Terlig

The origins of the term terlig are debatable. It may have come from the Turkic word {{Lang|trk|tärlik}}.

The terlig is of Mongol origins. According to a paper published in 2003, no terlig were found in Han Chinese nationalities and in other nationalities in Northern China prior to the establishment of the Yuan dynasty. Originally, the Mongol terlig was a type of long, knee-length coat with a front-opening coat with voluminous folds along the waistline and side vents at the side to provide ease of movement; it also has long and tight sleeves, tight-fitting bodice, a wide waistband and the coat is fastened at the side.{{Rp|page=|pages=75–76}} It was made with animal hides.

In modern times, the term terlig is still used to describe Mongolian ethnic clothing. The Buryats wear a coat called {{Transliteration|bua|tyrlyk}} which can refer to a coat which can come with or without folds at the waist.

{{Main|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}}

File:Imperial_Encyclopaedia_-_Ceremonial_Usages_-_pic414_-_腰線襖子.svg, between 1700 and 1725 AD]]

In the Yuan dynasty, the terlig was known as {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|s=腰线袄[子]|t=腰線襖子}}) or {{Transliteration|zh|bianxianao}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|s=辫线袄|t=辮線襖}}) in Chinese literature;{{Rp|page=|pages=75–76}} it was a popular style of coat and was a very important form of clothing.{{Cite journal|last=Wei|first=Luo|date=2018-01-02|title=A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417|journal=Social Sciences in China|volume=39|issue=1|pages=165–185|doi=10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417|s2cid=149138176|issn=0252-9203}}{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}} The terlig became more established and symbolized the attire of people of higher social status. It was worn by people of all social classes;{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}} the social status markers was the fabric quality. The jisün clothing was itself a variation of the terlig.{{Rp|page=64}}File:Liu-Kuan-Tao-Jagd.JPG.]]

The terlig in the Yuan dynasty was especially characterized by the presence of numerous narrow and dense folds (or pleats) at waist and by the presence of "waist-thread" decoration on the waistband wherein people would use red and silk threads to fasten the coat on their waist.{{Cite web|title=Robe with Decorative Braided Waist Band {{!}} Silk Roads Programme|url=https://en.unesco.org/silkroad/silk-road-themes/mouvable-heritage-and-museums/robe-decorative-braided-waist-band-0|access-date=2021-05-05|website=en.unesco.org}} These two features were the biggest advantages of the coat which made it suitable for riding horses. The waistband was large and typically 15 cm in width. The robe was also calf-length, had long narrow sleeves, and had a cinched waist which was created by the waist-thread; it also had a side closure which was fastened at the right side with ties.{{Rp|page=49}} The collar could either be cross-collared or round-collared. It could be decorated with flowers and could come in various colours. From the early to later periods of the Yuan dynasty, the basic form of terlig remained relatively unchanged, although some variations of the ribbon (i.e. ribboned vs braided waist) most likely coexisted together.{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}}

File:Prince's_Robe,_Tomb_of_Ming_Prince_Zhu_Tan_(10144881036).jpg.]]

Some Mongol clothing from the Yuan dynasty was continued in the Ming dynasty despite the repeated prohibition of Mongol-style clothing, especially during the reign of the Hongwu Emperor.{{Rp|page=147|pages=}} The jisün, a type of Yuan dynasty terlig, continued to be worn in Ming dynasty, where it was known as {{Transliteration|zh|zhisun}} robe.{{Rp|page=|pages=147–148}}

The Daminghuidian《大明会典》records the {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}} (terlig/tieli) was worn by the official in charge of imperial protocol during the Keqi period; "During Keqi, they wear head-wraps and colourful waist-thread coats decorated with eagles and sparrow-hawks at front and back".{{Cite web |title=大明会典 - 中国哲学书电子化计划 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&res=706630&searchu=%E8%85%B0%E7%BA%BF%E8%A2%84%E5%AD%90&remap=gb |access-date=2022-05-18 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-CN |quote=刻期、冠方顶巾。衣胸背鹰鹞花腰线袄子。诸色阔丝匾绦。象牙雕花环。行縢八带鞋。皂隶、冠圆顶巾。衣皂衣}} In the Ming dynasty tomb of Prince Zhu Tan (1370 – 1389 AD), a {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} with tight sleeves and has the waistband characteristics was excavated; this robe was almost similar to the terlig found in the Yuan dynasty.

