Kibber

Kibber is the last village in Spiti on the traditional trade route to Ladakh and Tibet. One of the earliest descriptions is by botanist Thomson based on his expedition in September 1847. The route crosses the Zanskar range through the Parang La (pass) at an altitude of {{cvt|5,578|m|ft|abbr=on}}. It then descends along the Pare Chu (river) to Hanle and the Indus River. Thomson observed that houses in Kibber were constructed of stone, unlike the mud construction used in the rest of Spiti. He noted that farmers had terraced the hillside for {{cvt|90|m|ft|abbr=on}} above Kibber.{{Cite book |last=Thomson |first=Thomas |title=Western Himalayas and Tibet |publisher=Reeve and Co. |year=1852 |location=London |chapter=Chapter V}}

In earlier times, annual trade fairs were held in Kibber and other locations in Spiti. Traders would come from Tibet, Ladakh, Chamba and Kullu to barter their wares. With the closing of the Indo-Tibet border, these fairs have lost their historical purpose.{{rp|page=59}}

Kibber Khas is located on a limestone cliff on the left bank of the Spiti River. With an area of {{cvt|465.2|ha|acres|abbr=on}} in an arid cold desert at {{cvt|4270|m|ft|abbr=on}}, Kibber is about {{cvt|620|m|ft|abbr=on}} higher than Kaza.{{Rp|page=222}} It is {{cvt|19|km|mi|abbr=on}} from the sub-divisional headquarters Kaza. After passing the Kye Monastery, the road from Kaza climbs steeply up a narrow gorge on the left bank of the Puri Lungpa, a tributary of the Spiti, to reach Kibber.{{Cite web |title=Kaza - Kibber route |url=https://www.openstreetmap.org/directions?engine=fossgis_osrm_car&route=32.2244%2C78.0723%3B32.3322%2C78.0086#map=12/32.2781/78.0371&layers=C |access-date=24 Aug 2022 |website=OpenStreetMap}} It is one of the highest villages in the world that is inhabited year round.{{Cite book|last=|first=|title=District Census Handbook: Lahul & Spiti, Himachal -- Village and Town Wise Primary Census Abstract (PCA)|publisher=Directorate of Census Operations, Himachal Pradesh, Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt of India|year=2011|isbn=|series=3 Part XII B|location=}}{{rp|page=62}}

The terrain slopes gently upwards from Kibber towards the northeast until the towering Zanskar Range. The streams in the area have cut deep gorges in the limestone strata. Mountain ranges on all sides provide some protection, and water from the streams is useful for irrigation. Farmers in Kibber are able to grow crops during the summer.

Kibber Khas is a small village located in Spiti sub-division of Lahul and Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh with total 77 families residing. The Kibber Khas village has a population of 366 of which 187 are males while 179 are females as per Population Census 2011.{{Cite book|title=Census of India 2011: District Census Handbook: Lahul & Spiti: Village and Town Directory|publisher=Directorate of Census Operations, Himachal Pradesh|year=2011|volume=Series-03, Part XII-A}}

In Kibber Khas village, the population of children of age 0-6 is 36 which makes up 9.84% of the total population of village. The average Sex Ratio of Kibber Khas village is 957 which is lower than Himachal Pradesh state average of 972. Child Sex Ratio for the Kibber Khas as per census is 565, lower than the Himachal Pradesh average of 909. Kibber Khas village has lower literacy rate compared to Himachal Pradesh. In 2011, the literacy rate of Kibber Khas village was 72.73% compared to 82.80% of Himachal Pradesh. In Kibber Khas, male literacy stood at 82.93% while female literacy rate was 62.65%.{{Cite book|last=|first=|title=District Census Handbook: Lahul & Spiti, Himachal -- Village and Town Wise Primary Census Abstract (PCA)|publisher=Directorate of Census Operations, Himachal Pradesh, Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt of India|year=2011|isbn=|series=3 Part XII B|location=}}{{rp|pages=98,100–101}}

Kibber has a civil dispensary, a high school, a post office, a telegraph office and a community TV set.

