Kenzō Takada

{{short description|Japanese-French fashion designer (1939-2020)}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2020}}

{{Infobox person

| name = Kenzō Takada

| image = Kenzo Takada cropped 1 Kenzo Takada 20170310.jpg

| image_size =

| caption = Takada in 2017

| native_name = 高田 賢三

| native_name_lang = ja

| birth_date = {{Birth date|1939|02|27|df=yes}}

| birth_place = Himeji, Hyōgo, Japan

| alma_mater = Bunka Fashion College

| death_date = {{Death date and age|2020|10|04|1939|02|27|df=yes}}

| death_place = Neuilly-sur-Seine, Île-de-France, France

| nationality = Japanese
French

| occupation = Fashion designer, film director

| known_for = Founder of Kenzo

| partner = Xavier de Castella

| relatives =

| awards = Ordre des Arts et des Lettres

}}

{{nihongo|Kenzō Takada|高田 賢三|Takada Kenzō|{{IPAc-ja|ta|ka|da|-|ke|n|'|zō}}; 27 February 1939 – 4 October 2020}} was a Japanese–French fashion designer living in France. He founded Kenzo, a worldwide clothing brand, that also markets skin care and perfumes, Takada was the honorary president of the Asian Couture Federation.

Early life

Takada was born on 27 February 1939 in Himeji, Hyōgo Prefecture. He was one of seven children of Kenji and Shizu Takada,{{Cite news|last=Friedman|first=Vanessa|date=2020-10-04|title=Kenzo Takada, Who Brought Japanese Fashion to the World, Dies at 81|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/04/style/kenzo-takada-dead.html|access-date=2020-10-06|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=5 October 2020|archive-url=https://archive.today/20201005075204/https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/04/style/kenzo-takada-dead.html|url-status=live}}{{Cite news|date=2020-10-06|title=Kenzo Takada obituary|language=en|newspaper=The Irish Times|url=https://www.thetimes.com/uk/article/kenzo-takada-obituary-f78np7sqr|access-date=2020-10-06|issn=0140-0460|archive-date=6 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201006080017/https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/kenzo-takada-obituary-f78np7sqr|url-status=live}} who ran a hotel.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html|title=Fashion|last=Dorsey|first=Hebe|date=14 November 1976|work=The New York Times|access-date=12 June 2019|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=19 February 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180219031145/http://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html|url-status=live}} His love for fashion developed at an early age, particularly through reading his sisters' magazines. In 1957,{{Cite AV media|url=https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/ondemand/video/5001322/|title=Takada Kenzo: Poet of Cotton|date=23 January 2021|last=|first=|type=Television production|language=English|publisher=NHK World Japan|orig-year=2021|access-date=4 February 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210204194803/https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/ondemand/video/5001322/|archive-date=4 February 2021}} he briefly attended Kobe City University of Foreign Studies. However, after his father died during Takada's first year at university,{{Cite web|url=https://archive.macleans.ca/article/1977/8/8/all-the-rage-in-paris|title=All the rage in Paris|last=McDonald|first=Marci|date=8 August 1977|website=Maclean's|language=en-US|access-date=12 June 2019|archive-date=30 September 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200930200932/https://archive.macleans.ca/article/1977/8/8/all-the-rage-in-paris|url-status=dead}} he withdrew from the program against his family's wishes. In 1958, he enrolled at Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College, which had then just opened its doors to male students.{{cite web|url=http://www.straitstimes.com/the-big-story/lifestyle-interviews/story/kenzo-takada-junko-koshino-japanese-design-legends-and-friends-2013|title=Quintessentially Asian: Fashion designers Kenzo Takada, Junko Koshino|last1=Lim|first1=Leslie Kay|date=24 February 2014|publisher=The Straits Times|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150217143324/http://www.straitstimes.com/the-big-story/lifestyle-interviews/story/kenzo-takada-junko-koshino-japanese-design-legends-and-friends-2013|archive-date=17 February 2015|access-date=12 June 2019}} During his time at Bunka, Takada won a fashion design competition, the Soen Award, in 1961.{{Cite book|title=The Japanese revolution in Paris fashion|last=Kawamura|first=Yuniya|date=2004|publisher=Berg|isbn=9781417598021|location=Oxford [England]|oclc=60562175}}{{Rp|122}} At this time, Takada gained experience working in the Sanai department store,{{cite book|last=Dirix|first=Emmanuelle|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7EPOCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA170|title=Dressing the Decades: Twentieth-century Vintage Style|publisher=Yale University Press|year=2016|isbn=978-0-300-21552-6|pages=170–|access-date=10 March 2020|archive-date=5 March 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305213111/https://books.google.com/books?id=7EPOCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA170#v=onepage&q&f=false|url-status=live}} where he designed up to 40 outfits a month as a girl's clothing designer.{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/kenzo-takada|title=Kenzo Takada|last=Sowray|first=Bibby|date=12 March 2012|website=British Vogue|language=en-GB|access-date=10 March 2020|archive-date=22 September 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220922154013/https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/kenzo-takada|url-status=live}}

