sunless tanning
{{short description|Indoor tanning lotion}}
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{{Use dmy dates|date=August 2022}}
File:QT Tanning Lotion 1960s (8194811811).jpg
Sunless tanning{{efn|Also known as UV filled tanning, self tanning, spray tanning (when applied topically), or fake tanning.}} refers to the effect of a suntan without exposure to the Sun. Sunless tanning involves the use of oral agents (carotenids), or creams, lotions or sprays applied to the skin.{{Cite web |title=Sunless tanning: What you need to know |url=https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/in-depth/sunless-tanning/art-20046803 |website=Mayo Clinic|date=30 May 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190524072920/https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/in-depth/sunless-tanning/art-20046803 |archive-date=24 May 2019 }} Skin-applied products may be skin-reactive agents or temporary bronzers (colorants).
Sunless tanning has emerged as an alternative to UV exposure (from sunlight or indoor tanning), which has been linked to increased risk of skin cancer.{{Cite journal |last1=Armstrong |first1=Bruce K |last2=Kricker |first2=Anne |date=2001-10-01 |title=The epidemiology of UV induced skin cancer |url=https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1011134401001981 |journal=Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology |series=Consequences of exposure to sunlight:elements to assess protection |volume=63 |issue=1 |pages=8–18 |doi=10.1016/S1011-1344(01)00198-1 |pmid=11684447 |bibcode=2001JPPB...63....8A |issn=1011-1344|url-access=subscription }}{{Cite journal |last1=Misitzis |first1=Angelica |last2=Weinstock |first2=Martin A. |date=2019-12-01 |title=Increased interest in sunless tanning versus tanning beds in the United States: A Google Trends analysis |url=https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(19)30980-6/fulltext |journal=Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology |language=English |volume=81 |issue=6 |pages=1438–1439 |doi=10.1016/j.jaad.2019.06.017 |issn=0190-9622 |pmid=31629620}}
The chemical compound dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is used in sunless tanning products in concentrations of 3%-5%.Zoe Kececioglu Draelos. (2019). Cosmetics and dermatologic problems and solutions. Boca Raton: Crc Press. DHA concentration is adjusted to provide darker and lighter shades of tan. The reaction of keratin protein present in skin and DHA is responsible for the production of pigmentation.James Rippe. (2013). Lifestyle Medicine, Second Edition. Editorial: Crc Press.
Oral agents (carotenoids)
{{Anchor|Oral agents}}
{{Anchor|Carotenoids}}
A safe and effective method of sunless tanning is consumption of certain carotenoids{{cite journal |vauthors=Stahl W, Heinrich U, Aust O, Tronnier H, Sies H |title=Lycopene-rich products and dietary photoprotection |journal=Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences |volume=5 |issue=2 |pages=238–42 | date=February 2006 |pmid=16465309 |doi=10.1039/b505312a|s2cid=17706826 |doi-access=free |bibcode=2006PhPhS...5..238S }}{{closed access}}{{cite journal |vauthors=Stahl W, Heinrich U, Wiseman S, Eichler O, Sies H, Tronnier H |title=Dietary tomato paste protects against ultraviolet light-induced erythema in humans |journal=The Journal of Nutrition |volume=131 |issue=5 |pages=1449–51 | date=May 2001 |pmid=11340098 |doi=10.1093/jn/131.5.1449 |doi-access=free }}{{cite journal |vauthors=Stahl W, Sies H |title=Carotenoids and protection against solar UV radiation |journal=Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology |volume=15 |issue=5 |pages=291–6 |year=2002 |pmid=12239422 |doi=10.1159/000064532|s2cid=10464154 }}{{closed access}}—antioxidants found in some fruits and vegetables such as carrots and tomatoes—which can result in changes to skin color when ingested chronically and/or in high amounts. Carotenoids are long-lasting. In addition, carotenoids have been linked to a more attractive skin tone (defined as a more golden skin color) than suntan.{{cite web | url = http://www.psypost.org/2011/01/carotenoids-attractive-skin-tone-3547 | title = Carotenoids linked to attractive skin tone | date = 11 January 2011 | publisher = PsyPost | editor=Dolan, Eric W. }} Carotenes also fulfil the function of melanin in absorbing UV radiation and protecting the skin.{{cite journal |vauthors=Stahl W, Sies H |title=β-Carotene and other carotenoids in protection from sunlight |journal=The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition |volume=96 |issue=5 |pages=1179S–84S | date=November 2012 |pmid=23053552 |doi=10.3945/ajcn.112.034819|doi-access=free }} For example, they are concentrated in the macula of the eye to protect the retina from damage. They are used in plants both to protect chlorophyll from light damage and harvest light directly.{{cite journal |vauthors=Armstrong GA, Hearst JE |title=Carotenoids 2: Genetics and molecular biology of carotenoid pigment biosynthesis |journal=The FASEB Journal |volume=10 |issue=2 |pages=228–37 |year=1996 |pmid=8641556 |doi=10.1096/fasebj.10.2.8641556 |doi-access=free |s2cid=22385652 }}
Carotenaemia (xanthaemia) is the presence in blood of the yellow pigment carotene from excessive intake of carrots or other vegetables containing the pigment resulting in increased serum carotenoids. It can lead to subsequent yellow-orange discoloration (xanthoderma or carotenoderma) and their subsequent deposition in the outermost layer of skin. Carotenemia, or carotenoderma, is in itself harmless, and does not require treatment. In primary carotenoderma, when the use of high quantities of carotene is discontinued the skin color will return to normal. It may take up to several months, however, for this to happen.{{Cite web |title=Carotenosis |url=http://www.mc3cb.com/pdf_articles_interest_physiology/2012_1_30_Carotenosis.pdf}}{{Cite web |date=2023-10-26 |title=Carotenaemia (carotenemia), carotenosis |url=https://dermnetnz.org/topics/carotenoderma |access-date=2024-10-21 |website=DermNet® |language=en}}
=Lycopene=
Lycopene is a key intermediate in the biosynthesis of beta-carotene and xanthophylls.