File:Kibber Agri Spiti Himachal Jun18 D72 7258.jpg

File:Women_Hoeing_Barley_Chicham_Spiti_Jun18_D72_7456.jpg

The Gram Panchayat of Kibber or Kibber Gram Panchayat is a government office and local self-government body that governs the villages of Kibber Khas, Kee, Chicham, Gete and Tashigang. Kibber is located in the Development Block Spiti of the District Lahaul Spiti.{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=|title=List of PRIs |url=https://hppanchayat.nic.in/PDF/Names%20of%20Gram%20Panchyats%203226%20Final.pdf |archive-url=|archive-date=|access-date=25 Jan 2021|website=Panchayati Raj Department, HP Govt}}{{Cite journal |last1=Singh |first1=R. |last2=Sharma |first2=R.K. |last3=Babu |first3=S. |last4=Bhatnagar |first4=Y.V. |date=17 Jul 2020 |title=Traditional Ecological Knowledge and Contemporary Changes in the Agro-pastoral System of Upper Spiti Landscape, Indian Trans-Himalayas |journal=Pastoralism |volume=10 |issue=15|doi=10.1186/s13570-020-00169-y |s2cid=220612882 |doi-access=free }}

Traditionally, agriculture has been the mainstay of the economy. As the men were often traveling on trade to Tibet, Punjab and other parts of India, the women did the agricultural work primarily for subsistence.{{rp|pages=22–23}} As Kibber is the base for several treks and for visits to the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary, tourism is now part of the economy. Several homestays have been setup, and locals guide treks.

When botanist Thomson visited Kibber in September 1847, he found terraced and irrigated fields up to {{cvt|300|ft|m|abbr=on}} above the village. Barley was ready for harvest. Hugh Whistler, ornithologist, visited Kibber in July 1922 and observed barley and green peas in the fields.{{Cite journal |last=Whistler |first=H. |date=Oct 1923 |title=A Note on Birds of Spiti", Ibis, pp. |url=https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/j.1474-919X.1923.tb08227.x |journal=Ibis |volume=65 |issue=4 |pages=611–629|doi=10.1111/j.1474-919X.1923.tb08227.x |url-access=subscription }}

In 2011, an area of {{cvt|389.2|ha|acres|abbr=on}} of Kibber formed pastures for grazing. This amounted to 83.7% of the {{cvt|465.2|ha|acres|abbr=on}} area of the village. Only 11.3% of the land was used for agriculture, with 85.3% of this being irrigated. Barley and pulses including black peas and green peas are the major crops. With the opening of roads, there is a shift to cash crops.{{rp|pages=22–23,238–239}}

• Airport:
• Shimla Airport, the nearest airport with scheduled flights, is 436 km away in the south.
• Rangrik Airport, the proposed airport, will be 20 km away.[https://www.hptourtravel.com/traveliq/airports-in-himachal-pradesh/ Airports in HP], accessed 21 Apr 2025.

• Roads:
• NH-505: Kibber is located {{cvt|19|km|mi|abbr=on}} from Kaza. A bus service connects them during the summer months.{{Cite web |last=District Lahaul and Spiti |date=18 Aug 2022 |title=Tourist Places in Spiti |url=https://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/tourist-places-in-spiti/ |access-date=23 Aug 2022 |website=Government of Himachal Pradesh}} Travellers coming from Manali or Lahaul on NH-505 over the Kunzum La can reach Kibber without going to Kaza. After passing Losar and Hanle, NH-505 crosses a bridge from the left bank of the Spiti River {{convert|3|km|mi|abbr=on}} after Kialto village. Just before the bridge, a minor road continues on the left bank to reach Kibber after a distance of {{convert|23|km|mi|abbr=on}}.{{Cite web |title=NH-505 (Kialto bridge) - Kibber route |url=https://www.openstreetmap.org/directions?engine=fossgis_osrm_car&route=32.43960%2C77.90873%3B32.33203%2C78.00686#map=12/32.4014/77.9550&layers=C |access-date=23 Aug 2022 |website=OpenStreetMap}}