After being adopted in the Ming dynasty, the tieli eventually became longer, and its overall structure was made closer to the shenyi system in order to integrate Han Chinese rituals; it also lost its "waist-thread" characteristics in the process.{{Cite web |date=2020-10-07 |title=Ancient Chinese Robes for Men: Tieli & Yisan - 2020 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/6021.html |access-date=2021-07-10 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}} Localized forms of Mongol terlig continued to be called {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} ({{Lang-zh|c=貼裏}}). The {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} continued to be worn in the Ming dynasty by high-ranking eunuchs.{{Cite journal |last=Yuan |first=Zujie |date=2007 |title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |journal=Frontiers of History in China |volume=2 |issue=2 |pages=181–212 |doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |issn=1673-3401 |s2cid=195069294}} The {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} could also be decorated with ornate patterns, such as the feiyufu ({{Lang-zh|s=飞鱼服|t=飛魚服|p=fēiyúfú|l=flying fish clothing}}).

Another new style of Ming dynasty tieli was the pleated robe ({{Lang-zh|c=褶(摺)子衣|p=Zhě(zhé)ziyī}}), which was also derived from and heavily influenced by the Yuan dynasty's {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}}.{{Cite web |title=民族服饰 - 采风纪实 - - 丝博之旅——（明）棉布贴里 |url=http://www.biftmuseum.com/oldpic/cfjs-detail?sid=15509#atHere |access-date=2022-05-18 |website=www.biftmuseum.com}} The lower hem of the {{Transliteration|zh|zhezhiyi}} had numerous dense and narrow pleats (with little space between each pleats) and kept more features akin to the Mongol terlig than the yesa robe. It also lacked the "waist-thread" characteristics of the Yuan dynasty's {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}}.

The yesa robe, a new Ming dynasty style of clothing, has some of its mixed-elements either developed from the Yuan dynasty Mongol terlig or from {{Transliteration|mn|jisün}} clothing, which is itself a type of terlig. One of the main characteristics of the yesa was the absence of waistband and the absence of fold on the central front and back of the robe. It was also longer than the Yuan dynasty's terlig.

File:明憲宗行樂圖（局部）2.jpg|Ming dynasty Tieli (i.e. terlig).

File:明憲宗行樂圖（局部）4.jpg|Ming dynasty Yesa, a derivative of the Yuan dynasty Mongol's terlig.

File:Ming Emperor Xuande playing Golf.jpg|Ming Emperor and his servants wearing yesa, a derivative of the Mongol terlig, c. 15th century AD.

File:Ming Dynasty Pottery Figure (10092993625).jpg|Pottery figure wearing a tieli, Ming dynasty

File:明憲宗行樂圖（局部）3.jpg|Ming dynasty tieli

{{Main|Qizhuang}}

{{See also|Dragon robe|Mangfu}}

In the Qing dynasty, the terlig evolved into a form of ceremonial dress ({{Lang-zh|c=朝服|p=chaofu}}), a robe with folds at the waist. The Qing dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|chaofu}} was also a Manchu adaptation of the Han Chinese court dress.{{Cite web|title=Robe of State19th century China|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/68295|access-date=2021-05-05|website=www.metmuseum.org}} The Manchu element can be seen from the slim-fitting sleeves and horse-hoof-shaped cuffs, which are the vestiges of the Manchu clothing worn when people were hunting in cold weather.

File:MET 17 82 2 front.jpg|Qing dynasty chaofu.

File:MET 35 84 3 F.jpeg|Qing dynasty chaofu, second half of the 19th century. It features a fully pleated skirt.

The earliest records of the term terlig in Korea date from the 15th century AD. The term terlig can be written in several ways in Korea, such as {{Transliteration|ko|mr|t'yŏllik}} ({{Lang|ko|텰릭}} or {{Lang|ko|텬릭}}), {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏllik}} ({{Lang|ko|철릭}}), or {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏnik}} ({{Lang|ko|천익}}), or {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏmni}} (帖裡, 帖裏, 貼裏) or {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏnik}} (天益, 天翼, 千翼).{{Cite journal|last=Joo|first=Lee Eun|date=1988|title=A Study on the Term 'Cheolick'|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198825720595100.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=12|issue=3|pages=363–371|issn=1225-1151}} The term {{Transliteration|ko|cheolick}} ({{Lang|ko|철릭}}) is derived from the Mongolian term terlig; the term was introduced in Korea through China along with Chinese characters but continued to maintain the Mongolian sound.

