Suru Valley

File:Rock carving karpokhar suru valley.jpg rock carving at Karpokhar near Kartse]]

File:Kartse-Maitreya-Drew.png]]

The Suru Valley was historically ruled from Kartse ({{bo|w=dkar rtse}}, {{coord|34.2672|76.0018|name=Kartse Khar}}), a fort in a branch valley near Sankoo. An inscription names its ruler as Tri-gyal ({{bo|w=k'ri rgyal}}). Tibetologist A. H. Francke believes that the dynasty of Tri-gyals might have been in existence prior to the formation of the Maryul kingdom (in modern Ladakh) in the 10th century.{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|p=48}} However, there is no mention of it in Ladakh Chronicles. When the Maryul kingdom was formed under Lhachen Palgyigon, its extent ran up to the Zoji La pass.{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|p=63}}{{citation |last=Ahmad |first=Zahiruddin |title=The Ancient Frontier of Ladakh |journal=The World Today |date=July 1960 |volume=16 |number=7 |pages=313–318 |jstor=40393242}}{{efn|This would imply that Wakha Rong and Dras valleys (on the route between Zoji La and upper Ladakh) were under Ladakhi control, but Suru, being a side valley of the main route, was treated separately. It was not considered part of "Purig" until the modern period.}}

The principality of Kartse apparently controlled the entire western Ladakh, from Mulbekh and Wanla in the east to Dras in the west, even though the extent of territory would have varied with time. The Tri-gyals were Buddhist and adopted the religion from Kashmir in ancient times. They commissioned a giant Maitreya rock carving in the vicinity of Kartse, and others at Mulbekh and possibly Apati.{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|pp=273–274}}

The conversion of Kashmir to Islam in the 14th century had implications for western Ladakh. Baltistan was invaded during the reign of Sultan Sikandar ({{reign|1394|1416}}),{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|pp=22–23}} and the influence of Islam spread there.{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|p=90}} Zain-ul-Abidin ({{reign|1418|1470}}) raided Ladakh, Guge and Purang (in western Tibet) and collected tribute. The Tri-gyal of Kartse is said to have become his vassal and assisted in the invasions.{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|p=273}}

Islam was introduced into the area from the 16th century onward by preachers traveling through Baltistan.{{sfnp|Gupta, Allegiance and Alienation|2013|p=50}} Around the 16th century, a Muslim chieftaincy connected to Skardu appeared in Purig, first at Sod northeast of Kargil, then with a branch at Chiktan northeast of Namika La.{{sfnp|Devers, Buddhism before First Diffusion?|2020|loc=paragraphs 31–32, note 17}} During the invasion of Ladakh by Mirza Haidar Dughlat in 1532, Sod and Chiktan appear to have submitted, but not Kartse. Joint raids were conducted on Kartse but they failed. The chief or commander of Suru, named "Baghan", is also said to have been killed during one of the raids.{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|p=26}}{{sfnp|Howard, What happened between 1450 and 1550 AD?|1997|pp=130–131}}{{sfnp|Devers, Buddhism before First Diffusion?|2020|loc=note 17}}{{efn|Baghan is described as "a Chui of the provinces of Tibet", which is taken to mean "headman" by Petech.}}

A succession of Ladakhi kings from Tashi Namgyal ({{reign|1555|1575}}) onwards attempted to make forays into Purig, but Kartse is not mentioned by name until the time of Deldan Namgyal ({{reign|1642|1680}}).{{efn|Francke speculates that the two prominent chiefs of Purig at the time of Jamyang Namgyal were those of Chiktan and Kartse, and that both of them had accepted Islam.{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|pp=91, 273–274}} Petech has not accepted the supposition.{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|p=33}}}} Deldan Namgyal, having made peace with Lhasa and the Mughal Empire in Kashmir in his early years, sent a comprehensive invasion force to Purig under general Shakya Gyatso. Chiktan, Pashkum, Sod and Kartse were all conquered. Tri Sultan of Kartse,{{efn|The change of title from "Tri-gyal" to "Tri Sultan" indicates conversion to Islam having taken place. Local tradition informs us that the father of this ruler first converted to Islam.{{sfnp|Grist, The History of Islam in Suru|2005|p=176}}}} who appears to have been an independent king at that time, was taken prisoner. Kashmir sent a small force to check the Ladakhis, but it was repulsed.{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|pp=67–68}}{{sfnp|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907|pp=102–103, 273–274}}

