La Perla (clothing)
{{Short description|London-headquartered Italian lingerie and swimwear maker}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2021}}
{{advert|date=January 2018}}
{{Infobox company
| name = La Perla
| logo = La Perla Logo New.svg
| caption =
| type = Private company
| traded_as =
| genre =
| fate =
| predecessor =
| foundation = 1954
| founder = Ada Masotti
| defunct =
| location_city = London
| location_country = United Kingdom
| locations = 150
| area_served = Worldwide
| key_people = Ada Masotti (Founder) Alberto Masotti (President from 1981 to 2007), Olga Cantelli Masotti (Designer), Anna Masotti (Art Director) Silvio Scaglia {{small|(Chairman)}} {{br}} Nicole Rendone {{small|(Creative Director)}}
| industry = Fashion
| products = Lingerie, beachwear, sleepwear, ready-to-wear, accessories
| production =
| services =
| revenue =
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| equity =
| owner = Tennor Holding BV
| num_employees =
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| divisions =
| subsid =
| homepage = {{URL|www.laperla.com}}
| footnotes =
| intl =
}}
La Perla is a London-headquartered {{Cite web |date=2023-02-16 |title=About us |url=https://laperlafashionholding.com/about/ |access-date=2023-02-16 |website=La Perla Fashion Holding |language=en-US}} Italian lingerie and swimwear maker owned by entrepreneur Lars Windhorst through Tennor Holding B.V.{{cite news|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-laperla-m-a-sapinda/sapinda-buys-lingerie-firm-la-perla-after-fosun-talks-stumble-idUSKCN1GA1NN|title= Sapinda buys lingerie firm La Perla after Fosun talks stumble |website=Reuters.com|date= 26 February 2018 |access-date=26 February 2018|last1= Segreti |first1= Giulia }} The brand was founded by couturière Ada Masotti in Bologna in 1954.{{cite book|author=Valerie Steele|title=Fashion, Italian Style|date=11 March 2003|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=9780300100143|page=89}}
History
=La Perla under Ada Masotti (1954-1981)=
La Perla was founded in 1954 by couturière Ada Masotti in Bologna, Italy. As she developed her products, Masotti, who was trained as a corset-maker,{{cite book |last=Cardinali |first=Isabella |title=La Perla. Lingerie & Desire |date=2012 |publisher=Rizzoli |isbn=978-0847839162 |location=New York City |page=28}} would drape fabric directly on the female body to achieve awareness of line and movement.{{cite news |last1=Gonsalves |first1=Rebecca |date=19 October 2014 |title=What lies beneath La Perla's 60 years of luxury lingerie? |language=en |newspaper=The Independent |agency=ESI Media |location=United Kingdom |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/what-lies-beneath-la-perlas-luxury-lingerie-9804676.html |access-date=31 August 2016}}
In the 1960s, La Perla launched a lingerie line based on colorful, floral and checked patterns alongside the more traditional white, black and nude in line with the fashion of the time. At the same time, it also launched its first collections of bikinis and swimsuits.{{Cite web |last=Hills |first=Megan C. |date=2019-10-25 |title=In pictures: 65 years of La Perla lingerie |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/style/la-perla-lingerie-65th-anniversary-a4235411.html |access-date=2023-02-15 |website=Evening Standard |language=en}}
In the 1970s, the company introduced a silk jersey triangle bra, which allowed for more movement and reflected fashion's preference for a smaller bust.
=Under Alberto Masotti (1981-2007)=
During the underwear boom that characterized the 1980s fashion scene, the company started its international expansion under the guidance of Alberto Masotti, the founder's son. Alberto Masotti took charge of the company in 1981 after he had earned his degree in Medicine from the University of Bologna. Meanwhile his wife, Olga Cantelli Masotti, became creative director for the brand. Olga was hired by Ada Masotti as a designer in 1972.{{Cite web |last=Alexandra Amico |date=2022-02-20 |title=La Perla: the history of luxury lingerie Made in Italy |url=https://italian-traditions.com/perla-history-luxury-lingerie-made-italy/ |access-date=2023-02-15 |language=en-US}} In 1983 La Perla introduced the under-jacket, a lingerie item designed to be visible under the suiting of the era.{{Cite web |last=Hills |first=Megan C. |date=2019-10-25 |title=In pictures: 65 years of La Perla lingerie |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/style/la-perla-lingerie-65th-anniversary-a4235411.html |access-date=2023-06-13 |website=Evening Standard |language=en}} In 1995 Anna Masotti – daughter of Alberto and Olga – was nominated head of communication. During her time in the family business Anna will be the brand ambassador and, in 2004 she will accept, with her father Alberto, the award La Kore (known as the Oscar of fashion) in Taormina, Italy.
