Kering
{{Short description|French multinational corporation}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=February 2020}}
{{Infobox company
| name = Kering S.A.
| logo = File:Kering logo.svg
| image = Hôpital Laennec, Rue de Sèvres, Paris.jpg
| image_size =
| image_caption = The former Laennec hospital in Paris, Kering's world headquarters.
| former_name = Pinault S.A.
Pinault-Printemps-Redoute
PPR
| type = Public
| traded_as = {{EuronextParis|KER|FR0000121485|XPAR}}
CAC 40 component
| hq_location = 40 rue de Sèvres, Paris 7e, France
| foundation = {{start date and age|1962}}
| founder = François Pinault
| key_people = François-Henri Pinault (chairman and CEO)
| industry = Conglomerate
| products = Luxury goods
| revenue = {{decrease}} €17.20 billion (2024)
| operating_income = {{decrease}} €2.55 billion (2024)
| net_income = {{decrease}} €1.13 billion (2024)
| assets = {{increase}} €43.35 billion (2024)
| equity = {{increase}} €15.73 billion (2024)
| owners = {{ubl|
- Groupe Artémis (42.23%){{cite web |url=https://live.euronext.com/en/product/equities/FR0000121485-XPAR/company-information |title=Kering |publisher=Euronext Paris |access-date=10 December 2024}}
- Public float (56.89%; 2024)
}}
| num_employees = 47,000 (2024)
| subsid = {{flatlist|
- Alexander McQueen
- Balenciaga
- Bottega Veneta
- Boucheron
- Brioni
- Creed
- Gucci
- Pomellato
- Qeelin
- Yves Saint Laurent
}}
| homepage = {{URL|kering.com}}
}}
Kering S.A. ({{IPA|fr|kɛːʁiŋ|lang}}) is a French multinational holding company specializing in luxury goods, headquartered in Paris. It owns the brands Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Creed, Maui Jim, and Alexander McQueen.
The timber-trading company Pinault S.A. was founded in 1962, by François Pinault. After the company was quoted on Euronext Paris in 1988, it became the retail conglomerate Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR) in 1994. The luxury group was rebranded Kering in 2013. It has been a constituent of the CAC 40 since 1995. François-Henri Pinault has been president and CEO of Kering since 2005. In 2024, the group's revenue reached €17.2 billion.
History
= Timber (1962-1988) =
{{Main article|François Pinault}}
In 1962, François Pinault opened the Établissements Pinault in Brittany (France) specialized in timber trading with a 100,000 francs loan from the bank. His business grew rapidly by acquiring many failing local timber operations and building its own import bridges, turning Pinault S.A. into a leading timber trader in France in the 1980s. By 1988, the group owned 180 companies and 33 factories for an annual revenue of 10 billion francs.{{Cite web |date=1988-05-21 |title=François Pinault et sa stratégie d'entreprise : toujours se démarquer |url=https://mediaclip.ina.fr/fr/i22189013-francois-pinault-et-sa-strategie-d-entreprise-toujours-se-demarquer.html |access-date=2024-07-02 |website=mediaclip |language=fr}}
= Retail (1988-2013) =
In 1988, Pinault S.A. was listed on the Paris Stock Exchange and started an era of growth in the retail sector through major acquisitions.{{Cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/business/1999/apr/03/3|title=From timber merchant to corporate axeman|author=Guardian Staff|date=1999-04-03|work=The Guardian|access-date=2019-08-25|language=en-GB|issn=0261-3077}} In 1989, Pinault S.A. purchased 20% of CFAO, a French distribution conglomerate active throughout Africa. In 1990, Pinault S.A. and CFAO merged, and François Pinault became head of the newly formed group which acquired Conforama (French furniture retailer) in 1991, Printemps (department stores in France) in 1992, which also owned 54% of La Redoute (French mail-order shopping retailer), and Fnac (French bookstore, multimedia and electronics retailer) in 1994. The group was renamed Pinault-Printemps-Redoute in 1994.
