Feiyufu

{{Short description|Traditional Chinese robe with the embroidery of a flying-fish}}

{{Infobox Chinese

| t = 飛魚服

| s = 飞鱼服

| p = fēiyúfú

| l = Flying fish clothing

| pic =

| piccap = Man wearing a modern Ming dynasty feiyufu.

}}

File:Ming armoured cavalry departure herald (51171383346).jpg

Feiyufu ({{Lang-zh|s=飞鱼服|t=飛魚服|first=t|p=fēiyúfú|l=flying fish clothing}}), also called feiyu mangyi ({{Lang-zh|s=飞鱼蟒衣|t=|p=Fēiyú mǎngyī|l=flying-fish python robe}}),{{Cite journal |last=Volpp |first=Sophie |date=2005 |title=The Gift of a Python Robe: The Circulation of Objects in "Jin Ping Mei" |journal=Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies |volume=65 |issue=1 |pages=133–158 |doi=10.2307/25066765 |jstor=25066765 |issn=0073-0548|doi-access=free }} is a type of traditional Han Chinese clothing which first appeared in the Ming dynasty.{{Cite book|last=Welch|first=Patricia Bjaaland|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/893707208|title=Chinese art : a guide to motifs and visual imagery|date=2012|publisher=Tuttle Publishing|isbn=978-1-4629-0689-5|location=Boston, US|pages=260|oclc=893707208}}{{Citation|last=Zhao|first=Feng|title=Weaving Technology|date=2015|url=http://link.springer.com/10.1007/978-3-662-44166-4_4|work=A History of Chinese Science and Technology|pages=379–493|editor-last=Lu|editor-first=Yongxiang|place=Berlin, Heidelberg|publisher=Springer Berlin Heidelberg|language=en|doi=10.1007/978-3-662-44166-4_4|isbn=978-3-662-44165-7|access-date=2021-07-10}} It is also specific name which generally refers to a robe (generally tieli) decorated with the patterns of flying fish (although the flying fish is not the flying fish defined in the dictionary). The feiyufu worn by the Ming dynasty imperial guards reappeared in the 21st century following the hanfu movement and is worn by Hanfu enthusiasts of both genders.{{Cite web|date=2020-07-31|title=Important Costumes of Ming Dynasty - Flying Fish Suit|url=https://www.fashionhanfu.com/2020/07/31/dynasty-flying-fish-suit/|access-date=2021-07-10|website=Fashion Hanfu|language=en-US}}{{Cite web|date=2020|title=Feiyu Robe - Cool Chinese Boy Clothes|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/3957.html|access-date=2021-07-10|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}}

''{{Transliteration|zh|Feiyu}}'' embroidery design

The flying fish decoration looks very similar to the python (mang) pattern on the mangfu ({{Lang-zh|c=蟒服|l=python robe}}), but was actually a dragon-like creature with wings and the fanned tail of a fish.{{Cite book |last1=Ding |first1=Ying |last2=Li |first2=Xiaolong |title=Proceedings of the 2014 International Conference on Mechatronics, Electronic, Industrial and Control Engineering |chapter=On the Decoration and Symbolization of Chinese Ancient Official Uniform in Ming and Qing Dynasties |date=2014 |volume=5 |url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/meic-14/15195 |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |pages=1025–1029 |doi=10.2991/meic-14.2014.229 |isbn=978-94-6252-042-4}}{{Cite book |last=Burkus |first=Anne Gail |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877 |title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou |date=2010 |others=Yuan, active Liu |isbn=978-1-68417-050-0 |location=Cambridge, Mass. |pages=87 |oclc=956711877}} The flying fish also had 4 claws like the mang, a dragon head and a carp's body and two horns.{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1045652964 |title=The right to dress : sumptuary laws in a global perspective, c. 1200-1800 |date=2019 |others=Giorgio Riello, Ulinka Rublack |isbn=978-1-108-47591-4 |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |pages=421 |oclc=1045652964}}

The early flying fish ornament were characterized by the presence of double wings while in the middle and late Ming dynasty, the flying fish could only be distinguished from the python pattern by the presence of its fish tail instead of a dragon tail.

