low-rise (fashion)
{{short description|Clothing which sits low on or below the hips}}
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| caption1 = Porn star Damien Crosse in low-rise clothing at Folsom Street Fair 2010
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| caption2 = Porn star Raven Riley in low-rise clothing at AVN Adult Entertainment Expo 2008
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Low-rise is a style of clothing designed to sit low on, or below, the hips. The style has also been called lowcut, hipster, bumster, or hip-hugger,{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=aZ-BAAAAMAAJ&q=Hipsters |title=Fashion in Costume, 1200–1980 |author=Nunn, Joan |publisher=Herbert Press |year=1984 |access-date=11 August 2011 |isbn=9780906969373}} and can apply to garments worn by all genders. The term can be applied to all garments that cover the wearer's crotch area, including trousers, jeans, shorts, skirts, panties, briefs, bikinis, pantyhose, and tights.{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MvilOZhaRkAC&q=Low+rise+fashion |title=As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising |author=Hill, Daniel Delis |publisher=Texas Tech University Press |date=1 September 2007 |access-date=11 August 2011 |isbn=9780896726161}}
Terminology
The "rise" of a bottom garment is measured by the distance between the crotch and the waistline or top of the garment and is usually around {{convert|12|in|cm}} on regular pants. The average rise of a low-rise garment is roughly {{convert|8|in|cm}} with some as little as {{convert|3|to|4|in|cm}}. A normal low-rise sits at least {{convert|2|to|3|in|cm|sigfig=1}} below the navel. A "super" or an "ultra low-rise" sits at {{convert|4|to|5|in|cm}} below the navel.{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2HFOyFFv3wUC&q=Low+rise+fashion |title=Good Girls Don't Have to Dress Bad: A Style Guide for Every Woman |author=Braendel, Shari |publisher=Zondervan |year=2010 |isbn=978-0-310-32601-4 |access-date=11 August 2011}}
Low-rise jeans may be worn with crop tops to expose skin at the waist, torso, and hips, sometimes showing the midriff and navel, especially in warm climates.Janelle Brown, [http://www.salon.com/mwt/style/2002/05/28/booty_call/ "Here come the buns"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060219202751/http://www.salon.com/mwt/style/2002/05/28/booty_call/ |date=2006-02-19 }}, Salon.com, May 28, 2002.Jennifer D'Angelo, [https://www.foxnews.com/story/cleavage-fashion-flips-upside-down "Cleavage Fashion Flips Upside Down"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230401213612/https://www.foxnews.com/story/cleavage-fashion-flips-upside-down |date=2023-04-01 }}, FOXNews.com, December 5, 2001.
History
The 1990s revival of low-rise jeans can be credited to British fashion designer Alexander McQueen, who first showed low-rise "bumster" trousers in his 1993 Taxi Driver collection. One commentator observed: "The bumster for me is what defined McQueen. For me it was the look that put him on the map because it was controversial. Those little bumsters were in his first shows. It was like 20 people in England were wearing them back then."{{cite web|title=Six ways Alexander McQueen changed fashion|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/8511404.stm|work=BBC News Magazine|publisher=BBC|accessdate=27 May 2012|author=Rajini Vaidyanathan|date=12 February 2010|archive-date=9 April 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120409051725/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/8511404.stm|url-status=live}}{{cite web|title=Alexander McQueen Fashion Designer (1969 - 2010)|url=http://designmuseum.org/design/alexander-mcqueen|work=Design Museum: London|publisher=British Council|accessdate=27 May 2012|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20101123105310/http://designmuseum.org/design/alexander-mcqueen|archivedate=23 November 2010}} The low-rise fashion expanded in the early 1990s after the March 1993 issue of the British magazine The Face which featured Kate Moss in low-rise jeans.{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ziUAAAAAMBAJ&q=New+York+Magazine%E2%80%8E+Navel |title=Navel Maneuvers |work=New York Magazine |date=10 May 1993 |page=26 |access-date=11 August 2011}}
