Zhiduo (clothing)

The Buddhist monk's {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was worn as early as the Tang dynasty.{{Cite web|title=The Slanted Shirt and the Zhiduo--《Studies on the Cave Temples》2011年00期|url=https://en.cnki.com.cn/Article_en/CJFDTotal-SKSY201100023.htm|access-date=2021-07-28|website=en.cnki.com.cn}} After the middle Tang dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was worn together with the right bare cassock, called {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} ({{Lang-zh|c=袈裟|p=jiasha}}). The term {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} was borrowed from the term Kasaya in China where it became a specific term to refer to a one-piece rectangular robe made out of patchwork.{{Cite book |last=Shi |first=Youwei |publisher=Routledge |title=Loanwords in Chinese language |date=2021 |isbn=978-1-000-29351-7 |location=Abingdon, Oxon |oclc=1222862988}} The {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} was typically black in colour in the Han dynasty; purple in the Tang dynasty and turned yellow since the Five dynasties period until now as the colour yellow in Buddhism represents the highest set of values: desire-less-ness, humility, and renunciation. In certain geographical areas, the {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} was also possible for the {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} to be red or brown in colour. In China, there were also regulations established by the Imperial court which regulated the colour of the {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} based on ranks but which could vary depending on the different dynastic period.

The wearing of the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} together with the {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} eventually became the standard dressing style for Buddhist monks and continued to prevail in the Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties with little changes in styles. The custom and practice of wearing {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} over the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} then spread to Korea and Japan.{{Cite book |title=Zen and material culture|date=2017 |editor1=Pamela D. Winfield |editor2=Steven Heine|publisher=Oxford University Press|isbn=978-0-19-046931-3|location=New York, NY|oclc=968246492}} In present-days, the Tang dynasty-style {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} which is purple in colour still remains popular among the Japanese Buddhist monks.

During the early Qing dynasty, the Qing court issued the {{Transliteration|zh|Tifayifu}} policies on the Han Chinese population, which led to the disappearance of most {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}.{{Cite journal |last=Tan [檀] |first=Yuezhi [越之] |date=2012 |title=Huaxia yiguan zhi zhiduo yu zhishen |script-title=zh:华夏衣冠之直裰与直身 |url=http://www.cqvip.com/qk/84310x/201206/44201071.html |journal=贵阳文史 |volume=6 |pages=83}} The {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was, however, spared from this policy as it was part of the ten exceptions. In the Qing dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|jiasha}} stopped being used and the Buddhist monk's {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was used alone.

When Buddhism was introduced in China during the Han dynasty around 65 AD,{{Cite journal|last=Cheng|first=Fung Kei|date=2020-07-28|title=Intertwined Immersion: The Development of Chinese Buddhist Master Costumes as an Example|url=https://www.fssh-journal.org/index.php/jrs/article/view/77|journal=Religious Studies|language=en|volume=8|issue=1|pages=23–44|issn=0536-2326}} the Indian Kasaya was also introduced.{{Cite book|last=Kieschnick |title=The impact of Buddhism on Chinese material culture|date=2003|isbn=978-0-691-21404-7|location=Princeton|pages=94|oclc=1159003372 |publisher=Princeton University Press}} The Indian Kasaya was composed of the {{Transliteration|zh|sanyi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=三衣|p=sānyī|l=three robes}}).{{Cite book|last=Yi|first=Lidu |title=Yungang : art, history, archaeology, liturgy|date=2017|isbn=978-1-351-40240-8|location=New York|oclc=990183288 |publisher=Routledge}} However, the Indian Kasaya was not well-received in China as the Chinese deeply believed in the Confucian concept of propriety; and as a result, any forms of body exposure was perceived as being improper and was associated with barbarians.{{Cite book|last=Yifa |title=The origins of Buddhist monastic codes in China : an annotated translation and study of the Chanyuan qinggui|date=2002|publisher=University of Hawaii Press|others=Zongze|isbn=0-585-46406-5|location=Honolulu|pages=252|oclc=52763904}} Being fully clothed is an expression of Chinese clothing culture, and compared to their Indian counterparts, the Chinese did not perceive the exposure of shoulders as a sign of respect. The absence of right shoulder exposure started in northern China in order to shield the body from the cold and to fulfill the Chinese cultural requirements. This change occurred during the Chinese medieval era with the bareness completely disappearing in the Cao Wei period. It appears that shoulder exposure reappeared during the Northern Wei period before being criticized:

{{Blockquote|text=People from the West in general have their arms uncovered. [Monks] were afraid that criticism of this practice would arise, and so the arm needed to be covered.... In the Northern Wei period, people from the Palace saw the bared arm of the monks. They thought this was inappropriate. Then a right sleeve was added, both sides of which were sewn. It was called pianshan. It was open from the collar in the front, so the original appearance was maintained. Therefore, it is known that the left part of the pianshan was actually just the inner robe, while the right part is to cover the shoulder.|author=Yi, Lidu|title=Yungang Art, History, Archaeology, Liturgy|source=Zengxiu jiaoyuan qinggui}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|pianshan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=偏衫|p=piānshān|l=side clothes}}), also known as {{Transliteration|ja|hensan}} {{Nihongo|2=偏(褊)衫/へんさん|lead=yes}} in Japan{{Cite journal |last1=Waddell |first1=N. A. |last2=Waddell |first2=Norman |date=1978 |title=Dōgen's Hōkyō-ki PART II |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/44361500 |journal=The Eastern Buddhist |volume=11 |issue=1 |pages=66–84 |issn=0012-8708 |jstor=44361500}} and {{Transliteration|ko|pyeonsam}} ({{Korean|hangul=편삼|hanja=褊衫|rr=}}) in Korea, was a short robe. To create the {{Transliteration|zh|pianshan}}, the monks combined the Saṃkakṣikā, called {{Transliteration|zh|sengzhizhi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=僧祗支|p=sēngzhīzhī}}), which is the inner inner garment worn by both the monks and nuns under {{Transliteration|zh|sanyi}}, with the {{Transliteration|zh|hujianyi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=䕶肩衣|p=hùjiānyī}}) of the Buddhist nuns. The {{Transliteration|zh|hujianyi}} was a piece of fabric which covers the right shoulder of Buddhist nuns and was only used by the nuns; it started to be used after some Buddhist nuns suffered harassment by men for wearing right shoulder-exposing clothes.File:Chinesischer Maler von 1238 001.jpg, painted in 1238, Song dynasty.]]

File:BaizhangHuaihai.gif]]

Initially the Buddhist monks wore the {{Transliteration|zh|pianshan}} as an upper garment along with a Chinese skirt called {{Transliteration|zh|qun}} ({{Lang-zh|c=裙|p=qún|l=skirt}}), also called {{Nihongo|2=裙/くん|3=kun|lead=yes}} in Japan and {{Transliteration|ko|gunja}} ({{Korean|hangul=군자|hanja=裙子|rr=}}) in Korea. In accordance to the philosophy of Confucianism and Taoism, the use of upper and lower garment, {{Transliteration|zh|yichang}}, represented the Heaven and Earth which interacts in harmony; this concept appeared early on in ancient China and can be found in the {{Transliteration|zh|Yi Jing}}《{{Linktext|易經}}》.{{Cite book |title=The complete I ching : the definitive translation |date=2010 |publisher=Inner Traditions |translator=Alfred Huang |isbn=978-1-59477-886-5 |edition=10th |location=Rochester, Vt. |oclc=725228353}} This style of dress was imitated until the Tang dynasty, when the {{Transliteration|zh|pianshan}} and {{Transliteration|zh|qun}} were sewn together to form a single long garment. Since the single long garment first appeared when the {{Transliteration|zh|pianshan}} and {{Transliteration|zh|qun}} were sewn together to form a long robe; this long robe follows the structure of the {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}}, and thus follows one of the traditional clothing system in {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}. By the time of the Yuan dynasty, this long robe was termed {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}}. The term {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} can also be found in a 1336 monastic code called the {{Transliteration|zh|Chixiu Baizhang qinggui}}《{{Lang-zh|s=勅修百丈清規|t=勅修百丈淸規|p=|labels=no|l=Imperial Edition of Baizhang's Rule of Purity}}》, compiled by Dongyang Dehui in 1338 during the Yuan dynasty.{{Cite book |last=Poceski |first=Mario |title=The Records of Mazu and the Making of Classical Chan Literature |publisher=Oxford University Press |year=2015 |isbn=9780190225766 |location=New York |oclc=910935405}}{{Rp|page=132}}