Construction and design

The feiyufu is typically in the form of tieli (a robe with a y-shaped cross collar, with either broad or narrow sleeves and pleats below the waist) decorated with the feiyu pattern.{{Cite journal|last1=Cho|first1=Woohyun|last2=Yi|first2=Jaeyoon|last3=Kim|first3=Jinyoung|date=2015|title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of theTerlig|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=22–29|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2|issn=0001-6446}}

History

File:Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg wearing feiyufu, Ming Dynasty.]]

= Ming dynasty =

The tieli ({{Lang-zh|c=贴里}}) originated in the Yuan dynasty in a form of Mongol robe known as terlig. Despite the repeated prohibition of Mongol-style clothing, especially during the reign of the Hongwu Emperor, some Mongol clothing from the Yuan dynasty remained.{{Cite book|last=Shea|first=Eiren L.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1139920835|title=Mongol court dress, identity formation, and global exchange|date=2020|isbn=978-0-429-34065-9|location=New York, NY|pages=147|oclc=1139920835}} After being adopted in the Ming dynasty, the tieli became longer and its overall structure was made closer to the shenyi system in order to integrate Han Chinese rituals.

The feiyufu appeared in the Ming dynasty and was unique to the Ming dynasty.{{Cite web|date=2020|title=What is the Ming Dynasty Hanfu Clothing? - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/3588.html|access-date=2021-07-10|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}} It is a form of tieli decorated with flying fish patterns. The feiyfu was also a type of cifu ({{Lang-zh|c=赐服|l=presentation clothes}}), a form of clothing which can only be bestowed by the Chinese emperors to those whom he favoured,{{Cite web|date=2019|title=You Need a Flying Fish Robe to Become a Knight-errant - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/1135.html|access-date=2021-07-10|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}} and were only second to the mangfu ({{Lang-zh|c=蟒服|l=python robe}}).

List of people bestowed with feiyufu

In the Ming dynasty, the feiyufu could be worn by a handful of civil officials, military officers, and chief eunuchs:{{Cite book|last=Huang|first=Ray|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/6280586|title=1587, a year of no significance : the Ming dynasty in decline|date=1981|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=0-300-02518-1|location=New Haven|pages=54|oclc=6280586}}

  • Under the rule of the Yongle Emperor (r. 1402 –1424 AD), the eunuchs were allowed feiyufu when they would serve the emperor.{{Cite journal|last=Yuan|first=Zujie|date=2007|title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China|url=https://brill.com/abstract/journals/fhic/2/2/article-p181_4.xml|journal=Frontiers of History in China|language=en|volume=2|issue=2|pages=181–212|doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x|s2cid=195069294 |issn=1673-3401}}
  • In 1447 AD during the reign of the Zhengtong Emperor, the Ministry of Works issued an edict which would put artisans to death and send artisan's families to frontier garrisons as soldiers should the artisan produce feiyufu among other prohibited clothing for commoners. The edict was issued to stop the transgressing of dress regulations.
  • Emperor Zhengde (r. 1505 – 1521 AD) bestowed a feiyufu to Song Suqing, a Japanese envoy, in an unprecedented act.{{Cite book|last=So|first=Kwan Wai|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1818020|title=Japanese piracy in Ming China during the 16th century|date=1975|publisher=Michigan State University Press|isbn=0-87013-179-6|location=[East Lansing?]|pages=173|oclc=1818020}}
  • Shen Defu (1578 –1642 AD) also noted the emperor would could bestow a red feiyufu to a guard which was promoted to court guard. He also wrote in "the beginnings of the bestowals of dragon robes to Grand Secretaries" that the feiyufu was bestowed to the six ministers, the grand marshals with the mission to inspect troops, and to the eunuchs who were servicing in the houses of princes.

Similar clothing

See also

References

{{reflist}}{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Chinese traditional clothing