In 1999, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute purchased a controlling 42% stake of the Gucci group for $3 billion and 100% of Yves Saint Laurent.{{cite web|url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-mar-20-fi-19096-story.html|title=Gucci Group Agrees to Sell 40% Stake to French Retailer|website=Los Angeles Times|date=20 March 1999|access-date=24 July 2017}}{{cite web|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/business/1999/11/16/gucci-to-buy-parent-of-yves-saint-laurent/1971b749-2e0c-448f-86b3-57dd492b6999/|title=Gucci to Buy Parent Of Yves Saint Laurent|website=Washingtonpost.com|date=16 November 1999|author=Sri Ramakrishnan|access-date=24 July 2017}}{{cite web|url=https://money.cnn.com/1999/05/27/europe/gucci/|title=Gucci fades on court ruling|website=Cnn.com|date=27 May 1999|access-date=24 July 2017}} Those investments marked the cornerstone of the group's shift towards luxury. Through Gucci, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute acquired Boucheron in 2000,{{Cite web |date=2000-05-24 |title=GUCCI BUYS AGAIN: DEAL FOR BOUCHERON BOOSTS JEWELRY UNIT |url=https://wwd.com/feature/article-1195266-1712101/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=WWD |language=en-US}} Bottega Veneta in 2001,{{Cite web |date=2001-02-08 |title=GUCCI STRIKES AGAIN: BUYS MAJORITY SHARE OF BOTTEGA VENETA |url=https://wwd.com/feature/article-1176448-1729417/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=WWD |language=en-US}} Balenciaga in 2001,{{Cite news |last=Finch |first=Julia |date=2001-07-07 |title=Gucci liked the designer so much it bought Balenciaga |url=https://www.theguardian.com/business/2001/jul/07/1 |access-date=2024-05-01 |work=The Guardian |language=en-GB |issn=0261-3077}} and signed partnerships with Alexander McQueen{{Cite news |last=Bellafante |first=Ginia |date=2000-12-05 |title=Gucci secures a deal with Alexander McQueen |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2000/12/05/style/front-row-gucci-secures-deal-with-alexander-mcqueen-cookies-are-more-gratifying.html |access-date=2024-05-01 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} and Stella McCartney.{{cite book |last1=McNeil |first1=Peter |last2=Riello |first2=Giorgio |date=19 May 2016 |title=Luxury: A Rich History |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EsowDAAAQBAJ |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=9780191640278|page=256}}
In 2003, François-Henri Pinault, son of the founder François Pinault, became general manager of Artémis, the family holding company that controlled Pinault-Printemps-Redoute. In 2005, he was named president and CEO of Pinault-Printemps-Redoute,{{cite news |author=Joshua Levine |date=15 February 2013 |title=The Man Behind the Curtain |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/15/t-magazine/the-man-behind-the-curtain.html |access-date=24 July 2017 |website=The New York Times}} a year after the group had reached a 99.4% ownership of Gucci.{{cite web |author=Suzanne Kapner |date=23 March 2004 |title=PPR moves to buy last 30% of Gucci Group |url=https://nypost.com/2004/03/23/ppr-moves-to-buy-last-30-of-gucci-group/ |access-date=24 July 2017 |website=Nypost.com}} The group continued acquiring luxury brands: Sowind Group (watch company owner of Girard-Perregaux){{Cite news |date=2011-07-05 |title=PPR becomes majority shareholder of Sowind Group |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/ppr-sowind/ppr-becomes-majority-shareholder-of-sowind-group-idUSWEB833620110704/ |access-date=2024-07-02 |work=Reuters}} and Brioni (Italian tailor) in 2011,{{cite web|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052970204190704577026011411533018|title=PPR Buys Menswear Brand Brioni|website=Wsj.com|date=8 November 2011|author=Christina Passariello|access-date=24 December 2013}} Pomellato Group (jewelry company owner of Pomellato and Dodo){{cite web|url=http://wwd.com/accessories-news/jewelry/kering-acquires-pomellato-6906980/|title=Kering Acquires Pomellato|website=Wwd.com|date=24 April 2013|author=Luisa Zargani, Miles Socha|access-date=24 July 2017}} and Qeelin (jewelry) in 2012,{{cite web|url=https://www.fashionunited.com/executive/management/ppr-acquires-majority-stake-in-chinese-qeelin-20121112490803|title=PPR acquires majority stake in Chinese Qeelin|website=Fashiounited.com|date=9 December 2012|access-date=24 July 2017}} Christopher Kane (British fashion house){{cite web |author=Ella Alexander |date=15 January 2013 |title=PPR Buys Majority Stake In Christopher Kane |url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-bought-by-ppr-majority-stake-acquisition |access-date=24 July 2017 |website=Vogue.co.uk}} and Richard Ginori (porcelain) in 2013, Ulysse Nardin (watches) in 2014.