Lycopene may be the most powerful carotenoid quencher of singlet oxygen.{{cite journal |last1=Di Mascio |first1=Paolo |last2=Kaiser |first2=Stephan |last3=Sies |first3=Helmut |title=Lycopene as the most efficient biological carotenoid singlet oxygen quencher |journal=Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics |volume=274 |issue=2 |year=1989 |issn=0003-9861 |doi=10.1016/0003-9861(89)90467-0 |pmid=2802626 |pages=532–538 |oclc=4922826134}}
Due to its strong color and non-toxicity, lycopene is a useful food coloring (registered as E160d) and is approved for usage in the US,{{Cite web |url=https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.585 |title=21CFR73.585|website=www.accessdata.fda.gov|series=CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060927063849/http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.585|archive-date=27 September 2006|url-status=dead|access-date=4 June 2018}} Australia and New Zealand (registered as 160d)Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code{{cite web |url=http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2011C00827 |title=Standard 1.2.4 - Labelling of ingredients |date=8 September 2011 |access-date=27 October 2011}} and the EU.UK Food Standards Agency: {{cite web |url=http://www.food.gov.uk/safereating/chemsafe/additivesbranch/enumberlist |title=Current EU approved additives and their E Numbers |access-date=27 October 2011}}
=Beta-carotene=
Sunless-tanning pills often contain β-carotene. The American Cancer Society states that "Although the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved some of these additives for coloring food, they are not approved for use in tanning agents." Also that "They may be harmful at the high levels that are used in tanning pills."{{cite web|url=https://www.cancer.org/cancer/skin-cancer/prevention-and-early-detection/tanning-pills-and-products.html|title=Tanning pills and accelerators|access-date=1 April 2018}}
Chronic, high doses of synthetic β-carotene supplements have been associated with increased rate of lung cancer among those who smoke.{{cite journal |vauthors=Tanvetyanon T, Bepler G |title=Beta-carotene in multivitamins and the possible risk of lung cancer among smokers versus former smokers: a meta-analysis and evaluation of national brands |journal=Cancer |volume=113 |issue=1 |pages=150–7 |date=July 2008 |pmid=18429004 |doi=10.1002/cncr.23527 |doi-access= |s2cid=33827601 }}
=Canthaxanthin=
Canthaxanthin is most commonly used as a color additive in certain foods. Although the FDA has approved the use of canthaxanthin in food, it does not approve its use as a tanning agent and has issued warnings concerning its use.{{Cite journal |last=Commissioner |first=Office of the |date=2024-08-22 |title=Tanning Pills |url=https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/tanning-pills#:~:text=Although%20canthaxanthin%20is%20approved%20by,products%20containing%20unsafe%20color%20additives%20. |journal=FDA |language=en}} When used as a color additive, only very small amounts of canthaxanthin are needed. As a tanning agent, however, much larger quantities are used. After canthaxanthin is consumed, it is deposited throughout the body, including in the layer of fat below the skin, which turns an orange-brown color. These types of tanning pills have been linked to various side effects, including hepatitis and canthaxanthin retinopathy, a condition in which yellow deposits form in the retina of the eye.{{Cite web |title=Crystalline Retinopathy - EyeWiki |url=https://eyewiki.org/Crystalline_Retinopathy#cite_note-:5-3 |access-date=2024-12-31 |website=eyewiki.org |language=en}}{{Cite journal |last=Sujak |first=Agnieszka |date=2009-01-01 |title=Interactions between canthaxanthin and lipid membranes — possible mechanisms of canthaxanthin toxicity |journal=Cellular and Molecular Biology Letters |volume=14 |issue=3 |pages=395–410 |doi=10.2478/s11658-009-0010-8 |issn=1689-1392 |pmc=6275664 |pmid=19214394}} Other side effects including damage to the digestive system and skin surface have also been noted.{{Cite web |title=Canthaxanthin: Overview, Uses, Side Effects, Precautions, Interactions, Dosing and Reviews |url=https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-846/canthaxanthin |access-date=2024-11-21 |website=www.webmd.com |language=en}}{{Cite web |title=Canthaxanthin: Health Benefits, Side Effects, Uses, Dose & Precautions |url=https://www.rxlist.com/supplements/canthaxanthin.htm |access-date=2024-12-31 |website=RxList |language=en}}
Skin-reactive agents
=DHA-based products=
{{main|Dihydroxyacetone}}