Takada was inspired by Paris, especially designer Yves Saint Laurent.{{Cite web|url=https://www.marieclaire.fr/interview-kenzo,1295676.asp|title=La jeunesse éternelle de Kenzo Takada|last=Gaignault|first=Fabrice|date=28 February 2019|website=Marie Claire|language=fr|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=4 September 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190904223814/https://www.marieclaire.fr/interview-kenzo,1295676.asp|url-status=live}} His interest in Paris was further fostered by his teacher at Bunka, Chie Koike, who was educated at L'École de la chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne.{{Rp|113}}{{Cite book|title=The great fashion designers|url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola|url-access=registration|last=Polan|first=Brenda|date=2009|publisher=Berg Publishers|others=Tredre, Roger.|isbn=9780857851741|edition=English|location=Oxford|oclc=721907453}}{{Rp|142}} In preparation for the 1964 Summer Olympics, the government demolished Takada's apartment in 1964, providing him with some monetary compensation.{{Cite web|url=https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/article/3001444/fashion-legend-kenzo-takada-looks-back-his-remarkable|title=Fashion legend Kenzo Takada's amazing life revealed in new book|last=La Torre|first=Vincenzo|date=14 March 2019|website=South China Morning Post|language=en|access-date=12 June 2019|archive-date=21 June 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190621222728/https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/article/3001444/fashion-legend-kenzo-takada-looks-back-his-remarkable|url-status=live}} Under the advice of his mentor, and using his compensation money, Takada went on a month-long trip by boat to Paris, stopping en route at various cities like Hong Kong, Saigon, Mumbai, and Marseille.{{Cite web|url=https://www.ft.com/content/a5eea252-140e-11e9-a168-d45595ad076d|archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20221211231251/https://www.ft.com/content/a5eea252-140e-11e9-a168-d45595ad076d|archive-date=11 December 2022|url-access=subscription|url-status=live|title=Kenzo Takada — the journey from 'Jungle Jap' to Kenzo|last=Cook|first=Grace|date=31 January 2019|website=Financial Times|language=en-GB|access-date=12 June 2019}} He ultimately arrived at the Gare de Lyon train station on 1 January 1965. Takada's first impression of Paris was that it was "dismal and bleak", but began to warm to the city when his taxi took him past the Notre Dame de Paris, which he described as "magnificent".{{Cite web|url=https://www.straitstimes.com/lifestyle/fashion/book-on-kenzo-traces-how-he-dressed-up-paris-with-colour-flowing-lines|title=Book on Kenzo traces how he 'dressed up' Paris with colour, flowing lines|date=16 November 2018|website=The Straits Times|language=en|access-date=12 June 2019|archive-date=21 November 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181121034027/https://www.straitstimes.com/lifestyle/fashion/book-on-kenzo-traces-how-he-dressed-up-paris-with-colour-flowing-lines|url-status=live}}

Fashion career

File:Kenzo.jpg

Takada was a fashion maverick, known for his colorful and free-spirited collections that energized the ready-to-wear runways of the French capital starting in the 1970s.{{Cite web |last=Carter |first=Lee |date=2023-04-17 |title=With Its Serene Japanese Garden in the Middle of Paris, the Famed Home of Fashion Designer Kenzō Takada Has Come to Market |url=https://news.artnet.com/art-world/kenzo-house-paris-for-sale-2283502 |access-date=2023-04-19 |website=Artnet News |language=en-US |archive-date=19 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230419213730/https://news.artnet.com/art-world/kenzo-house-paris-for-sale-2283502 |url-status=live }} Initially, Takada struggled in Paris, selling sketches of designs to fashion houses for {{Currency|25|FRF}} each. He had intended to leave Paris for Japan after a few months, but vowed not to do so until he had created something there, as he was determined to open a boutique fashion house in an area where his peers had not opened one.{{Cite web|url=https://smoda.elpais.com/moda/kenzo-lamento-haber-vendido-mi-marca-fue-un-largo-luto-que-ahora-llevo-mejor/|title=Kenzo: "Lamento haber vendido mi marca. Fue un largo luto que ahora llevo mejor" {{!}} Moda|last=Vicente|first=Álex|date=28 October 2018|website=S Moda EL PAÍS|language=es-ES|access-date=12 June 2019|archive-date=3 June 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190603124150/https://smoda.elpais.com/moda/kenzo-lamento-haber-vendido-mi-marca-fue-un-largo-luto-que-ahora-llevo-mejor/|url-status=live}} During this time, Takada worked as a stylist at a textile manufacturer named Pisanti.{{Rp|142}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.universalis.fr/encyclopedie/kenzo/|title=KENZO|website=Encyclopædia Universalis|language=fr-FR|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=26 July 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190726023910/https://www.universalis.fr/encyclopedie/kenzo/|url-status=live}}

