Jam tart
{{Short description|English tart variety}}
File:Jam tarts (5110926065).jpg
A jam tart is small and open English tart variety.{{Cite news |last=Letters |date=2017-03-08 |title=Jam tarts are not an unimaginable luxury in the north |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/society/2017/mar/08/jam-tarts-are-not-an-unimaginable-luxury-in-the-north |access-date=2023-07-12 |issn=0261-3077}}{{Cite journal |date=2005 |title=Toast: The Story of a Boy's Hunger |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2005.5.3.138.1 |journal=Gastronomica |volume=5 |issue=3 |pages=138–138 |doi=10.1525/gfc.2005.5.3.138.1 |issn=1529-3262}}
Etymology
The term "jam tart" came into common use around the 1840s, but the dish itself predates the term.{{Cite web |title=JoyofBaking.com - Baking & Dessert: "Jam Tart" |url=https://www.joyofbaking.com/ |access-date=2023-07-12 |website=www.joyofbaking.com}} They comprise small shortcrust pastry bases, filled with a fruit jam, such as strawberry, raspberry, apricot or lemon curd which are then baked.{{Cite web|url=https://www.greatbritishchefs.com/recipes/heart-jam-tart-recipe|title=Queen of Hearts jam tarts recipe - Great British Chefs|website=www.greatbritishchefs.com}} The earliest recorded use of the phrase "jam tart" is from {{circa}} 1840.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=NoicAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA185&dq=%22jam+tart%22+%22rhyming+slang%22&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUkYD2896LAxXGYEEAHbyVNQgQ6AF6BAgEEAM#v=onepage&q=%22jam+tart%22+%22rhyming+slang%22&f=false|title=The Diner's Dictionary: Word Origins of Food and Drink|first=John|last=Ayto|date=October 18, 2012|publisher=OUP Oxford|via=Google Books}}
History
Jam tarts are considered a "quintessential" British food, although possibly they are known to have been consumed in eighth-century Xinjiang, China, and used as a burial offering to the gods.{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2009/jan/26/5|title=News in brief|date=January 26, 2009|via=The Guardian}} They were unknown to most people in Medieval Europe, however, until the Atlantic sugar trade of the century. This was because until sugar became widely available for common use, the usual medieval sweetener was honey, but, unlike sugar, honey was a limited preservative.{{Cite web|url=https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/health-and-nutrition-you-asked/does-honey-have-any-value-preservative|title=Does honey have any value as a preservative?|website=Office for Science and Society}}{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=F1MrEAAAQBAJ&pg=PA73&dq=no+sugar+middle+ages&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiFi-fC8t6LAxXkTUEAHbWBD94Q6AF6BAgKEAM#v=onepage&q=no+sugar+middle+ages&f=false|title=Agriculture in the Middle Ages: Technology, Practice, and Representation|first=Del|last=Sweeney|date=November 11, 2016|publisher=University of Pennsylvania Press|via=Google Books}} The ruling classes could afford the little sugar that could be imported form the Middle East, and it was used to make what were known as "tartstuff", a rich butter paste patty filled with a fruit filling such as strawberry, mixed with were stewed with sugar, red
wine, cinnamon, ginger or rose-water.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=t2V5PQAACAAJ&dq=Traditional+Puddings&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&redir_esc=y&PA=100|title=Traditional Puddings|first=Sara Paston|last=Williams|date=March 25, 1999|publisher=National Trust, Aylesbury|via=Google Books}}{{refn|Not only strawberry, however; the Tudors particularly utilised a broad range of fillings, including fruits such as prunes, medlars, quinces and rosehip, but also flower petals like cowslip, violets, borage flowers, primroses, rose petals or those from marigolds.|group=note}} The Romans made pastry, but not jam.Solomon, Jon. '"Tracta": A Versatile Roman Pastry', Hermes, vol. 106, no. 4, 1978, pp. 539–56. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/4476082. Accessed 25 Feb. 2025.