{{cite web|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/elizabethdoerr/2014/07/30/kering-previously-ppr-gucci-group-acquires-ulysse-nardin/|title=Kering (Previously PPR, Gucci Group) Acquires Ulysse Nardin|website=Forbes.com|date=30 July 2014|author=Elizabeth Doerr|access-date=24 July 2017}} The group also sold its retail assets: Le Printemps in 2006,{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2006/06/20/business/worldbusiness/20iht-ppr.html|title=As sales fall, PPR works to unload Printemps|website=The New York Times|date=20 June 2006|author=Sara Gay Forden, Jacqueline Simmons|access-date=24 July 2017}} Conforama in 2011,{{cite web |title=PPR Looks to Sell Conforama |website=The Wall Street Journal |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220611063509/https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703766704576008672183381168 |archive-date=2022-06-11 |url-status=live |url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703766704576008672183381168}} CFAO in 2012,{{cite web |title=Toyota Tsusho to buy PPR stake in CFAO |website=Reuters |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220611063508/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-toyota-ppr/toyota-tsusho-to-buy-ppr-stake-in-cfao-idUSBRE86P09F20120726 |archive-date=2022-06-11 |url-status=live |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-toyota-ppr/toyota-tsusho-to-buy-ppr-stake-in-cfao-idUSBRE86P09F20120726}} Fnac in 2012, and La Redoute in 2013.[https://www.reuters.com/article/us-ppr-agm/ppr-says-in-talks-to-sell-la-redoute-by-year-end-idUSBRE95H0Q420130618 PPR says in talks to sell La Redoute by year-end] PPR developed a Sport & Lifestyle portfolio with the acquisition of Puma in 2007, Cobra Golf in 2010,{{cite web|url=http://www.worldgolf.com/newswire/browse/62896-Puma-acquires-Cobra-Golf-and-announces-becoming-Cobra-Puma-Golf|title=Puma acquires Cobra Golf and announces becoming Cobra-Puma Golf|website=Worldgolf.com|date=10 May 2010|access-date=24 July 2017}} and Volcom in 2011,{{cite web|url=https://dealbook.nytimes.com/2011/05/02/ppr-to-buy-sportswear-company-volcom/?_r=0|title=PPR to Buy Volcom, a Sportswear Maker|website=The New York Times|date=2 May 2011|author=Chris V. Nicholson|access-date=24 July 2017}} all of which were sold the following decade.{{cite web |author=Beth Wright |date=16 May 2018 |title=Kering officially spins off Puma |url=https://www.just-style.com/news/kering-officially-spins-off-puma_id133534.aspx |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191113121303/https://www.just-style.com/news/kering-officially-spins-off-puma_id133534.aspx |archive-date=13 November 2019 |access-date=19 June 2018 |website=Just-style.com}}
= Luxury (since 2013) =
In March 2013, PPR changed its name to Kering.{{Cite web |last=Jolly |first=David |date=22 March 2013 |title=PPR to Show Breton Roots With Rebranding as Kering |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/23/business/global/ppr-to-show-breton-roots-with-rebranding-as-kering.html |access-date=22 November 2023 |website=The New York Times}} The leather-weaver Bottega Veneta was transformed into a "quiet luxury" icon, hitting the billion-dollar mark in sales in 2012.{{Cite web |last=Zargani |first=Luisa |date=2013-02-22 |title=Sales, Profits Up at Bottega Veneta in 2012 |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/sales-profits-up-at-bottega-veneta-6788889/ |access-date=2024-07-02 |website=WWD |language=en-US}} In 2014, Kering created its own eyewear production arm, Kering Eyewear, growing its revenue to 1.5 billion euros in 2023, and acquired the eyewear brands Lindberg in 2021{{Cite web |last=Mira |first=Nicola |date=July 9, 2021 |title=Kering Eyewear buys 100% stake in Danish brand Lindberg |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Kering-eyewear-buys-100-stake-in-danish-brand-lindberg,1318401.html |access-date=2021-09-30 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-WW}} and Maui Jim in 2022.{{Cite web |date=2022-03-14 |title=Kering Eyewear acquires Hawaiian eyewear brand Maui Jim |url=https://www.moodiedavittreport.com/kering-eyewear-acquires-hawaiian-eyewear-brand-maui-jim/ |access-date=2022-03-14 |website=The Moodie Davitt Report |language=en-GB}} The traditional Balenciaga house was turned into a disruptive fashion house{{cite web |author=Jess Cartner-Morley |date=2 October 2016 |title=Demna Gvasalia reinvigorates Balenciaga with strategic disrespect |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/oct/02/demna-gvasalia-reinvigorates-balenciaga-with-strategic-disrespect |access-date=24 July 2017 |website=Theguardian.com}} and Yves Saint Laurent hit the 2-billion dollar sales mark in 2019.