Universal Genève

File:UG1937Logo.JPG

Started and briefly based in Le Locle, co-founder Ulysse Perret would relocate Universal to Geneva in 1919, solidifying the company's status as a Genève brand. During the company's tenure in much smaller Le Locle (Neuchâtel region), Perret had conceptualized the company as Universal Watch in

1894 with classmate Numa-Emile Descombes, both of whom were horology students at the time. Although Universal began only as a manufacturer and retailer of cases, crowns, dials and movements, the company whilst under Perret and Descombes patented the brand's first 24-hour indication watch.

After Descombes' death in 1897 at the age of 34, Perret recruited Louis Edouard Berthoud as a co-manufacturer of complications, and both briefly operated under the registered name Perret & Berthoud before switching to Universal Watch et Company (UWEC) Genève, Ltd. after relocating to Geneva. Under both trademarks, the horologists created various pocket and trench watches for both sides during World War I.{{cite book | last = Hughes | first = Graham | title = Modern jewelry: an international survey, 1890–1967 | page=250 | publisher = Crown | year = 1968 | asin = B002J7K548}} By 1925, the duo created the brand's first patented self-winding timepiece called the Auto Rem,{{cite book | last = Haines | first = Reyney | title = Vintage Wristwatches | page= 224 | publisher = Krause | date = April 12, 2010 | isbn = 978-1-4402-0409-8}} an octagon-shaped men's wristwatch with lozenge-styled hands and a 15-jewel movement.{{cite web | url = http://catalog.antiquorum.com/catalog.html?action=load&lotid=154&auctionid=54 | title = Universal Watch, Genève, Autorem, circa 1925. Swiss Patents No. 91051 and 91463 | publisher = Antiquorum | access-date=2011-10-01}}

Following Perret's death in 1933, his son would take over management and Universal would remain a family-run business for thirty more years.

File:Universal-Geneve Tri-Compax.jpg

After the pocketwatch started to lose usefulness in favor of the more convenient wristwatch during the first world war, Universal seized the opportunity by creating the Compur in 1933 and the Aero Compax ("Aviator's Compact Chronograph") in 1936,{{cite web | url = http://www.swisstime.ch/pgs/rwi-pgs-prod-lgs-en-idp-1849.html | title = Universal Genève Compax Limited Edition | publisher = SwissTime | access-date= 2011-04-17}} shortly before the start of World War II. In addition to its automatic "smooth sweep" timekeeping, the Compax was also equipped with a built-in stopwatch which made it a suitable device for soldiers during training exercises and full-fledged combat operations. The Compax was produced in many variations including the Moon Phase, Medico, Tri-, Uni-, and Master Vortex.

During the same period, Universal briefly collaborated with Parisian high fashion brand Hermès and designed the Pour Hermès ("For Hermès") chronographs, which featured square button registers, telemeters and tachometers, a movement containing a Breguet balance spring, and an Arabic-numeral dial.{{cite web | url = http://catalog.antiquorum.com/catalog.html?action=load&lotid=384&auctionid=206 | title = Pour Hermès Universal, Genève, case No. 605738. Made for Hermès circa 1935. Very fine and extremely rare 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button chronograph, register, telemeter and tachometer. | publisher = antiquorum.com | access-date = 2011-10-01 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20120118140733/http://catalog.antiquorum.com/catalog.html?action=load&lotid=384&auctionid=206 | archive-date = 2012-01-18 | url-status = dead }} Hermès' Paris headquarters would in turn act as a major sales hub for all Universal brand watches in Europe until the 1950s, while the Henri Stern Watch Agency in Manhattan, the U.S. distributorship of Patek Philippe, would be an official Universal Genève dealer in North America.{{cite magazine

| magazine= Esquire

| title=Apparel arts

| volume=22

| page=137

| year = 1952

}}

Universal's popularity with the chronographs caught the attention of high-ranking government officials throughout Europe, including the Dutch royal family, who granted the Swiss brand a royal warrant in 1939 to issue a military watch for the nation's army, with then-Queen Wilhelmina's initials embossed on the dial.{{cite book

| last = Wesolowski

| first = Z.M.

| title = Concise Guide to Military Timepieces

| page=68

| publisher = The Crowood Press

| date = August 23, 1999

| isbn = 1-86126-304-X

}} The Dutch army utilized this watch up until Nazi Germany bombed Rotterdam in May of the same year and occupied the Netherlands until 1945.