The terlig was introduced in Korea from the Yuan dynasty during the later period of the mid-Goryeo dynasty as daily clothing or as yangbok (i.e. military clothing).{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=9788928902873 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}{{Rp|page=110}} In the Goryeosa, Mongol clothing were typically referred as hobok (胡服; 'barbaric outlander's clothing') and sometimes as {{Transliteration|ko|ilsaek}} (一色; 'clothing of one-colour') for {{Transliteration|ko|rr|jilson}} (質孫 or 只孫) banquets. The terlig became more and more common in Korea due to the close relationship between the Goryeo and Mongol court through political marriages, and Mongol clothing was adopted in the Korean court in the late 13th and early 14th centuries AD.{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}} Some artefacts of Goryeo-period terligs have survived time.

File:영암_최원립장군_묘_출토_철릭.jpg Cheolick ({{Lang|ko|철릭}}).]]

In Joseon, the terlig was written as {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏmni}} (帖裡; possibly pronounced {{Transliteration|okm|tieli}} in Middle Korean) in a book on music called {{Transliteration|ko|rr|Akhak gwebom}} and was possibly pronounced as {{Transliteration|okm|tieli}} in Middle Korean; there is an illustration of a coat with folds and a waistband in the same book. Some forms of terlig in Joseon were bestowed clothing from China. The term terlig was written as {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏmni}} (帖裏) in the Annals of the Joseon dynasty from 1424 AD to describe presents given from China's Ming dynasty or to describe military uniforms. In 1444 during the reign of King Sejong, a set of daily clothing was bestowed to the King by the Ming dynasty which included the dapho, cheolick, and gollyongpo.{{Cite web |last= |title=철릭 |trans-title=Cheolick |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/7203 |access-date=2022-03-24 |website=한국민속대백과사전 |language=ko}} Note that [https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7203 the official English translation] contains an error, writing "dopo" (a different robe style) where the Korean unambiguously refers to the dapho. The Joseon court also bestowed cheolick to its official, including dallyeong, dapho, and cheolick.{{Rp|page=111}}

In Joseon, the terlig developed further with the disappearance of the waistband along with the increase in sleeve width. After the 17th century, the bodice of the terlig became shorter than the length of the skirt and formed a high-waistline style. In Joseon, the {{Transliteration|ko|rr|cheollik}} was a form of court clothing (gwanbok); it was worn by the kings and by civil and military officials.{{Cite web|title=Official/Court Clothing|url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official|access-date=2021-05-09|website=www.lifeinkorea.com}}

The terlig appears to have been fashionable in the Ilkhanate court.{{Cite journal|last=Oka|first=Ildikó|title=Mongol Clothing in the Yuan Period|date=2015|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957434|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=4|pages=385–414|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.4.2|jstor=43957434|issn=0001-6446}}

File:Tegüder_et_Shams_al-Dîn_Djuvaynî.jpeg and Shams ad-Din Juvayni. Jami' al-tawarikh, Rashid al-Din, painting dating from c.1430 AD.]]

The terlig worn in the Ilkhanate were slightly different from the ones in the China's Yuan dynasty despite some similarities in terms of shapes and while some were also decorated with Central or East-Asian motifs (e.g. cloud collar designs, Central or East Asian-style dragons, phoenixes and flowers such as lotus, chrysanthemum) which were introduced in West Asia during the Mongol period.{{Rp|page=101}}

File:IlkhanidHorseArcher.jpg drawing of an Ilkhanid horse archer, 15th century AD.|189x189px]]

The terlig worn in the Ilkhnate regions had a combination of both Mongol and Islamic culture characteristics, such as roundel patterns and pseudo-Kufic inscription.{{Cite web|title=Aga Khan Museum|url=http://agakhanmuseum.org/collection/artifact/robe-AKM677|access-date=2021-05-05|website=Aga Khan Museum|language=en}} The main differences from the Yuan dynasty terlig is the presence of tirāz bands in the forms of strips and in the way some of the clothing were worn together.{{Rp|page=101}} The Islamic influences led to the implementation of bands (possibly reinforcement strips) along the shoulders and the arms. The terlig in the Ilkhanate was worn as an inner garment under a short-sleeved, outer coat. The waist-decoration also appears to have been less common in the Ilkhanate than in the Yuan dynasty. The collars could also be found in different shapes, such standing collars; this marked another difference from those on the terligs worn in the Yuan dynasty.