• Kiato-Karzok Road, 125 km long road from Kiato (near Kaza in Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh) through the Takling La Tunnel (5575 m) to Karzok (on shores of Tso Moriri), being constructed by the BRO as fourth alternative route to Ladakh,{{Cite web

| url = https://www.amarujala.com/shimla/kyato-korzok-road-will-connect-himachal-to-ladakh-army-will-have-easy-access-to-china-border-2025-04-21?pageId=1

| title = Kyato-Korzok road will connect Himachal to Ladakh, army will have easy access to China border

| last =

| first =

| website = Amar Ujala

| date = 2025-04-21

| accessdate = 2025-04-22

}} connects Kibber to Ladakh. This road also connects to and partially overlaps with the Hanle_(village)#HKTRHanle-Kaza-Tabo Road"'' (HKT Road) also being constructed by the BRO under [[Indo-China Border Roads (ICBR) scheme.

File:Kanamo Peak South Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7534.jpg

File:Caragana Versicolor Shrubs Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7261.jpg

File:A foraging blue sheep.jpg

File:Woolly hare.JPG

Kibber has several homestays.{{Cite web |last=Anchal |date=31 May 2021 |title=Kibber Village, Spiti Valley – A Detailed Travel Guide: Where to Stay in Kibber |url=https://devilonwheels.com/kibber-village-spiti-valley-a-detailed-travel-guide/#Where_to_Stay_in_Kibber |access-date=25 Aug 2022 |website=Devil on Wheels}} The nearest hotels are in Kaza.

Kibber has a small gompa. The well-known Kye Gompa is en route from Kaza to Kibber. The nearby village of Gete has a chorten on a cliff overlooking the Kye Gompa about {{cvt|320|m|ft|abbr=on}} below.{{Cite web |title=Gete chorten |url=https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/9975018263 |access-date=24 Aug 2022 |website=OpenStreetMap}}

Kibber is a base for climbing the nearby {{cvt|5,998|m|ft|abbr=on}} Kanamo Peak. The name Kanamo means either "mountain of good omen" or "white hostess (lady)". The trek is rated as an "easy ridge walk with scree on the lower slopes" by Indian mountaineer Harish Kapadia. The trek from Kibber takes 2–3 days. The season for this trek is late June to the end of September.{{rp|page=143}}

The trail over the {{cvt|5,578|m|ft|abbr=on}} Parang La to Ladakh starts from Kibber. This strenuous trek takes about 5 days to cross the Parang La and another 5 days to descend to Karzok on the shore of Tso Moriri in Ladakh. The total distance is about {{cvt|92|km|mi|abbr=on}}.{{Cite book |last=Kapadia |first=H. |title=Trekking and Climbing in the Indian Himalaya: 25 adventure treks into the mighty Himalaya |publisher=Stackpole Books |year=2001 |isbn=0-8117-2953-2}}{{rp|pages=139–142}}

{{anchor | KWLS}}

The Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary was established on 1st Nov 1999 with an area of {{Cvt|1400|sqkm|sqmi|abbr=on}}. On 7th Apr 2013, the area was increased to {{cvt|2,220.12|sqkm|sqmi|abbr=on}}. The elevation range of this sanctuary is {{cvt|3,600-6,800|m|ft|abbr=on}} above mean sea level.{{Cite journal |last=Principal Secretary (Forests) |date=7 Apr 2013 |title=Notification No. FFE-B-F(6)-11/2005-11/Kibber |url=http://hpforest.nic.in/files/KibberWildLifeSanctuary_A1b.pdf |journal=Department of Forests |publisher=Government of Himachal Pradesh}}

The vegetation here is sparse, Kibber being well above the treeline which extends to {{cvt|3,500|m|ft|abbr=on}}.{{rp|pages=20–21}} The most common shrub is Caragana versicolor, a slow-growing, woody dwarf shrub with multiple stems forming a low canopy.{{Cite journal |last1=Iyengar |first1=S.B. |last2=Bagchi |first2=S. |last3=Barua |first3=D. |last4=Mishra |first4=C. |last5=Sankaran |first5=M. |date=Jul 2017 |title=A dominant dwarf shrub increases diversity of herbaceous plant communities in a Trans-Himalayan rangeland |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/26165321 |journal=Plant Ecology |volume=218 |issue=7 |pages=843–854|doi=10.1007/s11258-017-0734-x |jstor=26165321 |s2cid=21431726 }} Thomson, the English botanist who visited in 1947, observed that the plants found at these altitudes of {{cvt|4,200-4,600|m|ft|abbr=on}} were similar to those found at {{cvt|3,100|m|ft|abbr=on}} in lower parts of the Spiti valley. He attributed this to the extreme aridity of the climate and the protection afforded to the Kibber area by the lofty mountain ranges on all sides.