File:Jam tarts (3687942537).jpg and Apricot jam tarts]]
By the Victorian period jam tarts had become a staple of the domestic menu. Recipes from cooks such as Hannah Glasse popularised baking with jam,{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=JPgkEAAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=jam,+Jelly+and+Marmalade&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=jam,+Jelly+and+Marmalade&f=false&PA=40|title=Jam, Jelly and Marmalade: A Global History|first=Sarah B.|last=Hood|date=June 17, 2021|publisher=Reaktion Books|via=Google Books}} as until then sugar was most commonly known as "a medicine, a spice, or a plaything of the powerful".{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=k0xUDgAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=sidney+minz&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjr0LCJh9-LAxULS0EAHY22AZoQ6AF6BAgNEAM#v=onepage&q=plaything&f=false&PA=118|title=Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History|first=Sidney W.|last=Mintz|date=August 5, 1986|publisher=Penguin|via=Google Books}} were known as Epiphany tarts, as they were traditionally baked for 6 January, to celebrate the arrival of the Three Kings in Bethlehem, and were considered a delicacy.{{Cite web|url=https://www.almanac.com/recipe/epiphany-tart-victorian-jam-tart|title=Epiphany Tart (Victorian Jam Tart) | Almanac.com|date=December 23, 2024|website=www.almanac.com}} They have been described by a modern food critic as "the very pinnacle of understated boasting in the jam tart world". Larger than 20th century tarts, it was divided into 13 equal slices, representing Jesus and his disciples, with each section filled with a different variety of jam.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=MX8PAAAAQBAJ&pg=PT180&dq=Epiphany+Tart&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjW_ITS3d6LAxXKbEEAHZCLEzoQ6AF6BAgLEAM#v=onepage&q=Epiphany+Tart&f=false|title=Great British Bakes: Forgotten treasures for modern bakers|first=Mary-Anne|last=Boermans|date=November 7, 2013|publisher=Random House|via=Google Books}} Trying to use as many different flavours as possible added a competitive element.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=dBkwDAAAQBAJ&pg=PA17&dq=Epiphany+Tart&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjW_ITS3d6LAxXKbEEAHZCLEzoQ6AF6BAgJEAM#v=onepage&q=Epiphany+Tart&f=false|title=The Turning Of The Year|first=Lynne|last=Tann-Watson|date=May 18, 2016|publisher=Lulu.com|via=Google Books}} The tart also indicated socio-economic status, both by reflecting the depth of faith in the household and that luxuries were affordable; Mrs Beeton wrote that, even in 1861, jam was a luxury due to its expense, particularly when recipes required "considerable quantities", such as jam tarts.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=RL6LAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA1597&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=jam+tart&f=false|title=The Oxford Companion to Food|first=Alan|last=Davidson|date=February 25, 2014|publisher=Oxford University Press|via=Google Books}} They also could be made throughout the year, often with the addition of mincemeat.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=t8iArgK-4pIC&printsec=frontcover&dq=a+year+of+victorian+puddings&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=a+year+of+victorian+puddings&f=false&pg=PA149|title=A Year of Victorian Puddings: Traditional Tarts, Pies and Puddings for Every Day of the Year|first=Georgiana|last=Hill|date=December 13, 2012|publisher=Pan Macmillan|via=Google Books}}
It is probable that it was an erroneously made jam tart that led to the accidental creation of the Bakewell pudding, in Bakewell, Derbyshire. Supposedly one Mrs Greaves left instructions for her inexperienced cook to make a jam tart, but, instead of mixing eggs and almond paste for pastry, she spread it on top of the jam where it formed a crust on baking.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=RL6LAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA54&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false|title=The Oxford Companion to Food|first=Alan|last=Davidson|date=February 25, 2014|publisher=Oxford University Press|via=Google Books}}{{refn|Hover, the Bakewell pudding—often called a tart—has roots in medieval cuisine, where it was a custard cream baked over candied fruit and known as a flanthon.|group=note}}
Cultural resonance
Jam tarts have entered British culture. In an episode of the television series Midsomer Murders, 'Secrets and Spies', one of the characters refers to Mr Kipling as being not "just a jam tart"; this was an allusion to both the confectionary company who produced the cakes and Rudyard Kipling, who wrote spy novels.{{Cite web|url=https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/showbiz-news/the-umpire-strikes-back-925635|title=The umpire strikes back|first=men|last=Administrator|date=January 12, 2013|website=Manchester Evening News}} In the sitcom Please Sir! (1968–1972) episode, Peter Cleall's character Eric Duffy defended a subnormal fellow pupil played by Peter Denyer—Dennis Dunstable—fellow actor David Barry wrote, Cleall was in possession of a jam tart. According to Barry, Cleall "carried the jam tart over to Richard Everett's character, and said threateningly, 'Did you say something, you pasty-faced pillock?'" before smashing the tart into Everett's face; "Jam trickled all over the shocked actor's face, down his neck and over his school uniform."{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=H6saEAAAQBAJ&pg=PA1952&dq=%22jam+tart%22+history&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjLtteG2N6LAxVwQUEAHadSGa4Q6AF6BAgMEAM#v=onepage&q=%22jam+tart%22+history&f=false|title=Please Sir! The Official History|first=David|last=Barry|date=November 24, 2020|publisher=Andrews UK Limited|via=Google Books}}
