Paofu

{{See also|Ru (upper garment)}}

The term {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=袍服|p=|l=|labels=no}}) is composed of the Chinese characters {{Transliteration|zh|pao}}《{{Linktext|袍}}》, which literally means "robe", and {{Transliteration|zh|fu}}《{{Linktext|服}}》which literally means "clothing". The character {{Transliteration|zh|pao}}《袍》is the same character which is used as an abbreviated synonym of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}.

The Chinese character《袍》can be found in ancient texts dating prior to the Qin and Han dynasties, such as in the {{Transliteration|zh|Lun Yu}}《{{Linktext|論語}}》.{{Cite web |title=The Analects : 《子罕 - Zi Han》 |url=https://ctext.org/analects/zi-han |access-date=2022-06-26 |website=ctext.org |language=}} According to the {{Transliteration|zh|Guangyun}}, the character《袍》can also refer to the {{Transliteration|zh|changru}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|l=long jacket|p=chángrú|s=长襦|t=長襦}}).{{Cite web |title=廣韻 : 下平聲 : 豪 : 袍 - Chinese Text Project |url=https://ctext.org/text.pl?node=295087&if=en |access-date=2022-06-14 |website=ctext.org |language=en}} The term {{Transliteration|zh|changru}} which appear in the ancient texts has been described as the precursor of the {{Transliteration|zh|chang ao}} by scholars.{{Cite book |last=Finnane |first=Antonia |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/84903948 |title=Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation |date=2008 |publisher=Columbia University Press |isbn=978-0-231-14350-9 |location=New York |oclc=84903948}}{{Rp|pages=48–50}}

There are different types of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}, which can be referred by different names and terms based on its style, cut, length, and specific features.

The term {{Transliteration|zh|changpao}} is a generic term which refers to robes which are long in length and can include different forms of long robes, such as the ancient {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}}, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.{{Rp|page=14}}

There are also specific terms which is used to described {{Transliteration|zh|pao}} with or without lining or padding: for example, {{Transliteration|zh|jiapao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|mianpao}},{{Rp|page=12}} {{Transliteration|zh|yunpao}} ({{Lang-zh|c=縕袍|l=hemp robe}}) which is robe quilted with hemp.{{Cite web |title=Zhuangzi : Miscellaneous Chapters :《讓王 - Kings who have wished to resign the Throne》 |url=https://ctext.org/zhuangzi/kings-who-have-wished-to-resign |access-date=2022-06-26 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-TW}}

There are specific types of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}, which can be named based on their specific cut, construction, accessories, and wearing styles, are the:

• {{Transliteration|zh|Baoyi bodai}} – a simple, loose-fitting robes with long, open sleeves, a style worn by men which provided a carefree look to its wearer.{{Rp|page=14}}
• {{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}}
• {{Transliteration|zh|Guipao}}{{Rp|page=14}}
• {{Transliteration|zh|Jiaolingpao}} – long robe with a cross-collar closing which closes to the right; worn since the Zhou dynasty.
• {{Transliteration|zh|Panling lanshan}} vs {{Transliteration|zh|Yuanlingpao}} vs {{Transliteration|zh|Fanlingpao}}
• {{Transliteration|zh|Longpao}} ({{Lang-zh|c=龙袍|labels=no}}) – dragon robe.
• {{Transliteration|zh|Xi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|labels=no|t=襲}}) – an ancient term used to refer to the {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} which closed on the left side in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=左衽袍|labels=no|t=}}) as defined by the {{Transliteration|zh|Shuowen jiezi}}.{{Cite web |title=Shuo Wen Jie Zi : 卷九 : 衣部 - Chinese Text Project |url=https://ctext.org/shuo-wen-jie-zi/yi-bu3 |access-date=2022-06-28 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-TW}} It was typically worn by a deceased person.{{Cite web |last=Ministry of Education |date=2021 |title=Dictionary review [襲 : ㄒㄧˊ] Ministry of Education 《Revised Mandarin Chinese Dictionary》 |url=https://dict.revised.moe.edu.tw/dictView.jsp?ID=6841&la=1&powerMode=0 |access-date=2022-06-28 |website=dict.revised.moe.edu.tw}}
• {{Transliteration|zh|Zhiduo}} vs {{Transliteration|zh|Zhishen}}

{{Main|Garment collars in Hanfu}}

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The {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} and the {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}} are both one-piece robes as an result.{{Rp|page=14}} However, the difference between those two is the cut and construction of the garment.

