Trinity Chain Pier

File:Coastrailwaysout.jpg

The Firth of Forth is an estuary{{refn|Geologically a glacial valley or fjord; firth is cognate with fjord.|group=nb}} which separates Edinburgh, Scotland's capital, from the peninsula of Fife. Traffic across the firth has been important for centuries;{{refn|In the 20th century, following the ascendancy of motorised road transport, the M90 motorway and the Forth Road Bridge (1964) were built.{{sfnp|Charlesworth|1984|p=177}} The construction of the Queensferry Crossing (expected to open in 2016{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-33911664|title=Queensferry Crossing becomes UK's tallest bridge|date=13 August 2015|work=BBC Online|access-date=31 August 2015}}) underlines the continuing importance of this transport axis.{{cite web|url=http://www.transportscotland.gov.uk/project/forth-replacement-crossing/frc-faqs|title=FRC FAQs|publisher=Transport Scotland|access-date=31 August 2015}}|group=nb}} as well as having industry and agriculture, Fife lies on the shortest route from Edinburgh to the north of the country. The closest bridge to Edinburgh for many years was at Stirling, {{convert|36|mile|km}} to the west.{{cite book|title=Encyclopædia Britannica|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zD47AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA768|volume=7|year=1842|publisher=A. and C. Black|page=768}} Queensferry, {{convert|10|mile|km}} west, was named after Queen Margaret who crossed by ferry from there in 1070.{{sfnp|Meighan|2014}} Traffic across the firth was regulated and taxed as early as 1467, and was historically centred on the route from Leith to Kinghorn. A ferry from Newhaven to Burntisland started in 1792. Travel by sailing boat and stagecoach was slow and unreliable; Walter Scott in The Antiquary (1816) described the journey from Edinburgh to cross at Queensferry as being "like a fly through a glue-pot".{{sfnp|Smith|Anderson|1995|p=20}}{{sfnp|Scott|1819|p=19}}

The late 18th and early 19th centuries saw a series of revolutions in transport during the Industrial Revolution. Turnpike trusts built over {{convert|2000|mile|km}} of roads in Scotland between 1790 and 1810.{{sfnp|Foyster|Whatley|2010|p=261}} The Forth and Clyde (1790) and the Union Canals (1822) carried cargo between the west and east coasts, but horse-drawn canal boats were too slow to provide much advance for passengers.{{sfnp|Griffiths|Morton|2010|p=149}}{{refn|An 1828 account describes the journey from Edinburgh to Glasgow via the Chain Pier and Grangemouth, then by the Forth and Clyde, as taking more than thirteen hours, when a stagecoach could do it in four and a half, for half the cost.{{cite news|title=Rough Notes On a Ride to the North|date=11 September 1828|work=Dublin Evening Packet and Correspondent|page=4}}|group=nb}} The steamboat was pioneered in the Firth of Clyde and Glasgow to the west,{{refn|The first commercially successful steamboat in Europe, Henry Bell's Comet of 1812,{{sfnp|Derry|Williams|1960|p=328}} triggered a rapid expansion of steam services on the Clyde,{{sfnp|Clark|2007|p=162}} and by 1840 there were fifty-seven Clyde steamers.{{sfnp|Freeman|1991|p=265-266}}|group=nb}} and made sea travel faster and more predictable for coastal and island communities.{{sfnp|Griffiths|Morton|2010|p=148-149}} Trinity Chain Pier was built because the popularity of the new steam-powered vessels had caused congestion at Leith and Newhaven,{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=42}} and sandbars had built up at both harbours, restricting access at low tide.{{sfnp|Curious|1833|p=24}} It was deemed easier to build a new facility than to negotiate more space at Newhaven harbour.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=23}}

File:Trinitychainpierplan.jpg

The pier was proposed by Lieutenant George Crichton of the London, Leith, Edinburgh and Glasgow Steam Navigation Company.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=42}} In 1820 the Lord Provost and magistrates of Edinburgh granted the company permission for the pier's construction.{{cite news|title=Law Intelligence|date=23 November 1861|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=3}} The company then transferred the permission to the Trinity Pier Company who were to administer construction and operate the pier,{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=23}} and they in turn commissioned Captain Samuel Brown to design the pier as his first independent project.{{sfnp|Kawada|2010|p=30}} Alexander Scott WS, one of the trustees of the company, granted permission to build the pier on his land.{{cite book|last=Scotland. Court of Session|title=Cases Decided in the Court of Session|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-aoDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA925|year=1836|publisher=Bell & Bradfute|page=925}} Scott and Alexander Stevenson were directors of the Trinity Pier Company, and Crichton was treasurer.{{sfnp|Erredge|1862|p=314}} It cost £4000 to build.{{cite book|title=The Topographical, Statistical, and Historical Gazetteer of Scotland: I-Z|url=https://archive.org/details/topographicalvo21842scot|year=1842|publisher=A. Fullarton|page=[https://archive.org/details/topographicalvo21842scot/page/400 400]}}{{refn|Equivalent to £349,000 in 2015 values, when adjusted for historic opportunity cost.{{cite web|url=http://www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/result.php?year_source=1821&amount=4000&year_result=2015|title=Measuring Worth|access-date=24 August 2015}}|group=nb}}