After the Tibet–Ladakh–Mughal War (1679–1683), Ladakh was apparently compelled to return the Purig principalities to their former independence.{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|p=75}}

In the early 18th century, the Suru valley became part of the chiefdom of Purig.{{sfnp|Grist, The History of Islam in Suru|2005|p=175}} According to local traditions, around the year 1720, Mohammed Thi Sultan, who did not have an heir, adopted the Ladakhi ruler Nyima Namgyal as his son.{{sfnp|Handa, Buddhist Western Himalaya|2001|p=165}}{{sfnp|Grist, The History of Islam in Suru|2005|p=176}} After Nyima Namgyal's abdication, Purig was assigned to his second son Tashi Namgyal to rule independenly.{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|p=96}} Five noble familites of Purig are said to have paid tributes to Tashi Namgyal at Mulbekh.{{sfnp|Schwieger, Tsewang Norbu's diplomatic mission|1997|p=223}}{{efn|Judged by the later encounters of Zorawar Singh in 1834, these noble families are likely to have been those of Kartse, Sod, Pashkum, Chiktan and possibly Dras.}}

After Tashi Namgyal, Purig reverted as an integral part of Ladakh.{{sfnp|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977|pp=104–105}}

The Dogras conquered the entire area by 1847 and it proved to be disastrous for the natives. The Dogras were especially harsh to Muslims (including the nobles) in the area, and they attempted to rebel against the Dogras. The current line of control runs near modern Kargil.{{sfnp|Grist, Urbanisation in Kargil|2008}}{{page needed|date=February 2023}}

{{Pie chart

|thumb = right

|caption = Religion in Sanku tehsil (2011){{cite web|url=https://www.censusindia2011.com/jammu-kashmir/kargil/sanku-population.html|title=Sanku Population|work=Census India|access-date=28 October 2021}}

|label1 = Islam

|value1 = 99.93

|color1 = Green

|label2 = Hinduism

|value2 = 0.0

|color2 = Orange

|label3 = Buddhism

|value3 = 0.07

|color3 = Gold

|label4 = Christianity

|value4 = 0.0

|color4 = Blue

|label5 = Sikhism

|value5 = 0.00

|color5 = Yellow

|label6 = Others

|value6 = 0.00

|color6 = Grey

|label7 = Not Stated

|value7 = 0.00

|color7 = Black

}}

The Suru valley is inhabited 25,000 by people of Purgi community people {Tibetan descent]].{{citation needed|date=February 2023}} The majority of the population are followers of Shi'a Islam.{{sfnp|Rizvi, Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia|1996|p=210}} According to local tradition, the populace was converted from Tibetan Buddhism during the rule of Thi-Namgyal, chief of Kartse and his Balti wife Thi Lha Khatun, who brought Muslim scholars to the area, which ultimately led to many conversions.{{sfnp|Gupta, Pre-modern cosmopolitanism|2019|p=196}}{{sfnp|Grist, The History of Islam in Suru|1995}}{{page needed|date=February 2023}} Beyond Parkachik, the valley is practically uninhabited other than a couple of tiny settlements (Yuldo and Julidok) that make up Rangdum. People here are socially and culturally part of neighbouring Buddhist Zanskar and support the 18th century Rangdum Monastery belonging to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism.{{sfnp|Rizvi, Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia|1996|pp=29, 253}}{{rs?|date=February 2023}} About 25 km south of Rangdum Monastery, the 4,400 m (14,436 ft) Pensi La (pass) leads into ZanskarSchettler, Margaret & Rolf (1981). Kashmir, Ladakh & Zanskar. Lonely Planet Publications. South Yarra, Victoria, Australia. {{ISBN|0-908086-21-0}}. p. 150.

