fixed rope

{{Short description|Technique in mountaineering}}

{{confuse|Rope access}}

{{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=370 | header=Examples of fixed rope climbing

| image1=Climbing in Fitz Roy, Chaltén - Argentina.jpg|caption1=Fitz Roy

| image2=Herbert Hellmuth Summit on mt. Manaslu.jpg|caption2=Manaslu

| image3=Lina Quesada-Cascada del Khumbu 2006, Expedición al Lhotse 8.516 mts., Nepal.jpg|caption3=Khumbu Icefall

| image4=Andy Kirkpatrick The Nose El Capitan.webp |caption4=El Capitan}}

In climbing and mountaineering, a fixed-rope (or fixed-line) is the practice of installing networks of in-situ anchored static climbing ropes on climbing routes to assist any following climbers (and porters) to ascend more rapidly—and with less effort—by using mechanical aid devices called ascenders. Fixed ropes also allow climbers (and porters) to descend rapidly using mechanical devices called descenders. Fixed ropes also help to identify the line of the climbing route in periods of low visibility (e.g. a storm or white-out). The act of ascending a fixed rope is also called jumaring, which is the name of a type of ascender device,{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-how-to-rope-jug/ | title=Learn This: How to Jumar a Rope | date=6 May 2016 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | first=Julie | last=Ellison}} or also called jugging in the US.

Fixed ropes are put in place by the lead climbers, and the ropes may or may not be removed as the climbers descend after completing the route. For popular Himalayan climbing routes, extensive networks of fixed ropes may be put in place to last the entire climbing season (e.g. the Khumbu Icefall on Mount Everest).{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/uncategorized/everest-season-begins-as-icefall-doctors-fix-ropes/ | date=3 March 2021 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | title=Everest Season Begins as Icefall Doctors Fix Ropes}}{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/progress-everest-halts-teams-wait-fixed-ropes/ | date=5 May 2016 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | title=Progress on Everest Halts with Rope-Fixing Confusion}} While storms can strip a mountain of fixed ropes that have been left behind, the existence of old—and often unreliable and dangerous—fixed ropes along popular climbing routes, is a concern in climbing.{{Cite web | newspaper=The Kathmandu Post | date=3 December 2022 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | first=Sangam | last=Prasain | url=https://kathmandupost.com/money/2022/12/03/ropes-on-climbing-routes-litter-mount-everest | title=Ropes on climbing routes litter Mount Everest }}{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/out-on-a-ledge-tangled-confronting-the-knotty-issue-of-fixed-ropes/ | title=Out on a Ledge: Tangled. Confronting the knotty issue of fixed ropes | date=16 October 2019 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | first=Katie | last=Lambert}} On popular European, and latterly American, climbing routes, the fixed rope can be replaced by networks of permanently anchored metal cables, which are called 'via ferrata' routes.{{cite web | magazine=Smithsonian Magazine | url=https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/via-ferratas-are-finally-catching-on-in-the-united-states-180983855/ | title=Via Ferratas Are Finally Catching On in the United States | first=Shoshi | last=Parks | date=28 February 2024 | accessdate=10 May 2024}}

Fixed ropes are not used in 'alpine style' mountaineering as they are considered akin to a form of aid climbing.{{cite book | title=Climbing: Expedition Planning | date=June 2003 | first1= Clyde |last1=Soles |first2=Phil |last2=Powers | publisher=Mountaineers Books | isbn=978-0898867701 | pages=25–31 | chapter=A Matter of Style: Expedition, Capsule, Alpine, Extreme Alpine, and Combined | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=kHlA-R9klR8C&q=%22expedition%22+%22Alpine+style%22 | accessdate=10 May 2024}}{{cite book | date=2018 | title=Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills | edition=9th | isbn=978-1846892622 | publisher=Quiller Publishing | author=The Mountaineers | chapter=Chapter 21: Expedition Climbing | pages=456–469}}{{cite web | magazine=National Geographic Magazine | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/150409-Everest-climbing-sherpas-mountaineering-Nepal-Himalayas-north-face-new-route | first=Mark | last=Synott | date=9 April 2015 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | title=Elite Climbers to Blaze New Route up Everest: Climbing without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support, team tackles unclimbed line on Northeast Face}} Fixed ropes are commonly used on big wall climbing routes where it is common for the non-lead climber(s) to jumar up on fixed ropes to save time and conserve effort;{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-climb-a-big-wall/ | title=Everything You Need to Know for Your First Big Wall | first=Mark | last=Synott | date=23 February 2022 | accessdate=10 May 2024}} the re-belay technique is often used on big walls to reduce wear on fixed ropes.{{cite web | website=VDiff Climbing | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/big-wall-fixing-pitches/ | title=How To Climb a Big Wall – Fixing Pitches | date=2024 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | first=Neil |last=Chelton}} Guided climbing expeditions to Himalayan peaks such as the easier eight-thousanders, often set up extensive networks of fixed ropes on steep or icy sections of the climbing route to help their less experienced clients, and to allow their porters and sherpas move quickly along the route. For example, on the Hillary Step of Everest, networks of fixed ropes improve client safety, but then cause bottlenecks at altitudes in the death zone.{{cite web | magazine=National Geographic Magazine | date=29 May 2019 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | first=Freddie | last=Wilkinsom | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/everest-season-deaths-controversy-crowding-perpetual-planet | title=Traffic jams are just one of the problems facing climbers on Everest}}{{cite web | magazine=National Geographic Magazine | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/everest-fixed-lines-or-fair-means | title=The Everest Moral Dilemma | first=Mark | last=Synott | date=21 April 2015 | accessdate=10 May 2024}} The ethics on the use of extensive fixed rope networks by commercial adventure companies facilitating access to dangerous eight-thousander summits for weaker climbers is a source of debate in mountaineering.