Brown (1776–1852) was a veteran of the Napoleonic Wars and had taken part in the capture of a superior French ship in 1805.{{sfnp|Marshall|2010|p=20}} He patented his method of building suspension bridges in 1817.{{sfnp|Skempton|2002|p=86}} He designed the extant 1820 Union Bridge near Berwick-upon-Tweed, which was the biggest suspension bridge in the world when built,{{sfnp|Kawada|2010|p=30}} and the first in Britain to carry vehicles.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=37}}

While serving in the Royal Navy, Brown had experimented with using chain instead of rope in rigging sailing ships, and in 1808 he patented a new kind of wrought-iron chain. He sold the design to the Admiralty, which used it as anchor cable on ships.{{sfnp|Skempton|2002|p=86}} Brown considered that using piles to support a pier was superior to the traditional method of building in stone, because it was more economical to build and easier for ships to dock with. He cited pile-supported piers at Yarmouth, Ostend and Kronstadt which had been successful for long periods based on this design.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=26}} Brown had used chains in his designs for some of Britain's first suspension bridges; he realised that chains made out of eye bolts joined were stronger than traditional designs based on shorter links.{{sfnp|Kawada|2010|p=30}} He was regarded as a "leading promoter" of suspension bridges.{{sfnp|Skempton|2002|p=86}} He proposed that suspension piers could support military and rescue operations.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=27}} On 14 August 1822 Brown married Mary Horne from Edinburgh.{{sfnp|Marshall|2010|p=27}} After the pier at Trinity he went on to build the similar but much larger Royal Suspension Chain Pier in Brighton in 1823. It was destroyed by a storm in 1896.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=69}}

File:Plaqueoldchainpierpub.jpg

The pier was {{convert|700|feet|m}} long{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}} with a {{convert|4|ft|m|adj=mid|-wide}} passenger deck. This comprised three {{convert|209|ft|m|adj=mid|-long}} wooden spans suspended {{convert|10|feet|m}} above high water from lengths of wrought-iron chain connecting cast-iron standards to the shore. Each standard was in the shape of an arch which the passengers walked through.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}}{{cite journal|title=Suspension-Bridges in Modern Times|year=1836|journal=The Saturday Magazine|publisher=John William Parker|volume=7|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Gz4xAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA212|page=212}} By 1838 the passenger deck had rails fitted to assist in moving large items of luggage.{{cite news|title=Steam Betwixt Dundee and Edinburgh Every Lawful Day, In Five Hours!|date=3 May 1838|work=Perthshire Courier|page=1}} The chain was made of eye bolts about {{convert|10|feet|m}} long, which, uniquely among Brown's designs, varied in thickness according to the load they were expected to carry.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=43–44}}{{sfnp|Skempton|2002|p=87}}{{refn|The bolts were {{convert|2|in|mm|1}} in diameter at the suspension points, {{convert|1+7/8|in|mm|1}} further out and {{convert|1+3/4|in|mm|1}} at the centres of the spans.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}}|group=nb}} The long eye bolts were joined by shorter linking plates,{{sfnp|Kawada|2010|p=29}} and hung in a catenary {{convert|14|feet|m}} from the tops of the standards.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=25}} The chains crossed the standards on cast-iron saddles.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=45}} The three seaward standards were built on platforms{{refn|Brown called them "piers".{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}}|group=nb}} anchored to wooden piles driven into the foreshore. The largest platform, which formed the head of the pier, was {{convert|60|feet|m}} by {{convert|50|feet|m}}, and covered in {{convert|2|inch|mm|adj=on}} thick planks.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}} The length of the pier head was extended to {{convert|70|feet|m}} prior to November 1821.{{sfnp|Erredge|1862|p=314}} It was supported on 46 piles driven {{convert|8|feet|m}} into the clay seabed.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=43}} At the landward end the chain passed over a solid masonry construction, {{convert|6|feet|m}} square and {{convert|20|feet|m}} high,{{refn|Part of this survives inside the modern pub, and is marked with a plaque.|group=nb}} and was then anchored at a 45° angle {{convert|10|feet|m}} into the hard clay soil. The seaward end of the chain went over the outer piles at the same angle, and the piles were braced with diagonal supports to take the sideways load.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}} There was a {{convert|4|ft|m|adj=mid|-high}} wrought-iron railing along the length of the deck,{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=25}} straight diagonal members connecting the deck to the standards, and iron bracing under the deck. The pier was designed for passenger use only, and moved noticeably when walked on.{{sfnp|Drewry|1832|p=45}}

