Steven Meisel
{{short description|American fashion photographer (born 1954)}}
{{use mdy dates|date=September 2022}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Steven Meisel
| image =
| imagesize =
| birth_name =
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1954|6|05}}{{cite web|url=https://www.nyfa.edu/student-resources/names-that-changed-the-fashion-photography-industry-forever/|title=Names that Changed the Fashion Photography Industry Forever|work=New York Film Academy|date=December 24, 2016 }}
| birth_place = New York City, U.S.
| death_place =
| occupation = Fashion photographer
| education = High School of Art and Design
| alma_mater = Parsons School of Design
}}
Steven Meisel (born June 5, 1954) is an American fashion photographer, who obtained popularity and critical acclaim with his work in Vogue and Vogue Italia as well as his photographs of friend Madonna in her 1992 book, Sex. He is now considered one of the most successful fashion photographers in the industry.
He worked regularly for American Vogue (from the 1990s to 2000s), British Vogue (under the editorship of Edward Enninful) and Italian Vogue (from the late 1980s to 2010s).
Early life
Meisel was born in New York.{{Cite book |last1=Alexander |first1=Simon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zwgLma9mJE0C&dq=%22steven+meisel%22+%22born+in+new+york%22&pg=PA174 |title=The Daily Book of Photography: 365 Readings that Teach, Inspire & Entertain |last2=Cooper |first2=Grier |last3=Diller |first3=Bill |last4=Greenberg |first4=David |last5=Hauck |first5=Tom |last6=LaRose |first6=Melissa |last7=Roharik |first7=Matthew |last8=Schmidt |first8=David |last9=Walsh-Newton |first9=Christine |date=September 2010 |publisher=Walter Foster Publishing |isbn=978-1-60058-211-0 |pages=174 |language=en}} He studied at the High School of Art and Design, where he attended different courses but, as affirmed in an interview with Ingrid Sischy for Vogue France, he finally majored in fashion illustration.{{Cite web |title=Steven Meisel biography|date=November 10, 2016 |url=https://fashionelite.com/profile/steven-meisel/|accessdate=May 6, 2023}}
From an early age, Meisel had a deep interest for fashion; he often preferred to sketch models while looking at fashion magazines rather than play with other things and soon enough attended the High School of Art and Design in New York City. Later, he was admitted at the Parsons School of Design, where he majored in fashion illustration and graduated.{{cite web |title=Steven Meisel (American, born 1954) |url=http://www.artnet.com/artists/steven-meisel/ |website=artnet |publisher= |access-date=November 11, 2021}}
Career
One of his first jobs was for fashion designer Halston as an illustrator. Meisel taught illustration part-time at his alma mater, Parsons School of Design. Later on, while working at Women's Wear Daily as an illustrator, he went to Elite Model Management where Oscar Reyes, a booker who liked his illustrations, allowed him to take pictures of some of their models.{{Cite web |title=Steven Meisel is part of the BoF 500 |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/steven-meisel |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=The Business of Fashion|date=November 28, 2022 }} In his spare time, Meisel would photograph models. One was future film star Phoebe Cates. She went to a casting for Seventeen magazine to show her portfolio, which held some of his photography, and the people at Seventeen subsequently contacted Meisel and hired him.{{Cite web |last1=Edelson |first1=Elizabeth Doupnik,Alexandra Steigrad,Lisa Lockwood,Sharon |last2=Doupnik |first2=Elizabeth |last3=Steigrad |first3=Alexandra |last4=Lockwood |first4=Lisa |last5=Edelson |first5=Sharon |date=2016-10-26 |title=Fashion's Busiest Photographers |url=https://wwd.com/eye/people/fashions-busiest-photographers-10679667/ |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=WWD}}{{Cite web |date=2013-03-15 |title=Modapedia del fotografo Steven Meisel |url=https://www.vogue.es/moda/modapedia/fotografos/steven-meisel/90 |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=Vogue España |language=es}}