DHA (dihydroxyacetone, also known as glycerone) is not a dye, stain or paint, but causes a chemical reaction with the amino acids in the dead layer on the skin surface. One of the pathways is a free radical-mediated Maillard reaction.{{cite book |last1=Namiki |first1=Mitsuo |last2=Hayashi |first2=Tateki |year=1983 |chapter=A New Mechanism of the Maillard Reaction Involving Sugar Fragmentation and Free Radical Formation |pages=21–46 |doi=10.1021/bk-1983-0215.ch002 |title=The Maillard Reaction in Foods and Nutrition |volume=215 |series=ACS Symposium Series |isbn=978-0-8412-0769-1}}{{cite journal | doi = 10.1046/j.0022-202x.2001.01448.x | title = In Vivo Formation of Maillard Reaction Free Radicals in Mouse Skin | year = 2001 | last1 = Lloyd | first1 = Roger V | last2 = Fong | first2 = Anna J | last3 = Sayre | first3 = Robert M | journal = Journal of Investigative Dermatology | volume = 117 | issue = 3 | pages = 740–2 | pmid = 11564185| doi-access = free }} The other pathway is the conventional Maillard reaction, a process well known to food chemists that causes the browning that occurs during food manufacturing and storage. It does not involve the underlying skin pigmentation nor does it require exposure to ultraviolet light to initiate the color change. However, for the 24 hours after self-tanner is applied, the skin is especially susceptible to ultraviolet, according to a 2007 study led by Katinka Jung of the Gematria Test Lab in Berlin.{{cite journal |vauthors=Jung K, Seifert M, Herrling T, Fuchs J |title=UV-generated free radicals (FR) in skin: their prevention by sunscreens and their induction by self-tanning agents |journal=Spectrochimica Acta Part A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy |volume=69 |issue=5 |pages=1423–8 | date=May 2008 |pmid=18024196 |doi=10.1016/j.saa.2007.09.029|bibcode=2008AcSpA..69.1423J }} Forty minutes after the researchers treated skin samples with high levels of DHA they found that more than 180 percent additional free radicals formed during sun exposure compared with untreated skin. Another self-tanner ingredient, erythrulose, produced a similar response at high levels. For a day after self-tanner application, excessive sun exposure should be avoided and sunscreen should be worn outdoors, they say; an antioxidant cream could also minimize free radical production. Although some self-tanners contain sunscreen, its effect will not last long after application, and a fake tan itself will not protect the skin from UV exposure. The study by Jung et al. further confirms earlier results demonstrating that dihydroxyacetone in combination with dimethylisosorbide enhances the process of (sun-based) tanning. This earlier study also found that dihydroxyacetone also has an effect on the amino acids and nucleic acids which is bad for the skin.{{cite journal |vauthors=Benamar N, Laplante AF, Lahjomri F, Leblanc RM |date=Oct 2004 | title = Modulated photoacoustic spectroscopy study of an artificial tanning on human skin induced by dihydroxyacetone | journal = Physiological Measurement | volume = 25 | issue = 5| pages = 1199–210 | doi = 10.1088/0967-3334/25/5/010 | pmid = 15535185 |bibcode=2004PhyM...25.1199B |s2cid=20591508 }}
The free radicals are due to the action of UV light on AGE (advanced glycation end-products) as a result of the reaction of DHA with the skin, and the intermediates, such as Amadori products (a type of AGE), that lead to them. AGEs are behind the damage to the skin that occurs with high blood sugar in diabetes where similar glycation occurs.{{cite journal |vauthors=Oak J, Nakagawa K, Miyazawa T |title=Synthetically prepared Aamadori-glycated phosphatidylethanolaminecan trigger lipid peroxidation via free radical reactions |journal=FEBS Letters |volume=481 |issue=1 |pages=26–30 | date=September 2000 |pmid=10984609 |doi=10.1016/S0014-5793(00)01966-9|doi-access=free |bibcode=2000FEBSL.481...26O }} AGEs absorb and provide a little protection against some of the damaging factors of UV (up to SPF 3),{{cite journal |vauthors=Faurschou A, Wulf HC |title=Durability of the sun protection factor provided by dihydroxyacetone |journal=Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine |volume=20 |issue=5 |pages=239–42 | date=October 2004 |pmid=15379873 |doi=10.1111/j.1600-0781.2004.00118.x|s2cid=35465870 }}{{cite journal |vauthors=Petersen AB, Na R, Wulf HC |title=Sunless skin tanning with dihydroxyacetone delays broad-spectrum ultraviolet photocarcinogenesis in hairless mice |journal=Mutation Research |volume=542 |issue=1–2 |pages=129–38 | date=December 2003 |pmid=14644361 |doi=10.1016/j.mrgentox.2003.09.003|bibcode=2003MRGTE.542..129P }} However, they do not have melanin's extended electronic structure that dissipates the energy, so part of it goes towards starting free radical chain reactions instead, in which other AGEs participate readily. Overall tanner enhances free radical injury. Although some self-tanners contain sunscreen, its effect will not last as long as the tan. The stated SPF is only applicable for a few hours after application. Despite darkening of the skin, an individual is still susceptible to UV rays, therefore an overall sun protection is still very necessary.{{cite web|url=http://www.dermnetnz.org/treatments/dihydroxyacetone.html/ |title=Dihydroxyacetone, tanning cream, sunless tanning. DermNet NZ |publisher=Dermnetnz.org |date=29 August 2015 |access-date=27 February 2016}} There may also be some inhibition of vitamin D production in DHA-treated skin.{{cite journal |vauthors=Armas LA, Fusaro RM, Sayre RM, Huerter CJ, Heaney RP |title=Do melanoidins induced by topical 9% dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning spray inhibit vitamin d production? A pilot study |journal=Photochemistry and Photobiology |volume=85 |issue=5 |pages=1265–6 |year=2009 |pmid=19496990 |doi=10.1111/j.1751-1097.2009.00574.x|s2cid=6733532 }}