Brown tested the pier on 21 September 1821 by having 21 tons of pig-iron ballast placed on the spans{{sfnp|Stark|1834|p=315}} while it was in use by passengers.{{sfnp|Erredge|1862|p=314}}{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=26}}{{cite journal|title=Volumes 87–88|journal=The Scots Magazine|date=1821|publisher=Sands, Brymer, Murray and Cochran|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=F1w3AQAAMAAJ&pg=RA1-PA481|page=481}} The French engineer Claude-Louis Navier inspected the pier in 1821, and reported that the structure was strengthened against wind loads in 1822, following its behaviour during storms in its first winter.{{sfnp|Kranakis|1997|p=151}}

File:NasmythThe Old Chain Pier, Newhaven.jpg]]

Poor weather delayed the driving of the piles, which took from March to July 1821.{{sfnp|Brown|1822|p=24}} The pier was decorated with flags for its opening ceremony on 14 August.{{sfnp|Wallace|1997|p=103}} Steamboats fired salutes from alongside the pier. Three hundred people walked from the Trinity Hotel to the pier, and boarded a steamboat for a brief excursion, while a band played from a second vessel. The opening was attended by the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, the local magistrates, as well as Crichton, Ramsay, Scott, Stevenson, and the other proprietors of the company.{{cite news|title=Opening of the Suspension Pier at Trinity|date=25 August 1821|work=The Scotsman|page=271}} Admiral Robert Otway (commander-in-chief of naval forces at Leith), General Duff, Sir George Mackenzie, George Baird (the Principal of Edinburgh University), Robert Jameson, John Leslie, William Wallace, and Brown the designer were also present. When they returned they took refreshment in a tent at the head of the pier.{{cite news|title=Suspension Pier at Newhaven|date=16 August 1821|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=3}}

The pier served ferry traffic between Edinburgh and ports on the Firth of Forth and beyond, and was usable at all states of the tide. Leith and Newhaven were having problems with sandbars leading to vessels being trapped and damaged at low water, but the Chain Pier had {{convert|6|ft|8|in|m}} of water at the very lowest tides,{{sfnp|Curious|1833|p=24}} and could serve vessels when Leith and Newhaven were unable to.{{cite news|title=Harbours in the Firth of Forth|date=26 April 1837|work=The Scotsman|page=2}} In its first year the pier made a profit of £200,{{cite news|title=Summary|date=14 February 1835|work=The Scotsman|page=2}}{{refn|£{{Inflation|UK|200|1822|fmt=c}} in modern purchasing power.{{Inflation-fn|UK|df=y}}|group=nb}} and there was a proposal to improve the facilities for passengers and other visitors, including having telescopes to view the ferries. Traffic from as far afield as Aberdeen and London was mentioned, and the pier was referred to as "ingenious and beautiful".{{cite news|title=Chain Pier at Trinity|date=27 April 1822|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=3}} By late 1823 there was a small shop at the pier head.{{cite news|title=No title|date=3 September 1823|work=The Scotsman|page=566}}

In 1822 the organisers of King George IV's visit to Edinburgh considered using the pier for his landing, but following protests they chose Leith harbour instead.{{sfnp|Hutton|1995|p=53}} The "New Cut" was built for the proposed royal parade from the Chain Pier to the city centre; it later became Craighall Road.{{sfnp|Wallace|1984|p=27}} In the same year, the Brilliant became the first steam packet to call at Anstruther, en route from the Chain Pier to Aberdeen.{{cite news|title=Anstruther Harbour|date=23 November 1904|work=Dundee Courier|page=4}}

The existing ferry operators tried to maintain their monopoly over the shortest crossings to Fife for several years. Ferries from the Chain Pier were prevented from landing at Dysart, Kirkcaldy, Aberdour and all ports in between. This was confirmed in a court hearing in December 1821, in which the existing interdict on ferries from the pier to Kirkcaldy was maintained and extended.{{cite book|last=Session|first=Scotland. Court of|title=Cases Decided in the Court of Session|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=kqgDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA220|access-date=16 September 2015|year=1822|publisher=Bell & Bradfute|pages=219–220}} This was seen as being detrimental to the quality of service.{{cite news|title=Front Page|date=15 April 1826|work=The Scotsman|page=233}} By August 1829 ferries to Dysart were permitted, and a flag was raised at the Chain Pier in celebration.{{cite news|title=Correspondence|date=29 August 1829|work=The Scotsman|page=559}} Ferries to Grangemouth connected with the Forth and Clyde Canal.

In 1823 the piles were discovered to be under attack from the marine crustacean Limnoria terebrans, informally referred to as the 'gribble worm'.{{sfnp|Buckland|2008|p=188}} It was about {{convert|1/6|inch|mm}} long, and bored holes in the piles, reducing their strength.{{sfnp|Brewster|1828|p=157–158}} After many attempts to secure and repair them, in 1830 the piles had to be replaced and sheathed in iron. James Anderson accomplished the difficult and dangerous task of replacing the timbers while maintaining the tension in the chains to keep the bridge standing.{{sfnp|Skempton|2002|p=15}}{{sfnp|Topping|1990|p=52}}{{refn|Anderson (1763–1861) had earlier made an unsuccessful proposal to build a suspension bridge across the firth at Queensferry.{{sfnp|Skempton|2002|p=15}}|group=nb}} The costs involved put the company into debt and prevented the payment of a dividend.