In 1985, the company extended its production to men's underwear and beachwear.{{cite magazine |last1=Yotka |first1=Steff |date=24 August 2016 |title=La Perla Has a New Creative Director and a Surprising New Approach to Ready-to-Wear |url=http://www.vogue.com/13468802/la-perla-julia-haart-creative-director |magazine=Vogue |language=en |access-date=31 August 2016 |agency=Condé Nast |archive-date=2 November 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161102060956/http://www.vogue.com/13468802/la-perla-julia-haart-creative-director/ |url-status=dead }}
Ada Masotti also created La Perla Maison, a collection featuring a range of handmade garments with embroidered inserts.{{cite web |publisher=YouTube|title=La Perla Maison Collection |url= https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cugIwVblzMo |access-date=31 August 2016|date=9 October 2015}} In 1994, La Perla launched the Sculpture bra, signaling a shift in the brand's styling.{{cite web|publisher=Lycra|title=La Perla Sculpture with Lycra Black fiber|url=http://www2.lycra.com/it_it/webpage.aspx?id=491&contentid=150&cat=2&web=8&pg=3|access-date=31 August 2016|date=28 September 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160405211824/http://www2.lycra.com/it_it/webpage.aspx?id=491|archive-date=5 April 2016|url-status=dead}}
In 2000, Steinunn Sigurdardóttir became the Creative Director of La Perla's Ready-to-Wear. She introduced new fabrics and swimsuits.Sigurðardóttir, Steinunn. "Steinunn Sigurðardóttir." Interview by Sigríður Sigurðardóttir, Gunnar Hilmarsson, and Páll Hjaltason. Sjónþing Gerðubergs 18 March 2006: n. pag. Print. In 2006, actor Daniel Craig wore a pair of Grigioperla swimming trunks in 007 Casino Royale film.{{cite web |work=The Telegraph|first=Chris|last=Bell|title=We've been collecting you, Mr Bond… |url= https://www.telegraph.co.uk/film/james-bond-spectre/most-valuable-collectibles-props/ |access-date=31 August 2016|date=19 October 2015}} Later, Christie's organized a special auction celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first Bond film, and the La Perla trunks were sold for £44,450 in 2012.
In 2007, La Perla launched the Cage Bustier worn by Victoria Beckham in the video of "Headlines", the Spice Girls' reunion song. A capsule Cage collection was later launched, including the Cage top, which was worn by Beyoncé for her 2014 Grammy Awards performance.{{cite news|first=Laura|last=Tortora|url=http://www.vogue.it/trends/shop-in-the-shops/2014/02/la-perla-reopening|agency=Condé Nast|publisher=Vogue Italia|title=La Perla reopening|date=17 February 2014|access-date=31 August 2016}}{{cite web|url=http://www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com/2014/01/27/beyonce-knowles-la-perla-2014-grammy-awards-performance/|publisher=Red Carpet Fashion Awards|title=Beyonce Knowles in La Perla – 2014 Grammy Awards Performance|date=27 January 2014|access-date=31 August 2016}} In 2011, La Perla collaborated with French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier.{{cite news|url=http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/112183-la-perlas-jean-paul-gaultier-collection-createur-presentation/|publisher=The Fashion Spot|title=La Perla's Jean Paul Gaultier Collection Createur Presentation|date=14 December 2010|access-date=31 August 2016}} That same year, La Perla entered the shapewear sector with ShapeCouture, featuring distinctive tailored cuts, tulle inserts and openwork finishes.{{cite web|url= https://www.drapersonline.com/news/la-perla-to-launch-shapewear/5016052.article |publisher=Drapers|title=La Perla to launch shapewear|date=11 August 2010|access-date=31 August 2016|first=Eve|last=Oxberry}}
= Changes in ownership (2008-2018) =
In October 2008, La Perla was sold to JH Partners, a San Francisco-based private equity firm focused on investments in services companies and luxury brands.{{cite news |last1=Binnie |first1=Isla |date=4 June 2013 |title=Italian entrepreneur Scaglia bags La Perla at auction |language=en |work=Reuters |agency=Thomson Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/laperla-auction-idUSL5N0EG1ZN20130604 |access-date=31 August 2016}}
In June 2013, Italian entrepreneur Silvio Scaglia and Pacific Global Management purchased La Perla at an auction for €69 million ($90 million). Following the acquisition, the company was relaunched with a development strategy aimed at consolidating the identity of the brand.