{{Cite web |last=Guyot |first=Olivier |date=17 February 2020 |title=Saint Laurent franchit la barre des 2 milliards d'euros |url=https://fr.fashionnetwork.com/news/Saint-laurent-franchit-la-barre-des-2-milliards-d-euros,1185983.html |access-date=2024-07-02 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=fr}} However, from 2015 to 2022, the group's revenue was essentially driven by Gucci's year-on-year high performance, hitting the 10-billion dollars sales mark in 2022.{{Cite news |last=Garnier |first=Juliette |date=2023-09-22 |title=After undergoing intense reinvention, Gucci searches hard for a second coming |url=https://www.lemonde.fr/en/france/article/2023/09/22/after-undergoing-intense-reinvention-gucci-searches-hard-for-a-second-coming_6138507_7.html |access-date=2024-07-02 |work=Le Monde.fr |language=en}} The group divested its interests in Stella McCartney in 2018,{{cite web |author=Ben Stevens |date=29 March 2018 |title=Kering offloads entire stake in Stella McCartney |url=https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2018/03/kering-offloads-entire-stake-stella-mccartney/ |access-date=19 June 2018 |website=Retailgazette.co.uk}} Christopher Kane in 2019,{{Cite web |last=Agnew |first=Harriet |date=2018-06-21 |title=Christopher Kane in talks to buy back brand from Kering |url=https://www.ft.com/content/c45cc2ca-756f-11e8-aa31-31da4279a601 |access-date=2024-07-02 |website=www.ft.com}} and its entire watch division (Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin) in 2022.Sudip Kar-Gupta, Mimosa Spencer and Silke Koltrowitz, [https://www.reuters.com/world/europe/luxury-goods-group-kering-sell-girard-perregaux-ulysse-nardin-divisions-2022-01-24/ Luxury goods group Kering to sell watches division], Reuters.com, 24 January 2022
In 2023, Kering's annual results declined to 19.6 billion (-4%), mainly caused by the deceleration of Gucci's streak, a transition phase according to the group's executives.{{Cite web |last=Danziger |first=Pamela N. |title=Trouble In The House Of Gucci: Kering Struggles To Revive The Brand's Sparkle |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2023/10/29/trouble-in-the-house-of-gucci-kering-struggles-to-revive-the-brands-sparkle/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=Forbes |language=en}} That same year, Kering acquired the fragrance company Creed,{{Cite web |last1=Massoudi |first1=Arash |last2=Klasa |first2=Adrienne |last3=Abboud |first3=Leila |date=2023-07-09 |title=Kering paid €3.5bn for fragrance company Creed |url=https://www.ft.com/content/79ca0a2d-4114-425c-8b35-74042838ae6f |access-date=2024-09-04 |website=www.ft.com}} 30% of the fashion house Valentino, and Kering Beauté was launched to manage in-house the development of beauty products for the group's brands.{{Cite web |last=Guilbault |first=Laure |date=2023-02-03 |title=Kering enters beauty with new entity led by former Estée Lauder exec |url=https://www.voguebusiness.com/beauty/kering-enters-beauty-with-new-entity-led-by-former-estee-lauder-exec |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=Vogue Business |language=en-US}}
Activities
Kering's headquarters are located in the former Hopital Laennec in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. The parent holding company of Kering is Groupe Artémis. In 2024, Kering made 17.2 billion euros in revenue, and managed 47,000 employees and 1,813 stores.
Kering fully or partially owns the following brands:
class="wikitable sortable"
!Brand !Acquisition Year !Country |
Gucci
|{{flag|Italy}} |
Yves Saint Laurent
|{{flag|France}} |
Boucheron
|{{flag|France}} |
Bottega Veneta
|{{flag|Italy}} |
Balenciaga
|{{flag|Spain}} |
Alexander McQueen
|{{flag|United Kingdom}} |
Brioni
|{{flag|Italy}} |
Qeelin
|{{flag|China}} |
Pomellato
|{{flag|Italy}} |
Dodo
|{{flag|Italy}} |
Ginori 1735
(formerly Richard Ginori) |{{flag|Italy}} |
Lindberg
|{{flag|Denmark}} |
Maui Jim
|{{flag|United States}} |
Creed
|{{flag|United Kingdom}} |
Valentino (30%)
|{{flag|Italy}} |
Kering also owns Kering Eyewear (luxury eyewear production arm){{Cite web |last=Gilles |first=Florent |date=2013-11-18 |title=Former Safilo CEO Roberto Vedovotto joins Kering |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Former-safilo-ceo-roberto-vedovotto-joins-kering,369341.html |access-date=2022-10-25 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-WW}} and Kering Beauté (cosmetics division).