In a recent study, over 70 species of plants were identified in this sanctuary, compared to about 9,000 species in the whole of the Himalayas.{{Cite journal |last1=Kumar |first1=R. |last2=Verma |first2=R.K. |display-authors=1 |date=1 Dec 2020 |title=Diversity of Herbs in Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary of Distt. Lahaul and Spiti, Himachal Pradesh |journal=Biological Forum |volume=12 |issue=2 |pages=1–12}} Several plants used in the traditional Tibetan medical system, also known as Sowa-Rigpa, are found here. Eight rare and endangered medicinal plant species have been identified in this sanctuary. Aconitum rotundifolium, Arnebia euchroma, Ephedra gerardiana, Gentiana kurroo and Dactylorhiza hatagirea are some threatened but medicinally important plants found in here.Kala, C.P. 2005. Indigenous uses, population density, and conservation of threatened medicinal plants in protected areas of Indian Himalayas. Conservation Biology, 19 (2): 368-378.

The Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary (Kibber WLS) is home to the endangered snow leopard (Panthera uncia). The Forest Department of Himachal Pradesh reported 25-30 snow leopards in the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary in 2018.{{Cite web |last=Bodh |first=A. |date=12 Mar 2018 |title=Up to 30 snow leopards in Kibber wildlife sanctuary of Spiti |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/shimla/forest-guard-captures-snow-leopard-family-on-camera-revives-hopes-for-big-cat/articleshow/63261048.cms |access-date=23 Aug 2022 |website=The Times of India}} A survey in 2021 estimated the total population of snow leopards in Himachal at about 73.{{Cite news |date=24 Jan 2021 |title=78 endangered snow leopards found in HP in first population assessment |work=The Pioneer (India) |url=https://www.dailypioneer.com/2021/state-editions/78-endangered-snow-leopards-found-in-hp-in-first-population-assessment.html |access-date=24 Aug 2022}}

Conservation of snow leopards is a priority. The Himalayan Snow Leopard Research Centre in Kibber village was setup in collaboration with the Nature Conservation Foundation, Mysore with the goal of instituting and encouraging focused short and long-term studies. Snow leopard sighting tours are popular in winter.{{Cite web|last=Khurana|first=Sanjay|date=2022-02-21|title=Spotting Snow Leopards Of Kibber (in Spiti Valley)|language=en-US|work=Raacho Trekkers|url=https://raachotrekkers.com/spotting-snow-leopards-of-kibber/|access-date=2023-12-14}} These result in noise and pollution of many vehicles. In 2021, the Spiti district administration banned such car rallies in Kibber and other areas favoured by snow leopards.{{Cite news |last=Sharma |first=S. |date=9 Feb 2021 |title=Spiti admin bans car rallies in snow leopard habitats |work=The Times of India |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/shimla/spiti-admin-bans-car-rallies-in-snow-leopard-habitats/articleshow/80756731.cms |access-date=25 Aug 2022}} The majority of snow leopards in Himachal were found outside protected areas, indicating that the local people are active in conservation of these big cats.

