| 18

| 48

| 35

| 51

align="left" | Speed

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| –

| 30

| –

| –

| 75

| –

| –

align="left" | Combined

| –

| –

| 21

| –

| 25

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| 4

| –

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| –

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| 8

|8

= Climbing World Championships =

Youth

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2005
Youth A

align="left" | Lead

| 22

Adult

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2005

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2007

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2009

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2011

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2012

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2014

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2016

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2018

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2019

align="left" | Lead

| 32

| 8

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| 4

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

|22

align="left" | Bouldering

| 12

| 45

| 17

| 11

| 5

| –

| –

| 41

|25

align="left" | Speed

| –

| –

| –

| –

| 41

| –

| –

| 54

|59

align="left" | Combined

| –

| –

| –

| –

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| –

| –

| –

|40

= World Games =

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2005

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2009

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2013

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2017

align="left" | Lead

| 5

style="background:silver;"|2style="background:silver;"|24

= Rock Master =

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2009

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2010

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2011

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2012

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2013

align="left" | Lead

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| –

| –

| style="background: silver;" | 2

align="left" | Duel

| –

| –

| 5

| –

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

= <span id="Asian Champs">Asian Championships</span> =

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2004

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2005

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2006

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2007

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2008

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2009

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2010

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2012

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2013

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2014

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2015

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2016

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2017

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2018

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2022

align="left" | Lead

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| –

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

| –

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

align="left" | Bouldering

| –

| –

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: silver;" | 2

| style="background: gold;" | 1

| –

| –

| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3

| –

| –

| –

| –

World Cup podiums

= Lead =

Last updated July 9, 2023.

class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
width = "55" | Season

! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold

! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver

! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze

! width = "55" | Total

200711
20080
2009123
201055
20115117
20123216
20134217
2014426
201533
2016145
20171326
2018224
2019112
202311
Total30131356

= Bouldering =

class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
width = "55" | Season

! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold

! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver

! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze

! width = "55" | Total

200911
201022
2011112
201211
Total1146

Television

class="wikitable plainrowheaders" style="text-align:center"

! scope="col" |Year

! scope="col" |Program

!Original title

! scope="col" |Network

! scope="col" |Role

!Note

!{{Abbr|Ref.|Reference}}

2015

|Running Man

|런닝맨

|SBS

|Guest

|Episode 268

|{{Cite web|last=Kim|first=Jennifer|date=2015-10-17|title='Running Man' Kim Ja In Picks Haha|url=https://www.kdramastars.com/articles/101045/20151017/running-man-kim-ja-in-picks-haha.htm|access-date=2021-10-08|website=KDramaStars|language=en}}

2021

|Sporty Sisters 2

|노는언니2

|E Channel

|Member

|

|{{Cite web|title=노는언니2|url=http://www.imtcast.com/cms/index.jsp?spgmdomain=sportysisters2|access-date=2021-10-08|website=www.imtcast.com}}

See also

References

{{Reflist|refs=

{{cite web|url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/ranking|title=World Cup Rankings|editor=IFSC|editor-link=International Federation of Sport Climbing|date=August 20, 2019|access-date=August 20, 2019}}

{{cite web|url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=athlete&id=5983|title=Kim's profile and rankings|editor=IFSC|editor-link=International Federation of Sport Climbing|date=August 20, 2019|access-date=August 20, 2019}}

}}

External links

{{Commons category|Kim Jain}}

  • {{World Games profile|2696|Jain Kim}}
  • {{IFSC profile|2035|Jain Kim|old_id=5983|archive=20190507214447}}

{{Climber links

| 8a = 20645

| climbing =

}}

  • {{Facebook|climbjain|Jain Kim}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Kim, Ja-in}}

Category:1988 births

Category:Living people

Category:South Korean female climbers

Category:South Korean rock climbers

Category:Korea University alumni

Category:World Games silver medalists for South Korea

Category:World Games medalists in sport climbing

Category:Competitors at the 2005 World Games

Category:Asian Games medalists in sport climbing

Category:Sport climbers at the 2018 Asian Games

Category:Asian Games bronze medalists for South Korea

Category:Medalists at the 2018 Asian Games

Category:Sportspeople from Goyang

Category:IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists

Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists

Category:South Korean competition climbers

Category:Medalists at the 2009 World Games

Category:Medalists at the 2013 World Games

Category:21st-century South Korean sportswomen