In 1970, while at a flea market, Takada met a woman who wanted to rent out a small space in the Galerie Vivienne to him cheaply. Takada accepted the offer, and opened up shop as a designer. With very little money to work with, he mixed and matched $200 in fabrics from the Saint Pierre market in Montmartre, creating an eclectic and bold first fashion collection. Takada presented the collection at his first fashion show at the Galerie Vivienne.{{Cite web|first=Martin|last=Goillandeau|title=Designer Kenzo Takada, founder of Kenzo, dies of Covid-19 aged 81|url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/kenzo-death-covid-intl-scli/index.html|access-date=4 October 2020|website=CNN|date=4 October 2020|language=en|archive-date=4 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201004172619/https://www.cnn.com/style/article/kenzo-death-covid-intl-scli/index.html|url-status=live}} With no money to afford professional fashion models for the event, Takada and his friends opted to paint the pimples of an acne-covered model green.

Inspired by painter Henri Rousseau, and in particular The Dream, Takada painted the interior of his shop with a jungle-like floral aesthetic. Wanting to combine the jungle aesthetic with his homeland, the designer decided to name his first store "Jungle Jap". The store's name did not go without controversy: in 1971, the Japanese American Citizens League issued a summons to Takada while on his first visit to the United States, challenging him to remove the word "Jap" from his business's name.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1972/07/12/archives/designer-does-what-he-likes-and-its-liked.html|title=Designer Does What He Likes—And It's Liked|last=Morris|first=Bernadine|date=12 July 1972|work=The New York Times|access-date=12 June 2019|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185520/https://www.nytimes.com/1972/07/12/archives/designer-does-what-he-likes-and-its-liked.html|url-status=live}} However, the State supreme court upheld the ability to use the term as part of a trademark the following year.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1971/06/29/archives/court-here-upholds-jap-as-trademark.html|title=Court Here Upholds 'Jap' as Trademark|date=29 June 1971|work=The New York Times|access-date=12 June 2019|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=3 June 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190603183921/https://www.nytimes.com/1971/06/29/archives/court-here-upholds-jap-as-trademark.html|url-status=live}} Takada and his team opted to rename the brand once Takada returned to France.{{Cite web|url=https://schonmagazine.com/interview-kenzo-takada/|title=interview {{!}} kenzo takada|last=Breeze|first=Amanda|date=8 February 2019|website=Schön! Magazine|language=en-GB|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185522/https://schonmagazine.com/interview-kenzo-takada/|url-status=live}}