The color effect is temporary and fades gradually over 3 to 10 days. Some of these products also use erythrulose which works identically to DHA, but develops more slowly. Both DHA and erythrulose have been known to cause contact dermatitis.{{Cite journal |last1=Newton |first1=Jazmin |last2=Ogunremi |first2=Oluwafunke |last3=Paulsen |first3=Riley T. |last4=Lien |first4=Molly |last5=Sievers |first5=Meaghan |last6=Greenway Bietz |first6=Mandi |date=2024-02-08 |title=A cross-sectional review of contact allergens in popular self-tanning products |journal=International Journal of Women's Dermatology |language=en |volume=10 |issue=1 |pages=e134 |doi=10.1097/JW9.0000000000000134 |pmid=38332994 |pmc=10852387 |issn=2352-6475 }}
Professional spray tan applications are available from spas, salons and gymnasiums by both hand-held sprayers and in the form of sunless or UV-Free spray booths. Spray tan applications are also available through online retail distribution channels and are widely available to purchase for in home use.{{Cite web|url=https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm134064.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090611074118/http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm134064.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=11 June 2009|title=FDA Comments on Sunless Tanners and Bronzers|website=Food and Drug Administration}} The enclosed booth, which resembles an enclosed shower stall, sprays the tanning solution over the entire body. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) states when using DHA-containing products as an all-over spray or mist in a commercial spray "tanning" booth, it may be difficult to avoid exposure in a manner for which DHA is not approved, including the area of the eyes, lips, or mucous membrane, or even internally. DHA is not approved by the FDA for inhalation.
An opinion{{Cite book |last=SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) |url=https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_048.pdf |title=Opinion on dihydroxyacetone |date=14 December 2010 |publisher=European Union |isbn=978-92-79-12767-0 |doi=10.2772/29632}} issued by the European Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, concluding spray tanning with DHA did not pose risk, has been heavily criticized by specialists.{{cite web|url=https://abcnews.go.com/Health/safety-popular-spray-tans-question-protected/story?id=16542918&page=4 |title=Safety of Popular 'Spray On' Tans in Question; Are You Protected? - ABC News |publisher=Abcnews.go.com |date=12 June 2012 |access-date=27 February 2016}} This is because the cosmetics industry in Europe chose the evidence to review, according to the commission itself. Thus, nearly every report the commission's eventual opinion referenced came from studies that were never published or peer-reviewed and, in the majority of cases, were performed by companies or industry groups linked to the manufacturing of DHA. The industry left out nearly all of the peer-reviewed studies published in publicly available scientific journals that identified DHA as a potential mutagen. A study by scientists from the Department of Dermatology, Bispebjerg Hospital, published in Mutation Research has concluded DHA 'induces DNA damage, cell-cycle block and apoptosis' in cultured cells.{{cite journal|url=http://www.deepdyve.com/lp/elsevier/dihydroxyacetone-the-active-browning-ingredient-in-sunless-tanning-UtUd1Dv207 |title=Dihydroxyacetone, the active browning ingredient in sunless tanning lotions, induces DNA damage, cell-cycle block and apoptosis in cultured HaCaT keratinocytes |journal=Mutation Research/Genetic Toxicology and Environmental Mutagenesis |volume=560 |issue=2 |pages=173–186 |date=13 June 2004 |access-date=27 February 2016|doi=10.1016/j.mrgentox.2004.03.002 |pmid=15157655 |last1=Petersen |first1=Anita B. |last2=Wulf |first2=Hans Christian |last3=Gniadecki |first3=Robert |last4=Gajkowska |first4=Barbara |bibcode=2004MRGTE.560..173P |url-access=subscription }}
= SIK-inhibitors =
A novel class of compounds has been found to stimulate melanogenesis in a mechanism that is independent from α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) activation of the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1 receptor). This is accomplished via small molecule inhibition of salt-inducible kinases (SIK). Inhibition of SIK increases transcription of MITF which is known to increase melanin production. Work published in June 2017 has demonstrated compounds that have efficacy when applied topically to human skin.{{Cite journal |last1=Mujahid |first1=Nisma |last2=Liang |first2=Yanke |last3=Murakami|first3=Ryo|last4=Choi|first4=Hwan Geun|last5=Dobry|first5=Allison S.|last6=Wang|first6=Jinhua|last7=Suita|first7=Yusuke|last8=Weng|first8=Qing Yu|last9=Allouche|first9=Jennifer|date=13 June 2017|title=A UV-Independent Topical Small-Molecule Approach for Melanin Production in Human Skin|journal=Cell Reports|language=en|volume=19|issue=11|pages=2177–2184|doi=10.1016/j.celrep.2017.05.042|pmid=28614705|pmc=5549921|issn=2211-1247}} These compounds are still however in pre-clinical stages of development. Future directions may include the incorporation of SIK-inhibitor compounds with traditional UV-blocking sunscreens to minimize UV-related DNA damage in the short term while providing longer term protection through endogenous melanin production.