Meisel worked for many different fashion magazines, most notably Interview and US and Italian Vogue.{{Cite web |date=2022-11-28 |title=Steven Meisel: The Ultimate Autobiography |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/media/steven-meisel-the-ultimate-autobiography/ |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=The Business of Fashion}} His first Vogue cover was for the August 1986 issue of the British edition. For almost three decades, he captured the photographs for each cover and main editorial spread in Italian Vogue.{{Cite magazine |last=Skarda |first=Erin |date=2012-04-02 |title=Steven Meisel - All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons - TIME |magazine=Time |url=https://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2110513_2110629_2110641,00.html |access-date=2023-07-26 |issn=0040-781X}} He also shot most of the covers for Anna Wintour's Vogue from the mid 90s to early 2000s. In 2014, he portrayed 50 models for the 50th anniversary of Vogue Italia.{{Cite web |date=September 12, 2014 |title=Anniversary 50 years of Vogue Italia |url=https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/cover-fashion-stories/2014/09/12/cover-anniversary-50-years-of-vogue-italia/ |access-date=April 4, 2022 |website=Vogue.it}}
The July 2008 issue of Vogue Italia featured only black models, and was entirely photographed by Meisel.{{cite news |last=Mower |first=Sarah |date=July 27, 2008 |title=Fashion world stunned by Vogue for black |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/jul/27/fashion.pressandpublishing |access-date=November 25, 2021}} It was a response to increasing criticism of racism in the fashion industry and became the best-selling issue in the magazine's history. When asked about the issue, Meisel said: "Obviously I feel that fashion is totally racist. The one thing that taking pictures allows you to do is occasionally make a larger statement. After seeing all the shows though I feel it was totally ineffective. I was curious—because it received a lot of publicity—whether it would have any effect on New York, London, Paris, or Milan, and I found that it did not. They still only had one token black girl, maybe two. It’s the same as it always was and that’s the sad thing for me."{{cite web |title=Who Is Steven Meisel? |url=http://032c.com/2008/who-is-steven-meisel/ |access-date=December 13, 2013 |publisher=032c}}
Meisel has contributed photos for the covers of several popular albums and singles, including two RIAA Diamond-certified albums, Madonna's 1984 album Like a Virgin{{cite journal |last=Cross |first=Martha |date=October 12, 1992 |title=Madonna's Magician Steven Meisel |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=oOQCAAAAMBAJ&q=Madonna+like+a+virgin+cover |url-status=live |journal=New York |publisher=New York Media LLC |volume=25 |issue=40 |issn=0028-7369 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220504033253/https://books.google.com/books?id=oOQCAAAAMBAJ&q=Madonna+like+a+virgin+cover |archive-date=May 4, 2022 |access-date=June 18, 2010}} and Mariah Carey's 1995 album Daydream. His work can be seen on the cover of Madonna's singles "Bad Girl" and "Fever",{{Cite web |date=2020-04-15 |title=Madonna sous l'objectif des plus grands photographes |url=https://www.numero.com/fr/musique/madonna-grands-photographes-steven-klein-herb-ritts-mert-and-marcus-bettina-rheims-jean-baptiste-mondino-steven-meisel-bruce-weber |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=Numéro Magazine |language=fr}} and Mariah Carey's single "Fantasy" (simply a different crop of the photo on the cover of the Daydream album).{{Cite book |last=Bronson |first=Fred |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PgGqNrqfrsoC |title=The Billboard Book of Number One Hits |date=2003 |publisher=Billboard Books |isbn=978-0-8230-7677-2 |pages=841}} He also directed the music video for Deborah Harry's single "Sweet and Low" alongside fashion designer Stephen Sprouse.{{Citation needed|date=July 2023}}
=Fashion campaigns=
Meisel has shot for Versace, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana,{{Cite web |date=2017-01-14 |title=Flashback: Classic Dolce & Gabbana campaigns |url=https://www.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/diaporama/flashback-classic-dolce-/34967 |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=Vogue France |language=fr}} Balenciaga,{{Cite news |date=2012-07-06 |title=First Look: Balenciaga Fall Ads |url=https://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a17187/balenciaga-fall-ads-shot-by-steven-meisel/ |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=ELLE}} Loewe,{{Cite web |last=Dazed |date=2018-06-19 |title=Steven Meisel shoots his model clone for new Loewe campaign |url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/40414/1/steven-meisel-loewe-ss19-menswear-paris-jw-anderson-fashion-week |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=Dazed}} Calvin Klein,{{Cite web |last=Dazed |title=Controversial fashion ads |url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/19779/5/controversial-fashion-ads |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=Dazed}} Alberta Ferretti,{{Cite web |last=Salibian |first=Sandra |date=2016-12-05 |title=Alberta Ferretti Taps Steven Meisel for Spring Ad Campaign |url=https://wwd.com/feature/alberta-ferretti-taps-steven-meisel-for-the-spring-2017-ad-campaign-10718807/ |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=WWD}} and Barneys New York.