The {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}} is composed of two parts: an upper garment called {{Transliteration|zh|yi}} and a lower garment called {{Transliteration|zh|chang}}, which are then sewn together into a one-piece robe;{{Rp|page=10}} and therefore, there is the presence of a middle seam where the two parts were connected together. The {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}, on the other hand, has its upper and lower part made out of a single fabric leading to the absence of middle seam between the upper and lower part.{{Cite web |date=2020-11-04 |title=Hanfu History {{!}} The Development of Chinese Robe System - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/2235.html |access-date=2022-06-21 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}

Typically the {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} closes on the right side in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} and was a very important symbol of cultural identity for the Han Chinese.{{Cite book |last=Ma |first=Xiaofang |title=Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Contemporary Education, Social Sciences and Humanities (ICCESSH 2018) |url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/iccessh-18/25898038 |date=2018 |publisher=Atlantis Press |isbn=978-94-6252-528-3 |pages=639–643 |language=en |chapter=Study on the Aesthetics of Han Chinese Clothing Culture in the TV Play q Nirvana in Fireq |doi=10.2991/iccessh-18.2018.143}} The {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} could also be found closing on the left style called {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}}. The {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} with a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure was generally associated with the dress of ethnic minorities and the Hufu; however, they could also be the funeral dress of the Han Chinese. It was also a possible for some living Han Chinese to adopt {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} with a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure in geographical areas which were ruled by foreign nationalities.{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rUvrAAAAMAAJ&q=damao&pg=PA208 |title=The Museum of Far East Antique Bulletin 70 |publisher=Östasiatiska museet |year=1998 |pages=208}}{{Clear}}

File:Changshadragon.jpg]]

In the Zhou dynasty, {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} was one of the basic clothing worn by the Han Chinese people, along with the Chinese trousers, called {{Transliteration|zh|ku}}. The style of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} which was widely worn in this period is the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}}, which was a long robe with an overlapping front closing on the right side, a style called {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}. The {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} was made with 2-length of fabric which started from the back hem and continued down to the front hem without discontinuity over the shoulders; they were then sewed at the central region of the back and under the arms which often allowed for side vents on the lower side seams to be formed. To form the sleeves, 2 additional pieces of fabrics were sewed together at the shoulder regions of the garment. It was left open in the front, and it could be closed at the waist with a tie or with a belt. Other pieces of fabric could be added to make the width at the sides bigger or to create the overlapping front of the robe.

{{See also|Shenyi}}

File:Dinastia han anteriore, dama stante, cina del nord, II sec. ac..JPG

File:Dinastia han anteriore, servitore stante, cina del nord, II sec. ac..JPG

File:Han_Yang_Ling_33.JPG

The {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} became a prominent form of attire in the Han dynasty; it was mainly worn by men, although it was sometimes worn by women. Even with the rising popularity of {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}}, women continued to wear {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}}.{{Rp|page=12}} In the Han dynasty, {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} was typically worn by the members of royalty and by the aristocrats as an outerwear.{{Cite web|title=Po(袍)|url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7237|website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture}} It was also the uniform of government officials. Around the 206 BC, the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} worn by elders had large sweeping sleeves which would be tied tightly to the wrist.{{Cite book |last=Snodgrass |first=Mary Ellen |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/910448387 |title=World Clothing and Fashion : an Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. |date=2015 |publisher=Taylor and Francis |isbn=978-1-317-45167-9 |location=Hoboken |pages= |oclc=910448387}}{{Rp|page=529}} The {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} could be found in different length; the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}}, which could reach down to the ankles, were usually worn by scholars or elderlies whereas knee-length {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} were worn by warriors and heavy labourers.{{Rp|page=|pages=13}}{{Rp|page=217|pages=}} Elderlies started to wear the ankle-length {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} after 206 BC.{{Rp|page=217|pages=}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} in the Han dynasty had linings; and it could be called {{Transliteration|zh|jiapao}} or {{Transliteration|zh|mianpao}} based on whether it was padded.{{Rp|page=12}}{{Rp|page=234}} It was padded or quilted for warmth.{{Rp|page=217|pages=}} The sleeves were typically very wide and would become cinched at the wrists.{{Rp|page=|pages=12–13}} The collar was {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}, and it was cut lower than the {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}}, and it was also low enough to expose the undergarments of its wearer.{{Rp|page=|pages=13}}{{Rp|page=234|pages=}} It was also typically decorated with an embroidered dark-coloured band at the collar, front hem, and at the wrists.{{Rp|page=|pages=13}}{{Clear}}

{{Main|Yuanlingshan|Panling Lanshan|Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing|l1 = Yuanlingpao}}

By the Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties, the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} of the Han dynasty evolved into the {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}} ({{Lang-zh|s=褒衣博带|t=褒衣博帶|p=bāoyībódài|l=loose clothing long belt}}) and into the more complex and elaborate women's {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}, {{Transliteration|zh|guipao}}.{{Rp|page=14}}

File:Seven_Sages_of_the_Bomboo_Grove.Rubbing1.Xishanqiao.jpg (5th-6th. c.).]]The {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}} was a type of loose {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} with long ribbons for men.{{Rp|page=14}} The {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}} gave its wearer a casual and simple appearance.{{Rp|page=14}} Loose type of clothing was often worn during leisure times as found in the depictions of the Seven Sages of the Bamboo groove where men had their upper clothing open, allowed their inner garment to be exposed, a knotted belt or sash which would tied to the upper garment at the chest level, and their skirts and lower garment would be held by a belt made of clothing which would be knotted at the front of the lower garment.{{Cite book |last=Dien |first=Albert E. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/72868060 |title=Six dynasties civilization |date=2007 |publisher=Yale University Press |isbn=978-0-300-07404-8 |location=New Haven, Conn. |pages= |oclc=72868060}}{{Rp|page=315}} File:Gu Kaizhi 345.jpg]]