In May 2014, the brand faced complaints following the use of mannequins depicting visible ribs and concave stomachs in its New York store. The mannequins were later removed.{{Cite news |date=2014-05-14 |title=Lingerie label La Perla removes skinny mannequin display |language=en-GB |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/newsbeat-27406377 |access-date=2023-02-15}} In June 2014, La Perla held the first menswear catwalk show at Pitti Uomo in Florence, presenting a loungewear and Beachwear collection.
In December 2017, the Chinese conglomerate Fosun International entered talks to acquire the company. In January 2018, the talks fell through following Fosun's intentions to move production to China. In February 2018, the Sapinda Group of Lars Windhorst acquired the company. Following the acquisition, Windhorst announced Sapinda's pledge to maintain production at the company's existing plants in Italy and Portugal. Following the acquisition, the company was again relaunched with a new development strategy. In the same year, La Perla launched a made-to-measure collection at its flagship stores, incorporating made-to-order lingerie.{{cite magazine|url=http://www.instyle.com/news/la-perla-launches-bras-made-24k-gold-thread|title=La Perla Launches Bras Made with 24K Gold Thread|date=24 December 2014|access-date=31 August 2016|magazine=InStyle}}{{Cite web |last=Shaw |first=Catherine |date=2015-10-29 |title=La Perla's latest Roberto Baciocchi-designed emporium opens in Hong Kong |url=https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/la-perla-open-their-new-flagship-store-in-hong-kong |access-date=2023-02-15 |website=wallpaper.com |language=en}}
In 2015, La Perla's first Atelier collection was shown during Couture Fashion Week in Paris; with this being the brand's first runway show there.{{cite magazine|first=Scarlett|last=Kilcooley-O'Halloran|agency=Condé Nast|magazine=Vogue|title=La Perla: Luxury in the Making |url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/la-perla-vintage-campaign-imagery-interview-design-team-nick-tacchi |access-date=31 August 2016|date=20 February 2015}}{{cite web|url=https://www.ikonlondonmagazine.com/la-perla-second-skin-launch-party/ |title=La Perla Second Skin Launch Party – London|publisher=Ikon London Magazine|first=Tamara|last=Orlova-Alvarez | date=18 October 2018|access-date=19 October 2018}}
Julia Haart was appointed creative director of La Perla in 2016 and held the role for a year, after working with the brand on accessories collaborations for two seasons. The brand's creative director and Chief Design Officer is Italian-American designer Nicole Rendone, who joined La Perla in 2021. Left in 2023{{cite news|first=Catherine|last=Shaw |publisher=Wallpaper|title=La Perla's latest Roberto Baciocchi-designed emporium opens in Hong Kong |url=http://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/la-perla-open-their-new-flagship-store-in-hong-kong |access-date=31 August 2016|date=29 October 2015}}
Publications
In 1997, collaborations with Italian photographer Marino Parisotto resulted in the publication of a photographic volume, Senso, portraying new La Perla styles.{{cite news| language=es |work=El País|title=Parisotto busca el arte de la lencería |url=http://elpais.com/diario/1998/04/10/cultura/892159204_850215.html |access-date=31 August 2016|date=10 April 1998}} Senso was dedicated to the world of corsetry seen through the female gaze.
In 2012, Rizzoli New York City published La Perla. Lingerie & Desire, the first monographic book dedicated to the brand and its evolution over almost sixty years. Some chapters are dedicated to the history of the La Perla products, marketing (the origins, the 1960s, the 1970s, the 1980s and the 1990s) and advertorial images, while others are linked to "symbolic aesthetic concepts" such as Black, White, Body, Inspirations, Precious and Eros.{{cite web |publisher=Rizzoli|title=La Perla: Lingerie and Desire |url=http://www.rizzoliusa.com/book.php?isbn=9780847839162 |access-date=31 August 2016|date=30 October 2012}}
References
{{reflist|24em}}
{{Portal bar|Fashion|Italy|Companies}}
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Category:Clothing brands of Italy
Category:Clothing retailers of Italy
Category:Fashion accessory brands
Category:Swimwear manufacturers
Category:Companies based in Bologna
Category:Clothing companies established in 1954