fascinator
{{Short description|Elaborate ornamental headpiece}}
{{for|the album by Master's Hammer|Fascinator (album)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2023}}
File:Kate in Ottawa for Canada Day 2011 cropped.jpg, then Duchess of Cambridge, wearing a red fascinator during her visit to Canada in 2011]]
File:Studies of a Woman Wearing a Cap MET DT10096.jpg: Studies of a woman wearing a cap (1717–1718)]]
A fascinator is a formal headpiece, a style of millinery. Since the 1990s, the term has referred to a type of formal headwear worn as an alternative to the hat; it is usually a large decorative design attached to a band or clip. In contrast to a hat, its function is purely ornamental: it covers very little of the head and offers little or no protection from the weather. An intermediate form, incorporating a more substantial base to resemble a hat, is sometimes called a hatinator.
In recent times, especially in countries like Australia and New Zealand, the term ‘fascinator’ has devolved to often refer to mass-produced cheap hairpieces (and used in a more derogatory sense); pieces handmade by qualified milliners are referred to instead by the generic term ‘headpiece’, or by the particular style such as cocktail hat, percher, etc.
Etymology
The word "fascinator" is derived from the Latin verb fascinare ("to fascinate"), and simply means a thing or person that is enthralling or extremely interesting.{{cite dictionary |title=Fascinator - English meaning |dictionary=Cambridge Dictionary |url=https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/fascinator |access-date=22 April 2025 }}
History
File:Marie-Antoinette par É. Vigée Le Brun 1778 - Breteuil.jpg: Marie Antoinette, Queen of France (1778) with feathers on her hair cover.]]
=Earlier decorative headpieces=
It was customary for Christian women in Europe to wear some sort of headcovering.{{cite book|last=Hunt|first=Margaret|title=Women in Eighteenth Century Europe|date=11 June 2014|publisher=Taylor & Francis|language=en |isbn=9781317883876|page=58}}{{cite book|last=Newman|first=Paul B.|title=Daily Life in the Middle Ages|date=15 February 2001|publisher=McFarland|language=en|isbn=9780786450527|page=119}} The European fashion of decorating the female head with a round-brimmed headgear (or hat) can be traced back to the late Renaissance era of the 16th century when some rare Tudor bonnets appear to have a brim.[https://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/bonnet.html Tudor Bonnets, Men and Women: A Portfolio of Images], working pages on the University of Vermont website uvm.edu. Retrieved 12 February 2020. Starting with the Baroque era of the 17th century, brimless head decorations developed. Queen Marie Antoinette made the fashion of using ostrich plumes as a head decoration popular among the European royal courts. Increased trade with Africa meant ostrich feathers were becoming more readily available to be used in fashion items, although this was still costly and therefore affordable only to the aristocracy and wider upper classes.{{Cite web|url=https://www.allure.com/story/history-of-fascinators|title=Here's Why Guests Will Be Wearing Fascinators to the Royal Wedding|website=Allure|date=20 May 2017 |language=en|access-date=25 April 2019|archive-date=27 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180127083754/https://www.allure.com/story/history-of-fascinators|url-status=live}}
=19th-century fascinators=
In the mid-19th-century United States, the term "fascinator" was first applied to headwear. In this context, a fascinator was a lightweight hood or scarf worn about the head and tied under the chin, typically knitted or crocheted.{{cite book |last1=Gordon |first1=Beverley |title=Shaker Textile Arts |date=1982 |publisher=UPINE |isbn=9780874512427 |pages=249–250 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9O-6Sew9jqkC&pg=PA249 |access-date=6 November 2016 |archive-date=15 February 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170215092509/https://books.google.com/books?id=9O-6Sew9jqkC&pg=PA249 |url-status=live }} The earliest citation identified by the Oxford English Dictionary for the use of the word in this sense is from an advertisement in the Daily National Intelligencer of December 1853.{{OED|fascinator, n.}} The fascinator was made from soft, lightweight yarns and may originally have been called a "cloud".{{cite book |last1=Severa |first1=Joan L. |title=Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840–1900 |date=1995 |publisher=Kent State University Press |isbn=9780873385121 |page=544 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8vkzLIrwUXYC&pg=PA544 |access-date=6 November 2016 |archive-date=15 February 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170215092503/https://books.google.com/books?id=8vkzLIrwUXYC&pg=PA544 |url-status=live }} The "cloud" is described in 1871 as being "a light scarf of fine knitting over the head and round the neck, [worn] instead of an opera hood when going out at night".{{cite book |last1=Kemp Philip |first1=Robert |title=Best of everything, by the author of 'Enquire within' |date=1870 |publisher=W. Kent & Co. |location=London |page=235 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8JECAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA235 |access-date=6 November 2016 |archive-date=15 February 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170215092025/https://books.google.com/books?id=8JECAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA235 |url-status=live }} The fascinator went out of fashion in the 1930s, by which time it described a lacy hood similar to a "fussy balaclava".{{cite web|last1=Mancoff|first1=Debra|title=Fascinating Fascinators: What's in a Name?|url=http://www.britannica.com/blogs/2011/05/fascinating-fascinators/|publisher=Encyclopædia Britannica|access-date=14 November 2014|date=17 May 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110520064022/https://www.britannica.com/blogs/2011/05/fascinating-fascinators/ |archive-date=20 May 2011|url-status=dead}} Apart from the common terminology, these fascinators bore no relationship to the modern headpiece.
