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Mount Forbes

{{for|the locality in Australia|Mount Forbes, Queensland}}

{{short description|Mountain in Banff NP, Canada}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name = Mount Forbes

| photo = Mt. Forbes in Alpenglow, from Arctomys Peak.jpg

| photo_caption = Mount Forbes in alpenglow, from Arctomys Peak

| elevation_m = 3612

| elevation_ref = {{cite peakfinder|id=496|name=Mount Forbes|access-date=2019-08-19}}

| prominence_m = 1629

| prominence_ref = {{cite bivouac|id=5|name=Mount Forbes|access-date=2009-01-01}}

| range = Canadian Rockies

| parent_peak = Mount Columbia (3747 m)

| listing = {{unbulleted list

|Mountains of Alberta

|Canada highest major peaks 35th

|Canada prominent peaks 94th

}}

| country = Canada | region_type = Province | region = Alberta

| part_type = Protected area | part = Banff National Park

| map = Canada Alberta

| map_size = 250

| map_caption = Location in SW Alberta

| label_position = right

| coordinates = {{coord|51|51|35|N|116|55|54|W|type:mountain_region:CA_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| coordinates_ref = {{cite cgndb|id=IAFDS|name=Mount Forbes|access-date=2019-08-19}}

| topo = NTS {{Canada NTS Map Sheet|82|N|15}}

| first_ascent = 10 August 1902 by Christian and Hans Kaufmann, J. Norman Collie, James Outram, et al.

| easiest_route = rock/snow climb

}}

Mount Forbes is the seventh tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies and the tallest within the boundaries of Banff National Park. It is located in southwestern Alberta, {{convert|18|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} southwest of the Saskatchewan River Crossing in Banff. The mountain was named by James Hector in 1859 after Edward Forbes, Hector's natural history professor at the University of Edinburgh during the mid-19th century.

Mount Forbes was first ascended on August 10, 1902, by the Swiss brothers Christian and Hans Kaufmann, guiding the British gentlemen J. Norman Collie, James Outram, Hugh E.M. Stutfield, George M. Weed, and Herman Woolley. The shark tooth-shaped peak can be "predominantly seen from many parts of the range. The normal route, the NW face and the N Ridge all are well worth climbing."{{cite book |last1=Putnam |first1=William L. |last2=Kruszyna |first2=Robert |date=1985 |title=Climber's Guide The Rocky Mountains of Canada North |location=Banff, AB and New York |publisher=Alpine Club of Canada and American Alpine Club |page=58 |isbn=0-930410-19-X}}

__NOTOC__

Climbing routes

There are several climbing routes for Mount Forbes, including:

  • West Ridge (Normal Route) III
  • North-West Face Variation III
  • West Ridge of Rosita III 5.3

The most common approach route for Mount Forbes is from the Alberta side, starting at the Icefields Parkway. Park at the Glacier Lake trailhead (at the end of a short unnamed road {{convert|1.1|km|mi}} west of the David Thompson Highway turn-off), and follow the trail to the head of Glacier Lake ({{convert|13|km|mi|0|abbr=on}}). From there follow the old trail up the north bank of the Glacier River to the large open basin at the head of the river. Ford the Glacier river. Find the climbers trail ascending the timbered knob at the south end of the basin. Follow this trail as it climbs steeply up the knob then crosses to the west and climbs improbably up toward cliffs to the west. Eventually you climb above the canyon and then the drop slightly to the edge of the Mons Glacier. Camps can be made here or at the foot of the North Glacier of Mt. Forbes. From here, the peak can be climbed in a reasonable day. The approach takes 4 to 6 hours.

A faster and shorter approach is from the west via recent logging roads starting north of Golden, BC. The 4–6 hour approach mentioned above has become much longer due to deteriorating trails, and also involves a cold river crossing. Many parties take two days using this approach. For a faster approach start on the Bush logging road and follow this until {{convert|68|km|mi|0|abbr=on}}. Here turn right on the Vallenciennes Road to {{convert|13|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} where you follow the left fork up the Mons road. Park just past {{convert|23|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} beside Icefall Brook. From here a trail ascends {{convert|350|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} up a gravel slope, where it traverses north on ledges above the Icefall Canyon. This ledge is on the west side of Mons Peak. After traversing for {{convert|1|km|mi|0|abbr=on}}, the open meadows and moraines below the Mons Glacier are reached. From a camp here Mt. Forbes can be climbed in a day. This approach is {{convert|4|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} long, climbs {{convert|1000|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}, and can be done in 3 to 4 hours.

Gallery

File:Mt. Forbes Aiguille and North Glacier.jpg|Mount Forbes Aiguille and the Forbes' North Glacier

File:Mt. Forbes summit looking NW.jpg|Mount Forbes summit looking northwest

File:Mt. Forbes summit looking West.jpg|Mount Forbes summit looking west

File:Mt. Forbes summit looking SW.jpg|Mount Forbes' summit looking southwest

File:Mt. Forbes summit looking SE.jpg|Mount Forbes' summit looking southeast

Mt. Forbes Buttress and 2 US Climbers.jpg|Mount Forbes Buttress & 2 US Climbers

Mount Forbes.jpg|Mount Forbes (aerial shot over Alberta)

Mt. Forbes Summit From Icefields Parkway.jpg|Mount Forbes from the Icefields Parkway

See also

References

{{reflist|refs=

{{cite map|publisher=Gem Trek Publishing|title=Bow Lake and Saskatchewan Crossing

|date=2000|scale=1:70,000|isbn=1-895526-10-8|url=https://www.gemtrek.com/maps/bow-lake-map/|access-date=2019-08-19}}

{{cite web | title = Place-names of Alberta

| url = https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015070267029&view=1up&seq=56

| publisher = Geographical Names Board of Canada | website = babel.hathitrust.org | access-date = 2019-08-19}}

{{cite book | title = A Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada

| author1 = Thorington, James Monroe | publisher = American Alpine Club | isbn = 978-1376169003

| others = With the collaboration of Putnam, William Lowell

| year = 1966 | orig-year = 1921 | page = 192 | chapter = Bush Pass to Thompson Pass | edition = 6th}}

}}

Further reading

  • {{cite book |last=Birrell|first=Dave |title=50 Roadside Panoramas in the Canadian Rockies |date=2000 |page=43 |publisher=Rocky Mountain Books |isbn=978-0-921102-65-6 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OaB-yf_MJXMC&pg=PA43}}
  • {{cite book |last1=Stutfield |first1=Hugh E. M. |last2=Collie |first2=J. Norman |title=Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies |date=2008 |pages=37,111,146,153 |publisher=Rocky Mountain Books |isbn=978-1-897522-06-6 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Gh1pjh53IjgC&pg=PA153}}

External links

  • [https://www.flickr.com/photos/7129939@N02/39019805591/in/album-72157690303629134/ Mount Forbes photo] Flickr
  • [https://pbase.com/nolock/image/143384811 Mount Forbes aerial photo] PBase

{{Canadian Rockies|state=collapsed}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Forbes}}

Category:Three-thousanders of Alberta

Category:Mountains of Banff National Park