Traditional Thai clothing

File:Siam traditional clothes.jpg]]

Traditional Thai clothing ({{Langx|th|ชุดไทย}}, {{RTGS|chut thai}} {{literal translation|Thai outfit}}) refers to the traditional styles of dress worn by the Thai people. It can be worn by men, women, and children. Traditional clothing for Thai women usually consists of a pha nung or a (chong kraben), and a sabai. Northern and northeastern women may wear a sin instead of a pha nung and a chong kraben with either a blouse or a suea pat. Chut thai for men includes a chong kraben or pants, a Raj pattern shirt, with optional knee-length white socks and a sabai. Chut thai for northern Thai men is composed of a sado, a white Manchu-styled jacket, and sometimes a khian hua. In formal occasions, people may choose to wear a so-called formal Thai national costume.

History

File:Siamese (Thai) State Officials Envoys 1759.jpg, 18th century painting in the National Palace Museum in Taipei.]]

File:La_Loubere_Kingdom_of_Siam.jpg shows a Siamese official wearing lombok and chong kraben and a traditional Thai house]]

Historically, both Thai males and females dressed themselves with a loincloth wrap called chong kraben.{{cite journal |last1=Singhalampong |first1=Eksuda |title=Picturing Femininity: Portraits of the Early Modern Siamese Women |journal=Southeast of Now: Directions in Contemporary and Modern Art in Asia |date=March 2019 |volume=3 |issue=1 |pages=49–75 |doi=10.1353/sen.2019.0003 |url=https://muse.jhu.edu/article/721045/pdf |access-date=18 February 2020|doi-access=free }}{{RP|Note 10}} Men wore their chong kraben to cover the waist to halfway down the thigh, whilst women wore their chong kraben down the waist to well below the knee.{{cite journal|last=Terwiel|first=Barend Jan|date=2007|title=The Body and Sexuality in Siam: A First Exploration in Early Sources|journal=Manusya: Journal of Humanities|volume=10 |issue=14|pages=42–55|doi=10.1163/26659077-01004003 |url=http://www.manusya.journals.chula.ac.th/files/essay/Terwiel_42-55.pdf}} Members of the nobility wore silk robes called khrui and a tall, pointed hat called lomphok in attendance of royal affairs. Bare chests and bare feet were accepted as part of the Thai formal dress code, and are observed in murals, illustrated manuscripts, and early photographs up to the middle–1800s. Prior to the 20th century, the primary markers that distinguished class in Thai clothing were the use of cotton and silk cloths with printed or woven motifs, but both commoners and royals alike wore wrapped, not stitched clothing.{{cite book|last=Peleggi|first=Maurizio|title=The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas|editor=Mina Roces|publisher=Sussex Academic Press|date=2010|isbn=9781845193997}} Traditional Thai attire changed significantly during the Rattanakosin period.{{citation needed|date=November 2019}}

Prior to the 1700s, Thai men and women both kept their hair long. However, following the Burmese–Siamese wars of 1759-1760 and 1765–1767 and repeated Burmese invasions into Ayutthaya, central Thai women began cutting their hair in a crew-cut short style, which remained the national hairstyle until the 1900s.{{cite book|last=Jotisalikorn|first=Chami|title=Thailand's Luxury Spas: Pampering Yourself in Paradise|publisher=Tuttle Publishing|date=2013|page=183}}

From the 1860s onward, Thai royals "selectively adopted Victorian corporeal and sartorial etiquette to fashion modern personas that were publicized domestically and internationally by means of mechanically reproduced images." Stitched clothing, including court attire and ceremonial uniforms, were invented during the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Western forms of dress became popular among urbanites in Bangkok during this period.