=Modern=
The use of the term "fascinator" to describe a particular form of late-20th- and early-21st-century millinery emerged towards the end of the late 20th century, possibly as a term for 1990s designs inspired by the small 1960s cocktail hats, which were designed to perch upon the highly coiffed hairstyles of the period. The Oxford English Dictionary cites a use of the word (in quotation marks) from the Australian Women's Weekly of January 1979, but here it appears to have been used in a slightly variant sense, to describe a woman's hat incorporating a small veil (in other words, a cocktail hat). However, the term was certainly in use in its modern sense by 1999.
Although they did not give the style its name, the milliners Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy are credited with having established and popularised fascinators in 20th-century couture.
Uses
File:The royal family.JPG, with the Queen wearing a blue hat, Catherine—then the Duchess of Cambridge—a pink hatinator, Princess Eugenie of York a fascinator, and Princess Beatrice of York a black hat (June 2013).]]
A fascinator is worn on occasions where hats are customary, sometimes serving as an evening accessory, when it may be called a cocktail hat. It is generally worn with fairly formal attire. In addition, fascinators are frequently worn by women as a Christian headcovering during church services, especially weddings.{{cite web|url=https://www.southernliving.com/culture/church-hats|title=What are Church Hats?|publisher=Southern Living|language=en|access-date=14 January 2018|archive-date=7 March 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190307173848/https://www.southernliving.com/culture/church-hats|url-status=live}}{{cite web|url=https://www.popsugar.com/love/Why-Do-British-Women-Wear-Hats-Weddings-14324849|title=Why Do British Women Wear Hats to Weddings?|last=Barrett|first=Colleen|date=21 February 2011|publisher=PopSugar|language=en|access-date=14 January 2018|archive-date=7 March 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190307112316/https://www.popsugar.com/love/Why-Do-British-Women-Wear-Hats-Weddings-14324849|url-status=live}}{{cite web|url=http://catholicherald.co.uk/magazine-post/a-milliners-guide-to-wearing-hats-in-church/|title=A milliner's guide to wearing hats in church|last=Cathcart|first=Laura|date=25 May 2017|publisher=The Catholic Herald|language=en|access-date=14 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180114184010/http://catholicherald.co.uk/magazine-post/a-milliners-guide-to-wearing-hats-in-church/|archive-date=14 January 2018|url-status=dead}}
A substantial fascinator is a fascinator of some size or bulk. Bigger than a barrette, modern fascinators are commonly made with feathers, flowers or beads.{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/04/fashion/04iht-rhats04.html?pagewanted=all|date=3 October 2011|title=Millinery Madness: Hat Makers With Attitude|work=New York Times|access-date=26 February 2017|archive-date=30 June 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170630065123/http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/04/fashion/04iht-rhats04.html?pagewanted=all|url-status=live}} They need to be attached to the hair by a comb, headband or clip. They are particularly popular at premium horse-racing events, such as the Grand National, Kentucky Derby and the Melbourne Cup. Brides may choose to wear them as an alternative to a bridal veil or hat, particularly if their gowns are non-traditional.