File:Ulugh_Beg_with_ladies_of_his_harem_and_retainers,_Timurid_1425-50.jpg and retainers wearing Mongol clothing, Timurid 1425-50]]

Mongol clothing and Mongol-style clothing continued to appear in Timurid art, such as illustration; this may indicate that Mongol clothing or Mongol-style clothing may have been adopted or worn in the Central Asian Timurid Court.{{Rp|page=|pages=147–148}} However, this subject needs to be studied further.{{Rp|page=|pages=147–148}}

{{Clear}}

{{Main|Jama (coat)}}

File:Govardhan._Akbar_With_Lion_and_Calf_ca._1630,_Metmuseum_(cropped).jpg

In the Mughal Empire, the terlig was called jama (also written as jamah). The jama was later renamed to sarbgati (which means 'covering the whole body') by Emperor Akbar himself.{{Cite book|last=Chaudhuri|first=K. N.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cYY6AAAAIAAJ&dq=sarbgati%20clothing&pg=PA188|title=Asia before Europe : economy and civilisation of the Indian Ocean from the rise of Islam to 1750|date=1990|publisher=Cambridge University Press|isbn=0-521-30400-8|location=Cambridge [England]|pages=188|oclc=20014228}}{{Cite book|last=Jahan|first=Isharat|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=DZiCDwAAQBAJ&dq=sarbgati+clothing&pg=PA92|title=Socio-Cultural life in Medieval History|publisher=Laxmi Book Publication|year=2016|isbn=9780359222803|pages=92}} The jama was initially worn by the Muslim ruling class at the Mughal court. The jama was developed as part of the introduction of the Islamic culture in India and was perceived as being part of the new appropriation of Islamic identity rather than Mongol culture.

File:Man's_Robe_(Jama)_with_Poppies_MET_DT11765.jpg

Prior to the reign of Emperor Akbar, Mughal clothing was only influenced by geographical conditions and the differences in climate and was not influenced by Indian culture.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zOqy3gB40mQC&q=mughal+clothing+akbar|title=Sind University Research Journal|publisher=Sind University Press|others=The University of California; University of Sind, Faculty of Arts|year=1985|pages=79}} It only at the time of Emperor Akbar that alteration of Mughal clothing started to take place.

Emperor Akbar encouraged all of his citizens to wear the jama and created new clothing regulations in order to integrate the Muslim and local Hindu populations; the direction of the coat fastening differentiated the Indus and the Muslims. The Indus fastened their jama to the left side while the Muslims fastened it to the right side, similarly to the Mongols.

The jama was a clothing which showed hybridity with the local culture of India. The jama was a long coat with folds around the waistline without the waistband; it had very long, tight sleeves and the waistline was higher than the original Mongol terlig. The jama was long and could either be knee-length or ankle-length.{{Cite journal|last1=Sharma|first1=K.D.|last2=Sharma|first2=Swati|date=2017|title=The Imperial Costumes of Mughal Era|url=https://anubooks.com/rjpsss-2017-no-1/|journal=Research Journal of Philosophy & Social Sciences|volume=43|issue=1|pages=233–241}}

A new style of clothing was later developed by Emperor Akbar by mixing the Indian Takwchiyah clothing of the Rajput and the foreign jama to create a long robe which could be knee-length or longer with a round skirt without any slits.

• Feiyufu
• Jisün
• Yesa

• Fashion in Yuan dynasty
• Hanfu

{{Reflist}}{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Culture of the Yuan dynasty

Category:Culture of the Ming dynasty

Category:Chinese traditional clothing

Category:Mongolian fashion

Category:Culture of Mongolia