In mid-1830 the Royal George carried 8,168 passengers to Dysart, Leven and Largo in a two-month period, as well as 1,181 pleasure trippers who did not land in Fife.{{cite news|title=Shameful Deception! Caution to the Public.|date=12 August 1830|work=Fife Herald|page=1}} In 1831 the Victory and Lady of the Lake made daily sailings from the Chain Pier to the same destinations. The lowest fare to Largo was 2 shillings.{{refn|Equivalent to £{{Inflation|UK|0.1|1831|r=2}}.{{Inflation-fn|UK|df=y}}|group=nb}} Stagecoach connections were available from there to Anstruther and St Andrews.{{cite news|title=Advertisement|date=14 April 1831|work=Fife Herald|page=1}}

On 18 September 1832 the exiled and bankrupt French King Charles X used the pier to leave Scotland for Hamburg.{{sfnp|Wallace|1984|p=27}} On 4 June 1833 the ferry Benlomond caught fire just after leaving the pier for Stirling. The Lion and the Stirling Castle rescued all 220 passengers from the ferry before it sank in shallow water west of the pier, 40 minutes after departure.{{cite news|title=Destruction of the Benlomond Steampacket|date=5 June 1833|work=The Scotsman|page=3}}

In 1834 a clock and a large bell were placed at the entrance to the pier. The bell was rung just before each steamer's departure time in order to prevent delays.{{cite news|title=Chain Pier|date=19 July 1834|work=The Scotsman|page=3}} That year there were ferries from Trinity to Stirling, Alloa, Charlestown, Aberdour, Dysart, Leven, and Largo.{{cite book|title=Pollock's new guide through Edinburgh|date=1834|publisher=Pollock & Co.|url=https://archive.org/details/pollocksnewguid00unkngoog|page=[https://archive.org/details/pollocksnewguid00unkngoog/page/n203 181]}} In 1835 a journey to Dundee cost 5 shillings, or 3/- for steerage.{{refn|Equivalent to £{{Inflation|UK|0.25|1835|r=2}} and £{{Inflation|UK|0.15|1835|r=2}} respectively.{{Inflation-fn|UK|df=y}}|group=nb}} The Rothesay left the Chain Pier at 6:30 am and returned from Dundee at 2 pm each day during the summer.{{cite news|title=Classified advert|date=28 February 1835|work=The Scotsman|page=3}} Other destinations by 1842 included Crombie Point, Bo'ness and Limekilns. The Stirling Castle made a pleasure trip to the Bass Rock and the Isle of May from the pier in 1832.{{cite news|title=Pleasure excursion to the Island of May|date=27 June 1832|work=The Scotsman|page=3}} In 1836 the steam packet from the Chain Pier to Dundee was advertised as carrying mail, including parcels and light goods.{{cite news|title=Daily Conveyance to Edinburgh, at the Reduced Fares|date=30 June 1836|work=Perthshire Advertiser|page=1}}

File:Chainpiercalotypeedit.jpg of the pier in 1840]]

Early in its life, Alexander Nasmyth, who was a keen amateur engineer, depicted the pier in a watercolour painting; the work, "The Old Chain Pier, Newhaven", belongs to the Scottish National Gallery.{{refn|In the National Gallery, the date for the painting is given as 1819. This may be a cataloguing error; many of the dates were supplied by the artist's son after his death.|group=nb}} In 2002 it featured in an exhibition along with the contemporary Edinburgh paintings of Turner.{{cite news|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/art-lovers-get-a-look-behind-the-scenes-1-939009|title=Art lovers get a look behind the scenes|date=11 January 2002|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=24|access-date=28 August 2015}} A calotype of the pier taken in 1840 was among a collection of 206 early photographs of Edinburgh discovered in an auction in Swindon in 2002. The National Library of Scotland bought them for over £200,000{{refn|£{{Inflation|UK|233,997|2002|r=0|fmt=c}} at 2015 prices.{{Inflation-fn|UK|df=y}}|group=nb}} and placed the images online.{{cite news|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/haunting-images-of-city-back-in-the-light-1-855899|title=Haunting images of city back in the light|date=19 November 2002|work=The Scotsman|access-date=10 September 2015}}

In 1835 the total number of passengers using Newhaven harbour and the Chain Pier was estimated at 400,000 per year,{{cite news|title=City of Edinburgh Railway|date=28 November 1835|work=The Scotsman|page=4}} but the number of ferries using the pier began to decline as Leith and Newhaven improved their harbour facilities. In 1834 there had been rival plans to build a large new harbour, either at Trinity or Granton.{{cite news|title=Mr. Cubitt's Report on Leith Harbour and Docks, &c|date=8 October 1834|work=The Scotsman|page=4}} The latter was chosen and in 1838 the first phase of the Duke of Buccleuch's new harbour opened at Granton,{{cite web|url=http://www.grantonhistory.org/harbour/harbour_handbook_1937_text.htm|title=Granton History: Granton Harbour Handbook 1937 (text)|year=1937|access-date=23 August 2015}} causing Chain Pier traffic to fall even further.{{sfnp|Wallace|1997|p=104}}

