Tengkolok

{{Short description|Malay of Malaysia & Indonesian headgear}}

{{Infobox clothing type

| name = Tengkolok
{{Script/Arabic|تڠكولوق‎‎}}

| image_file = COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Poserende Minangkabause mannen TMnr 10005045.jpg

| image_size = 265px

| caption = Minangkabau man with a tengkolok headgear.

| type = Traditional Headgear

| material = Songket

| location =Maritime Southeast Asia{{Cite web|url= https://sumsel.idntimes.com/travel/journal/feny-agustin/sering-salah-kira-rupanya-ini-bentuk-tanjak-asli-palembang|title= Sering Salah Kira, Rupanya Ini Bentuk Tanjak Asli Palembang}} (Indonesian)

| manufacturer = Malay people{{Cite web|url= https://bnsd.binus.ac.id/fashion-design/2020/12/30/fashion-leadership-theory-at-songket-lepus-palembang/|title= Fashion Leadership Theory at Songket Lepus Palembang}}{{Cite web|url= https://www.palembang-tourism.com/berita-795-mengenal-tanjak-palembang.html|archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20200216211208/http://palembang-tourism.com/berita-795-mengenal-tanjak-palembang.html|url-status= usurped|archive-date= February 16, 2020|title= MENGENAL TANJAK PALEMBANG}} (Indonesian){{cite web|url=https://sumsel.kemenkumham.go.id/berita-kanwil/berita-utama/3968-sosialisasi-sp2020-partisipasi-aktif-lembaga-pemerintah-dan-swasta-dalam-menyukseskan-sensus-penduduk-2020|author=Kanwil Sumsel|date=2019|title=Sosialisasi SP2020 "Partisipasi Aktif Lembaga Pemerintah dan Swasta Dalam Menyukseskan Sensus Penduduk 2020"|lang=Indonesian|website=sumsel.kemenkumham.go.id|publisher=Kantor Wilayah Sumatera Selatan - Kementerian Hukum dan Ham Republik Indonesia|access-date=7 June 2022}} Banjarese, Minangkabau,{{Cite web|url= https://m.kumparan.com/berita-hari-ini/mendalami-suku-minang-dari-adat-dan-budaya-hingga-keseniannya-1up1PyBShwy|title= Mendalami Suku Minang, dari Adat dan Budaya hingga Keseniannya}} Buginese, Makassar, Minahasa, Bajau, Kadazandusun, Gorontalo, Moro people and Brunei Malay people

| url =

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Tengkolok (Jawi: {{Script/Arabic|‏تڠكولوق‎‎}}), also known as Tanjak, Destar (Minangkabau: Deta; Kelantan-Pattani: Semutar; Brunei: Dastar) is a traditional Malay or Indonesian{{Cite web|url= https://palembang.tribunnews.com/2020/10/02/mengenal-sejarah-tanjak-khas-palembang-sudah-ada-sejak-abad-ke-8-kerajaan-sriwijaya|title= Mengenal Sejarah Tanjak Khas Palembang, Sudah Ada Sejak Abad Ke-8 Kerajaan Sriwijaya}} (Indonesia) and male headgear. It is made from long songket cloth folded and tied in a particular style (solek). Nowadays, it is usually worn in ceremonial functions, such as royal ceremonies by royalties, and wedding ceremonies by grooms.{{Cite web |date=2022-11-03 |title=Memartabatkan seni warisan tambatan dastar » Media Permata Online |url=https://mediapermata.com.bn/memartabatkan-seni-warisan-tambatan-dastar/ |access-date=2023-12-03 |website=Memartabatkan seni warisan tambatan dastar |language=en-US}}

Name

The terms tengkolok, Tanjak, and setanjak are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover worn by women",{{Cite web|title=Carian Umum|url=https://prpm.dbp.gov.my/cari1?keyword=tengkolok|access-date=2023-01-02|website=prpm.dbp.gov.my}} but the definition of women's headgear is rarely used today.{{Cite web|url= https://pekanbaru.tribunnews.com/2017/02/03/arti-tanjak-bagi-orang-melayu?page=2|title= Arti Tanjak Bagi Orang Melayu}} (Indonesian)

However, some people{{Who|date=December 2016}} say that tengkolok, tanjak, and destar are different in terms of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is the same, which the tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip; destar has low tying and its tying layers are fewer than tengkolok; tanjak has tying much like tengkolok, the only difference is that its cloth is simple and thin.

Solek

{{further information|Regalia of Malaysia}}

Tengkolok is made in various forms, with different types and designs of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress.[http://resam-melayu.com/2009/12/tanjak-warisan-melayu.html Tanjak Warisan Melayu], Resam Melayu. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011. The general term for different forms of tengkolok is solek. Each solek also has its different special name, for instance: the tengkolok worn by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during the coronation ceremony is known as Solek Dendam Tak Sudah (Persistent Vengeance Style).

Every Malay king has their particular solek. For example, the Sultan of Selangor wears a richly golden yellow Solek Balung Raja (Royal Crest Style) when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.

Brunei

The traditional attire of the Brunei Malay population, locally known as destar, represents the significance of Malay rulers and nobility throughout history. In addition, it served as a representation of the social structure of the time, separating commoners from dignitaries until the head covering became the Malay custom of dressing.{{Cite web |date=2017-05-13 |title=Penyolek tengkolok warisan » Media Permata Online |url=https://mediapermata.com.bn/penyolek-tengkolok-warisan/ |access-date=2023-12-03 |website=Penyolek tengkolok warisan |language=en-US}} Over two millennia have passed since the discovery of Brunei's destar types, which include Destar Taruna, Helang Benari, Singa Menerpa, Layar Bahtera, Nakhoda Sailar, and Hulubalang Diraja. The destar's production process, it was previously known that a high-quality dastar requires a week to complete, which has a more adaptable notion, is what makes it distinctive.

Gallery

File:National Museum KL 2008 (119).JPG|"Dendam Tak Sudah" tengkolok wore by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony

File:Tengkolok collection at Muzium Negara .jpg|Collection of Tengkolok worn by Sultan for all Malay states except Johor which Sultan of Johor wore a crown due to influence from the British Empire. Each tengkolok has different styles as there has to contain symbols and meanings.

File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM De prinsen van Deli Langkat en Serdang TMnr 10001178.jpg|A Sumatran variant type of tengkolok worn by royal princes from Deli, Langkat and Serdang Kingdom of North Sumatra, Indonesia

File:His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan of Brunei Darussalam, and Her Majesty Duli Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha 2017.jpg|link=|Tengkolok being worn by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah

File:Local Product Expo 2023 (Brunei) 14.jpg|link=|Different types of Brunei tengolok on display

See also

Note

{{reflist}}

{{Headgear}}

{{Folk costume}}

{{Indonesian clothing}}

{{Malaysian clothing}}

{{Authority control}}

Category:Headgear

Category:Indonesian clothing

Category:Malay clothing

Category:Culture of Indonesia

Category:Islamic male clothing