For female civilians during that era, Universal distributed the art deco "Couture Diamond" watch, which featured a mother of pearl dial rimmed with diamonds and manufactured in either gold, stainless steel or platinum metals. The feminine cuff watch, which earned Universal Genève the title of "watch couturier",{{cite web | url = http://www.swisstime.ch/pgs/rwi-pgs-prod-lgs-en-idp-729.html | title = SwissTime - UNIVERSAL GENEVE Couture Diamond | publisher = SwissTime.ch | access-date=2011-04-17}} was sold in affluent boutiques worldwide and was most popular among actresses, socialites and wives of world leaders.

The Martel Watch Company in Les Ponts-de-Martel had supplied movements for many of Universal Genève's chronographic timepieces since 1918, with Universal adapting the complications as Cal 285's. However, the mechanisms would be rechristened as Zenith 146's, 146D's and 146H's when competing Le Locle watchmaker Zenith acquired Martel, and effectively all of its patents, by 1960.{{cite magazine

| last = Kong

| first = W. W.

| magazine= Business Times

| title= The Allure of the Vintage Chronograph

| date = August 26, 2011

}}

File:Polerouterface.JPG

Arguably the most well-known Universal watch of the post-war era was the Polerouter. Designed by Gérald Genta, it was originally produced as the Polarouter in 1954, appearing with a Cal 138SS Bumper movement. The following year it was replaced with the innovative Cal 215 microtor movement which, with minor changes and a name change (from Polarouter to Polerouter, in 1955), was produced until late 1969.{{cite web | url = http://www.polerouter.de/index-english.htm | title = Universal-Genève Polerouter | access-date= 2008-07-21}} In its initial fifteen years of production, the watch was produced in many variations including the Polerouter de luxe, Polerouter Jet, Polerouter Super, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, and the Polerouter Sub diver's watch. The Polerouter's durability under extreme temperatures and fluctuating altitudes made it a preferred timepiece among Scandinavian Airlines' pilots who made flights over the arctic. The worldwide acclaim of the Polerouter Date was comparable to the reputation of similar Genève automatics like the Rolex Oyster Date and Omega Seamaster Date.

File:Universal-Geneve Whiteshadow.JPG

The Shadow series was first produced in 1965 and were the thinnest automatic watch movements at the time, with a thickness of only 2.3mm. This record was held until 1978.{{cite web | url = http://pictures.watchfans.org/weekly/week.htm | title = Universal Genève White Shadow / Gilt Shadow: Impressions of a very thin watch | publisher = Watch fans | access-date= 2008-07-21}} The Shadows were also designed by Genta and were available in 18K yellow and white gold as the Golden Shadow, in gilt as the Gilt Shadow, and in stainless steel as the White Shadow. The Shadow series watches contained the Caliber 66 micro rotor movement up until the mid 70s.

During the 1970s, Universal had been one of the few Swiss watch brands to introduce a quartz movement and phase out automatics, coinciding with an era now known as the "quartz crisis". While the company continued to use silver, gold, platinum and diamonds for its dials, cases, bands and bracelets, the switch to quartz oscillators was a cost-efficient alternative to automatic complications, which were considerably more expensive and more time-consuming to produce, and could not compete with the mass-produced growth of electronic movements.

Since the innovation of quartz technology had originated in Japan, Universal began to focus most of its attention on the Asian watch market, since a significant portion of company revenue was already centered in Hong Kong.{{cite journal | journal= Far Eastern Economic Review | page=38 | year = 1971}} Although Forbes still ranked Universal (in price) to Corum, IWC and Rolex, and as being more expensive than Omega, Longines and Baume et Mercier,{{cite magazine | last = Forbes | first = Bertie Charles | title = Forbes | page=286 | volume=126 | year = 1980}} the international marketing strategies and venture to quartz proved economically devastating for the brand, causing loss of capital among its holding companies, and in effect, the popularity of the brand itself.