Takada's efforts paid off quickly – in June 1970, Elle featured one of his designs on its cover.{{Rp|117}} He moved locations from the Galerie Vivienne to the Passage Choiseul in 1970. Takada's collection was presented in New York City and Tokyo in 1971. The next year, he won the Fashion Editor Club of Japan's prize.{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kenzo-takada-receives-lifetime-achievement-award-japan-fecj-10855521/|title=Kenzo Takada Receives Lifetime Achievement Award|last=Wetherille|first=Kelly|date=31 March 2017|website=WWD|language=en|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185524/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kenzo-takada-receives-lifetime-achievement-award-japan-fecj-10855521/|url-status=live}} In 1973-74, he made perhaps his biggest mark on fashion by leading a silhouette change, loosening and increasing the volume of the popular peasant styles of the time to create what came to be called the "Big Look," with "big" meaning voluminous, soon to become the main high fashion trend of the mid-1970s,{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Kenzo Displays His Imagination With a Fun-Filled Show in Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=1973-04-04 |page=38 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1973/04/04/archives/kenzo-displays-his-imagination-with-a-funfilled-fashion-show-in.html |access-date=2021-12-31 |quote=The models wore big, bulky sweaters over full dirndl skirts in gray flannel, tent dresses and tent coats and pleated dresses with embroidered white petticoats worn under them....[H]emlines ranged from below the knee to above the ankle...These long skirts have a certain kick to them. They're very full, even the flannel ones. |archive-date=1 January 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220101145434/https://www.nytimes.com/1973/04/04/archives/kenzo-displays-his-imagination-with-a-funfilled-fashion-show-in.html |url-status=live }}{{cite journal |last1=Salmans |first1=Sandra |title=Seventh Avenue |journal=The New York Times |date=1974-08-25 |page=96 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1974/08/25/archives/seventh-avenue.html |access-date=2021-12-10 |quote=...[T]he Big Look...was pioneered in Paris a year ago [1973] by Kenzo Takada...with absurdly large skirts and coats....[T]he look features long skirts, dropped shoulders, dolman sleeves and large armholes, blouson jackets, blowing capes, and loose dresses–all laid on with layers of fabric. |archive-date=10 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211210190746/https://www.nytimes.com/1974/08/25/archives/seventh-avenue.html |url-status=live }}{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |author-link=Jane Mulvagh |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=337 |chapter=1974 |quote=Kenzo anticipated a major change this winter by creating a full, circular skirt, easily caught by the wind...The replacement of the short, kicky skirt by the longer, fuller style was the most important change in the silhouette...The new coat and cape shapes were also looser, fuller and longer – the hemline was anywhere from 3 inches below the knee to the ankle. This voluminous, unconstructed style was christened the 'Big Look'.}}{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |author-link=Jane Mulvagh |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=339 |chapter=1975 |quote=By the autumn, the Big Look had gained wider acceptance...Miyake and Kenzo concentrated on the new line. 'Much too big is the right size,' as Kenzo put it. He produced larger-than-life, loose, casual clothes – smocks, tent dresses and huge striped dungarees...The loose smock dress was also found at Rykiel, Muir, Saint Laurent, Burrows and Calvin Klein.}}{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |author-link=Jane Mulvagh |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=342 |chapter=1976-1986 |quote=...[B]y 1976 the Big Look – large, layered, peasant-inspired dressing – dominated Vogue...}}{{cite book |last1=Larkin |first1=Kathy |title=1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 |date=1979 |publisher=Crowell-Collier Publishing Company |pages=249–251 |chapter=Fashion |quote=[1978] began with women submerged under layers of soft shapeless clothing (unlined, unconstructed jackets, loose shirts and vests, and skirts spreading wide...)....The well-dressed woman started the year wearing soft, billowy, layered styles...}} a period during which he was cited as originating a number of major trends.{{cite journal |last1=Dorsey |first1=Hebe |title=Fashion |journal=The New York Times |date=1976-11-14 |page=239 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html |access-date=2022-04-04 |quote=...[H]e is widely imitated. Many fashion authorities credit Kenzo with starting such recent trends as kimono sleeves, the layered look, folklore fashion, winter cotton, the explosion of bright colors, vests, baggy pants and workers' clothes. |archive-date=19 February 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180219031145/http://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html |url-status=live }}{{cite news |last1=Hyde |first1=Nina S. |author-link=Nina Hyde |title=Paris Fashions in the Fall: Big is Best |newspaper=The Washington Post |date=1977-11-01 |url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/11/01/paris-fashion-in-the-fall-big-is-best/fa54dfc8-9030-437b-b086-5c775e258fcc/ |access-date=2021-12-10 |quote=The favorite togs of young fashion-conscious women this fall on the Boulevard Saint Germain...are oversized jackets and vests, big, sloppy V-neck sweaters, ties and men's hats, floppy skirts and pegged corduroy pants....[T]he look has less to do with the [Woody Allen] film [Annie Hall] than with an oversize menswear look for women initiated by Paris designer Kenzo...}}{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |author-link=Jane Mulvagh |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=353 |chapter=1976 |quote=The waistline had dropped to the hip and was typically swathed with jersey or emphasized by a low-slung belt. Kenzo was the instigator of this change...}}{{cite journal |last1=Dorsey |first1=Hebe |title=Fashion |journal=The New York Times |date=1976-11-14 |page=239 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html |access-date=2022-04-04 |quote=The hottest news from the Paris spring prêt‐à‐porter collections is the mini. And the man who put it back in the spotlight is Kenzo....There were short skirts with balloon tops, caught under a low belt; some skirts then swirled out, but others, neat and tapered, were just little wraparounds. |archive-date=19 February 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180219031145/http://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html |url-status=live }}{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Paris Report |journal=The New York Times |date=1976-11-28 |page=237 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/28/archives/fashion-paris-report-sunstruck-styles.html |access-date=2022-03-10 |quote=[The mini']s most dramatic form is the voluminous smock that Kenzo devised, always belted at the hips. |archive-date=10 March 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220310192103/https://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/28/archives/fashion-paris-report-sunstruck-styles.html |url-status=live }} In October 1976, Takada opened his flagship store, Kenzo, in the Place des Victoires.{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kenzo-takada-knight-of-the-legion-of-honor-laurent-fabius10443194-10443194/|title=France Honors Kenzo Takada|last=Guilbault|first=Laure|date=3 June 2016|website=WWD|language=en|access-date=16 June 2019|archive-date=4 June 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160604013806/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kenzo-takada-knight-of-the-legion-of-honor-laurent-fabius10443194-10443194/|url-status=live}} Takada proved his sense of dramatic appearance when, in 1978 and 1979, he held his shows in a circus tent, finishing with horsewomen performers wearing transparent uniforms and he himself riding an elephant.{{Cite web|url=http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/kenzo-star-of-the-east-2149376.html|title=Kenzo: star of the east|date=4 December 2010|website=The Independent|language=en|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=8 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201008161247/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/kenzo-star-of-the-east-2149376.html|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/juan-gatti-project-for-kenzo|title=In Living Color|last=Nelson|first=Karin|date=1 August 2012|website=W Magazine|language=en|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185531/https://www.wmagazine.com/story/juan-gatti-project-for-kenzo/|url-status=live}} Takada even had the chance to direct a film called Yume, yume no ato, which was released in 1981.{{Cite web|url=https://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2b78ebfd5f|title=Yume, Yume No Ato (1981)|website=BFI|language=en|access-date=16 June 2019|archive-date=20 July 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160720195215/http://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2b78ebfd5f|url-status=live}}{{cite book|author=Yoshiharu Tezuka|title=Japanese Cinema Goes Global: Filmworkers' Journeys|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lDQwz9h6pOoC&pg=PA176|date=1 November 2011|publisher=Hong Kong University Press|isbn=978-988-8083-32-9|pages=176–|access-date=25 February 2020|archive-date=5 March 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305213157/https://books.google.com/books?id=lDQwz9h6pOoC&pg=PA176#v=onepage&q&f=false|url-status=live}}

