gable hood

The gable hood was originally a simple pointed hood with decorated side panels called lappets and a veil at the back. Over time, it became a complex construction stiffened with buckram, having a box-shaped back and two tube-shaped hanging veils at 90-degree angles. The hanging veils and lappets could be pinned up in a variety of ways to make complex headdresses.

Generally, the gable hood consisted of four parts: the paste, lappets, veil, and decorative jewels (for the most aristocratic only). The paste was a white, stiffened version of the coif, with drawstrings at the back to adjust to the wearer's head. The lappets were then pinned to the paste, and either left to hang or pinned to the side of the head; the veil was then attached. The jewels were mounted on a stiff foundation that could be sewn to the paste, acting not only as decoration but as something to create a more rigid structure. A striped silk undercap could also be worn to fully cover the hair.

The privy purse accounts of Elizabeth of York include payments to Mistress Lokke, a silkwoman, who supplied her with frontlets and bonnets, and for the purchase of a gold frontlet.Nicholas Harris Nicolas, Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York (London: Pickering, 1830), p. 14, 68, 92. In 1537, Queen Jane Seymour forbade her gentlewomen from wearing the newly fashionable French hood, apparently preferring the gable style.Karen Margrethe Høskuldsson, 'From Hennin to Hood', Medieval Clothing and Textiles, 17 (2023), p. 170. {{doi|10.1017/9781800101371.007}} John Husee informed Lady Lisle that her daughter, as an attendant to the Queen, was required to instead wear a "bonnet and frontlet of velvet", lamenting that it "became her nothing so well as the French hood".Mary Anne Everett Green, Letters of Royal and Illustrious Ladies of Great Britain, 2 (London: Colburn, 1846), p. 314.

File:Elizabeth of York from Kings and Queens of England.jpg|Early gable hood: Elizabeth of York {{circa|1500}}

File:Catherine aragon.jpg|alt=A portrait of Queen Catherine of Aragon, Henry the eight's first wife. She wears a black French-style gown with yellow undersleeves and a golden gable good|18th-century rendition of Catherine of Aragon in a 1520s gable hood with pinned lappets.

File:Gablehood front-back c1535 detail.jpg|alt=Front and back views of a box-backed gable hood of c. 1528–30. Detail of a drawing by Holbein|Front and back views of a box-backed gable hood of {{circa|lk=no|1528–30}}. Detail of a drawing by Hans Holbein.

File:Hans Holbein the Younger - Jane Seymour, Queen of England - Google Art Project.jpg|Holbein, Queen Jane Seymour, 1536–37

File:Holbein gable hood eng.jpg|Gable hood with lappets and one side of veil pinned up. Engraving after Holbein, {{circa|lk=no|1535}}.

File:Portrait of Lady Margaret (Bacon) Butts by Hans Holbein d. j.jpg|alt=A Tudor woman wearing a simple gable hood. She also wears a black gown and black partlet, underneath some furs|Gable hood of {{circa|lk=no|1543}}

• 1500–1550 in Western European fashion
• Margaret Beaufort
• Catherine of Aragon
• Jane Seymour
• Mary Boleyn

{{Reflist}}

• Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams, 1996. {{ISBN|0-8109-6317-5}}
• Ashelford, Jane: A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century, Drama Books, 1983. {{ISBN|0-89676-076-6}}

{{Commons}}

• [http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/gable.html Tudor Gable Headdress: portfolio of images]
• [http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coif.html Tudor and Elizabethan coifs]

{{Historical clothing|state=expanded}}

Category:Headgear

Category:English clothing

Category:16th-century fashion

{{Clothing-stub}}