After a difficult period in the 1980s and 1990s, Universal Genève released a series of watches with a new micro-rotor calibre which revisited the company's earlier success. Although still headquartered in Geneva, Universal Genève was purchased in 1989 by Hong Kong-based investment firm Stelux Holdings International, Ltd., which also owns Cyma,{{cite book | first1 = Roger | last1 = Strange | first2 = Limin | last2 = Wang | title = Trade and investment in China: the European experience | url = https://archive.org/details/tradeinvestmentc00slat | url-access = limited | page= [https://archive.org/details/tradeinvestmentc00slat/page/n200 182] | publisher = Routledge | year = 2009 | isbn = 978-0-415-18267-6}} another high-end Swiss watchmaker whose patents had been owned by Universal since 1918.{{cite web | url = http://www.tmquest.com/71109677.htm | title = CYMA | publisher = tmQuest | access-date= 2012-03-16}} During the late 1960s and early 1970s, Universal was owned by New York-based Bulova, an acquisition which expanded the manufacture's fame in Japanese and North American markets,{{cite book | last = Glasmeier | first = Amy K | title = Manufacturing Time: Global Competition in the Watch Industry, 1795–2000 | page= 187 | publisher = The Guilford Press | date = August 10, 2000 | isbn = 1-57230-589-4}} and led to stylistic collaborations with other watch or jewelry firms such as Tiffany's, Cartier SA and Movado.

As of 2011, Universal is an active member of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, maintains three offices in Switzerland and oversees La Chaux-de-Fonds-based watchmaker Cyma.{{cite web | url = http://www.fhs.ch/en/addresses.php?list=39 | title = The Swiss Watch Industry - Watch producers (direct FH members) | publisher = FHC | access-date = 2011-09-28 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20110828094002/http://www.fhs.ch/en/addresses.php?list=39 | archive-date = 2011-08-28 | url-status = dead }}

It was announced on 12th December 2023, that Stelux Holdings had sold the intellectual property of Universal Genève to Partners Group, the majority owner of Breitling SA.{{cite web |last1=Traina |first1=Anthony |title=It’s Back! Universal Genève To Relaunch Under The Same Ownership As Breitling |url=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/its-back-universal-geneve-to-relaunch-under-the-same-ownership-as-breitling |website=Hodinkee |access-date=14 January 2024}}{{cite web |last1=Farmelo |first1=Allen |title=Why Universal Genève Is Poised to Become the Most Important Watch Brand of the 21st Century |url=https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/universal-geneve-to-become-the-most-important-watch-brand-of-the-21st-century-1235998194/ |website=Robb Report |access-date=22 December 2024 |date=20 November 2024}}

In November 2024, Universal Genève announced the creation of three new Polerouter watches as unique pieces: one in steel, one in rose gold, and one in white gold with a custom bracelet. The first two were to be placed into the company's archive, and the third sent to auction. Robb Report reacted to the news by commenting that "Universal Genève Is Poised to Become the Most Important Watch Brand of the 21st Century". In an interview published later that month, Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling and Universal Genève, stated that "We want to be high-end but still commercial and successful." He also said that Universal Genève was "... not going to be fully contemporary and novel," but also would not be "a re-edition brand".{{cite web |last1=Goulard |first1=Brice |title=Interview: Georges Kern on what to expect for the return of Universal Genève in 2026 |url=https://ground.news/article/interview-georges-kern-on-what-to-expect-for-the-return-of-universal-geneve-in-2026 |website=Monochrome Watches |access-date=22 December 2024 |date=26 November 2024}}

Many celebrities, writers, business executives and diplomats from around the globe have owned both contemporary and vintage Universal Genève watches:

In the late 1990s, Playboy illustrator LeRoy Neiman appeared in a print campaign promoting Universal Genève, with Neiman pictured in his studio wearing a Universal Genève Golden Janus and his oil paintings displayed in the foreground.{{cite magazine

| last = Melton

| first = Mary

| title = The Country Club Collection

| magazine= Los Angeles Magazine

| volume=41

| issue=11

| page=75

| date = November 1996

}}

In his book, Marking Time: Collecting Watches and Thinking about Time, Simon & Schuster editor-in-chief Michael Korda recalled receiving a pink gold Universal Genève Tri-Compax from his uncle while attending Le Rosey boarding school in Switzerland, and cited the brand as piquing his interest in watches.{{cite book

| last = Korda

| first = Michael

| title = Marking Time: Collecting Watches and Thinking about Time

| page = [https://archive.org/details/markingtimecolle00kord/page/25 25]

| publisher = Barnes & Noble

| year = 2004

| isbn = 0-7607-3576-X

| url-access = registration

| url = https://archive.org/details/markingtimecolle00kord/page/25

}}

29th and 41st Argentine President Juan Perón was a wearer of a Universal Tri-Compax, as was 33rd U.S. President Harry S. Truman,{{cite book

| last = Haines

| first = Reyney

| title = Warman's Watches Field Guide

| page=335

| publisher = Krause Publications

| year = 2011

| isbn = 978-1-4402-1439-4

}} who donned the popular model at the Potsdam Conference. 45th U.S. President Donald Trump owned a Universal Genève Senna watch before donating the timepiece to Antiquorum for charity.{{cite web | url = http://www.antiquorum.com/catalog/lots/lot-85-54?page=6 | title = UNIVERSAL GENEVE "Senna" Chronometer Officially Certified, No. 41, Ref. 198.310. Donated by Donald J. Trump and Universal Genève | publisher = antiquorum.com | access-date=2016-11-16}} 40th President of the Dominican Republic Hector Trujillo owned a pink gold and enamel Universal Genève, ostensibly given as a diplomatic gift.{{cite web | url = http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/universal-a-fine-and-unusual-18k-pink-5257556-details.aspx | title = Universal. A fine and unusual 18K pink gold and enamel wristwatch, presumably presented to General Hector Trujillo | publisher = christies.com| access-date=2016-11-11}}

Because of Swiss neutrality during World War II, Swiss made goods had been exported to international buyers with no basis on their country's alliance, reputation or political standing in the world. Although Hermann Göring owned many different brands of watches, the Reichsmarschall had given his Universal Genève Compax to Nuremberg Trials guard Lt. Jack Wheelis the night before his scheduled execution.{{cite book

| last = Lattimer

| first = John K.

| title = Hitler and the Nazi leaders: a unique insight into evil

| publisher = Hippocrene Books

| year = 2001

| isbn = 0-7818-0896-0

}} While Wheelis' family maintained that the gift was a friendly gesture, historians have long attributed the wristwatch as being a bribe for the cyanide pill Göring ingested to escape the hangman.{{cite book

| last = Swearingen

| first = Ben E.

| title = The Mystery of Hermann Goering's Suicide

| publisher = Mass Market Paperback

| date = September 1, 1987

| isbn = 0-440-16091-X

}}

Fernando Aubel, a former Chilean Air Force General (1978–1990) under Augusto Pinochet's military dictatorship, recalled receiving a Universal Genève chronometer wristwatch as a young man and still wearing it at the present, according to a personal memoir.{{cite book

| last = Matthei

| first = Fernando

| title = Matthei: mi testimonio

| publisher = Tercera-Mondadori

| year = 2003

}}

Deposed Iraq President Saddam Hussein's extensive watch collection included Universal Genèves. Many pieces were customized with his face and the nation's emblem on the dial, and gifted to visiting dignitaries.

French writer, poet, filmmaker and one-time Cannes Film Festival president Jean Cocteau was an outspoken fan of Universal Genève's style of manufacture, and a limited line of Universal tourbillons had etched verses of Cocteau's poetry.

