herringbone (cloth)

File:Donegal Tweed.JPG (an example of herringbone)]]

Herringbone, also called broken twill weave,{{Cite book|oclc=17932099|title=Fairchild's dictionary of fashion|last=Calasibetta|first=Charlotte Mankey|date=1988|publisher=Fairchild Publications|isbn=0870056352|location=New York|language=en|url-access=registration|url=https://archive.org/details/fairchildsdictio0000cala}} describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.{{cite web

| website = Ralph Lauren

| title = The RL Style Guide {{!}} Glossary {{!}} Herringbone

| url =http://style.polo.com/glossary/default.asp?letter=H

| access-date = 2008-11-24

|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111005182104/http://style.polo.com/glossary/default.asp?letter=H

|archive-date=2011-10-05 |url-status=dead}} Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear.{{Cite web

| author = Fashion Institute of Technology

| author-link = Fashion Institute of Technology

| website = The Museum at FIT

| title = "The Tailor's Art," Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary

| date = 2006

| url =http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/TailorsArt/MenswearFabricsGlossary.htm

| access-date = 2008-11-24

|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130605113404/http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/TailorsArt/MenswearFabricsGlossary.htm

|archive-date=2013-06-05 |url-status=dead}} Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Fatigue uniforms made from cotton in this weave were used by several militaries during and after World War II; in US use, they were often called HBTs.{{cite book |last1=Stanton |first1=Shelby |title=U.S. Army Uniforms of the Korean War |date=1992 |publisher=Stackpole Books |isbn=0811729524 |pages=86–98 |chapter=Summer Work and Service Uniforms}}{{cite news |last1=Robinson |first1=Aaron |title=Storming Normandy in a World War II Jeep |url=https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a16580560/storming-normandy-in-a-world-war-ii-jeep-feature/ |access-date=2019-04-29 |work=Car and Driver |publisher=Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. |date=2009-08-19}}

History

Various herringbone weaves have been found in antiquity:

A pair of woolen leggings found in the permafrost of the Italian-Austrian Alps have a 2:2 herringbone weave, dating to 800 to 500 BC.
A dark blue cloth with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Murabba'at Cave in Israel, from the Roman period.{{Cite conference |last=Fulbright |first=Diana |date=2010 |chapter=Akeldama repudiation of Turin Shroud omits evidence from the Judean Desert |chapter-url=http://www.acheiropoietos.info/proceedings/fulbrightakeldamaweb.pdf |title=Proceedings of the International Workshop on the Scientific Approach to the Acheiropoietos Images | url = https://www.pubblicazioni.enea.it/le-pubblicazioni-enea/edizioni-enea/anno-2010/proceedings-of-the-international-workshop-on-the-scientific-approach-to-the-acheiropoietos-images.html | editor=Paolo Di Lazzaro | isbn = 978-88-8286-232-9 | place= Frascati | publisher= ENEA}}{{Cite journal |last=Shamir |first=Orit |date=2015 |title=A burial textile from the first century CE in Jerusalem compared to roman textiles in the land of Israel and the Turin Shroud |url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/307702798 |journal=SHS Web of Conferences | doi= 10.1051/shsconf/20151500010 | doi-access=free | volume=15 |issn= 2261-2424 | publisher= EDP Sciences }}
A textile with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Pompeii, from 79 AD.
An illustration of a cloth having a herringbone weave from Antinoöpolis in Greece from 130 AD.{{Cite periodical |last=Tyrer |first=John |date=December 1981 |title=Looking at the Turin Shroud as a Textile |url=http://www.sindone.info/TYRER1.PDF |pages=20–23 |magazine=Textile Horizons |access-date=2023-12-01 |archive-date=2011-11-18 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111118160435/http://www.sindone.info/TYRER1.PDF |url-status=bot: unknown }}
The Falkirk Tartan, a wool 2:2 herringbone tartan from around 240 AD.{{Citation | mode=cs1| title= A History of Falkirk in 10 ½ Objects |last=Bailey |first=Geoff P. |date=2019 |chapter=The Falkirk Tartan |chapter-url=https://falkirklocalhistorysociety.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/object-4-falkirk-tartan.pdf | publisher = Falkirk Local History Society }}{{Cite web |title=Tartan Details - Falkirk |url=https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1146 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230118183212/https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1146 |archive-date=2023-01-18 |access-date=2023-02-01 |website=The Scottish Register of Tartans}}
Similar fabric fragments found at Vindolanda, south of Hadrian's Wall in England.

References

Category:Textile patterns

herringbone (cloth)

History

See also

References