jama (coat)

File:A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh.jpg wearing in 1829. the Sikh version of the Jama was shorter. ]]

File:Man's Robe (Jama) with Poppies MET DT11765.jpg]Some styles of the jama were tight around the torso but flared out like a skirt to below the knees or the ankles.

• The chakman jama, ended at around the knees. The sleeves tended to be full.{{cite book|title=The Complete Costume Dictionary|author=Lewandowski, E.J.|date=2011|publisher=Scarecrow Press|isbn=9780810877856|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA148|page=148|access-date=2021-01-30}} The jama was fastened to either side with strings with some styles also opening at the front.Goverdhan Panchal (1983) Bhavāī and Its Typical Āhārya: Costume, Make-up, and Props in Bhavāī, the Traditional Dramatic Form of Gujarāt

[https://books.google.com/books?id=nJPQAAAAMAAJ&q=jama+costume] What was originally male dress was also adopted by women who wore the jama with a scarf and tight fitting pajamas.{{cite book|title=Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design|author=Sumathi, G.J.|date=2007|publisher=New Age International|isbn=9788122413717|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4oO1sxv8jBwC&pg=PA139|page=139|access-date=2021-01-30}} The ties of the upper half of the jama are taken under the armpit and across the chest.Cohn, Bernard S. (1996) Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge: The British in India [https://books.google.com/books?id=uIalYaenrTkC&q=jama+dress]

• Chakdar jama Jama with chaks (slits) was a particular style of jama. It was the pointed jama which was like the standard Mughal jama but the skirt fell in four to six points instead of the circular hem of the Mughal jama. This jama may be derived from the Rajput court's takauchiahCondra, Jill (2008) The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History: 1501–1800 [https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&dq=chakdar+jama+dress+persian&pg=PA212] and therefore could be of local origin.Krishna Chaitanya (1992) History of Indian Painting: Rajasthani Traditions [https://books.google.com/books?id=qr2iZqOM3fsC&q=persian+painting&pg=PA18]

• During the Sikh reign the jama was no longer flowing but shorter and often tucked up around the waist to allow freedom of movement.Kumar, Raj (2006) Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. [https://books.google.com/books?id=f-1XyQ2eIG8C&dq=sikh+jama+dress&pg=PA99] A similar dress, called the chola, was worn by the Sikhs Gurus.{{Cite web |title=ਚੋਲਾ ਗੁਰੂ ਕਾ - ਪੰਜਾਬੀ ਪੀਡੀਆ |trans-title=Cholas of the Gurus |url=https://punjabipedia.org/topic.aspx?txt=%25u0a1a%25u0a4b%25u0a32%25u0a3e+%25u0a17%25u0a41%25u0a30%25u0a42+%25u0a15%25u0a3e |access-date=2022-09-05 |website=punjabipedia.org |language=Punjabi}}
• During the 19th and 20th centuries A.D. the jama was reduced to a shirt like garment in the northern (upper) parts of British India.Miller, Daniel (2001) Consumption: The history and regional development of consumption [https://books.google.com/books?id=39wzrWv2WY4C&dq=punjabi+jama+upper+garment&pg=PA414]
• Farzi (coat) was a coat with short sleeves and fur collars, opened in front. The length was shorter than Jama. Farzi was a winter's garment. Mughal emperors and courtiers were wearing it over the Jama, fastened with a decorated piece of cloth, i.e., Katzeb around the waist area with loosely hanging ends.
• Hindu and Muslim Jamas – Hindus and Muslims were wearing the same garment with little different styles, Hindus were fastening the Jama on the left side of the body, and the Muslims tied it on the right-hand side.{{Cite book|last=Kumar|first=Ritu|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ|title=Costumes and Textiles of Royal India|date=2006|publisher=Antique Collectors' Club|isbn=978-1-85149-509-2|location=|pages=39|language=en}}{{Cite book|last=|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ynIMAQAAMAAJ|title=The India Magazine of Her People and Culture|date=1992|publisher=A. H. Advani|isbn=|location=|pages=21|language=en}}

Nimjama (Neema or Nima) was an undergarment for the upper body. The courtiers wore it underneath the costumes, such as Jama (coat). The style was similar to a vest half sleeves garment. Nimajama was aided with strings to tie in front; the length was up to the knees only, shorter than the Jama. It was an indispensable part of the Mughal attire.{{Cite book|last=|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Fysy184YPqIC|title=The Illustrated Weekly of India|date=1969|publisher=Published for the proprietors, Bennett, Coleman & Company, Limited, at the Times of India Press|isbn=|location=|pages=8|language=en}}

File:The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi.jpg|The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi

File:Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II.jpg|Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II

File:Asifportrait2 - Asuf ud Daula.jpg|NAWAB OF OUDH, ASAF-UD-DAULA, LUCKNOW, INDIA, CIRCA 1785–90

File:Nawab Shuja al-Daula and his heir Asaf al-Daula in Faizabad.jpg|Nawab Shuja al-Daula and his heir Asaf al-Daula in Faizabad

File:Three men in traditional dress, mosaic, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India.jpg|Three men in traditional dress, mosaic, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

File:Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh.jpg|Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh

File:The vizier Qamar ud-Din circa 1735 Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris.jpg|The vizier Qamar ud-Din circa 1735

File:Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas.jpg|Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas

File:The Adventures of Akbar artillery.jpg|Mughal Army artillerymen during the reign of Akbar.

File:Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho).jpg|Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho)

In Gujarat, the jama began to lose popularity by the end of the 19th century A.D.{{cite book|title=Indian Costume|author=Ghurye, G.S.|date=1966|publisher=Popular Prakashan|isbn=9788171544035|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=irh9dvlLz3MC&pg=PA154|page=154|access-date=2021-01-30}} However, men in parts of Kutch still wear the jama also known as the angarkha{{cite book|title=Fashions from India|author=Tierney, T.|date=2013|publisher=Dover Publications|isbn=9780486430409|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hdOsQadR9_cC&pg=PA4|page=4|access-date=2021-01-30}} which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips.{{cite web|url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000902/windows/main7.htm|title=The Tribune - Windows - Featured story|website=tribuneindia.com|access-date=2021-01-30}} However, some styles fall to below the knees.

File:Navratri Garba.jpg|Man on the left in Gujarati jama/angarkha

• Dashiki
• Kaftan
• Robe
• Tunic
• Terlig
• Angarkha
• Kurta
• Katzeb
• Farzi (coat)

{{Reflist}}

{{Clothing in South Asia}}

{{Punjabi clothing}}

Category:Mughal clothing