During the early–1900s, King Chulalongkorn encouraged Thai women to wear long hair instead of traditional short hair which later became a trend during the reign of King Vajiravudh along with wearing pha sin (ผ้าซิ่น), a tubular skirt, instead of the chong kraben (โจงกระเบน), a cloth wrap.{{cite web|url=http://www.thaiwaysmagazine.com/thai_article/1911_thai_women_status/thai_women_status.html|title=Women's Status in Thai Society|last=Saruta|date=10 September 2002|work=Thaiways Magazine|access-date=7 November 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161031113121/http://www.thaiwaysmagazine.com/thai_article/1911_thai_women_status/thai_women_status.html|archive-date=31 October 2016|url-status=dead}}

On 15 January 1941, Plaek Pibulsonggram issued a Thai cultural mandate to modernize and Westernize Thai dress, by deeming the long-practiced customs of wearing underpants, wearing no shirt, or wearing a wraparound cloth, as forms of inappropriate public attire.[https://web.archive.org/web/20120609234836/http://www.ratchakitcha.soc.go.th/DATA/PDF/2484/A/113.PDF The Royal Gazette, Vol. 58, Page 113.] January 21, B.E. 2484 (C.E. 1941). Retrieved on June 4, 2010.

Traditional costumes

=Chong kraben=

Chong kraben or Sompot Chong Kben ({{Langx|th|โจงกระเบน}} {{IPA|th|tɕoːŋ.kra.beːn}}) is a lower-body, wraparound cloth. It is synonymous with the Khmer sampot. The sampot is a long, rectangular cloth worn around the lower body. The traditional dress is similar to the dhoti of South Asia. The chong kraben resembles pants more than skirts. It is a rectangular piece of cloth measuring three meters long and one meter wide. It is worn by wrapping around the waist, stretching it away from the body, twisting the ends together then pulling the twisted fabric between the legs and tucking it in the back of the waist.

=Pha nung=

File:Isan modifie dressing.JPG dress for Rocket Festival, Roi Et]]

The pha nung ({{langx|th|ผ้านุ่ง}}), also known as pha sin ({{langx|th|ผ้าซิ่น}}) or pha thung ({{langx|th|ผ้าถุง}}), is a long fabric worn around the waist that resembles a long skirt.James C. Ingram. Economic change in Thailand 1850-1970. Stanford University Press, 1971, p. 10 By

{{cite news |last1=Thepthong |first1=Phitsanu |title=Pushing 'phasin' to the fore |url=https://www.bangkokpost.com/thailand/special-reports/1858929/pushing-phasin-to-the-fore |access-date=17 February 2020 |work=Bangkok Post |date=17 February 2020}}

File:Thai traditional costumes Chiang Mai 2005 033.jpg]]

=Sabai=

File:Silk Loom Jim Thompson House photo D Ramey Logan.jpg]]

Sabai ({{Langx|th|สไบ}} {{IPA|th|sa.baj}}) or pha biang ({{Langx|th|ผ้าเบี่ยง}} {{IPA|th|pʰâː.bìaŋ}}) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabai can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabai could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing sabai along with Victorian clothing was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable. The wearing of sabai as daily wear was officially banned by Plaek Pibulsonggram during Thailand's clothing reform.

=Suea pat=

Suea pat ({{Langx|th|เสื้อปัด}} {{IPA|th|sɯ̂a.pàt}}) is a long-sleeved shirt with no buttons. It is worn by wrapping the right side of the front panel of the shirt over the left side of the front panel, and the two panels are tied together via strings. Suea pats are typically worn by northern Thai women

=Raj pattern=

File:King Chulalongkorn wearing raj pattern.jpg wearing the raj pattern costume, consisting of a white Nehru-style jacket with five buttons and a chong kraben.]]

Raj pattern refers either to a Thai men's costume consisting of a white Nehru-style jacket with five buttons, a chong kraben, knee-length socks, and dress shoes ({{langx|th|ชุดราชปะแตน}}, {{RTGS|chut ratpataen}}) , or to the specific form of the jacket itself ({{langx|th|ราชปะแตน}}, {{RTGS|ratpataen}}). It was worn chiefly during the late-19th and early-20th centuries by government officials and the upper class in Bangkok, and nowadays is used in select circumstances as a national costume.