Almost the entire population of Suru valley are adherents of Shia Islam. A small fraction of the population also follows the Sunni branch of Islam, mostly concentrated in the villages of Panikhar and Prantee. The few other religious demographics shown in the census are mostly migrant workers from other parts of India.

The Purgi language is the predominant language in the Suru Valley, spoken by about 95 percent of the people in the Sankoo Tehsil.{{cite report |title=C-16 Population By Mother Tongue – Jammu & Kashmir |url = https://www.censusindia.gov.in/2011census/C-16/DDW-C16-STMT-MDDS-0100.XLSX |publisher = Office of the Registrar General & Census Commissioner, India |access-date=18 July 2020}}

The lower part of the valley, at altitudes below 3,000 metres (9,843 ft), is one of the most agriculturally productive parts of Ladakh with two crops a year being harvested, watered by the run-off from the very heavy winter snowfalls,{{sfnp|Rizvi, Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia|1996|pp=38, 118-119}} and even plantations of willow and poplar trees making it a relatively lush and very attractive area, but around Rangdum the landscapes are stark, flat moorlands ringed by arid crags.{{sfnp|Rizvi, Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia|1996|p=29}} The spiky white topped mountain peaks of the Nun-Kun massif, topping 7000 m, are visible from several places in the valley.

Despite considerable potential, tourism activity is very limited in the valley with most visitors rushing through to Padum and Zanskar.Lonely Planet India, 13th edition, page 296 There are few facilities for visitors but Ladakh UT Tourism does have basic tourist bungalows in several of the villages.{{cite web|url=http://www.jktourism.org|title=Jammu & Kashmir Tourism - J&K Tourism}} and there's a summer tent-camp in Rangdum. Tangole village is a possible starting point for mountaineering expeditions up Nun Kun.