= Tyrosine-based products =
Tanning accelerators—lotions or pills{{Cite web|url=https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm134217.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090611074147/http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm134217.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=11 June 2009|title=US FDA/CFSAN - Tanning Pills|website=Food and Drug Administration}} that usually contain the amino acid tyrosine—claim that they stimulate and increase melanin formation, thereby accelerating the tanning process. These are used in conjunction with UV exposure. At this time, there is no scientific data available to support these claims.
=Melanotan peptide hormones=
The role of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) in promoting melanin diffusion has been known since the 1960s.{{cite journal|last1=Baker|first1=BI|title=The role of melanin-concentrating hormone in color change.|journal=Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences|date=31 May 1993|volume=680|issue=1|pages=279–89|pmid=8390154|doi=10.1111/j.1749-6632.1993.tb19690.x|bibcode=1993NYASA.680..279B|s2cid=11465789}} In the 1980s, scientists at University of Arizona began attempting to develop α-MSH and analogs as potential sunless tanning agents, and synthesized and tested several analogs, including afamelanotide, then called melanotan-I.
In the European Union and United States, afamelanotide is indicated for the prevention of phototoxicity in adults with erythropoietic protoporphyria.{{Cite web |last=Commissioner |first=Office of the |date=March 24, 2020 |title=FDA approves first treatment to increase pain-free light exposure in patients with a rare disorder |url=https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-approves-first-treatment-increase-pain-free-light-exposure-patients-rare-disorder |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191009121954/https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-approves-first-treatment-increase-pain-free-light-exposure-patients-rare-disorder |url-status=dead |archive-date=9 October 2019 |access-date=2024-04-24 |website=FDA |language=en}}{{cite web |date=27 January 2016 |title=Scenesse: Summary of Product Characteristics |url=http://www.ema.europa.eu/docs/en_GB/document_library/EPAR_-_Product_Information/human/002548/WC500182307.pdf |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170406201555/http://www.ema.europa.eu/docs/en_GB/document_library/EPAR_-_Product_Information/human/002548/WC500182307.pdf |archive-date=6 April 2017 |access-date=6 April 2017 |publisher=European Medicines Agency (EMA)}}{{cite web |date=17 September 2018 |title=Scenesse EPAR |url=https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/medicines/human/EPAR/scenesse |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191119035520/https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/medicines/human/EPAR/scenesse |archive-date=19 November 2019 |access-date=18 November 2019 |website=European Medicines Agency (EMA)}} Afamelanotide is also being investigated as a method of photoprotection from in the treatment of polymorphous light eruption, actinic keratosis and squamous cell carcinoma (a form of skin cancer).[http://www.clinuvel.com/en/faqs/ Clinuvel FAQs] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080411022315/http://www.clinuvel.com/en/faqs/|date=2008-04-11}} Bremelanotide is used for the treatment of generalized hypoactive sexual desire disorder (HSDD) in premenopausal women.{{cite press release |title=FDA approves new treatment for hypoactive sexual desire disorder in premenopausal women |website=U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) |date=21 June 2019 |url=https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-approves-new-treatment-hypoactive-sexual-desire-disorder-premenopausal-women |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191120183329/https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-approves-new-treatment-hypoactive-sexual-desire-disorder-premenopausal-women |archive-date=20 November 2019 |url-status=dead |access-date=24 October 2019}}{{PD-notice}}{{cite web |title=FDA Approves New Libido-Boosting Drug for Premenopausal Women |url=https://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/914779?nlid=130327_3901&src=wnl_newsalrt_190621_MSCPEDIT&uac=194606CT&impID=2003265&faf=1 |access-date=22 June 2019 |website=Medscape |publisher=WebMD LLC |vauthors=Frellick M}}
To pursue the tanning agent, melanotan-I was licensed by Competitive Technologies, a technology transfer company operating on behalf of University of Arizona, to an Australian startup called Epitan,{{cite news|title=EpiTan focuses on Melanotan, a potential blockbuster|url=https://www.thepharmaletter.com/article/epitan-focuses-on-melanotan-a-potential-blockbuster|work=The Pharma Letter|date=1 November 2004|language=en}}{{cite journal|last1=Hadley|first1=ME|last2=Dorr|first2=RT|title=Melanocortin peptide therapeutics: historical milestones, clinical studies and commercialization.|journal=Peptides|date=April 2006|volume=27|issue=4|pages=921–30|doi=10.1016/j.peptides.2005.01.029|pmid=16412534|s2cid=21025287}} which changed its name to Clinuvel in 2006.{{cite news|title=Epitan changes name to Clinuvel, announces new clinical program|url=http://www.labonline.com.au/content/life-scientist/news/epitan-changes-name-to-clinuvel-announces-new-clinical-program-161764385|work=LabOnline|date=27 February 2006|language=en}}