{{Cite news |last=Schiro |first=Anne-Marie |date=1989-03-19 |title=STYLE MAKERS; Steven Meisel - Photographer |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1989/03/19/style/style-makers-steven-meisel-photographer.html |access-date=2023-07-27 |issn=0362-4331}}{{Cite web |date=2019-11-19 |title=Remembering Barneys New York Through Its Iconic Ads |url=https://news.yahoo.com/remembering-barneys-york-iconic-ads-200000898.html |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=Yahoo News}} Since 2004 to 2016, Meisel has shot Prada campaigns each season. Then he moved to Zara. In May 2008, he shot friend Madonna for the cover of Vanity Fair,{{Cite magazine |date=2008-12-12 |title=Photos: Vanity Fair's Year in Pictures, Part One |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/culture/photos/2008/12/yearinphotos_slideshow200812 |access-date=2023-07-26 |magazine=Vanity Fair}}{{Cite magazine |date=2009-11-19 |title=The Decade in Covers: Pick the Best V.F. Cover of 2008 |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2009/11/the-decade-in-covers-pick-the-best-vf-cover-of-2008 |access-date=2023-07-26 |magazine=Vanity Fair}} and later that year he shot her for the 2009 spring campaign by Louis Vuitton.{{Cite web |date=2008-11-13 |title=Material Girl |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/madonna-for-louis-vuitton-ss09 |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=British Vogue}}
He is a close friend of designer Anna Sui, for whom he has also shot several campaigns, even though Sui rarely uses advertising to promote her clothing.{{cite web |url=http://www.ellahoy.es/moda/articulo/los-mejores-fotografos-de-moda-de-la-historia/270111/ |title=Los mejores fotógrafos de moda de la historia |last=Maura |first=Susana |date=January 1, 2017 |website=ellahoy.es |publisher=Ella Hoy |access-date=January 17, 2017 |language=es |trans-title=The Best Photographers in the History of Fashion}}
=Influence=
As one of the most powerful photographers in the fashion industry, Meisel is credited with "discovering" or promoting the careers of many successful models over the last 40 years, including Linda Evangelista,{{cite news |last1=Sharkey |first1=Lauren |title=7 Wonders: Steven Meisel |url=https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2014/11/27/steven-meisel-hits-london/ |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=Wonderland |date= November 27, 2014}} Guinevere Van Seenus,{{cite news |last1=V. |first1=Andrey |title=Steven Meisel |url=https://www.widewalls.ch/artists/steven-meisel |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=Widewalls |date= December 14, 2016}} Karen Elson, Amber Valletta,{{cite news |last1=Blanks |first1=Tim |title=An Exclusive Q&A With Photographer Steven Meisel |url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/an-exclusive-q-a-with-photographer-steven-meisel-1422460551 |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=The Wall Street Journal |date= January 28, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150203072353/https://www.wsj.com/articles/an-exclusive-q-a-with-photographer-steven-meisel-1422460551 |archive-date= February 3, 2015}} Kristen McMenamy, Stella Tennant,{{cite news |last1=Samaha |first1=Barry |title=Model Stella Tennant Dies at Age 50 |url=https://finance.yahoo.com/finance/news/model-stella-tennant-dies-age-171100887.html |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=finance.yahoo.com |date= December 23, 2020}} Raquel Zimmermann, Saskia de Brauw,{{cite news |title=Prada Spring 2013 Campaign |url=https://www.bloginity.com/2012/12/prada-spring-2013-campaign/ |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=Bloginity.com |date= December 19, 2012}} Sasha Pivovarova, Jessica Stam,{{cite news |title=Jessica Stam |url=https://www.russh.com/jessica-stam/ |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=RUSSH |date=29 August 2016}} Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Lexi Boling,{{cite news |last1=Shapiro |first1=Bee |title=The Bad Girl Model Lexi Boling on Her Good Beauty Habits |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/01/fashion/model-lexi-boling-beauty-routine-new-york-fashion-week.html |access-date= November 1, 2021 |work=The New York Times |date= August 30, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161209223000/https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/01/fashion/model-lexi-boling-beauty-routine-new-york-fashion-week.html |archive-date= December 9, 2016}} Iris Strubegger, Lara Stone, Coco Rocha, Natalia Vodianova, Vanessa Axente, Lindsey Wixson, Elise Crombez, Doutzen Kroes and Snejana Onopka.