At the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton in April 2011, various female guests arrived wearing fascinators. Among them was Princess Beatrice of York, who wore a piece designed by the Irish milliner Philip Treacy. The unusual shape and colour caused quite a media stir and went on to become an internet phenomenon with its own Facebook page.{{cite web |url=http://www.facebook.com/pages/Princess-Beatrices-ridiculous-Royal-Wedding-hat/203705509669392 |title=Princess Beatrice's ridiculous Royal Wedding hat |publisher=Facebook |access-date=17 September 2012 |archive-date=15 May 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120515202941/http://www.facebook.com/pages/Princess-Beatrices-ridiculous-Royal-Wedding-hat/203705509669392 |url-status=live }}{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/fashion/the-75-things-new-yorkers-talked-about-in-2011.html | work=The New York Times | first=Stuart | last=Emmrich | title=The 75 Things New Yorkers Talked About in 2011 | date=28 December 2011 | access-date=26 February 2017 | archive-date=5 November 2017 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171105130304/http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/fashion/the-75-things-new-yorkers-talked-about-in-2011.html | url-status=live }}{{cite web | url= https://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2101344_2100875_2100913,00.html | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20111215171227/http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2101344_2100875_2100913,00.html | url-status= live | archive-date= 15 December 2011 |title=Princess Beatrice's Fascinator |author=Nick Carbone |publisher=Time |date=7 December 2011 |access-date=5 April 2012 }} Princess Beatrice used the publicity to auction it off on eBay, where it garnered €99,000 for charity.{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/08/fashion/08noticed.html | work=The New York Times | first=Austin | last=Considine | title=Perched, Frothy, Headpieces Fascinate: Noticed | date=6 May 2011 | access-date=26 February 2017 | archive-date=10 September 2017 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170910221840/http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/08/fashion/08noticed.html | url-status=live }}{{cite magazine| url=https://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2101344_2100875_2100913,00.html | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111215171227/http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2101344_2100875_2100913,00.html | url-status=live | archive-date=15 December 2011 | magazine=Time | title=The Top 10 Everything Of 2011 | date=7 December 2011}}
In 2012, Royal Ascot announced that women would have to wear hats, not fascinators, as part of a tightening of the dress code in Royal Ascot's Royal Enclosure.[http://www.ascot.co.uk/?page=Royal_Enclosure:_Dress_Code_Images&type=StandaloneRoyalTemplate Royal Enclosure page of official Ascot website.] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110602143641/http://www.ascot.co.uk/?page=Royal_Enclosure:_Dress_Code_Images&type=StandaloneRoyalTemplate |date=2 June 2011 }} URL accessed 25 January 2008 In previous years, female racegoers were simply advised that "many ladies wear hats".[https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-berkshire-16607875 BBC Website: Fascinators in ban at Royal Ascot's Royal Enclosure] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180930013139/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-berkshire-16607875 |date=30 September 2018 }} URL accessed 21 January 2012
Hatinator
The term "hatinator", which emerged in the early 2010s, is used to describe headgear that combines the features of a hat and a fascinator.{{cite news| title= 'Hatinator' to rule at the races | first= Kathleen| last= Cuthbertson| url= http://www.heraldsun.com.au/entertainment/fashion/hatinator-to-rule-at-the-races/story-e6frf8o6-1225769314451| newspaper= Herald Sun| publisher= The Herald and Weekly Times| location= Melbourne| date= 4 September 2009| access-date= 29 January 2012| quote= The term 'hatinator' emerged last year to describe the trend for smaller hats worn the same way as fascinators.}} The hatinator is fastened on the head with a band like a fascinator, but has the appearance of a hat, while a fascinator is much smaller and normally does not go over the sides of the head. The particular style of headgear favoured by the Princess of Wales, is sometimes described as a hatinator.{{citation needed|date=February 2020}}
Gallery
21 juli 2008 - Nationale Feestdag 122.jpg|Queen Mathilde of Belgium wearing a light green fascinator
Prince Beatrice with Dave Clark crop.jpg|Princess Beatrice of York wearing a black-and-white fascinator
Princess Beatrice Fascinator.jpg|Drawing of Princess Beatrice's 2011 fascinator, by Philip Treacy
Myer AW13 (8549748729).jpg|Fascinators worn at the Myer Racing collection preview 2013 (Amber Sherlock third from left)
See also
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
{{Commons category-inline|Fascinators}}
- {{cite web |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200722094203/https://visforvintage.net/2012/08/30/fascinator-history-of-a-hair-accessory/ |title=Fascinator: history of a hair accessory |date=30 August 2012 |website=V is for Vintage |access-date=23 July 2020 }}
{{Hats}}