Modern-day Buddhist monks and laity refer to the long Buddhist robe as {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} ({{Lang-zh|c=海青}}).{{Cite book |last=Nan |first=Huaijin |title=Basic Buddhism : exploring Buddhism and Zen |date=1997 |publisher=Samuel Weiser |others=Huaijin Nan |isbn=978-1-60925-453-7 |location=York Beach, Me. |oclc=820723154}} The wearing of these long robes by Buddhist monks is a legacy of the Tang and Song period. In ancient times, the {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} was adopted by the Chan temples.

The {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} originated from the {{Transliteration|zh|hanfu}}-style worn in the Han and Tang dynasties. During the Tang and Song period, the Indian-style Kasaya went through major changes until they did not have the same style as the original Kasaya anymore. The {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} however maintains some traces of traditional Chinese culture and shows some glimpse of the dress which had been worn by the elites in ancient China. For example, the closure of the {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} which overlaps and closes to the right, a style referred as called {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}, was passed down from the Shang dynasty and at the same time coincides with the Buddhist custom of respecting the right side.

According to Shen Congwen's {{Transliteration|zh|Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu}}《{{Lang-zh|c=中国古代服饰研究|labels=no}} – {{Lit|Research on Ancient Chinese costumes}}》, the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} evolved from the {{Transliteration|zh|zhongdan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=中(单)襌|l=inner garment}}) worn by the ancient monks.

Initially the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was mostly worn by monks, but in the Song dynasty and in the subsequent dynasties, it became a form of daily clothing for Han Chinese men. In the Song dynasty, the casual {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was loose with a central seam at the back; it however lacked slits on its lower part.{{Cite web |date=2008 |title=Costume in the Song Dynasty |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28394.htm |access-date=2022-07-02 |website=en.chinaculture.org}}

The casual {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was popular among men of the Song,{{Cite web|title=直裰_知网百科|url=https://xuewen.cnki.net/R2006061310002441.html|access-date=2021-07-28|website=xuewen.cnki.net}} Yuan and Ming dynasties, it could be worn by both scholar-official and the common people, and has several features:

• The bottom of robe reaches below the knee
• With overlapping {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} collar
• A centre back seam which runs down the robe
• With lateral slit on each lower side
• Without hem or {{Transliteration|zh|lan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=襴|l=}}), which a decorative narrow panel encircling the robe, usually held in position below the knees

File:儒巾_五百罗汉像轴之一_南宋_周季常日本大德寺藏.png|Song dynasty painting of scholars wearing zhiduo.

File:松陰論道圖.jpg|Song dynasty painting of a man wearing zhiduo.

File:Banbi+zhiduo+aoqun.jpg|A Ming dynasty portrait illustrating a man wearing zhiduo, woman wearing banbi.

File:Zhiduo3.jpg|Ming dynasty portrait of men wearing zhiduo

File:Zhiduo4.jpg|Ming dynasty portrait of men wearing zhiduo

The priests’ {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was generally worn by a Mahāyāna or Taoist priest, it had been popular since the Song dynasty, and has another several features:

• With loose cuffs
• With black borders around the edges of robe
• With a lan on the waistline of robe

File:Chinese Buddhist Monk Yellow Robe Shanghai.jpeg

The {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} is a style worn by Buddhist monastic and laity who pay homage to the Buddha. It is characterized with wide and loose sleeves, along with wide loose waist and lower hem; these features made them comfortable to wear.

