Magnus Midtbø
{{Short description|Norwegian rock climber}}
{{For|the Norwegian politician|Magnus Midtbø (politician)}}
{{Infobox climber
| name = Magnus Rognan Midtbø
| image = Magnus Midtbø Innsbruck 2010.JPG
| image_size = 200px
| caption = Midtbø in 2010
| nationality =
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1988|9|18|df=y}}
| birth_place = Bergen, Norway
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation =
| height = 173 cm
| weight = 71 kg
| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|
| highestgrade =
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9a+|link=no}}{{cite web | magazine=Desnivel | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/dani-moreno-encadena-ali-hulk-extension-total-sit-start-y-la-deja-en-9a/ | title=Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a | first=Isaac |last=Fernandez | date=15 May 2023 | accessdate=16 August 2023 | language=es | trans-title=es}}{{Cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616114147/https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/video_magnus_midtboe_climbs_9b-58139 | archive-date=June 16, 2019 |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58139 |title=Video: Magnus Midtboe climbs 9b |author=Björn Pohl |publisher=UK Climbing |date=October 2010 |accessdate=21 April 2013}}
| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8c+|link=no}}{{Cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180622071542/http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/magnus-midtbo-onsights-8c-at-rodellar-in-spain.html | archive-date=June 22, 2018 |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40798 |title=Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain |date=18 April 2013 |publisher=Planetmountain |accessdate=18 April 2013}}
| highestboulder = {{boulder grade|8B+}}
| knownfor =
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| updated = 16 June 2019
| medaltemplates =
{{MedalCompetition|World Games}}
{{MedalBronze|2013 Cali|Lead}}
{{Medal|Competition|World Cup (Individual Legs)}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2011 Chamonix Leg|Lead}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2012 Kranj Leg|Lead}}
}}
{{Infobox YouTube personality
| name = Magnus Midtbø
| channel_handle = magmidt
| channel_display_name = Magnus Midtbø
| years_active = 2011–present
| genre = Climbing, Vlog, Sport
| subscribers = 2.81 million
| views = 522.6 million{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/@magmidt/about | title=Magnus Midtbø - YouTube | website=YouTube }}
| silver_year = 2018{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O77nbpbihJk&ab_channel=MagnusMidtb%C3%B8 | title=100 Boulders in One Session - 100K subs special | website=YouTube | date=28 December 2018 }}
| silver_button = yes
| gold_year = 2021{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jozh3R2YLXA&ab_channel=MagnusMidtb%C3%B8 | title=Climbing with Adam Ondra - the World's Best Climber | website=YouTube | date=28 October 2021 }}
| gold_button = yes
| stats_update = February 26, 2025
}}
Magnus Rognan Midtbø (born 18 September 1988){{cite web| title=Magnus Rognan Midtbø in Store Norske Leksikon | url=https://snl.no/Magnus_Rognan_Midtb%C3%B8 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161023065219/https://snl.no/Magnus_Rognan_Midtb%C3%B8 |archive-date=Oct 23, 2016 }} is a Norwegian rock climber, competition climber, and YouTube video blogger. He was born in Bergen, Norway. He retired from competition climbing in 2017.
Climbing career
= Rock climbing=
Midtbø started climbing in 2000 at 12 years of age after his mother enrolled him in a class. After just one year of climbing, he won the Norwegian Youth Championship, and a year later, in 2002, he on-sighted his first {{Climbing grade|8a}} sport climbing route Øgletryne at the Sageveggen rock wall, near Bergen.{{cite web |author=Tijl |publisher=belclimb.net| title=Magnus Midtbø | url= http://en.belclimb.be/mix/articles/magnus-midtb%C3%B8| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20180929064602/http://en.belclimb.be/mix/articles/magnus-midtb%C3%B8 | archive-date=Sep 29, 2018}}{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190615204657/https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Sageveggen&AscentName=%C3%B8gletryne&AscentType=0 | url=https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Sageveggen&AscentName=%C3%B8gletryne&AscentType=0 | title= Øgletryne Sageveggen | publisher=8a.nu | archive-date=Jun 15, 2019}}{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616103257/https://www.facebook.com/magmidt/photos/a.274265855974789/1107039986030701/?type=3&hc_ref=ARRzcqFuN3QgCEOlmylPl1tXrHShQ5UWaP1nZaAd6vovKDF11EgdfvcTiLPjIlAedAI | archive-date=Jun 16, 2019 | url=https://www.facebook.com/magmidt/photos/a.274265855974789/1107039986030701/?type=3&hc_ref=ARRzcqFuN3QgCEOlmylPl1tXrHShQ5UWaP1nZaAd6vovKDF11EgdfvcTiLPjIlAedAI | publisher=facebook.com | title=The line is blurry. Øgletryne was the first 8a I ever did and now 15 years later it's my first 8a without a rope[...]}}
In August 2010, he completed the route Ali Hulk sit start extension in Rodellar, Spain.{{Cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57561 |title=Magnus Midtbø interview |author=Björn Pohl |publisher=UK Climbing |date=August 2010 |accessdate=11 May 2013}} The first ascent was made by {{ill|Daniel Andrada|fr}} in 2007. The grade was initially proposed at {{Climbing grade|9b|link=no}}, but was later downgraded to 9a+/b, and then further to {{climbing grade|9a}} in 2023.