=Pha khao ma=

Pha khao ma ({{Langx|th|ผ้าขาวม้า}} {{IPA|th|pʰâː kʰǎw máː}})) is a versatile plaid fabric woven for centuries in Thailand. It serves numerous purposes, including being worn as a waistband by Thai men, used as a handkerchief, fan, or head covering to protect against the sun, and even used as a makeshift cradle or to carry goods. The cloth's practicality and sustainability have attracted the attention of designers in the fashion and interior design industries.{{citation|title=Multi-Purpose of Thai Loincloth "Pha-Khao-Ma"|url=https://www2.rsu.ac.th/clipping/2016/06102560094129_Event_mix_p84,85.pdf|date=October 31, 2017}} The word Khao ma is derived from the Persian word Kamarband, meaning waistband or belt.{{Citation|title=Pha Khao Ma, the Multi-Purpose Loincloth

|url=https://aboutthailandliving.com/pha-khao-ma-the-multi-purpose-loincloth/|date=December 22, 2015}} This cloth has become an omnipresent item in Thai society. Its recognition as a national cultural heritage in Thailand and nomination for UNESCO World Heritage status in 2027.{{Citation|title=Pha Khao Ma: The checkered cloth woven into Thai culture|date=March 10, 2023 |url=https://www.thaipbsworld.com/pha-khao-ma-the-checkered-cloth-woven-into-thai-culture/}}

=Tabengman=

Tabengman ({{Langx|th|ตะเบงมาน}} {{IPA|th|tá.bēng.māːn}}) is a traditional Thai cloth that originated during the late Ayutthaya period. It consists of a piece of cloth that covers the chest and is tied behind the neck.{{citation|lang=th|url=http://dspace.spu.ac.th/bitstream/123456789/6223/1/56000881_%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%90%20%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5.pdf|page=14|date=2018|title=THAILAND FASHION CENTER|author=Saharat Techanubal}} It remains an important part of Thailand's cultural heritage and history, and continues to inspire contemporary fashion designers and artists. It has been featured in national and international events,{{Citation|title="นิโคลีน" นุ่งโจงห่มตะเบงมาน โชว์ความฮึกเหิมก่อนบินประกวด "มิสเวิลด์ 2018"|url=https://mgronline.com/entertainment/detail/9610000109365|lang=th|date=November 2, 2018}} and the clothing worn by the main character in the 2021 Disney film Raya and the Last Dragon, which is inspired by traditional Southeast Asian cloth including Tabengman.{{citation|title=The Rise of Ethnic Minorities in Films|url=https://www.rispthestudentrecord.com/post/the-rise-of-ethnic-minorities-in-films|date=August 15, 2022}}

=Banong=

Banong ({{Langx|th|บานง}} {{IPA|th|bāː.nōŋ}}) is a type of blouse traditionally worn by women in the southern border provinces of Thailand, including Pattani, Yala, and Narathiwat.{{citation|title=Banong บานง อัตลักษณ์ความเป็นพื้นถิ่นในวิถีมลายูสู่วิถีแบรนด์บานงจังหวัดยะลา|lang=th|date=September 2, 2022|url=https://yala.prd.go.th/th/content/category/detail/id/370/iid/118195}} It has a collar and is cut in front, with a folded placket all the way to the hem. The fabric used to make Banong is often thin and sheer, and may be embroidered with patterns on the hem. It is typically worn during religious and cultural events like weddings, funerals, and dance performances. The name Banong comes from the word Bandung in Middle Malay, which refers to a city in the west of Java Island, Indonesia. While Banong is popular among Thai Muslims in the southern border provinces, it is also worn by Thai Buddhists and Thai Chinese in the region.{{citation|title="บานง" เครื่องแต่งกายของสตรีไทยมุสลิมชายแดนใต้|access-date=March 30, 2023|url=https://www.finearts.go.th/promotion/view/22582--%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%87--%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89|lang=th}}{{citation|title=การแต่งกายสตรีภาคใต้ชายแดน บานง|url=https://wb.yru.ac.th/bitstream/yru/1180/1/%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%87.pdf|lang=th|access-date=March 30, 2023}}

Formal costume

File:Taxi reflected in a shop window in Bandkok.jpg.]]

The formal Thai costume, {{lang|th|ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม}} ({{RTGS|chut thai phra ratcha niyom}}, literally, 'Thai dress of royal endorsement'), includes several sets of dress, designed as the Thai national costume at formal occasions. Although described and intended for use as national costume, it is of relatively modern origins, having been conceived in the second half of the 20th century.