{{notelist}}

{{reflist}}

• {{citation |first=Quentin |last=Devers |title=Buddhism before the First Diffusion? The case of Tangol, Dras, Phikhar and Sani-Tarungtse in Purig and Zanskar (Ladakh) |journal=Études Mongoles & Sibériennes, Centrasiatiques & Tibétaines |volume=51 |year=2020 |issue=51 |doi=10.4000/emscat.4226 |s2cid=230579183 |url=https://journals.openedition.org/emscat/4226 |ref={{sfnref|Devers, Buddhism before First Diffusion?|2020}}|doi-access=free }}
• {{citation |last=Francke |first=Rev. A. H. |author-link=A. H. Francke |title=A History of Western Tibet |publisher=S. W. Partridge & Co |date=1907 |url=https://archive.org/details/historyofwestern00ahfr/page/n6 |via=archive.org |ref={{sfnref|Francke, A History of Western Tibet|1907}}}}
• {{citation |first=Ncola |last=Grist |chapter=The History of Islam in Suru |editor1=Henry Osmaston |editor2=Philip Denwood |title=Recent Research on Ladakh 4 & 5: Proceedings of the Fourth and Fifth International Colloquia on Ladakh |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mCy2mBVNqSoC&pg=PA175 |year=1995 |publisher=Motilal Banarsidass Publ. |isbn=978-81-208-1404-2 |pages=175– |ref={{sfnref|Grist, The History of Islam in Suru|1995}}}}
• Nicola Grist (1998), Local Politics in Suru Valley of Northern India (PhD Thesis)
• {{citation |last=Grist |first=Nicola |chapter=The History of Islam in Suru |editor-last=Bray |editor-first=John |title=Ladakhi Histories: Local and Regional Perspectives |publisher=Brill Publishers |year=2005 |pages=175– |series=Brill's Tibetan Studies Library |volume=9 |isbn=9789004145511 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8zduAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA175 |ref={{sfnref|Grist, The History of Islam in Suru|2005}}}}
• {{cite book |first=Nicola |last=Grist |chapter=Urbanisation in Kargil and its Effects in the Suru Valley |editor1=Martijn van Beek |editor2=Fernanda Pirie |title=Modern Ladakh: Anthropological Perspectives on Continuity and Change |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZO95DwAAQBAJ&pg=PA80 |year=2008 |publisher=BRILL |isbn=978-90-474-4334-6 |ref={{sfnref|Grist, Urbanisation in Kargil|2008}}}}
• {{cite book |first=Radhika |last=Gupta |chapter=Allegiance and Alienation: Border Dynamics in Kargil |editor=David N. Gellner |title=Borderland Lives in Northern South Asia |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=I5raAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA47 |year=2013 |publisher=Duke University Press |isbn=978-0-8223-7730-6 |pages=47–71 |ref={{sfnref|Gupta, Allegiance and Alienation|2013}}}}
• {{cite book |first=Riya |last=Gupta |chapter=Pre-modern cosmopolitanism: a challenge to Ladakh's 'Tibetanness' |editor1=Sutapa Dutta |editor2=Nilanjana Mukherjee |date=2019 |title=Mapping India: Transitions and Transformations, 18th–19th Century |publisher=Taylor & Francis |pages=|isbn=978-1-00-018640-6 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=VUagDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT196 |ref={{sfnref|Gupta, Pre-modern cosmopolitanism|2019}}}}
• {{citation |last1=Handa |first1=O. C. |title=Buddhist Western Himalaya: A politico-religious history |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=R4VuovXa5YUC&pg=PA197 |year=2001 |publisher=Indus Publishing |isbn=978-81-7387-124-5 |ref={{sfnref|Handa, Buddhist Western Himalaya|2001}}}}
• {{citation |first=Neil |last=Howard |chapter=What happened between 1450 and 1550 AD? and other questions from the history of Ladakh |editor1=Henry Osmaston |editor2=Nawang Tsering |editor3=International Association for Ladakh Studies |title=Recent Research on Ladakh 6: Proceedings of the Sixth International Colloquium on Ladakh, Leh 1993 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4jX552GiSmYC&pg=PA130 |year=1997 |publisher=Motilal Banarsidass Publ. |isbn=978-81-208-1432-5 |pages=121–138 |ref={{sfnref|Howard, What happened between 1450 and 1550 AD?|1997}}}}
• {{citation |last=Petech |first=Luciano |author-link=Luciano Petech |title=The Kingdom of Ladakh, c. 950–1842 A.D. |publisher=Instituto Italiano Per il Medio ed Estremo Oriente |year=1977 |url=https://archive.org/details/dli.pahar.3498 |via=archive.org |ref={{sfnref|Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh|1977}}}}
• {{citation |last=Rizvi |first=Janet |title=Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia |year=1996 |publisher=Oxford University Press |edition=Second |isbn=978-0-19-564016-8 |url=https://archive.org/details/ladakhcrossroads0000rizv |via=archive.org |url-access=registration |ref={{sfnref|Rizvi, Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia|1996}}}}
• Janet Rizvi. (1996). Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia. Second Edition. Oxford University Press, Delhi. {{ISBN|0-19-564546-4}}.
• {{citation |first=Peter |last=Schwieger |chapter=Kathog Rigzin Tsewang Norbu's (Kah-thog-rig-'dzin Tshe-dbang-nor-bu) diplomatic mission to Ladakh in the 18th century |editor1=Henry Osmaston |editor2=Nawang Tsering |title=Recent Research on Ladakh 6: Proceedings of the Sixth International Colloquium on Ladakh, Leh 1993 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4jX552GiSmYC&pg=PA219 |year=1997 |publisher=Motilal Banarsidass Publ. |isbn=978-81-208-1432-5 |pages=219– |ref={{sfnref|Schwieger, Tsewang Norbu's diplomatic mission|1997}}}}

{{commons category}}

{{Ladakh}}

{{coord|34|34|N|76|06|E|region:CN_source:kolossus-ruwiki|display=title}}

Category:Geography of Ladakh

Category:Valleys of Ladakh

Category:Ladakh