In the early 19th century, a fashion for sea bathing had gripped Britain. The activity was pursued for pleasure and the health benefits it was thought to confer.{{sfnp|Feltham|1813|p=iii}} The Alloa Steam Packet Company bought the pier in 1840,{{sfnp|Grant|1880|p=303}} and they leased it to John Greig, who installed changing cubicles. Male bathers paid one penny to use the pier.{{sfnp|Wallace|1997|p=104}} By 1842 the pier was mainly used by bathers.{{cite news|title=Heroic Conduct – Gentleman saved from Drowning|date=27 August 1842|work=The Scotsman|page=2}}

In the 1840s the development of the railway network made travel vastly quicker and more accessible.{{sfnp|Griffiths|Morton|2010|p=151}}{{refn|{{convert|1,200|mi|km}} of track were laid down in Scotland in the space of a few years.{{sfnp|Marwick|1964|p=87}}|group=nb}} From 1842 the Edinburgh, Leith and Newhaven Railway provided access to the pier for ferry passengers and bathers, initially with horse-drawn trains running from Scotland Street in Canonmills to Trinity railway station, the original northern terminus of the line. In 1845 a reduced fare crossing on the Royal Tar was advertised; steerage from Trinity to Leven or Largo was now 1/2,{{refn|Equivalent to £{{Inflation|UK|0.0583|1845|r=2}}.{{Inflation-fn|UK|df=y}}|group=nb}} and connecting trains from Scotland Street were available.{{cite news|title=Important Reduction of Fares|date=12 June 1845|work=Northern Warder and General Advertiser for the Counties of Fife, Perth and Forfar|page=1}} The line was well-used{{cite news|title=Edinburgh, Leith and Granton Railway|page=3|date=15 February 1845|work=The Scotsman}} and the rail company replaced Trinity station with a new one in 1846 when they extended the line to the new harbour at Granton.{{refn|In 1847 they opened a new city-centre terminus at Canal Street, on the site of the modern Edinburgh Waverley station. It involved a steep gradient through a tunnel, which was operated by rope-hauled trains.{{sfnp|Smith|Anderson|1995|p=20}} Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about "The tunnel to the Scotland Street Station, the sight of the two guards upon the brake..."{{sfnp|Stevenson|2015|p=194}}|group=nb}} The Edinburgh and Northern Railway opened a railway across Fife in 1847, absorbed the Edinburgh, Leith and Newhaven Railway in 1848,{{cite journal|year=1848|title=The Railway Chronicle: Joint-stock Companies Journal. Register of Traffic|publisher=J. Francis|page=347|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pJRMAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA347|access-date=6 September 2015}} and started the world's first train ferry from Granton to Burntisland in 1850.{{sfnp|Meighan|2014}}{{refn|The pioneering slipway was designed by Thomas Bouch (1822–1880) whose first Tay Bridge (1878) collapsed in a storm in December 1879 killing everyone on board a train that was crossing it.{{cite web|url=http://www.railwaysarchive.co.uk/documents/BoT_TayInquiry1880.pdf|title=Tay Bridge Disaster: Report Of The Court of Inquiry|access-date=12 September 2015}} He was personally blamed for the disaster and died soon after.{{cite web|url=http://technology.open.ac.uk/materials/about_us/isr1707lowres.pdf|title=Forensic engineering: a reappraisal of the Tay Bridge disaster|last1=Lewis|first1=Peter |first2=Ken |last2=Reynolds |publisher=Open University |page=296 |date=2002 |access-date=12 September 2015|location=Milton Keynes}}|group=nb}}{{refn|A second train ferry from Tayport to Broughty Ferry allowed through services from Edinburgh to Dundee and Aberdeen.|group=nb}}{{refn|Passenger services to Trinity ceased in 1925, and the line is now a footpath. The former station survives as a private house.|group=nb}}