Governance
- Chairman and CEO: François-Henri Pinault
Financial data
class="wikitable"
|+ Results (in € millions) !Year ! 2006 ! 2007 ! 2008 ! 2009 ! 2010 ! 2011 ! 2012 ! 2013 ! 2014 ! 2015 ! 2016 ! 2017 ! 2018 ! 2019 ! 2020 ! 2023 ! 2024 |
Sales
| 17 931 | 17 761 | 20 201 | 16 525 | 11 008 | 12 227 | 9 736 | 9 748 | 10 037 | 11 584 | 12 385 | 15 478 | 13 665.2 | 15 883.3 | 13 100.2 | 19 566 | 17 194 |
Net results
| 680 | 1 058 | 924 | 985 | 965 | 986 | 1 048 | 50 | 528.9 | 696 | 814 | 1 786 | 3 714.9 | 3 211.5 | 1 972.2 | 2 983 | 1 133 |
Commitments
The Kering Foundation was created in 2008 to combat violence against women. Kering was one of the first companies to endorse the Women's Empowerment Principles of the UN Women.{{Cite web |last=Wynne |first=Alex |date=2016-03-03 |title=Kering Partners With UN Women |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kering-partners-un-women-10377868/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=WWD |language=en-US}} Starting in 2019, the Kering Foundation developed actions to combat violence against children, making it a pillar of its operations in 2023.{{Cite web |last=Diderich |first=Joelle |date=2023-09-20 |title=Kering Foundation Expands Remit to Combat Violence Against Children |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/kering-foundation-expands-scope-to-combat-violence-against-children-1235822120/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}
In 2015, Kering became an official partner of the Cannes Film Festival and launched the diversity program Women in Motion{{Cite web |last=Keslassy |first=Elsa |date=2015-03-30 |title=Cannes Film Fest, Kering Launch Women in Motion |url=https://variety.com/2015/film/festivals/cannes-film-fest-kering-launch-women-in-motion-1201462413/ |access-date=2024-05-21 |website=Variety |language=en-US}} which was extended to the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival{{Cite web |last=Diderich |first=Joelle |date=2019-03-13 |title=Kering Partners With Rencontres d'Arles Photography Festival |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kering-partners-with-rencontres-darles-photography-festival-women-in-motion-award-1203084114/ |access-date=2024-07-02 |website=WWD |language=en-US}} and the Tokyo Film Festival in 2019.{{Cite web |last=Frater |first=Patrick |date=2019-10-23 |title=Kering and Tokyo Festival Bring 'Women in Motion' Talk Series to Japan |url=https://variety.com/2019/film/news/kering-and-tokyo-festival-women-in-motion-talk-series-japan-1203380530/ |access-date=2024-06-08 |website=Variety |language=en-US}}
In 2015, the group released the environmental profit and loss account (EP&L).{{Cite news |last=Abnett |first=Kate |date=2016-05-03 |title=Kering Goes Public with Sustainability Report, Revealing Progress and Pain Points |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/bof-exclusive-kering-goes-public-with-sustainability-report-revealing-progress-and-pain-points/ |access-date=2024-07-23 |work=Business of Fashion}} Kering launched the Regenerative Fund for Nature in 2021 to finance the transition to regenerative farming practices{{Cite web |title=Kering launches a new regenerative fund to support leather, cotton, wool and cashmere farmers |url=https://www.wbcsd.org/alyn7 |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) |language=en-GB}} and the Climate Fund for Nature in 2022 to finance nature conservation and restoration initiatives.{{Cite web |date=2022-12-12 |title=Kering, L'Occitane Group Launch €300 Million Nature Fund |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/sustainability/kering-loccitane-group-launch-300-million-nature-fund/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=The Business of Fashion |language=en}}
In 2021, Kering announced that all of its fashion brands would phase out fur by the end of 2022.
In May 2024, Kering partnered with the National University of Singapore to create, via the entity's Center for Governance and Sustainability, a tool for measuring the environmental impact of companies in the Asia-Pacific region. This collaboration seeks to establish a benchmark for measuring the impact of the green strategies of major Asia-Pacific companies.{{Cite web |title=Kering s'engage dans la transition écologique en Asie-Pacifique. |url=https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/business/kering-asie-pacifique-outil-mesure-impact-transition-ecologique-universite-singapour |access-date=15 May 2024 |website=Journal du Luxe}}
See also
References
External links
{{Commons category}}
- {{Official website|https://www.kering.com/}}
- [https://annuaire-entreprises.data.gouv.fr/entreprise/kering-552075020 Kering] – {{Lang|fr|Annuaire des Entreprises}} {{in lang|fr}}
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Category:Luxury brand holding companies
Category:French companies established in 1962
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Category:Companies listed on Euronext Paris
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Category:Multinational companies headquartered in France