Jon Voight owned a personalized Compax and Joan Rivers owned a Golden Shadow before both actors donated their watches to Antiquorum.{{cite web | url = http://catalog.antiquorum.com/catalog.html?action=load&lotid=42&auctionid=85 | title = UNIVERSAL GENEVE "Compax", Ref. 184.440. Donated by Jon Voight and Universal Genève | publisher = antiquorum.com | access-date=2011-10-01}}{{cite web | url = http://catalog.antiquorum.com/catalog.html?action=load&lotid=7&auctionid=85 | title = UNIVERSAL GENEVE "Golden Shadow" model, Ref. 115.507. Donated by Joan Rivers and Universal Genève | publisher = antiquorum.com | access-date=2011-10-01}}

Actor and comedian Jerry Lewis owned and donned a Universal Genève dress watch in the 1970s.{{cite web | url = https://www.julienslive.com/lot-details/index/catalog/353/lot/140978 | title = Lot #296 JERRY LEWIS WATCHES | publisher = Julien's Auctions | access-date=2023-05-28}}

Rock and roll luminary Elvis Presley owned a 14k gold Universal Genève dress watch which he gifted to his personal doctor in Las Vegas in the 1970s.{{cite web | url = https://www.julienslive.com/lot-details/index/catalog/216/lot/89807/?url=%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F216%2Flot%2F%3Fpage%3D25%26sort%3D2%26dir%3D1%26items%3D10 | title = Lot #365 ELVIS PRESLEY GOLD GENÈVE WRISTWATCH | publisher = Julien's Auctions | access-date=2023-05-28}}

English rock musician Eric Clapton donned a 'panda dial' Tri-Compax during his years with the rock band Cream in the mid to late 1960s, leading to this particular model being nicknamed the "Eric Clapton".

Finnish fashion model Nina Rindt, best known for being the wife, and later the widow, of 1970 Formula One world drivers' champion Jochen Rindt, was often seen and photographed wearing a 'panda dial' (black subdials on a white main dial) Compax in the pit lane at Formula One race meets.{{cite web |author1=Messynessy |title=Forgotten Vintage Style Icon du Jour: Nina Rindt |url=https://www.messynessychic.com/2015/05/07/forgotten-vintage-style-icon-du-jour-nina-rindt/ |website=Messy Nessy Chic |access-date=29 September 2024 |date=6 September 2016}}{{cite web |last1=O |first1=Darcy |title=Nina Rindt (Lincoln) - Formula One's Forgotten Style Icon {{!}} Revised 2024 |url=https://www.rocksoffmag.com/nina-rindt/ |website=Rocks Off Magazine |access-date=7 April 2024 |date=6 October 2020}} That Compax variation has come to be nicknamed the 'Nina Rindt watch' in her honour,{{cite web |author1= |title=Found: Tropical Universal Genève "Nina Rindt" Compax Chronograph |url=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-tropical-universal-genve-nina-rindt-compax-chronograph |website=Hodinkee |access-date=7 April 2024 |language=en |date=7 February 2014}}{{cite web |last1=Stockton |first1=Michael |title=#TBT Universal Geneve Compax "Evil Nina" |url=https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-universal-geneve-compax-evil-nina/ |website=Fratello Watches |access-date=30 September 2024 |date=7 May 2015}}{{cite web |last1=Riche |first1=Rhonda |title=Woman Of Substance: Five Ways In Which Nina Rindt Is The Original Watch Influencer |url=https://www.watchonista.com/articles/novelties/woman-substance-five-ways-which-nina-rindt-original-watch-influencer |website=Watchonista |access-date=7 April 2024 |language=en |date=24 July 2019}}{{cite web |last1=M |first1=Alessandro |title=Is The Universal Geneve Nina Rindt Better Than A Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? |url=https://italianwatchspotter.com/universal-geneve-nina-rindt/?lang=en |website=Italian Watch Spotter |access-date=7 April 2024 |date=28 March 2021}} and its 'reverse panda' (white subdials on a black main dial) counterpart has since been given, in the lexicon of watch collectors, the corresponding nickname 'Evil Nina'.{{cite web |last1=Traina |first1=Anthony |title=Hands-On: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Adds An 'Evil' El Primero With A New Black Dial |url=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-zenith-chronomaster-original-adds-an-evil-el-primero-with-a-new-black-dial |website=Hodinkee |access-date=30 September 2024 |language=en |date=28 November 2023}}{{cite web |last1=Gustafson |first1=Erik |title='Evil Nina' 885103/01 Universal Genève Compax |url=https://hairspring.com/finds/evil-nina-885103-01-universal-geneve-compax/ |website=Hairspring |access-date=30 September 2024 |date=11 February 2024}}