In June 1847 Captain John Bush, of the Kirkcaldy and London Shipping Company, married Margaret Greig, daughter of a shipmaster, at the pier.{{cite news|title=Married|date=24 June 1847|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=3}} In 1849 a lifebuoy and rope were provided at the pier head for swimmers who got into difficulty.{{cite news|title=Melancholy Accident|date=11 July 1849|work=The Scotsman|page=3}} A ladder leading into the sea was provided for swimmers, in addition to the stairs which were for use by steamboat passengers.{{cite news|title=To the Editor of the Caledonian Mercury|date=19 April 1849|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=3}} By the 1850s the pier was falling into disrepair,{{cite news|url=http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/heritage/lost-edinburgh-portobello-pier-1-3358999|title=Lost Edinburgh: Portobello Pier|date=31 March 2014|work=The Scotsman|access-date=4 September 2015}} but it was still popular with bathers, and early-morning trains were advertised allowing for a swim before work.{{sfnp|Wallace|1997|p=104-105}} There was a gymnasium at the head of the pier,{{cite web|url=http://www.grantonhistory.org/buildings/chain_pier.htm|title=Granton History: The Chain Pier|access-date=22 August 2015}} and the Forth Swimming Club was based there from its inception in 1850.{{cite news|title=The Old Chain Pier At Trinity|date=13 September 1920|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=4}} They organised swimming competitions, including "fast swimming" and "long diving" which were, respectively, a {{convert|300|yard|m|adj=on}} race and an underwater endurance contest.{{sfnp|Marshall|1985|p=62}} "Deep diving" involved retrieving objects from the bottom in {{convert|20|feet|m}} of water{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club|date=23 July 1859|work=The Scotsman|page=2}} then surfacing through a floating lifebuoy.{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club and Humane Society|date=24 July 1873|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}} A longer race was from Newhaven harbour to the Chain Pier, a distance of {{convert|550|yards|m}}. In 1864 the winning time was 11 minutes and 35 seconds.{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club – Long Distance Match|date=26 August 1864|work=The Scotsman|page=2}} Two floating platforms were moored east of the pier;{{cite news|title=The Chain Pier|date=23 September 1865|work=The Scotsman|page=7}} the closer one was about {{convert|20-25|yard|m}} out.{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club|date=26 July 1864|work=The Scotsman|page=2}} In July 1858 an attempt was made to restart ferry services from the pier; this caused annoyance to swimmers.{{cite news|title=Bathing at the Chain Pier|date=10 July 1858|work=Edinburgh Evening Courant|page=2}}

In 1859 the Colonial Life Assurance Company acquired the pier, and from about 1860 the Eckford family leased the pier from them. The owners employed a caretaker, but the pier became dilapidated, and required expensive repairs to keep open.{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club|date=25 July 1860|work=The Scotsman|page=2}} In June 1860 when the Royal Navy's Channel Fleet was visiting Queensferry, there were three trips a day from the pier to see the fleet.{{cite news|title=Channel Fleet|date=12 June 1860|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=1}} In November 1861 the Commissioners of Leith Docks challenged the operation of the pier in a case at the Court of Session, as they argued that the right to build and operate the pier was not transferable from the London, Leith, Edinburgh and Glasgow Steam Navigation Company to the subsequent owners and operators. In February 1862 it was offered for sale, with the suggestion that it could be re-installed elsewhere as either a pier or a bridge.{{cite news|title=For Sale, For the Purpose of Removal, the Chain Pier at Trinity near Edinburgh|date=18 February 1862|work=Edinburgh Evening Courant|page=1}} Some locals were concerned that the pier's opening on Sundays for swimming would distract people from going to church; the availability of beer was also noted.{{cite news|title=Trinity Chain Pier on Sunday|date=29 June 1866|work=Edinburgh Evening Courant|page=6}} By 1869, as well as the train service, there were regular omnibuses from the Mound to the Chain Pier and also to the Trinity Baths, a nearby sea bath{{cite news|title=Trinity Baths and Chain Pier|date=4 August 1869|work=Edinburgh Evening Courant|page=2}} which had opened prior to 1829.{{cite news|title=Eligible bathing quarters|date=11 June 1829|work=Edinburgh Evening Courant|page=1}} Hot and cold sea water were available by the pitcher there.{{cite news|title=Trinity Baths|date=15 September 1857|work=Edinburgh Evening Courant|page=1}} On 26 July 1879, 3,000 spectators lined the shore to see the Scottish Swimming Championship, which took place between the Chain Pier and Granton breakwater. It was won by Wilson of Glasgow with a time of 17 minutes. All the competitors used an overhand stroke.{{cite news|title=The Scottish Swimming Championship|date=28 July 1879|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}} The popularity of sea bathing declined as the water became increasingly polluted with sewage and industrial waste, and the focus of bathing moved to indoor pools.{{sfnp|Wallace|1997|p=105}} Sea bathing continued at Portobello beach, {{convert|3.4|miles|km}} east of the city centre.{{sfnp|Marshall|1985|p=62}}{{sfnp|Wallace|1984|p=26}}{{refn|Seafield Baths opened in 1813 as Leith's first indoor bathing facility.{{sfnp|Marshall|1985|p=62}} Portobello Pier opened in 1871. It was designed by Thomas Bouch, was {{convert|1250|feet|m}} long, and was demolished in 1917.{{cite news|url=http://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/portobello-promenade-pier-designs-revealed-1-3790958|title=Portobello Promenade pier designs revealed|work=Edinburgh Evening News|date=3 June 2015|access-date=5 September 2015}} Leith's first indoor swimming pool was the Victoria Baths in 1896.{{sfnp|Marshall|1985|p=62}}|group=nb}}