File:Paris Hôtel de Soyecourt 1143.JPG

Takada's business flourished into the 1980s. Kenzo's annual sales grew from {{Currency|30,000,000|FRF}} in 1979, to {{Currency|240,000,000|FRF}} in 1984. Takada's first men's collection was launched in 1983. In August 1984, The Limited Stores announced that they had signed Takada to design a less-expensive clothing line called Album by Kenzo.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1984/08/14/style/kenzo-to-do-inexpensive-line.html|title=Kenzo to Do Inexpensive Line|date=14 August 1984|work=The New York Times|access-date=16 June 2019|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=16 June 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616182422/https://www.nytimes.com/1984/08/14/style/kenzo-to-do-inexpensive-line.html|url-status=live}} A children's line called Kenzo Jungle, as well as men's and women's jeans, was released in 1986.{{Cite book|url=https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/fashion-photography-archive/article/kenzo-takada|chapter=Kenzo Takada|last=Herold|first=Stephanie Edith|title=Fashion Photography Archive|date=2015|publisher=Bloomsbury|isbn=9781474260428|doi=10.5040/9781474260428-fpa102|access-date=25 February 2020|archive-date=22 July 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190722024836/https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/fashion-photography-archive/article/kenzo-takada|url-status=live}}

Takada also made ventures into the perfume business. He first experimented with perfumes by releasing King Kong in 1980, which he created "just for fun".{{Cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/15/fashion-notes/3fc69745-ed9c-4a46-99bc-473ee4bb6c54/|title=Fashion Notes|last=Hyde|first=Nina S.|author-link=Nina Hyde|date=15 April 1979|newspaper=The Washington Post|access-date=16 June 2019|archive-date=16 June 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616182427/https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/15/fashion-notes/3fc69745-ed9c-4a46-99bc-473ee4bb6c54/|url-status=live}}{{Cite news|url=https://fashionista.com/2017/06/kenzo-takada-designer-interview|title=Kenzo Takada on His Very Creative Life Before, During and After Founding Kenzo|last=Bauck|first=Whitney|date=29 June 2017|website=Fashionista|language=en|access-date=16 June 2019|archive-date=5 March 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305213142/https://fashionista.com/2017/06/kenzo-takada-designer-interview|url-status=live}} In 1988, his women's perfume line began with Kenzo de Kenzo (now known as Ça Sent Beau), Parfum d'été, Le monde est beau, and L'eau par Kenzo. Kenzo pour Homme was his first men's perfume (1991).  FlowerbyKenzo, launched in 2000, was listed by Vogue's website as one of the best classic French perfumes of all time.{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/perfume-france-chanel-yves-saint-laurent-francis-kurkdjian|title=The Best Classic French Perfumes of All Time|last=Piercy|first=Catherine|website=Vogue|date=30 September 2016|language=en|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=6 March 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190306140243/https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/perfume-france-chanel-yves-saint-laurent-francis-kurkdjian|url-status=live}} In 2001, a skincare line, KenzoKI was also launched.{{Cite web|url=https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/kenzos-skin-care-line-hits-the-states-worth-the-120543832.html|title=Kenzo's Skin Care Line Hits the States; Worth the Wait|last=Douglas|first=Joanna|date=5 October 2015|website=www.yahoo.com|language=en-US|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185522/https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/kenzos-skin-care-line-hits-the-states-worth-the-120543832.html|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.elle.fr/Beaute/Dossiers-beaute/Parfums/Kenzo-Parfums-souffle-ses-20-bougies-!-688409|title=Kenzo Parfums souffle ses 20 bougies ! - Elle|last=Petit|first=Elodie|date=8 August 2008|website=elle.fr|language=fr|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185524/https://www.elle.fr/Beaute/Dossiers-beaute/Parfums/Kenzo-Parfums-souffle-ses-20-bougies-!-688409|url-status=live}}