The 1997 and 1998 Universal Ayrton Senna sports chronograph watches were named after another late Formula One world drivers' champion, Ayrton Senna. As the limited edition watch bears Senna's name, proceeds from sales were to endow Instituto Ayrton Senna, an anti-poverty charity started by his sister, Viviane.

BusinessWeek cited the market value of most Universal Genève watches from the 1960s as approximately ranging between $2,500–$3,500 (figures adjusted to 2010 inflation)

{{cite magazine | magazine= BusinessWeek | issue=1931–1936 | year = 1966}}

Among the rarest and most expensive of Universal Genève timepieces includes the 'Golden Janus', a 1994 centennial of the 1930s Cabriolet, which were limited to 10 in number and have realized at an upwards $50,000 (43,700 CHF) at auction.{{cite web | url = http://www.lacotedesmontres.com/Enchere-No_34465.htm | title = Universal Genève, "Golden Janus Cabriolet", produced for the 100th Anniversary of Universal in April 1994 - Lot #149 | publisher = www.lacotedesmontres.com| access-date=2011-07-23}}

Universal Genève's 'A. Cairelli Rattrapante', an aviator's chronograph, consists of a 24-hour dial with a 16-minute register. Manufactured in Rome, the wristwatch was produced only sporadically between 1939 and 1945 and was originally meant for the Royal Italian Air Force (Regia Aeronautica Italiana).{{cite magazine | magazine= National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors | location= Columbia, Pennsylvania | title= NAWCC bulletin | volume = 45 | page = 729 | publisher = National Watch and Clock Museum | date = July 14, 2003}} At private dealers and auction houses such as Sotheby's{{cite magazine | magazine= Sotheby's Auction Catalog | location= Geneva | title= Lot# GE0702-35 – closed at 55,200 CHF | publisher = Sotheby's | date = May 16, 2007}}{{cite magazine|magazine= Sotheby's 2012 Watch Sales Catalog | location= Geneva | title= Lot# GE0072-41 - closed at 122,000 CHF | publisher = Sotheby's | date = November 13, 2012}} and Christie's,{{cite web | url = http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?intObjectID=4483078 | title = Universal. A unusual and rare oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch with 24 hour dial – Sale 1326 / Lot 95 | publisher = Christie's | access-date= 2011-07-23}} the Universal Genève Cairellis have closed between an estimated $90,000 and $130,000.{{cite web | url = https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-12-07/vintage-universal-gen-ve-1940s-split-second-chronograph | title = This Super-Rare 1940s Chronograph Is $90,000 for a Reason | publisher = bloomberg.com | access-date= 2016-11-16}}

{{Reflist|2}}

{{refbegin}}

• {{cite book |last1=Sala |first1=Pietro Giuiano |title=Universal Watch Geneve: Cronografi e orologi da polso complicati = Chronographes et montres a complications = Chronographs and complicated wristwatches |date=2024 |publisher=Independently published |isbn=9791221054965 |edition=2nd |language=it,fr,en}}
• {{cite book |last1=Willis |first1=Andrew |last2=Mazzucchi |first2=Mattia |title=The Polerouter |date=2023 |publisher=Time Honoured}}

{{refend}}

• [http://www.universal.ch/ Universal Genève company website]

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{{DEFAULTSORT:Universal Geneve}}

Category:Luxury brands

Category:Swiss watch brands

Category:Watch manufacturing companies of Switzerland

Category:Manufacturing companies established in 1894

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Category:Swiss companies established in 1894

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