File:Oldchainpierafter.jpg

From 1 March 1864 until 31 August 1865, Captain Thomas measured sea temperatures from the Chain Pier. The data supported the acceptance of the Gulf Stream as a mechanism to explain the warmer seas around Scotland, especially in the west.{{sfnp|Petermann|von Freeden|Mühry|1871|p=244–246}} In 1869, as an experiment into using electric light for lighthouses, Thomas Stevenson had an underwater cable installed from the eastern breakwater of Granton harbour. An operator on the harbour wall, with a switch and a Bunsen cell (an early form of battery), controlled a light on the end of the Chain Pier from half a mile (800 m) away.{{sfnp|Stevenson|2009|p=165–166}}{{cite journal|title=The Nautical Magazine and Naval Chronicle for 1869|date=28 March 2013|publisher=Cambridge Library Collection|pages=614–615}}{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=XGdNAAAAIBAJ&pg=2869%2C5439207|title=Scientific Items|newspaper=Montreal Witness|date=7 July 1871|page=4|access-date=1 September 2015}}

There were many drownings{{refn|Some examples:{{cite news|title=Two Persons Drowned at Trinity|date=7 February 1878|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}}{{cite news|title=Sad Case of Drowning at Trinity|date=29 August 1878|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}}{{cite news|title=Man Drowned at Trinity|date=27 May 1880|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}}{{cite news|title=Edinburgh Gentleman Drowned at Trinity|date=25 December 1888|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=3}}{{cite news|title=Leith Labourer Drowned at Newhaven|date=17 October 1904|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}}{{cite news|title=No title|date=28 July 1824|work=The Scotsman|page=567}}{{cite news|title=Fatal Boating Accident at Newhaven|date=15 July 1892|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}}|group=nb}} and rescues{{refn|Some examples:{{cite news|title=Bathing Accident|date=18 September 1843|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=3}}{{cite news|title=Narrow Escape and Gallant Rescue|date=10 August 1861|work=Caledonian Mercury|page=2}}{{cite news|title=Narrow Escape From Drowning|date=29 June 1885|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}}{{cite news|title=Attempted Suicide at Trinity Chain Pier|date=24 April 1895|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=4}}|group=nb}} from the pier over the years, and from early on a focus of the swimming clubs was life-saving.{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club and Humane Society|date=31 August 1865|work=The Scotsman|page=2}} In 1871 the Royal Humane Society awarded James Crichton a badge and sash for saving two lives in a week, the second from the Chain Pier.{{sfnp|Fevyer|Barclay|2013|p=77}} In 1880 the Lorne Swimming Club awarded a silver medal to T Shepherd for saving the life of a trumpeter from Leith Fort,{{cite news|title=Lorne Swimming Club Soiree|date=11 December 1880|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}} and in 1882 the Forth Swimming Club and Humane Society awarded a certificate to James H Walls for saving two swimmers from the pier that July.{{cite news|title=Forth Swimming Club and Humane Society|date=18 November 1882|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}} In 1889 ladies' swimming lessons were advertised, as well as gymnastics, massage and "medical electricity".{{cite news|title=Classified advertisement|date=6 August 1889|work=The Scotsman|page=1}} In 1890 the Forth Bridge at Queensferry enabled direct rail travel from Edinburgh to Fife; 20,000 trains had crossed it by 1910.{{sfnp|Jennings|2004|p=289}}{{refn|About 60,000 trains cross the bridge every year in the early 21st century.{{cite web|url=http://www.railway-technology.com/projects/forth-rail-bridge-firth-scotland/|title=Forth Rail Bridge, Firth of Forth – Railway Technology|access-date=6 September 2015}} The Granton-Burntisland ferry service survived until the Second World War, and an attempt was made to revive it using a catamaran in 1991–93.{{sfnp|Meighan|2014}} In 2007 Stagecoach trialled a hovercraft service from Portobello to Kirkcaldy.{{sfnp|Veitch|2009|p=290}}|group=nb}}

The pier was badly damaged on 18 October 1898 by a storm which lasted four days and caused great destruction all over Scotland. Several steam and sailing vessels were sunk or driven ashore and wrecked in the vicinity of the pier.{{sfnp|Hutton|1995|p=84-85}} The storm completely removed the deck and chains, destroyed the platform closest to shore, and damaged the remaining two platforms (the pier head and the second support platform).{{cite news|title=The Great Gale: Extraordinary Destruction of Property|date=19 October 1898|work=The Scotsman|page=9}} The pier was never repaired and its ruin was eroded away by the sea. Some remnants of the wooden piles that supported the pier can still be seen at low tide.