A number of products are sold online and in gyms and beauty salons as "melanotan" or "melanotan-1" which discuss afamelanotide in their marketing.{{Cite web|url=http://wcbstv.com/topstories/tanorexia.melanotan.self.2.1013828.html |publisher=WCBS-TV, CBS |date=20 May 2009 |access-date=23 July 2009 |title=Believe It Or Not 'Tanorexia' A Very Real Problem |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090521151930/http://wcbstv.com/topstories/tanorexia.melanotan.self.2.1013828.html |archive-date=21 May 2009 }}{{Cite web |url=http://www.cosmopolitan.com.au/fool_gold.htm|date=14 June 2009|title=Fools Gold|access-date=25 July 2009|publisher=Cosmopolitan (Australia)|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090912150202/http://cosmopolitan.com.au/fool_gold.htm|archive-date=12 September 2009|url-status=dead}}{{Cite news|url=https://www.wired.com/wiredscience/2009/01/tan/|title=Suntan Drug Greenlighted for Trials|access-date=11 April 2009|publisher=Wired|date=29 January 2009|first=Alexis|last=Madrigal|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090505032522/http://www.wired.com/wiredscience/2009/01/tan/|archive-date=5 May 2009|url-status=live}} The products are not legal in any jurisdiction and are dangerous.{{Cite web|url=http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/tanning-drug-a-health-risk/story-e6frf7jo-1225792923321|title=Tanning drug a health risk|access-date=31 October 2009|publisher=Herald Sun|date=31 October 2009}}{{cite journal |author1=Ewan A Langan |author2=Z. Nie |author3=Lesley E Rhodes |title=Melanotropic peptides: More than just 'Barbie drugs' and 'sun tan jabs?' |journal=British Journal of Dermatology |volume=163 |issue=3 |pages=451–5 |date=June 2010 |pmid=20545686 |doi=10.1111/j.1365-2133.2010.09891.x |s2cid=8203334 }}{{cite journal |author1=Ewan A Langan |author2=Denise Ramlogan |author3=Lynne A Jamieson |author4=Lesley E Rhodes |title=Change in moles linked to use of unlicensed "sun tan jab" |journal=BMJ |volume=338 |pages=b277 |date=January 2009 |doi=10.1136/bmj.b277 | pmid = 19174439 |s2cid=27838904 }}{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/7895366.stm|title=Risky tan jab warnings 'ignored'|access-date=4 March 2009|publisher=BBC|date=18 February 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090221213602/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/7895366.stm|archive-date=21 February 2009|url-status=live}} Starting in 2007 health agencies in various counties began issuing warnings against their use.{{Cite web|url=http://www.dkma.dk/1024/visUKLSArtikel.asp?artikelID=13865|title=Warning against the product Melanotan|access-date=11 August 2008|publisher=Danish Medicines Agency|year=2008}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.mhra.gov.uk/NewsCentre/Pressreleases/CON031009|title="Tan jab" is an unlicensed medicine and may not be safe|access-date=17 November 2008|publisher=MHRA|year=2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081218195906/http://www.mhra.gov.uk/NewsCentre/Pressreleases/CON031009|archive-date=18 December 2008|url-status=dead}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.fda.gov/ICECI/EnforcementActions/WarningLetters/ucm152426.htm|title= US Lab Research Inc Warning letter|access-date=23 July 2009|publisher=U.S. Food and Drug Administration|date=29 January 2009| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20090710061631/https://www.fda.gov/ICECI/EnforcementActions/WarningLetters/ucm152426.htm| archive-date= 10 July 2009 | url-status= dead}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.imb.ie/EN/Safety--Quality/Advisory-Warning--Recall-Notices/Human-Medicines/Melanotan-Powder-for-Injection-.aspx|title=Melanotan Powder for Injection|access-date=2 February 2009|publisher=Irish Medicines Board|year=2009|work=Notice Information: – Warning – 27 February 2009}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.slk.no/templates/InterPage____65110.aspx|title=Legemiddelverket advarer mot bruk av Melanotan|access-date=11 March 2009|publisher=Norwegian Medicines Agency|date=13 December 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090417045006/http://www.slk.no/templates/InterPage____65110.aspx|archive-date=17 April 2009|url-status=dead}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.slk.no/templates/InterPage____80434.aspx|title=Melanotan – farlig og ulovlig brunfarge|access-date=11 March 2009|publisher=Norwegian Medicines Agency|date=23 January 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090417045159/http://www.slk.no/templates/InterPage____80434.aspx|archive-date=17 April 2009|url-status=dead}}
=Other melanogenesis stimulants=
{{Main|Melanocyte#Stimulation}}
Eicosanoids, retinoids, oestrogens, melanocyte-stimulating hormone, endothelins, psoralens, hydantoin, forskolin, cholera toxin, isobutylmethylxanthine, diacylglycerol analogues, and UV irradiation all trigger melanogenesis and, in turn, pigmentation.