= Controversies =
Meisel's work often addresses social issues such as racism, addiction, and cultural self-absorption, and the photographer has a history of controversial photoshoots. One example includes an editorial in 2007, where he depicted models in designer outfits being harassed by soldiers, drawing inspiration from the Iraq war. The images were deemed as glamorizing violence and rape. A 2010 article by The Guardian noted that Meisel "clearly considers himself a bit of a provocateur" and questioned his sense of taste and appropriateness.{{Cite news |last=Carter |first=Kate |date=2010-08-19 |title=Fashion's most tasteless moments |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/aug/18/fashions-most-tasteless-moments |access-date=2023-07-27 |issn=0261-3077}} He frequently satirizes the mannerisms and extravagance of the fashion world. One example is the editorial "Makeover Madness," which spanned eighty pages in Vogue Italia in 2005 and depicted models undergoing various body interventions, dressed in couture but wrapped in gauze. Other photoshoots by Meisel have also been met with criticism. In a July 2006 issue of Vogue Italia, he created a controversial photoshoot " described as "a fun take on rehab chic".{{Cite web |date=2011-08-18 |title='A fun take on rehab chic' – brave or sick? - Times Online |url=http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article2265124.ece |access-date=2023-07-27 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110818203207/http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article2265124.ece |archive-date=August 18, 2011 }} A September 2006 photoshoot for the magazine, entitled "State of Emergency", was also criticized for eroticizing torture and police brutality.{{Cite news |last=Saner |first=Emine |date=2007-09-23 |title=A tasteless line in battledress from Vogue |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2007/sep/24/fashion.photography |access-date=2023-07-27 |issn=0261-3077}}
= Books and exhibitions =
In 1992, Meisel collaborated with Madonna to develop the controversial book Sex.{{Cite web |last=Malach |first=Hannah |date=2023-06-29 |title=Christie's to Auction Off Steven Meisel Photographs of Madonna From 1992 Photo Book 'Sex' |url=https://wwd.com/pop-culture/culture-news/madonna-sex-book-auction-christies-steven-meisel-1235704278/ |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=WWD}}
A book collecting some of his photographs, titled Steven Meisel,Meisel, S. [https://www.amazon.de/dp/3570194213 Steven Meisel (Broschiert)] (German website), Teneues Buchverlag, 2003; {{ISBN|3-570-19421-3}}. was published by German teNeues Buchverlag in 2003 and sold out.
In 2014–2015, Phillips held an exhibition called "Role Play" that featured some of the photographic work of Meisel throughout the years, and which took place in the cities of Paris, London, New York, and Miami.{{cite news |last1=Leon |first1=Sarah |title=Steven Meisel Plays Around |url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/steven-meisel-photography-exhibition |access-date=October 31, 2021 |work=W Magazine |date= January 30, 2015}}{{cite news |last1=Westall |first1=Mark |title=NEW: STEVEN MEISEL 'Role Play' a Touring Exhibition from @Phillips |url=https://fadmagazine.com/2014/11/17/new-steven-meisel-role-play-a-touring-exhibition-from-phillips/ |access-date= October 31, 2021 |work=FAD Magazine |date= November 17, 2014}}
In April 2023, it was announced that a new book showcasing the collaborations between Meisel and his longtime muse Linda Evangelista, titled Linda Evangelista Photographed by Steven Meisel, would be released in September 2023 by Phaidon Press.{{cite news |last1=Lockwood |first1=Lisa |title='Linda Evangelista Photographed by Steven Meisel' Will be Published by Phaidon in September |url=https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/linda-evangelista-photographed-steven-meisel-202039655.html |access-date=April 27, 2023 |work=Yahoo Life |date=April 24, 2023}}
Personal life
Meisel is known for being a private figure and rarely gives interviews.{{Cite web |date=2023-03-10 |title=How Steven Meisel Defined Fashion in 1993 |url=https://aperture.org/editorial/how-steven-meisel-defined-fashion-in-1993/ |access-date=2023-07-27 |website=Aperture |language=en-US}}
References
{{Reflist|30em}}
External links
- [http://www.artandcommerce.com/artists/photographers/Steven-Meisel Portfolio at Art+Commerce Agency]
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Category:20th-century American Jews
Category:21st-century American Jews
Category:American fashion photographers
Category:High School of Art and Design alumni