File:Wei Yigong.jpg

The {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}}-style appears to have been a Northern Chinese style instead of a Southern Chinese style.{{Rp|page=315}} The {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}}-style eventually became fashionable in the South.{{Cite journal|last=Tsiang|first=Katherine R.|date=2002|title=Changing Patterns of Divinity and Reform in the Late Northern Wei|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/3177267|journal=The Art Bulletin|volume=84|issue=2|pages=222–245|doi=10.2307/3177267|jstor=3177267 |issn=0004-3079|url-access=subscription}} Loose {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} with flowing, loose sleeves was a popular style among men from diverse social strata in the Eastern Jin and in the Southern dynasties period; a {{Transliteration|zh|bixi}} was sometimes attached to the waist of the {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}.{{Rp|page=56}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}} style also appeared on the images of Buddha which dates from the late 5th century AD.{{Rp|page=315}} The {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}} style appears to have been a direct consequence of Emperor Xiaowen's Sinicization reforms in 486 AD. The popularity of the {{Transliteration|zh|baoyi bodai}} style was very high, and it eventually replaced the Indian-style clothing (i.e. sanghati) which used to be depicted on the Buddha.{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/873986732 |title=Early medieval China : a sourcebook |date=2014 |others=Wendy Swartz, Robert Ford Campany, Yang Lu, Jessey Jiun-Chyi Choo |isbn=978-0-231-53100-9 |location=New York |pages= |oclc=873986732}}{{Rp|page=435}}{{Clear}}

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File:Tang dynasty woman wearing a cross-collared robe 唐周昉调琴啜茗图 (cropped).jpg

In the Tang dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} evolved into a {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} with a round collar,{{Rp|page=|pages=14}} referred as {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} or {{Transliteration|zh|panling lanshan}}. However, Tang dynasty women also continued to wear long and loose {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} which was tied and knotted with a large sash at the hipline.{{Rp|page=4}}{{Clear}}

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In Ming dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} continued to be worn by commoner men; it was worn with an undershirt, loose trousers ({{Transliteration|zh|ku}}), and a sash around the waist.{{Cite book |last=Sun |first=Ming-ju |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/55693573 |title=Chinese fashions |date=2002 |publisher=Dover Publications |isbn=0-486-42053-1 |location=Mineola, N.Y. |pages= |oclc=55693573}}{{Rp|page=28}} Other specific forms of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} also coexisted such as: {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}, {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}}, {{Transliteration|zh|zhishen}}, and {{Transliteration|zh|panling lanshan}}, etc.{{Cite web|date=2020|title=Hanfu History {{!}} The Development of Chinese Robe System - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/2235.html|access-date=2021-05-28|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}}

{{Expand section|date=June 2022}}{{Main|Qizhuang}}

The kimono was based on a type of Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|pao}} which was popular in the 8th century AD Japanese court.{{Cite book|last=Sun|first=Ming-Ju|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/271671537|title=Japanese kimono paper designs : coloring book|date=2007|publisher=Dover|isbn=978-0-486-46223-3|location=Mineola, N.Y.|oclc=271671537}}

Chinese-style {{transliteration|ko|po}} ({{Korean|hangul=포|hanja=袍|rr=po|mr=p'o|labels=|links=|lit=}}) influenced by the Han dynasty coexisted together with the native Korean {{transliteration|ko|po}} during the Three Kingdom period. The po influenced by the Han dynasty either had a straight collar crossing at the front, which is referred as {{transliteration|ko|jingnyeong gyoim}} ({{Korean|hangul=직령교임|hanja=直領交衽|rr=Jiknyeonggyoim}}), or had a straight collar which does not overlap at the front, which is referred as {{transliteration|ko|jingnyeong daeim}} ({{Korean|hangul=직령대임|hanja=|rr=jingnyeongdaeim}}); the sleeves of the Chinese-style {{transliteration|ko|po}} were also long enough to cover the back of the hands; the robe could reach the ankle-level or longer, and could even trail on the ground.

During the Goguryeo period, a form of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}, which was the precursor of the {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}, was adopted and worn by the upper class of Goguryeo in various forms for ceremonies and rituals.{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}

The {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} ({{Korean|hangul=단령|hanja=團領|rr=dallyeong|mr=tallyŏng}}) originated from the Chinese's {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}; it was introduced from the Tang dynasty was introduced during the Silla period.

• Hanfu
• List of Hanfu
• {{Transliteration|zh|Shenyi}}
• Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing
• {{Transliteration|zh|Ru}} – Chinese upper garment

{{Reflist}}

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{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Chinese traditional clothing