In May 2013, Midtbø returned to Rodellar to on-sight the sport climbing route Cosi fan tutte which is graded at {{Climbing grade|8c+|link=no}}. {{As of|2013|04}}, the highest-ever climbing grade to be on-sighted is just one grade higher at {{climbing grade|9a}}.
In March 2015, he redpointed Papichulo at Oliana at {{climbing grade|9a+}}.{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/magnus-midtbo-climbs-papichulo-at-oliana.html | title=Magnus Midtbø climbs Papichulo at Oliana | date=23 March 2015 | accessdate=21 April 2024}}
=Competition climbing=
In 2005, Midtbø won the World Youth Championships in Beijing, China.{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190531153437/https://www.whiteout-climbing.de/team/magnus-midtbo | archive-date=May 31, 2019 | url=https://www.whiteout-climbing.de/team/magnus-midtbo | publisher=whiteout-climbing.de | title=Athlet Magnus midtbø}}{{cite web | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190616104705/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar%23!comp=672&cat=15 | archive-date=June 16, 2019 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=672&cat=15 | title=UIAA World Youth Championship - Bejing [sic] (CHN) 2005 - Result: male youth A lead | access-date=June 16, 2019 | url-status=live }} After graduating from high school in 2007, Midtbø moved to Innsbruck, Austria where he trained with other leading competition climbers including David Lama, Jakob Schubert, and Anna Stöhr. Midtbø was particularly impressed by Lama.
- {{cite web | url=https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/17/training-talk-with-magnus-midtbo/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190619155946/https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/17/training-talk-with-magnus-midtbo/ | archive-date=Jun 19, 2019 | title=Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø | date=17 May 2019 | publisher=latticetraining.com}}
- {{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW5LkGOd69Q | publisher=YouTube | title=Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø (It's a BIG one!)| date=10 May 2019 }}
Midtbø retired from competitive climbing in May 2017,{{Cite web |url=https://www.facebook.com/CDNclimbingnews/videos/809103142600082}|title=Retirement announcement|website=Facebook|date=May 2017|accessdate=16 December 2018}} saying: "I still get motivated just by climbing. I think some people need a specific goal, but I’ve never felt like I needed one. It sounds really cheesy, I know. I just love climbing. I love being in the nature. I love the feeling of feeling free, but it is like that you know. I don’t know. I like the lifestyle, I like traveling, I like trying hard, and most of all, I like the feeling of feeling really fit, really strong, the feeling of being able to climb anything."{{cite web |last1=Mitdbo |first1=Magnus |title=NO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS? - Q&A | VLOG #95 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARMHb0XKczA&t=224s |website=Youtube |date=4 December 2017 |accessdate=20 January 2019}}
Media career
Midtbø runs an eponymous YouTube channel, which has over 2.7 million subscribers as of March 2025.{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/user/magmidt88/featured|title = Magnus Midtbø - YouTube|website = YouTube}}
In 2013, Magnus Midtbø participated in a German TV show Der Deutsche Meister (the German Champion) as the international contestant in the Reckstangenklettern (salmon ladder) challenge. Midtbø beat the German contestant.{{cite web | title=Wuppertaler erfolgreich in ARD-Show | date=3 November 2013 | publisher=Westdeutsche Zeitung | url=https://www.wz.de/nrw/wuppertal/wuppertaler-erfolgreich-in-ard-show_aid-29795383 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190615093828/https://www.wz.de/nrw/wuppertal/wuppertaler-erfolgreich-in-ard-show_aid-29795383 | archive-date=June 15, 2019}}{{cite web |publisher=ARD | url=https://www.daserste.de/unterhaltung/show/die-deutschen-meister-2013/sendungen/02112013-gewinner-finale100.html | title=Die Gewinner der Finalshow | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170321210659/https://www.daserste.de/unterhaltung/show/die-deutschen-meister-2013/sendungen/02112013-gewinner-finale100.html | archive-date=March 21, 2017}}
In 2016, Midtbø was criticized for publishing a picture of himself hanging off the Trolltunga rock formation in Norway. He was wearing a safety harness but local police officers were concerned the stunt might inspire others to replicate it without taking proper safety precautions.{{cite web | url=https://www.thelocal.no/20160802/norway-climber-slammed-for-trolltunga-stunt | title=Norway climber slammed for Trolltunga stunt| date=2 August 2016}}{{cite web | url=https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/trolltunga-stuntet_-_-mange-mente-jeg-var-gal-og-dum-1.13083147 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160817192052/https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/trolltunga-stuntet_-_-mange-mente-jeg-var-gal-og-dum-1.13083147 | title=Mange mente jeg var gal og dum (Many thought I was crazy and stupid) | date=11 August 2016 | archive-date=Aug 17, 2016 | publisher=NRK}}{{cite web | url=https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/her-henger-magnus-_27_-fra-trolltunga-1.13065092 | title=Her henger Magnus (27) fra Trolltunga (Here, Magnus (27) hangs from Trolltunga) | date=30 July 2016 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160817192052/https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/trolltunga-stuntet_-_-mange-mente-jeg-var-gal-og-dum-1.13083147 | archive-date=Aug 17, 2016 | publisher=NRK}}
In January 2020, Magnus Midtbø represented Team Europe in American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World.{{cite web | url=https://www.americanninjawarriornation.com/2020/1/24/21080266/get-to-know-the-ninja-warriors-of-team-europe-usa-vs-the-world-2020 | title=Get to Know the Ninja Warriors of Team Europe | date=24 January 2020 | publisher=American Ninja Warrior Nation | archive-url=https://archive.today/20200207121554/https://www.americanninjawarriornation.com/2020/1/24/21080266/get-to-know-the-ninja-warriors-of-team-europe-usa-vs-the-world-2020 | archive-date=February 7, 2020 | access-date=February 7, 2020 | url-status=live }}