Clothing manufacturer Levi Strauss & Co. introduced low-rise jeans in December 2000, the tops of which were about {{convert|3|in|cm|frac=2|spell=in}} below the navel, with a zipper of a mere {{convert|3+1/4|in|cm}} long. Backs were also cut low, but not so low that they exposed backside cleavage.{{cite web|last=SUSAN PHINNEY|title=Navel maneuvers: Hip-huggers and short tops are hot this season|url=http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/article/Navel-maneuvers-Hip-huggers-and-short-tops-are-1060310.php|publisher=Seattlepi|access-date=15 March 2012|archive-date=29 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201029131757/https://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/article/Navel-maneuvers-Hip-huggers-and-short-tops-are-1060310.php|url-status=live}} It later adopted the style in men's wear.{{Cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=kTYxAAAAIBAJ&sjid=9f0DAAAAIBAJ&pg=6794,8532147&dq=low+rise+men&hl=en |title=Lakeland Ledger - Jul 29, 2002 |access-date=September 21, 2016 |archive-date=January 1, 2025 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250101174742/https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=kTYxAAAAIBAJ&sjid=9f0DAAAAIBAJ&pg=6794,8532147&dq=low+rise+men&hl=en |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=bDkjAAAAIBAJ&sjid=G4oFAAAAIBAJ&pg=2437,619073&dq=low+rise+men&hl=en |title=The Sunday Gazette - Sep 3, 2002 |access-date=September 21, 2016 |archive-date=January 1, 2025 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250101174916/https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=bDkjAAAAIBAJ&sjid=G4oFAAAAIBAJ&pg=2437,619073&dq=low+rise+men&hl=en |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2003/01/12/style/pulse-sling-low-swing-high.html |title=PULSE - Sling Low, Swing High - The New York Times |access-date=2017-02-19 |archive-date=2020-10-26 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201026134819/https://www.nytimes.com/2003/01/12/style/pulse-sling-low-swing-high.html |url-status=live }} Gradually the wide acceptance of low-rise pants by men led to low-rise swimwear and underpants.{{Cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=7sJQAAAAIBAJ&sjid=SMcMAAAAIBAJ&pg=4508,4531008&dq=low+rise+men&hl=en |title=The Southeast Missourian - Aug 4, 2002 |access-date=September 21, 2016 |archive-date=January 1, 2025 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250101175212/https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=7sJQAAAAIBAJ&sjid=SMcMAAAAIBAJ&pg=4508,4531008&dq=low+rise+men&hl=en |url-status=live }}[https://books.google.com/books?id=ZnSBRxsjn_4C&q=low+rise+&pg=PA98 Boy culture - an encyclopedia, Volume 1 - Shirley R. Steinberg, Michael Kehler, Lindsay Cornish]
Britney Spears is credited with popularizing the fashion in the US in the early 2000s.{{cite web|title=Jeans Rising|url=http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2006/03/26/jeans-rising.html|work=The Daily Beast|publisher=Newsweek Magazine|accessdate=27 May 2012|date=26 March 2006|archive-date=17 October 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121017082602/http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2006/03/26/jeans-rising.html|url-status=live}}{{cite web |url=https://secure.gilroydispatch.com/lifestyles/194305-low-rise-jeans-unflattering-to-moms---thanks-a-lot-britney-spears |title=GilroyDispatch.com | Low-rise Jeans Unflattering to Moms - Thanks a Lot, Britney Spears |accessdate=2008-10-25 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20110711093027/https://secure.gilroydispatch.com/lifestyles/194305-low-rise-jeans-unflattering-to-moms---thanks-a-lot-britney-spears |archivedate=2011-07-11 }}The Gilroy Dispatch - Low-rise Jeans Unflattering to Moms - Thanks a Lot, Britney Spears From 2001 to 2007, low-rise jeans often exposed thongs or G-strings, but this declined after 2007. Sitting or bending could reveal buttock cleavage, while thongs visible above the waistband were called "whale tails" due to their shape. Exposed, sagging boxer shorts also became common. As underwear became more visible, men and women increasingly chose styles to complement low-rise jeans.Janelle Brown, [http://www.salon.com/mwt/style/2002/05/28/booty_call/ "Here come the buns"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060219202751/http://www.salon.com/mwt/style/2002/05/28/booty_call/ |date=2006-02-19 }}, Salon.com, May 28, 2002.Jennifer D'Angelo, [https://www.foxnews.com/story/cleavage-fashion-flips-upside-down "Cleavage Fashion Flips Upside Down"], FOXNews.com, December 5, 2001.