Temporary bronzers (skin colorants)
{{unreferenced section|date=February 2019}}
{{Anchor|Bronzer|Bronzers|Temporary bronzers|Skin colorants}}
Bronzers{{Cite web|date=March 15, 2022 |title=Sunless Tanners & Bronzers |url=https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/sunless-tanners-bronzers |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190905014209/https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/sunless-tanners-bronzers |url-status=dead |archive-date=5 September 2019 |website=FDA |language=en}} are a temporary sunless tanning or bronzing option. These come in powders, sprays, mousse, gels, lotions and moisturizers. Once applied, they create a tan that can easily be removed with soap and water. Like make-up, these products tint or stain a person's skin only until they are washed off.
They are often used for "one-day" only tans, or to complement a DHA-based sunless tan. Many formulations are available, and some have limited sweat or light water resistance. Walnut oil extract, jojoba extract, and caramel are ingredients frequently used in temporary bronzers.{{Cite journal |last1=Garone |first1=Michael |last2=Howard |first2=John |last3=Fabrikant |first3=Jordan |date=February 2015 |title=A Review of Common Tanning Methods |journal=The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology |language=en |volume=8 |issue=2 |pages=43–47 |pmid=25741402 |pmc=4345932 }} If bronzer is applied under clothing, or where fabric and skin edges meet, most will create some light but visible rub-off. Dark clothing prevents the rub-off from being noticeable. While these products are much safer than tanning beds, the color produced can sometimes look orangey and splotchy if applied incorrectly.
A recent trend is that of lotions or moisturizers containing a gradual tanning agent. A slight increase in color is usually observable after the first use, but color will continue to darken the more frequently the product is used.
Just as with the term "sunless tanner", the term "bronzer" is likewise not defined by law, or by regulations enforced by the FDA. What is defined and regulated is the color additive DHA, or dihydroxyacetone.{{Cite web|url=https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/sunless-tanners-bronzers|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190905014209/https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/sunless-tanners-bronzers|url-status=dead|archive-date=5 September 2019|title=Sunless Tanners & Bronzers|date=11 September 2020|website=FDA}} (Note that the "color additive" dihydroxyacetone is itself colorless.){{Cite web|url=https://www.medicinenet.com/dha-spray_and_sunless_tanning_booths/views.htm|title=DHA-Spray and Sunless Tanning Booths|website=MedicineNet}}
Many of these bronzers contain allergens such as benzyl alcohol, tocopherol (vitamin E), and fragrances.{{Cite journal |last1=Newton |first1=Jazmin |last2=Ogunremi |first2=Oluwafunke |last3=Paulsen |first3=Riley T. |last4=Lien |first4=Molly |last5=Sievers |first5=Meaghan |last6=Greenway Bietz |first6=Mandi |date=March 2024 |title=A cross-sectional review of contact allergens in popular self-tanning products |journal=International Journal of Women's Dermatology |language=en-US |volume=10 |issue=1 |pages=e134 |doi=10.1097/JW9.0000000000000134 |pmid=38332994 |pmc=10852387 |issn=2352-6475}} While these bronzers are a safer alternative to tanning beds, consumers should be aware that allergic reactions on the skin may occur.
Air brush tanning is a spray on tan performed by a professional. An air brush tan can last five to ten days and will fade when the skin is washed. It is used for special occasions or to get a quick dark tan. At-home airbrush tanning kits and aerosol mists are also available.