Since 1993 the brand Kenzo is owned by the French luxury goods company LVMH.{{Cite web|title=LVMH buys Kenzo apparel maker|url=https://www.upi.com/Archives/1993/08/02/LVMH-buys-Kenzo-apparel-maker/8916744264000/|access-date=4 October 2020|website=UPI|language=en|archive-date=30 June 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200630085352/https://www.upi.com/Archives/1993/08/02/LVMH-buys-Kenzo-apparel-maker/8916744264000/|url-status=live}}

In 2016, he created a perfume for Avon.{{Cite web|title=Avon Life by Kenzo Takada for Him Avon cologne - a fragrance for men 2016|url=https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Avon/Avon-Life-by-Kenzo-Takada-for-Him-39830.html|access-date=4 October 2020|website=www.fragrantica.com|language=EN|archive-date=5 March 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305213124/https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Avon/Avon-Life-by-Kenzo-Takada-for-Him-39830.html|url-status=live}}

Retirement from and subsequent activity in the fashion industry

File:KenzoTakada2.jpg

Takada announced his retirement in 1999 to pursue a career in art,{{cite web|url=https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/style/brand-watch-kenzo-takada/news-story/36e211edf40d6d8de10b553fc52bbad7|title=Brand watch: Kenzo Takada|last=Woolnough|first=Damien|date=1 February 2013|publisher=The Australian|access-date=10 March 2020|archive-date=18 April 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230418100319/https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/style/brand-watch-kenzo-takada/news-story/36e211edf40d6d8de10b553fc52bbad7|url-status=live}} leaving Roy Krejberg and Gilles Rosier to handle the design of Kenzo's men's and women's clothing, respectively.{{Cite web|url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-oct-08-cl-19969-story.html|title=Kenzo Bids Fashion Adieu|last=Quintanilla|first=Michael|date=8 October 1999|website=Los Angeles Times|language=en-US|access-date=11 March 2020|archive-date=10 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201010051923/https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-oct-08-cl-19969-story.html|url-status=live}}{{Cite news|last=Menkes|first=Suzy|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1999/09/14/style/IHT-gilles-rosieron-to-kenzo.html|title=Gilles Rosier: On to Kenzo|date=14 September 1999|work=The New York Times|access-date=11 March 2020|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=8 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201008151807/https://www.nytimes.com/1999/09/14/style/IHT-gilles-rosieron-to-kenzo.html|url-status=live}} However, in 2005 he reappeared as a decoration designer presenting Gokan Kobo (五感工房 "workshop of the five senses"), a brand of tableware, home objects, and furniture. After a few years off, he wanted to take a new direction, stating "when I stopped working five years ago, I went on vacation, I rested, I traveled. And when I decided to work again, I told myself it would be in decoration, more than fashion."{{cite web|title=Paris-based designer Kenzo Tanaka back in the spotlight|url=http://www.sawfnews.com/fashion/2481.aspx|publisher=sawfnews.com|access-date=27 March 2012|url-status=usurped|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120415122830/http://www.sawfnews.com/fashion/2481.aspx|archive-date=15 April 2012}} Additionally, in 2013 Kenzo joined the Asian Couture Federation as the organisation's inaugural Honorary President.{{cite web|url=http://www.herworldplus.com/fashion/updates/kenzo-takada-asian-fashion-designers-can-become-next-trendsetters#.U8SK7qgbY0E|title=Kenzo Takada: Asian fashion designers can become the next trendsetters|last1=Hong|first1=Xinying|date=15 October 2013|website=Her World Plus|publisher=Her World|access-date=15 July 2014|archive-date=4 March 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304051829/http://www.herworldplus.com/fashion/updates/kenzo-takada-asian-fashion-designers-can-become-next-trendsetters#.U8SK7qgbY0E|url-status=dead}} In 2010 Kenzo's paintings were the subject of a one-man exhibition in Paris titled "Un Certain Style de Vie", A Certain Way of Life".{{Cite web|url=https://www.luxuo.com/culture/art/kenzo-takada-paintings.html|title=Kenzo Takada First Painting Exhibition|date=17 June 2010|website=LUXUO|access-date=4 October 2020|archive-date=10 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201010040339/https://www.luxuo.com/culture/art/kenzo-takada-paintings.html|url-status=live}}