In 2022, Magnus uploaded one of his most viral videos where he documented his experience free solo climbing with Alex Honnold.{{Cite web |last=Redaktion |date=2022-06-19 |title=Alex Honnold takes Magnus Midtbo to free solo climbing |url=https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/alex-honnold-brings-magnus-midtbo-to-free-solo-climbing/ |access-date=2024-05-27 |website=Lacrux Klettermagazin |language=en}}
Personal life
His sister, Hannah Midtbø (born 1990), is also a professional climber. She won the Nordic Championships (NM) in the lead climbing discipline in 2006 and has been a bouldering competitor at various IFSC World Cups and European Championships.{{cite web | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=athlete&id=6522&cat=5 | title=Hannah Midtboe (IFSC profile) | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181011133454/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=athlete&id=6522&cat=5 | archive-date=Oct 11, 2018}}
Rankings
| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101207041549/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&all=1&person=5800&cat=1
| archive-date=Dec 7, 2010
| url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&all=1&person=5800&cat=1
| url-status=dead
| title=IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - All Results (2010)}}
| url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=5800&cat=1
| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120727230514/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=5800&cat=1
| archive-date=Jul 27, 2012
| url-status=dead
| title=IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - Best Results (2012)}}
| url=http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/about-me
| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161113080437/http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/about-me
| archive-date=Nov 13, 2016
| url-status=dead
| last1=Mitdbo |first1=Magnus
| title=About Me (2012)}}
= World Games =
World Games record:
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" width = "55" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" width = "55" | 2013 |
| align="left" | Lead
| style="background: #cc9966;" | 3 |
= Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup =
== Lead ==
= USA Climbing =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2010{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170307051840/https://climbingnarc.com/2010/01/2010-scs-open-national-championship-results/ | url=https://climbingnarc.com/2010/01/2010-scs-open-national-championship-results/ | title=2010 SCS Open National Championship Results | archive-date=Mar 7, 2017 | url-status=dead }} |
| align="left" | Lead
| style="background: gold;" | 1 | style="background: gold;" | 1 |
= IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships =
IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline |
| align="left" | Lead
| style="background: gold;" | 1 |
= Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup / Series =
== Lead ==
European Youth Cup Winner: 2005,{{cite web | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190616112107/https://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html%23!cat=ICC_M_A&cup=05_EYC | archive-date=June 16, 2019 | url=https://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html#!cat=ICC_M_A&cup=05_EYC | title=European Youth Cup 2005: male youth A lead | access-date=June 15, 2019 | url-status=live }} 2006,{{cite web | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190616112643/https://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html%23!cat=ICC_M_J&cup=06_EYC | archive-date=June 16, 2019 | url=https://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html#!cat=ICC_M_J&cup=06_EYC | title=European Youth Cup 2006: male juniors lead | access-date=June 15, 2019 | url-status=live }} 2007{{cite web | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190616112803/https://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html%23!cat=ICC_M_J&cup=07_EYC | archive-date=June 16, 2019 | url=https://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html#!cat=ICC_M_J&cup=07_EYC | title=European Youth Series 2007: male juniors lead | access-date=June 15, 2019 | url-status=live }}
| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;" | |||||
| width = "55" | Season
! width = "55" | Category ! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold ! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver ! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze ! width = "55" | Total | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2003 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2004 | Youth A | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2005 | Youth A | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2006 | Junior | 3 | 3 | ||
| 2007 | Junior | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
| colspan=2 |Total | 11 | 4 | 0 | 15 |
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
- [https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/athlete/3058/magnus-midtbo IFSC Profile]
- [http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=2213 8a.nu Profile]
- [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_gSotrFVZ_PiAxo3fTQVuQ YouTube Channel]
- [https://www.instagram.com/magmidt/ Instagram profile]
{{Climbing navbox}}
{{Portal bar|Climbing}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Midtbo, Magnus}}
Category:Norwegian rock climbers
Category:Sportspeople from Bergen
Category:World Games bronze medalists for Norway
Category:World Games medalists in sport climbing
Category:Norwegian video bloggers
Category:21st-century Norwegian people