Mount Kitchener

{{short description|Mountain in Alberta, Canada}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name = Mount Kitchener

| photo = mtkitchener.jpg

| photo_caption = Mt. Kitchener at dawn from the Icefields Parkway

| elevation_m = 3505

| elevation_ref = {{cite crdb|id=735| name=Mount Kitchener |access-date= 2007-08-31}}

| prominence_m = 280

| prominence_ref = {{cite bivouac|id=25|name=Mount Kitchener|access-date=2013-05-17}}

| range = Winston Churchill Range

| parent_peak =

| listing = Mountains of Alberta

| country = Canada

| region_type = Province

| region = Alberta

| map = Alberta

| map_caption = Location in Alberta

| mapframe = yes

| mapframe-zoom = 8

| mapframe-caption = Interactive map of Mount Kitchener

| coordinates = {{coord|52|12|58|N|117|19|15|W|type:mountain_region:CA-AB_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| coordinates_ref = {{cite cgndb|id=IABQE|name=Mount Kitchener|access-date=2021-03-31}}

| topo_map = NTS {{Canada NTS Map Sheet|83|C|3}}

| first_ascent = 1927 by Alfred J. Ostheimer, guided by Hans Fuhrer

| easiest_route = rock/snow climb

}}

Mount Kitchener is a mountain located within the Columbia Icefield of Jasper National Park, which is part of the Canadian Rockies. The mountain can be seen from the Icefields Parkway (highway 93) near Sunwapta Pass.

Mt. Kitchener was originally named Mount Douglas by J. Norman Collie after David Douglas. In 1916, the mountain was renamed Mount Kitchener, its present-day name, after Lord Kitchener, who had just been killed in World War I.

Climbing

;Routes

  • SouthWest Slopes (Normal Route) I
  • Grand Central Couloir V 5.9
  • Ramp Route V 5.8

;Notable ascents

  • 1975 Grand Central Couloir (V 5.9 WI5 1050m) by Jeff Lowe and Michael Weis (August 1975){{cite journal

| last = Lowe | first = Jeff | author-link = Jeff Lowe | title = Winter Ice Climbing and its Techniques on Kitchener

| department = The Cold Dance Review | journal = American Alpine Journal

| volume = 20 | issue = 50 | pages = 326–333 | publisher = American Alpine Club

| location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1976

| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197632600/The-Cold-Dance-Review-Winter-Ice-Climbing-and-Its-Techniques-on-Kichener

| url-status = | access-date = 2021-03-31}}

Mount K2

Mount K2, elevation 3,090m, was named in 1938 by Rex Gibson (former Alpine Club of Canada president), apparently to signify this as a secondary peak of Mount Kitchener.{{cite crdb|id=704|title=Mount K2|access-date=2020-11-21}}

Climate

Based on the Köppen climate classification, Mount Kitchener is located in a subarctic climate zone with cold, snowy winters, and mild summers.{{cite journal | author = Peel, M. C. |author2=Finlayson, B. L. |author3=McMahon, T. A. | year = 2007 | title = Updated world map of the Köppen−Geiger climate classification | journal = Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. | volume = 11 | pages = 1633–1644 | issn = 1027-5606}} Temperatures can drop below {{Convert|-20|C|F}} with wind chill factors below {{Convert|-30|C|F|abbr=on}}.

Gallery

File:Snow Dome, Forbes, Lyells, Et al from Mt. Kitchener.jpg|View from Mount Kitchener's summit

File:Mount Kitchener north face.jpg|Mount Kitchener's north face

File:Mt Kitchener Summit from Snow Dome Slopes.jpg|Mount Kitchener Summit from Snow Dome

File:The Stutfields (West & East); Mt. Alberta at back.jpg|View to north from Mount Kitchener

File:View of Mt. Kitchener and Mount K2.jpg|View of Mount Kitchener and Mount K2

References

{{reflist|refs=

{{cite opentopomap|Mount Kitchener|52.21728|-117.32162|2021-03-31}}

}}