Other big animals found in the Wildlife Sanctuary are bharal (Psedois nayaur), ibex (Capra sibirica) Himalayan wolf (Canis lupus chanco) and red fox (Vulpes vulpes). The bharal and ibex are prey for snow leopards.{{Cite news |last=Bodh |first=A. |date=28 Jan 2020 |title=Himachal Pradesh: Lahaul-Spiti residents help save Tangrol from poaching |work=The Times of India |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/shimla/himalayan-ibex-numbers-increasing-in-lahaul-spiti/articleshow/73677018.cms |access-date=24 Aug 2022}}

File:Yellow Billed Chough Kibber Jun18 DSC00094.jpg

File:Black Redstart F Kibber Spiti Jun18 DSC00090.jpg

Owing to the sparse vegetation and the extreme winters, fewer birds are found in Spiti compared to the lower Himalayas and the plains of India. In July 1922, the English police officer and ornithologist Hugh Whistler made a short trip from Lahaul down the upper Spiti River. He reached Kibber (Kibar) and Kye Monastery before turning back. During his trip, he collected over 30 species of birds. Of these, about 20 were from Kibber and the area above (now the Kibber WLS). Species collected by Whistler around Kibber included a number of songbirds: several rosefinches, mountain finches and snow finches, redstarts, larks, wrens, house sparrows and martins. Larger birds included a kestrel, lammergeier and ruddy shelducks. Snow pigeons, snow cocks and a griffon were found above Kibber from {{cvt|4,575-5,185|m|ft|abbr=on}}. Alpine choughs were common.

Most of the species reported by Whistler were also observed by the American zoologist Walter Koelz during his trip down the Spiti river in September 1933. Koelz did not explore the Kibber locality, though.{{Cite journal |last=Koelz |first=W. |date=Jan 1937 |title=IV.—Notes on the Birds of Spiti, a Himalayan Province of the Punjab |url=https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1474-919X.1937.tb02164.x |journal=Ibis |volume=79 |issue=1 |pages=86–104|doi=10.1111/j.1474-919X.1937.tb02164.x |url-access=subscription }}

The eBird.org website, used by birding enthusiasts to record sightings, lists 64 species sighted in Kibber village over the past several years. The most frequently seen species: yellow-billed or alpine chough and red-billed chough; snow finches, mountain finches; house sparrow and russet sparrow; black redstart and white-capped redstart; snow pigeon and hill pigeon; horned lark; Himalayan griffon. Most of the species observed 100 years ago by Whistler are in these eBird checklists.{{Cite web |title=Kibber Village, Spiti |url=https://ebird.org/hotspot/L3118485?yr=all&m=&rank=hc |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220827130327/https://ebird.org/hotspot/L3118485?yr=all&m=&rank=hc&hs_sortBy=count&hs_o=desc |archive-date=27 Aug 2022 |access-date=27 Aug 2022 |website=eBird}}

File:New Gompa Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7487.jpg|New Gompa, Kibber (ca. Jun '18)

File:Kibber-20-traditionelles Haus-gje.jpg|Traditional building in Kibber

File:Purple Wildflowers Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7356.jpg|Oxytropis spp. in arid soil (ca. Jun '18)

File:Purple Wildflower Kibber Spiti Jun18 DSC00088.jpg|Purple geranium

File:Thorny Rose Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7399.jpg|Thorny rose in arid soil (ca. Jun '18)

File:Thistle Kibber Himachal Jun18 D72 7387.jpg|Thomson's thistle (ca. Jun '18)

File:Brandts Mountain Finch Breeding Kibber Jun18 D72 7363.jpg|Brandt's mountain finch (breeding plumage)

File:Kanamo Peaks Southwest Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7743.jpg|Terrain above Kibber to Kanamo Peak

File:Kanamo Peaks South Kibber Spiti Jun18 D72 7523.jpg|Kanamo peaks from the south

File:KeyMonastery topview Spiti Himachal Jun18 D72 7663.jpg|Kye Monastery from Gete Chorten

File:Kibber-02-Anfahrt-gje.jpg|Road from Kaza winding up the gorge

File:Chicham Bridge East Spiti Jun18 D72 7453.jpg|Chicham bridge on road to Lahaul

• Snow leopard
• Key Monastery
• Pin Valley National Park
• Spiti
• Tourism in India

{{Commons category|Kibber}}

{{Commons category|Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary}}

{{Reflist}}

• [http://wikimapia.org/1457593/Kibber-Spiti Wikimapia]

{{Buddhist monasteries in Himachal Pradesh}}

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Category:Buddhist monasteries in Himachal Pradesh

Category:Villages in Lahaul and Spiti district