=Risks=
Tanners usually contain a sunscreen. However, when avobenzone is irradiated with UVA light, it generates a triplet excited state in the keto form which can either cause the avobenzone to degrade or transfer energy to biological targets and cause deleterious effects.{{cite journal
|title=A Blocked Diketo Form of Avobenzone: Photostability, Photosensitizing Properties and Triplet Quenching by a Triazine-derived UVB-filter
|date=January–February 2009
|vauthors=Paris C, Lhiaubet-Vallet V, Jimenez O, Trullas C, Miranda M |journal= Photochemistry and Photobiology| volume=85 | pages=178–184
|pmid=18673327
|issue=1
|doi=10.1111/j.1751-1097.2008.00414.x|doi-access=free
}}
It has been shown to degrade significantly in light, resulting in less protection over time.{{cite journal
| title=Photostabilization of Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter
|date=September 2001| pmid=11594052
|author1=Chatelain E |author2=Gabard B. | journal= Photochemistry and Photobiology| volume=74 | pages=401–6
| doi=10.1562/0031-8655(2001)074<0401:POBMAA>2.0.CO;2
| issue=3
|doi-broken-date=30 March 2025 |s2cid=29879472 |issn=0031-8655}}File:Free text.png {{cite journal|date=October 1999|title=Changes in ultraviolet absorption of sunscreens after ultraviolet irradiation|journal=J Invest Dermatol|volume=113|issue=4|pages=547–53|doi=10.1046/j.1523-1747.1999.00721.x|pmid=10504439|vauthors=Tarras-Wahlberg N, Stenhagen G, Larko O, Rosen A, Wennberg AM, Wennerstrom O|doi-access=free}}{{cite journal
| title=A new long-chain UV absorber derived from 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane: absorbance stability under solar irradiation
|date=Mar–Apr 2005| pmid=15870853
|vauthors=Wetz F, Routaboul C, Denis A, Rico-Lattes I | journal= Journal of Cosmetic Science| volume=56 | pages=135–48
| issue=2
| doi=10.1562/2004-03-09-ra-106
|doi-broken-date=30 March 2025 }} The UV-A light in a day of sunlight in a temperate climate is sufficient to break down most of the compound. It's important to continue wearing SPF while self-tanning, as self-tanner is generally a fake and temporary tan, and your skin is still sensitive to the sun.{{Cite journal |last1=Young |first1=A.R. |last2=Narbutt |first2=J. |last3=Harrison |first3=G.I. |last4=Lawrence |first4=K.P. |last5=Bell |first5=M. |last6=O'Connor |first6=C. |last7=Olsen |first7=P. |last8=Grys |first8=K. |last9=Baczynska |first9=K.A. |last10=Rogowski-Tylman |first10=M. |last11=Wulf |first11=H.C. |last12=Lesiak |first12=A. |last13=Philipsen |first13=P.A. |date=2019-05-24 |title=Optimal sunscreen use, during a sun holiday with a very high ultraviolet index, allows vitamin D synthesis without sunburn |journal=British Journal of Dermatology |language=en |volume=181 |issue=5 |pages=1052–1062 |doi=10.1111/bjd.17888 |pmid=31069787 |issn=0007-0963 |pmc=6899952 }}
If avobenzone-containing sunscreen is applied on top of tanner, the photosensitizer effect magnifies the free-radical damage promoted by DHA, as DHA may make the skin especially susceptible to free-radical damage from sunlight, according to a 2007 study led by Katinka Jung of the Gematria Test Lab in Berlin. Forty minutes after the researchers treated skin samples with 20% DHA they found that more than 180 percent additional free radicals formed during sun exposure compared with untreated skin.
A toxicologist and lung specialist at the University of Pennsylvania's Perelman School of Medicine (Dr. Rey Panettieri) has commented, "The reason I'm concerned is the deposition of the tanning agents into the lungs could really facilitate or aid systemic absorption -- that is, getting into the bloodstream. These compounds in some cells could actually promote the development of cancers or malignancies, and if that's the case then we need to be wary of them."{{cite web | last1=Greenblatt | first1=Mark | last2=Ahuja | first2=Gitika | title=Are 'Spray-On' Tans Safe? Experts Raise Questions as Industry Puts Out Warnings | website=ABC News | date=13 June 2012 | url=https://abcnews.go.com/Health/safety-popular-spray-tans-question-protected/story?id=16542918 | access-date=4 June 2018}} A study by scientists from the Department of Dermatology, Bispebjerg Hospital, published in Mutation Research has concluded DHA 'induces DNA damage, cell-cycle block and apoptosis' in cultured cells.
Many self tanners use chemical fragrances which may cause skin allergies or may trigger asthma. Furthermore, some of them contain parabens. Parabens are preservatives that can affect the endocrine system.{{cite journal| title=Significance of the detection of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens) in human breast tumours|doi=10.1002/jat.957|pmid=14745840|volume=24|issue=1|journal=Journal of Applied Toxicology|pages=1–4|year = 2004|last1 = Harvey|first1 = Philip W.|last2=Everett|first2=David J.|s2cid=29852495}}{{Cite journal |last1=Azeredo |first1=Damáris Barcelos Cunha |last2=de Sousa Anselmo |first2=Denilson |last3=Soares |first3=Paula |last4=Graceli |first4=Jones Bernardes |last5=Magliano |first5=D’Angelo Carlo |last6=Miranda-Alves |first6=Leandro |date=2023-10-17 |title=Environmental Endocrinology: Parabens Hazardous Effects on Hypothalamic–Pituitary–Thyroid Axis |journal=International Journal of Molecular Sciences |language=en |volume=24 |issue=20 |pages=15246 |doi=10.3390/ijms242015246 |doi-access=free |issn=1422-0067 |pmc=10607526 |pmid=37894927}}
See also
Notes
{{Notelist}}
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
{{Commons category|Indoor tanning lotion}}
- [https://web.archive.org/web/20090611073852/http://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditiveInventories/ucm115641.htm#table1A FDA listing of approved colorants]
- [https://web.archive.org/web/20080819180622/http://www.aad.org/public/Publications/pamphlets/Sunscreens.htm American Academy of Dermatology on Self Tanners]
{{Cosmetics}}