File:John Tenniel - Illustration from The Nursery Alice (1890) - c06544 02.jpg
The pastry is also an essential component of the English nursery rhyme, The Queen of Hearts, in which the eponymous Queen bakes some jam tarts. The King of Hearts wants to dine, only for it to be discovered that the tarts have been stolen. Investigation reveals the Knave of Hearts as the culprit; the King proceeds to "beat the knave full sore". As a result of his beating, the knave promises to desist from his life of crime in future.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=7Dk9bQv6JGsC&pg=PA15&dq=he+Making+of+the+Alice+books&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjC34D55d6LAxXdU0EAHUNTC6gQ6AF6BAgKEAM#v=onepage&q=he+Making+of+the+Alice+books&f=false|title=The Making of the Alice Books: Lewis Carroll's Uses of Earlier Children's Literature|first=Ronald|last=Reichertz|date=February 25, 2000|publisher=McGill-Queen's Press - MQUP|via=Google Books}} Lewis Carroll uses the rhyme as plot device in Alice's Adventures in Wonderland to parody the British justice system, using the King of Hearts, the Queen of Hearts and the Knave of Hearts as characters.{{cite web |last1=Dr Oliver Tearle (Loughborough University) |title=A Summary And Analysis Of Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures In Wonderland - Interesting Literature |date=20 April 2021 |url=https://interestingliterature.com/2021/04/lewis-carroll-alices-adventures-in-wonderland-summary-analysis/}} {{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=tLeg9Cx69Z4C&q=%22The+queen+of+hearts%22+lewis+carroll+tarts&pg=PA127&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=%22The+queen+of+hearts%22+lewis+carroll+tarts&f=false|title=Semiotics and Linguistics in Alice's Worlds|first1=Rachel|last1=Fordyce|first2=Carla|last2=Marello|date=February 25, 1994|publisher=Walter de Gruyter|via=Google Books}}
In 2015, the Welsh town of Llandudno—where Alice Liddell, Carroll's inspiration for Alice——launched an attempt to enter the Guinness Book of Records for the longest line—1500,{{Cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-west-wales-32536475|title=Llandudno marking Lewis Carroll link with jam tart record attempt|date=May 1, 2015|via=www.bbc.co.uk}} 2000,{{Cite web|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/foodanddrinknews/11576208/Town-attempts-jam-tart-record-in-honour-of-Alice-in-Wonderland.html|title=Town attempts jam tart record in honour of Alice in Wonderland|date=May 1, 2015|website=The Telegraph}} or 2045{{Cite web|url=https://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/watch-llandudno-grabs-jam-tarts-9166628|title=WATCH: Llandudno grabs jam tarts world record crown|first=Jez|last=Hemming|date=May 1, 2015|website=North Wales Live}}—of jam tarts, which must also then be consumed. This followed a previous attempt by the town three years previously, when participants made and ate 1716 tarts.
W. H. Auden wrote a poem in 1938 titled "I'm a Jam Tart", as a satire on the cabaret songs of Cole Porter.{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/music/2004/apr/17/classicalmusicandopera.classics|title=Musical truth|first=Valentine|last=Cunningham|date=April 17, 2004|via=The Guardian}} Jam tart has been Cockney rhyming slang for heart since the 19th century, and also referred to a man's "best girl". Its use expanded to include (usually young) women generally, and thus the term of endearment "sweetheart".{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ojtGAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA36&dq=%22jam+tart%22+%22rhyming+slang%22&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUkYD2896LAxXGYEEAHbyVNQgQ6AF6BAgHEAM#v=onepage&q=%22jam+tart%22&f=false|title=A Dictionary of Rhyming Slang|first=Julian|last=Franklyn|date=October 8, 2013|publisher=Routledge|via=Google Books}} For example, Barry Humphries stated, in his 1971 book Bazz Pulls it Off! that "whenever I see a decent jam tart with a good set of top bollocks I'm in like Flynn. No probs!",{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=bbcBCgAAQBAJ&pg=PA1251&dq=%22jam+tart%22+%22rhyming+slang%22&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUkYD2896LAxXGYEEAHbyVNQgQ6AF6BAgJEAM#v=onepage&q=%22jam+tart%22+%22rhyming+slang%22&f=false|title=The New Partridge Dictionary of Slang and Unconventional English|first1=Tom|last1=Dalzell|first2=Terry|last2=Victor|date=June 26, 2015|publisher=Routledge|via=Google Books}}{{refn|Julian Franklyn has noted that "it is one of the few examples rhyming slang terms to be reduced to its second element instead of its first".|group=note}} and in Australian English, for example, "The Pope's a Jew if that jam tart doesn't root like a rattlesnake" as reported in Private Eye in 1969. Another of jam tart's original slang meanings was "mart", as in a market place; this was often applied to the London Stock Exchange. This further led to the combination of the two to mean a girl of loose morals, or even a prostitute. Due to its association with "heart", and the fact that they play in a maroon strip, jam tart also became the nickname for the Scottish football team, Heart of Midlothian.{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=02E3AwAAQBAJ&pg=PA20&dq=football+team+jam+tarts&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiun_LeiN-LAxWdXEEAHYn-GfMQ6AF6BAgFEAM#v=onepage&q=football+team+jam+tarts&f=false|title=Scottish Football|via=books.google.co.uk}}{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=xZYZDgAAQBAJ&pg=PA79&dq=football+team+jam+tarts&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiun_LeiN-LAxWdXEEAHYn-GfMQ6AF6BAgJEAM#v=onepage&q=football+team+jam+tarts&f=false|title=Dictionary of Sports and Games Terminology|via=books.google.co.uk}}
See also
Notes
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