Takada was made a Knight of the Legion of Honour on 2 June 2016.{{Cite web|url=https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/a25167928/kenzo-takada/|title=Chi è Kenzo Takada, tigre gentile della moda|last=Sciola|first=Giulia|date=21 November 2018|website=Esquire|language=it-IT|access-date=16 June 2019|archive-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205000420/https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/a25167928/kenzo-takada/|url-status=live}} He was further honored by a Lifetime Achievement Award at the 55th Fashion Editors' Club of Japan Awards in 2017. That same year, Takada unveiled a new collection with Roche Bobois, giving its Mah Jong sofa new upholstery and creating a line of ceramics.{{Cite web|last=Luckel|first=Madeleine|date=30 June 2017|title=Legendary Designer Kenzo Takada Unveils a New Line for Home|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/kenzo-roche-bobois-furniture-collaboration|access-date=2 July 2020|website=Vogue|language=en-us|archive-date=4 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200704104921/https://www.vogue.com/article/kenzo-roche-bobois-furniture-collaboration|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|last=Eckardt|first=Stephanie|date=29 June 2017|title=Catching Up with Kenzo Takada, the OG Founder of Kenzo Who Is Designing Under His Own Name Again at 78|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/kenzo-takada-designer-interview/|access-date=2 July 2020|website=W Magazine {{!}} Women's Fashion & Celebrity News|language=en-US|archive-date=3 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200703031238/https://www.wmagazine.com/story/kenzo-takada-designer-interview/|url-status=live}} Following his departure from the fashion industry, Takada occasionally ventured back into fashion. In 2019 he designed costumes for a production of Madama Butterfly by the Tokyo Nikikai Opera Foundation.{{Cite news|last=Lee|first=Jae|url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2019/09/29/style/kenzo-takada-adds-legacy-operatic-style/|title=Kenzo Takada adds to a legacy of operatic style|date=29 September 2019|work=The Japan Times Online|access-date=10 March 2020|language=en-US|issn=0447-5763|archive-date=11 October 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191011154428/https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2019/09/29/style/kenzo-takada-adds-legacy-operatic-style/|url-status=live}} He also used his eye for design in other ways, collaborating with the Mandarin Oriental Jumeira in Dubai to design the hotel's first publicly-displayed Christmas tree during the 2019 holiday season.{{Cite news|url=https://www.harpersbazaararabia.com/lifestyle/entertain/this-fashion-icon-will-design-mandarin-oriental-jumeira-dubais-first-christmas-tree|title=This Fashion Icon Will Design Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai's First Christmas Tree|last=Shaikh|first=Ayesha Sohail Shehmir|date=26 November 2019|newspaper=Harper\'S Bazaar Arabia|language=en|access-date=10 March 2020|archive-date=11 August 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200811125831/https://www.harpersbazaararabia.com/lifestyle/entertain/this-fashion-icon-will-design-mandarin-oriental-jumeira-dubais-first-christmas-tree|url-status=live}}

In January 2020, Takada announced that he would be launching a new lifestyle brand named K3.{{Cite web|url=https://asiatimes.com/2020/01/kenzo-dreams-up-another-design-classic/|title=Kenzo dreams up another design classic|last=Nedbaeva|first=Olga|date=23 January 2020|website=Asia Times|language=en-US|access-date=10 March 2020|archive-date=11 March 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200311064902/https://asiatimes.com/2020/01/kenzo-dreams-up-another-design-classic/|url-status=live}} The brand made its first appearance on 17 January 2020 at the Maison et Objet trade show, as well as in a Parisian showroom.{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/kenzo-takada-unveils-lifestyle-brand-1203417803/|title=Kenzo Takada Unveils Lifestyle Brand|last=Burlet|first=Fleur|date=10 January 2020|website=WWD|language=en|access-date=10 March 2020|archive-date=12 January 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200112021401/https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/kenzo-takada-unveils-lifestyle-brand-1203417803/|url-status=live}}