File:Taiwanese Buddhist Nun Black Robes.jpeg

Nowadays, the {{Transliteration|zh|haiqing}} is typically found into the following colours: black which is the colour worn by most followers of Buddhism when they homage to the Buddha, and yellow which is the colour worn by abbot of a temple or by a monastic who is officiating during a Dharma service. It can also be found in dark blue.

{{Clear}}

In Japan, the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} is known as {{Nihongo|2=直綴/じきとつ|3=jikitotsu|lead=yes}}. It is also known as {{Nihongo|2=|3=koromo|lead=yes}}.{{Cite web |title=Robe Worn by a Zen Buddhist Mendicant Monk (Koromo or Jikitotsu) |url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/robe-worn-zen-buddhist-mendicant-monk-koromo-or-jikitotsu-2016963 |access-date=2021-12-28 |website=RISD Museum}}{{Cite book |last=Baroni |first=Helen Josephine |title=The illustrated encyclopedia of Zen Buddhism |date=2002 |publisher=Rosen Pub. Group |isbn=0-8239-2240-5 |edition=1st |location=New York |pages=196 |oclc=42680558}} The {{Nihongo|2=|3=koromo|lead=yes}} is worn by Japanese Buddhist monks or priests; the robe is typically black or blue.{{Cite web |title=Koromo - Tibetan Buddhist Encyclopedia |url=http://tibetanbuddhistencyclopedia.com/en/index.php/Koromo |access-date=2021-12-28 |website=tibetanbuddhistencyclopedia.com}} A kesa is worn on top of the {{Nihongo|2=|3=koromo|lead=yes}}.

File:Portrait of a monk-MGR Lyon-IMG 9876.jpg|Portrait of a monk, Japan, 16th century.

File:旧山宗英像-Portrait of Kyūzan Sōei (1605–1656) MET DP231171.jpg|Portrait of Zen master Kyūzan Sōei (1605–1656).

In Korea, the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was known as {{Transliteration|ko|jikcheol}} ({{Korean|hangul=직철|hanja=直裰|rr=}}), and was also referred as the {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} ({{Korean|hangul=장삼|hanja=長衫|rr=}}) of the Buddhist monks. During the Three Kingdoms period, Buddhism was introduced to Korea through China, and the Korean Buddhist monks wore Chinese style Buddhist robes, which is the Chinese-style {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}}.{{Cite web |title=Jangsam (長衫) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7156 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture}} The {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} worn by the Korean Buddhist monks was worn as early as the Goryeo period. Up until the early period of Joseon, the {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} which was worn under the kasaya was in the form of the {{Transliteration|ko|jikcheol}}.

There are two types of Buddhist {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} which is worn as monastic robe in present days, the {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} of the Jogye Order and the Taego Order of Buddhism. The {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} of the Jogye Order has structural similarities with the {{Transliteration|ko|jikcheol}} from China whereas the one from the Taego Order is more structurally similar to the traditional {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}, which was a coat without vents, also known as {{Transliteration|ko|Juui}} ({{Korean|hangul=주의|hanja=周衣|rr=}}). The {{Transliteration|ko|jikcheol}} developed in one of the current Korean, long-sleeved Buddhist {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}}. A form of present days Buddhist {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} was developed through the combination of the wide sleeves of the {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} with the form of the {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}.

The Buddhist {{Transliteration|ko|jangsam}} was also adopted as the shaman robe in {{Transliteration|ko|jeseokgori}}.

• Daopao
• Paofu
• Shenyi

• Han Chinese clothing
• List of Han Chinese clothing

{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Chinese traditional clothing

Category:Buddhist religious clothing