File:Oldchainpier2015.jpg

The public house at the shore end was known as the Pier Bar in 1878.{{cite news|date=18 July 1878|title=Classified advertisements|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=1}} It was badly damaged in a fire in March 1898, which caused over £600{{refn|£{{Inflation|UK|600|1898|r=-3|fmt=c}} in modern purchasing power.{{Inflation-fn|UK|df=y}}|group=nb}} worth of damage.{{cite news|title=Fire at Trinity Chain Pier|date=7 March 1898|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=2}} It survived the pier's destruction later that year,{{sfnp|Hutton|1995|p=84}} and became known as the Old Chain Pier. It was run by Arthur Moss, whose name appeared on the building into the 1970s.{{cite web|url=http://www.grantonhistory.org/buildings/chain_pier_bar.htm|title=Granton History: The Old Chain Pier Bar|access-date=22 August 2015}} In June 1956 the ladies' toilet was added.{{cite web|url=http://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/info/20108/planning_decisions/913/historic_planning_records|title=Historic planning records|publisher=The City of Edinburgh Council|access-date=4 September 2015}} In the 1960s the landlady, Betty Moss, was known for encouraging customers to leave at closing time by waving a cutlass or a gun.{{sfnp|Le Vay|2004|p=70}} In 1979 permission was granted for an extension of the pub.{{cite web|url=https://www.thegazette.co.uk/Edinburgh/issue/20436/page/156/data.pdf|title=Applications for planning permission and/or listed building consent|work=The Gazette|access-date=7 September 2015}} The pub was fitted with a {{convert|60|cm|in|adj=on}} higher roof in 1983; it was owned by Drybrough's brewery by then. A conservatory was added in 1998. CAMRA selected it (jointly with the Guildford Arms) as Edinburgh's pub of the year in 2001.{{cite news|title=Real ale fans aficionados vote Guildford and Chain Pier top in city|date=23 December 2000|work=Edinburgh Evening News|page=14}}{{cite news|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/history-and-charm-at-the-old-chain-pier-1-1340595|title=History and charm at The Old Chain Pier|date=10 March 2007|work=The Scotsman|access-date=27 August 2015}}

The Old Chain Pier was rebuilt after a major fire in 2004.{{cite news|url=http://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/fire-guts-historic-city-pub-1-1010176|title=Fire guts historic city pub|date=29 April 2004|work=Edinburgh Evening News|access-date=26 August 2015}} It is the only building on the north side of Trinity Crescent, and part of the pub juts out over the sea. In 2007 the City of Edinburgh Council forced it to take down large awnings it had installed without planning permission following the smoking ban the previous year.{{cite news|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/chain-smokers-likely-to-lose-shelters-at-under-fire-pub-1-1338483|title=Chain smokers likely to lose shelters at under-fire pub|date=19 February 2007|work=The Scotsman|access-date=27 August 2015}}{{cite news|title=Time called on seafront pub's smoke shelters|page=11|date=23 February 2007|work=Edinburgh Evening News}} The pub was described during the process as "a twentieth century reconstruction of the original building". It is within the Trinity Conservation Area.{{cite news|title=Advert Application 061045771ADV at 32 Trinity Crescent Edinburgh EH5 3ED|last=Development Quality Sub-committee of the Planning Committee|publisher=City of Edinburgh Council}} It was refurbished in 2011, and now operates as a pub and restaurant. Its beers are Timothy Taylor Brewery's Landlord bitter, and a selection from Alechemy.{{cite web|url=http://whatpub.com/pubs/EDN/208/old-chain-pier-edinburgh|title=Old Chain Pier, Edinburgh Pub Details|work=whatpub.com|date=6 March 2015|access-date=28 August 2015}} The restaurant specialises in seafood.{{cite news|url=http://foodanddrink.scotsman.com/drink/the-most-beautiful-places-to-eat-in-edinburgh/|title=The most beautiful places to eat in Edinburgh|last=Johnstone|first=Lindsey|date=20 March 2015|work=The Scotsman|access-date=19 September 2015}} It has a gluten-free menu and children are welcome in the conservatory and mezzanine.{{cite web|url=https://food.list.co.uk/place/102221-old-chain-pier/|title=Old Chain Pier (32 Trinity Crescent, Newhaven, Edinburgh)|work=The List|access-date=19 September 2015}}

Notes

{{reflist|group=nb}}

Citations

{{reflist|30em}}

Bibliography

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{{refend}}

• [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0zOzucbQ_Q Flypast video on YouTube]
• [http://oldchainpier.com/ The modern pub's official website]
• [http://www.capitalcollections.org.uk/index.php?a=ZoomItem&key=QnsiTiI6MSwiUCI6eyJpdGVtX2lkIjoiNTY5MyJ9fQ==&pg=1&WINID=1440507742818#EOeUlHy5UwcAAAFPZDz0zg/5693 "Pier of Suspension, erected at Trinity", lithograph, Charles Joseph, 1825]

{{Piers in the United Kingdom}}

Category:Piers in Scotland

Category:1821 establishments in Scotland

Category:Buildings and structures demolished in 1898

Category:Chain piers

Category:Restaurants in Edinburgh

Category:Buildings and structures in Edinburgh

Category:Firth of Forth