Personal life and death

Takada was in a relationship with French architect Xavier de Castella, who died in August 1990 from an AIDS-related illness.{{Cite web|url=https://derstandard.at/1350261282964/Kenzo-Takada-Farben-trage-ich-nur-im-Urlaub|title=Kenzo Takada: "Farben trage ich nur im Urlaub" - derStandard.at|date=18 November 2012|website=Der Standard|language=de-AT|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=3 April 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180403112502/https://derstandard.at/1350261282964/Kenzo-Takada-Farben-trage-ich-nur-im-Urlaub|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.humanite.fr/node/11766|title=Rire à capri, mourir à venise|date=27 October 1990|website=L'Humanité|language=fr|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185520/https://www.humanite.fr/node/11766|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.liberation.fr/portrait/1999/12/09/kenzo-takada-60-ans-quitte-le-monde-de-la-mode-et-ses-fleurs-pour-se-concocter-une-existence-sans-so_291379|title=Kenzo Takada, 60 ans, quitte le monde de la mode et ses fleurs pour se concocter une existence sans soucis. Au Japonais absent.|last=Boulay|first=Anne|date=9 December 1999|website=Libération.fr|language=fr|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185524/https://www.liberation.fr/portrait/1999/12/09/kenzo-takada-60-ans-quitte-le-monde-de-la-mode-et-ses-fleurs-pour-se-concocter-une-existence-sans-so_291379|url-status=dead}} De Castella helped design Takada's {{convert|1300|m2|sqft|abbr=off|adj=on|sp=us}} Japanese-style house, which started construction in 1987 and was completed in 1993.{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2007/12/14/realestate/14iht-13rekenzo.8742598.html|title=The house Kenzo built|last=Rafferty|first=Jean|date=14 December 2007|work=The New York Times|access-date=15 June 2019|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=25 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200225185522/https://www.nytimes.com/2007/12/14/realestate/14iht-13rekenzo.8742598.html|url-status=live}}{{cite book|author=Zahid Sardar|title=In & Out of Paris: Gardens of Secret Delights|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KfDXBAAAQBAJ&pg=PT134|date=16 October 2014|publisher=Gibbs Smith|isbn=978-1-4236-3271-9|pages=134–|access-date=15 June 2019|archive-date=5 March 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305213127/https://books.google.com/books?id=KfDXBAAAQBAJ&pg=PT134#v=onepage&q&f=false|url-status=live}}

Takada died on 4 October 2020 from complications from COVID-19 while hospitalized at the American Hospital of Paris in Neuilly-sur-Seine during the COVID-19 pandemic in France.{{cite web |last1=Friedman |first1=Vanessa |title=Kenzo Takada, Who Brought Japanese Fashion to the World, Dies at 81 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/04/style/kenzo-takada-dead.html |website=The New York Times |date=4 October 2020 |access-date=5 October 2020 |archive-date=5 October 2020 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20201005075204/https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/04/style/kenzo-takada-dead.html |url-status=live }} He was 81 years old.{{Cite web|url=https://www.bfmtv.com/people/le-createur-japonais-kenzo-takada-est-mort-des-suites-du-covid-19_AD-202010040165.html|title=Le créateur japonais Kenzo Takada est mort des suites du Covid-19|website=BFMTV|access-date=4 October 2020|archive-date=7 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201007093724/https://www.bfmtv.com/people/le-createur-japonais-kenzo-takada-est-mort-des-suites-du-covid-19_AD-202010040165.html|url-status=live}}{{Cite news|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-fashion-kenzo-idUSKBN26P0PS|title=Japanese fashion designer Kenzo Takada dies from COVID-19|first=Sarah|last=White|newspaper=Reuters|date=4 October 2020|via=www.reuters.com|access-date=4 October 2020|archive-date=6 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201006180429/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-fashion-kenzo-idUSKBN26P0PS|url-status=live}}

Awards

  • France: Ordre des Arts et des Lettres / Chevalier, 1984
  • Japan: Medals of Honor / Medal with Purple Ribbon, 1999{{Cite web |title=KENZO ケンゾー 高田賢三 |trans-title=Kenzo |language=ja |website=Fashion Street |url=http://www.fashion-st.net/link/kenzo.html |access-date=5 October 2020 |archive-date=17 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210517135113/http://www.fashion-st.net/link/kenzo.html |url-status=live }}
  • France: Legion of Honour / Chevalier, 2016

See also

References

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