The trend became so popular that in 2002, a Barbie doll wearing low-rise jeans named "My Scene" Barbie was introduced in stores. The doll was created in an attempt to appeal to older girls in the tween demographic who may find the My Scene Barbie's fashion style to be more realistic and modern.{{cite news|title=A sexier, hipper Barbie hits shelves|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=xlkeAAAAIBAJ&pg=1235,4052048&dq=navel+expose&hl=en|access-date=15 March 2012|newspaper=Times Daily|date=Nov 28, 2002|archive-date=1 January 2025|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250101175327/https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=xlkeAAAAIBAJ&pg=1235,4052048&dq=navel+expose&hl=en|url-status=live}}{{cite news|title=HIP, NEW BARBIE HITS STORE SHELVES, JUST IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS WISH LISTS|url=http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_product=DDNB&p_theme=ddnb&p_action=search&p_maxdocs=200&p_topdoc=1&p_text_direct-0=0F7A1D4E61F11C63&p_field_direct-0=document_id&p_perpage=10&p_sort=YMD_date:D&s_trackval=GooglePM|access-date=15 March 2012|newspaper=Dayton Daily News|date=November 28, 2002|archive-date=24 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201024171535/http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_product=DDNB&p_theme=ddnb&p_action=search&p_maxdocs=200&p_topdoc=1&p_text_direct-0=0F7A1D4E61F11C63&p_field_direct-0=document_id&p_perpage=10&p_sort=YMD_date:D&s_trackval=GooglePM|url-status=live}}
The trend was also in style during the 2020s. Kathryn Newton wore a two piece midriff baring school girl style outfit with a low rise skirt exposing her belly button at San Diego Comic-Con in 2022.{{cite web | url=https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/kathryn-newton-school-girl-uniform-trend-miu-miu-prada-comic-con | title=Kathryn Newton's Latest Look is Prada's Answer to the Miu Miu Mini | date=26 July 2022 | access-date=17 December 2023 | archive-date=28 November 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231128195233/https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/kathryn-newton-school-girl-uniform-trend-miu-miu-prada-comic-con | url-status=live }}
Indian fashion
The term is applied to saris and Ghagra cholis especially in India and Indian diaspora communities. Many Indian women began to wear the normal sari below the waistline exposing the navel, which is known as low-rise sari.[https://books.google.com/books?id=Y9ukaQcdV9oC&q=belly+button+sari Aging and menopause among Indian South African women – Brian M. Du Toit]. This type of sari is worn such that the petticoat is tied at some inches below the navel and just above the pubic area. Similarly, the lehengas of ghagra cholis are also worn in low-rise. Designer Manish Malhotra's Fashion Week collections regularly highlight low waisted ghaghras accompanied by short cholis.[http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/bollywood-deepika-padukone-katrina-navel-look-is-new-cleavage-for-sexy-indian-women-and-re-emergence-of-sari/1/140273.html "Rise of the Navel 'Bollywood navel fashion has led to re-emergence of sari'"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151208153216/http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/bollywood-deepika-padukone-katrina-navel-look-is-new-cleavage-for-sexy-indian-women-and-re-emergence-of-sari/1/140273.html |date=2015-12-08 }}. India TodayDatta-Ray, Sunanda K. (28 April 2005) [https://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/27/opinion/27iht-eddatta.html Meanwhile: Unraveling the sari] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141216004128/https://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/27/opinion/27iht-eddatta.html |date=2014-12-16 }}. The New York Times. This were made popular by women celebrities of Bollywood industry and other popular regional film industries like Tamil cinema and Telugu cinema. These are mainly worn by the rich, educated upper-class women who consider navel exposure as a fashion.[https://books.google.com/books?id=nXNqTlwhtl0C&q=fashion+expose+saree Dress and gender: making and meaning in cultural contexts – Ruth Barnes].[https://books.google.com/books?id=nr2724-bOfMC&q=belly+button+sari The cultures of economic migration: international perspectives – Suman Gupta, Tope Omoniyi]. However, sometimes, the navel is covered with the pallu in a low-rise non-transparent sari, as well.
Dress codes
In 2004 Vitruvio Pollione Scientific High School, Avezzano, central Italy, asked students to stop wearing low-slung trousers that expose navels, underwear etc., Deputy Principal Nazzareno Desiderio elaborated in a phone interview: "It's a piece of advice, for their educational reflection." Inspired by the decision in Avezzano, the principal of Rome's Visconti High School Antonino Grasso had suggested that students show less skin and proposed a debate on the matter. In an interview he commented, "Today, boys are less tickled by such visions (of skin), because there's no more big effect in seeing a girl's legs or shoulders, lower back and navel".{{cite news|title=Italian school says 'enough' over low-rise pants|url=https://www.usatoday.com/news/offbeat/2004-10-19-italy-pants_x.htm|access-date=15 March 2012|newspaper=USA TODAY|date=2004-10-19}}{{cite news|author=Angela Dondald|title=Low-rise pants cause minor uprising in Italy|url=http://www.iol.co.za/news/world/low-rise-pants-cause-minor-uprising-in-italy-1.224571|access-date=15 March 2012|newspaper=iOL News|date=October 19, 2004}}
In some corporations in India, saris are required to be worn in an elegant manner, avoiding navel exposure.{{cite book|author=Dr Saurabh Bhatia |title=Indian Corporate Etiquette |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bmnto6wQ-8cC |access-date=11 June 2011 |publisher=Saurabh Bhatia |isbn=978-81-906964-0-1}} Anita Gupta, senior vice-president at JWT Chennai commented, "Formal wear for women definitely covers saris without plunging necklines or glimpses of the belly button".{{cite news|author=Nina Varghese, Raja Simhan T.E.|title=The workplace look|url=http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/todays-paper/article1759121.ece|access-date=18 March 2012|newspaper=The Business Line|date=October 27, 2006|archive-date=27 October 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131027195256/http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/todays-paper/article1759121.ece|url-status=live}}
Low-rise clothing is completely forbidden in certain countries around the world, including Iran, Libya, Algeria, Afghanistan, and Yemen.{{Cite web |url=http://yomag.co.uk/fashion-and-dress-code-around-the-world/ |title=Fashion & Dress Code Around the World |access-date=2017-02-12 |archive-date=2017-02-13 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170213090346/http://yomag.co.uk/fashion-and-dress-code-around-the-world/ |url-status=dead }}
See also
References
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